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Enclosed Trailer


Slabo
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I am looking to buy a 20' enclosed car trailer with 5200 lb alxes. I have been looking at Craigs list for a while and the dealers seem to have the best deals right now. I just got a quote on a new 2009 Interstate trailer for $6420 + tax. Here's the link http://www.trailersplus.com/TrailerLocator...ype=ICC10220TA3 Its looking good to me but thought I would get some feedback before driving over to pick it up.

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I would get a 24ft trailer just for hauling all the xtra stuff you end up taking along.

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I am looking to buy a 20' enclosed car trailer with 5200 lb alxes. I have been looking at Craigs list for a while and the dealers seem to have the best deals right now. I just got a quote on a new 2009 Interstate trailer for $6420 + tax. Here's the link http://www.trailersplus.com/TrailerLocator...ype=ICC10220TA3 Its looking good to me but thought I would get some feedback before driving over to pick it up.

Slabo, here's my two cents; the price is right as long as they don't bait and switch on you, double check the serial number (last 5 of the VIN) and stock number when you go to buy the trailer, also make sure the total price includes freight, doc fee and prep.

 

You may want to consider a 22' or 24' instead, 20' is the minimum for our cars, because you will need to have some room in front of the car for you to be able to manuver and get the car tied down properly, much less if you were to want to haul any other gear with the car.

 

Also one other thing, make sure the trailer comes with 225-75 R15 LRD tires (did not see that on the spec list)! Do not buy a trailer with the smaller 205-75 D15 tires, and it is my advise to pay extra for a set of Goodyear Marathon ST tires (the Chinese off brand tires being supplied to the trailer manufacturers are bad news).

 

Hope this helps, Good Luck!

Mark

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I would get a 24ft trailer just for hauling all the xtra stuff you end up taking along.

 

I agree. A 20' does not allow you any space inside to haul any additional stuff without it being extremely tight and potentially hitting the car.

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Slabo, here's my two cents; the price is right as long as they don't bait and switch on you, double check the serial number (last 5 of the VIN) and stock number when you go to buy the trailer, also make sure the total price includes freight, doc fee and prep.

 

You may want to consider a 22' or 24' instead, 20' is the minimum for our cars, because you will need to have some room in front of the car for you to be able to manuver and get the car tied down properly, much less if you were to want to haul any other gear with the car.

 

Also one other thing, make sure the trailer comes with 225-75 R15 LRD tires (did not see that on the spec list)! Do not buy a trailer with the smaller 205-75 D15 tires, and it is my advise to pay extra for a set of Goodyear Marathon ST tires (the Chinese off brand tires being supplied to the trailer manufacturers are bad news).

 

Hope this helps, Good Luck!

Mark

 

Ok, this is all great advise. I hear ya on the 24'. I just called them and I can get the exact same trailer in 24' for another $391. And I asked and they do have 225-75 R15's D rated tires on the trailer. here is the link http://www.trailersplus.com/TrailerLocator...ype=ICC10224TA3

 

Thanks for the input everyone.

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Ok, this is all great advise. I hear ya on the 24'. I just called them and I can get the exact same trailer in 24' for another $391. And I asked and they do have 225-75 R15's D rated tires on the trailer. here is the link http://www.trailersplus.com/TrailerLocator...ype=ICC10224TA3

 

Thanks for the input everyone.

 

 

 

 

 

Wow........just 400.00 for the 24ft!!! I'd go for that in a minute..... you wont't be sorry

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I bought a 24' with a full interior earlier this year for 7400.00, so the price sounds fair. You should definately get a 24' at least. The only thing I wish mine had is recessed e-track in the floor. If you can, see if you can upgrade to some e-track in the floor. I hear it is so much easier to strap down with the track over just "D" rings in the floor.

 

Chris

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I bought a 24' with a full interior earlier this year for 7400.00, so the price sounds fair. You should definately get a 24' at least. The only thing I wish mine had is recessed e-track in the floor. If you can, see if you can upgrade to some e-track in the floor. I hear it is so much easier to strap down with the track over just "D" rings in the floor.

 

Chris

 

I was talking with MY500SS about his trailer and he has the e-trac and said it is very nice. He has strapes that go over the wheels to hold the car. Sounds like a nice way to go. I will look into it but I am about at my budget limit with a 24'. I assume this is something that can be added later? Is it something I could install myself?

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I was talking with MY500SS about his trailer and he has the e-trac and said it is very nice. He has strapes that go over the wheels to hold the car. Sounds like a nice way to go. I will look into it but I am about at my budget limit with a 24'. I assume this is something that can be added later? Is it something I could install myself?

Absolutely! We install a lot of E-track as an aftermarket item and is easy to install (surface mount makes it easy to clean out when needed as opposed to flush mount). E-track is the preferred method of tie down for all of our professional haulers. You can purchase everything directly from www.macscustomtiedowns.com its all high quality product and great customer service. Mark

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Absolutely! We install a lot of E-track as an aftermarket item and is easy to install (surface mount makes it easy to clean out when needed as opposed to flush mount). E-track is the preferred method of tie down for all of our professional haulers. You can purchase everything directly from www.macscustomtiedowns.com its all high quality product and great customer service. Mark

 

 

You may look at http://www.racingjunk.com/category/13/Towing_Trailers.html

They have good deal at times.

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Here it is. Picked it up yesterday. I got my first experience in the wind. No problems had to drive a little slower but it towed great.

 

DSC_0335.jpg

 

I am thinking I will add a couple e-track pieces and tie down the wheels with wheel nets. What do you think?

 

27_252_large.jpg

 

E-Idler_300.jpg

 

214_181_large.jpg

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Very nice! I would also very highly recomend that you get a weight distribution hitch with the added sway control. Even towing with a heavy truck like you have, the weight distribution and sway control will make towing much more controllable and comfortable. With the sway control, you would not have even noticed the wind. You will be glad that you went with the extra length! Good job. Is that 24', almost looks like 26'.

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Congratulations. You did the right thing with the 24 foot. I installed my own ez track tie downs and actually put three levels on the side walls to keep everything cinched down. +1 on the equalizing hitch. Anti sway bar will add a lot with a light set up. 250 or above and you won't notice to much improvement.

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WooHoo Bob happy%20feet.gif, that's a nice set up you got there. The e-track is a good idea, makes strapping down much easier.

 

Some of the wheel nets can mark/scuff the chrome finish on the wheels. I use the same e-track hardware and just run the tie down strap over the top of the tire. Works great for me.

 

Congrats man.

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Very nice! I would also very highly recomend that you get a weight distribution hitch with the added sway control. Even towing with a heavy truck like you have, the weight distribution and sway control will make towing much more controllable and comfortable. With the sway control, you would not have even noticed the wind. You will be glad that you went with the extra length! Good job. Is that 24', almost looks like 26'.

 

Congratulations. You did the right thing with the 24 foot. I installed my own ez track tie downs and actually put three levels on the side walls to keep everything cinched down. +1 on the equalizing hitch. Anti sway bar will add a lot with a light set up. 250 or above and you won't notice to much improvement.

 

Thanks for the info and heads up on the weight distribution hitch. After I read this, I went out and checked the hitch and it will only handle 5000 lbs and 500 lbs tongue weigh without a weight distribution hitch. With a WDH it can handle 12,500 lbs and 1250 TW. So that is reguired. I will look at adding the sway control as well. Yup its a 24'.

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WooHoo Bob happy%20feet.gif, that's a nice set up you got there. The e-track is a good idea, makes strapping down much easier.

 

Some of the wheel nets can mark/scuff the chrome finish on the wheels. I use the same e-track hardware and just run the tie down strap over the top of the tire. Works great for me.

 

Congrats man.

 

Hey thanks Dan. I was thinking I would need to ask you how you straped down your tires. I found these as well do you use anything to keep the strapes from moving on the tires?

 

301_649_large.jpg

 

 

Congrats on your trailer! Remember our 40th's sit low, you will need to watch the ramp angle and may have to adjust the flap on the ramp. Should be no more than 11 degrees. Good luck and enjoy.

 

Thanks gt67, I was thinking of using a trailer ramp like this one. Its designed to have the door rest on the ramp so it gives you the angle you need to get into the trailer. I use one to get my car onto my 4 post lift and it works great. Looking at the 8 deg version.

 

trailer-ramps-race-red-corvette-vintage-formula-one-red-hot-rod.jpg

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Ok, I have another question. I see that the floor is 3/4" ply. What is the proper way to bolt down the short piece of e-track so that my car stays put? Do I have to tie it to one of the cross members or just back plate it?

 

Thx,

 

-- Bob

 

27_252_large.jpg

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WooHoo Bob happy%20feet.gif, that's a nice set up you got there. The e-track is a good idea, makes strapping down much easier.

 

Some of the wheel nets can mark/scuff the chrome finish on the wheels. I use the same e-track hardware and just run the tie down strap over the top of the tire. Works great for me.

 

Congrats man.

+1 on the single strap. You can purchase a nice little molded rubber piece that slides over the strap that has a couple of tabs molded on to it that slips into the groove of the tire. once installed the rubber piece prevents the strap from moving side to side on the tire.

 

Also, if you ever think that you will haul any other vehicle besides the Shelby, you may want to consider E-track the full length of the trailer floor. That way you can position any vehicle in the correct location for proper weight distribution.

 

Mark

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+1 on the single strap. You can purchase a nice little molded rubber piece that slides over the strap that has a couple of tabs molded on to it that slips into the groove of the tire. once installed the rubber piece prevents the strap from moving side to side on the tire.

 

Also, if you ever think that you will haul any other vehicle besides the Shelby, you may want to consider E-track the full length of the trailer floor. That way you can position any vehicle in the correct location for proper weight distribution.

 

Mark

 

Hey Mark thanks. Ok for the e-track the full length wouldn't the tire be resting on the skinny track above the floor? I suppose you could create a platform around where the tire rests to fix this or install it recessed. What does it take to install it recessed? or is there some other way to keep the tire from only resting on the skinny track?

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Ok, I have another question. I see that the floor is 3/4" ply. What is the proper way to bolt down the short piece of e-track so that my car stays put? Do I have to tie it to one of the cross members or just back plate it?

 

Thx,

 

-- Bob

 

27_252_large.jpg

Bob,

 

Yes, absolutely, it must be attached to a cross member. Thats another reason that I recomend that you go with full length E-track, that way you are distributing the pull force among several floor crossmembers.

 

Good luck! Mark

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Hey Mark thanks. Ok for the e-track the full length wouldn't the tire be resting on the skinny track above the floor? I suppose you could create a platform around where the tire rests to fix this or install it recessed. What does it take to install it recessed? or is there some other way to keep the tire from only resting on the skinny track?

Whoops, too quick on the replies! Here's the answer on this one, no worries as far as the surface mount and tire issues. I have alot of customers with this setup and no troubles. The car won't go anywhere.

 

Recessed E-track added after the trailer is built is a major ordeal, cut out the floor, install a sheet metal exterior weather barrier, weld in the E-track, seal the edges of the flooring, etc.

 

Mark

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Hey thanks Dan. I was thinking I would need to ask you how you straped down your tires. I found these as well do you use anything to keep the strapes from moving on the tires?

 

301_649_large.jpg

 

 

 

 

Thanks gt67, I was thinking of using a trailer ramp like this one. Its designed to have the door rest on the ramp so it gives you the angle you need to get into the trailer. I use one to get my car onto my 4 post lift and it works great. Looking at the 8 deg version.

 

trailer-ramps-race-red-corvette-vintage-formula-one-red-hot-rod.jpg

 

 

 

[/Those race ramps are the best on the market. There will be times when you will really appreciate them. I had some close calls driving the car in and out, so I put a winch in and have never had a problem.

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