iceman Posted April 10, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2007 By the way, iceman, I got your pic attached for all to see. You might want to add this to your personal profile! would have been a good one when suffering from PSDS for sure! Maybe I'll make it an avatar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iceman Posted April 11, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2007 For my next trick.... First round of nice big boxes (and one little box) arrived today I'm going to have to load into the crappy jeep and take stuff to the shop this time. I can't fit this round of mods into the car. Still waiting on more goodies to arrive and am hoping it all makes it here for a Monday install of everything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Oval Posted April 12, 2007 Report Share Posted April 12, 2007 Love the tint. Your letters look waaaaaaay better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iceman Posted April 12, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2007 Love the tint. Your letters look waaaaaaay better. Yes - thanks, I had to straighten them from before anyway because I put them on in the winter with no room in the garage and the result was a shame. Then I started seeing how everyone's looked wider and decided I needed to put some time and thought into it so I did it again out in the driveway on a nice day. I made sure to get it all level and same sistance from the edge of the trunk and between letters and tried to line up everything right. I'm much happier with it now and the look of the wider spacing is what I like. The guy that did my tint was amazing. I've tried to do that before and it was a disaster. This guy does the ford dealer's jobs and owns a company here in Indy called Pro-Tint. He came over and did it in my garage and it was amazing to watch. Even with the right tools I could never do that the way he did. There is no lip on the windows not covered so it looks factory even if the windows are part way down. It doesn't look like a film which is nice. The rear window took him the most time because the cuts had to be so perfect but he did a wonderful job. I'll hopefully have some good under the car shots going up with the gears going in Monday and be able to show some of the new suspension stuff as well as perhaps a video next week. We'll see how Monday goes....I'm trying to skip out on work to get some good stuff done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
69deluxe Posted April 14, 2007 Report Share Posted April 14, 2007 The guy that did my tint was amazing. I've tried to do that before and it was a disaster. This guy does the ford dealer's jobs and owns a company here in Indy called Pro-Tint. He came over and did it in my garage and it was amazing to watch. Even with the right tools I could never do that the way he did. There is no lip on the windows not covered so it looks factory even if the windows are part way down. It doesn't look like a film which is nice. The rear window took him the most time because the cuts had to be so perfect but he did a wonderful job. Thanks for this reference! Just had Dave from Pro-Tint come by to do my car. Your right, he does an amazing job in less than an hour in the garage. Hoping to get mine out tomorrow when the weather improves to get some shots in natural light. I only went with the 35% (legal limit), but it still looks great. What was the website that you mentioned sold the felt strips for the window channel? He suggested I get that to prevent some potential scratches. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iceman Posted April 15, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2007 Thanks for this reference! Just had Dave from Pro-Tint come by to do my car. Your right, he does an amazing job in less than an hour in the garage. Hoping to get mine out tomorrow when the weather improves to get some shots in natural light. I only went with the 35% (legal limit), but it still looks great. What was the website that you mentioned sold the felt strips for the window channel? He suggested I get that to prevent some potential scratches. www.tintprotector.com good stuff! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iceman Posted April 17, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2007 If anyone other than me keeps up with this threat I started today working on putting in American Racing Headers. I'm really glad this one is at the shop with people that know what they are doing. It's big process and even after moving out the K member there are some tight spots to reach. We finally got the headers on today and the 3" exhaust should get finished up on Tues. Also dropped in the 373's today so if i can remember to take a camera for once I'll have a Dyno video at some point. Stage 4 should be functional on Tues. 4-17 Here's a few pics of the process so far - edit - my pics are from a phone so sorry - I forgot the camera twice today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68fastback Posted April 17, 2007 Report Share Posted April 17, 2007 If anyone other than me keeps up with this threat I started today working on putting in American Racing Headers. I'm really glad this one is at the shop with people that know what they are doing. It's big process and even after moving out the K member there are some tight spots to reach. We finally got the headers on today and the 3" exhaust should get finished up on Tues. Also dropped in the 373's today so if i can remember to take a camera for once I'll have a Dyno video at some point. Stage 4 should be functional on Tues. 4-17 Here's a few pics of the process so far - edit - my pics are from a phone so sorry - I forgot the camera twice today. Nice work Chris!!! Yeah, that looks like a serious project... how did you guys hold the engine up with the K-member and mounts out? Just a jack-stand? Can't wait for the stag-IV dyno vid ;-) Can you spell a-w-e-s-o-m-e?!! Ant thanks for all the updates along the way -- good stuff! Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iceman Posted April 17, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2007 Nice work Chris!!! Yeah, that looks like a serious project... how did you guys hold the engine up with the K-member and mounts out? Just a jack-stand? Can't wait for the stag-IV dyno vid ;-) Can you spell a-w-e-s-o-m-e?!! Ant thanks for all the updates along the way -- good stuff! Dan The guys at the shop have a cool little thing that goes across the top of the engine bay and sits on the rails and then chains go around a couple of bolts they pulled out of the block and a strap around the bottom and back up to this hanger. This way they can riase and lower the engine a little and also move the car up and down on the lift with no issues. It's a pretty sinple tool but a very cool one if you are going to do this. They did a GT Friday for headers and said they didn't have to remove the K-member for space on it but they do all the time because it makes it so much easier. On the Shelby it would be impossible to do with out doing that i think.....maybe a really skinny long person could do it but it would be a real mess. The damn dipstick tube is a pain to move around too. We pulled it out and had a hell of a time getting it back in the first time. The 2nd time we knew what tools to use to force it in where we wanted it but there are a few tricks you won't learn until you live this one. So far only one call to evolution for help and they were right on it for us. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68fastback Posted April 17, 2007 Report Share Posted April 17, 2007 The guys at the shop have a cool little thing that goes across the top of the engine bay and sits on the rails and then chains go around a couple of bolts they pulled out of the block and a strap around the bottom and back up to this hanger. This way they can riase and lower the engine a little and also move the car up and down on the lift with no issues. It's a pretty sinple tool but a very cool one if you are going to do this. They did a GT Friday for headers and said they didn't have to remove the K-member for space on it but they do all the time because it makes it so much easier. On the Shelby it would be impossible to do with out doing that i think.....maybe a really skinny long person could do it but it would be a real mess. The damn dipstick tube is a pain to move around too. We pulled it out and had a hell of a time getting it back in the first time. The 2nd time we knew what tools to use to force it in where we wanted it but there are a few tricks you won't learn until you live this one. So far only one call to evolution for help and they were right on it for us. As always, great info, Chris... thanks A trolley-hoist (I think that's what they call them) -- great idea!!!! I see your sig is updated too good luck tomorrow! Btw, you're right -- those m-mounts are gorgeous ...they'll also improve handling on uneven surfaces (oddly) buy forcing the motor to stay synch'd with the chassis ...when they were initially developing the boyracer the road-simulator said the mounts had to go right away ..you could easily see the motor 'bobbing' independently of the chassis/suspension (and that was with the alloy 5.0!)... stiffer mounts ...good stuff! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eci Posted April 21, 2007 Report Share Posted April 21, 2007 Are you adding a tubular K-member at the same time? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iceman Posted April 23, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2007 Are you adding a tubular K-member at the same time? I didn't - I thought about it but decided this was enough for the time being. Gotta leave something for me to want to do later After seeing the stock version it too could be upgraded and weight reduced a lot by doing so though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iceman Posted September 30, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2007 I have not added in here for a while - I discoverd today that the strut brace does in fact work with the KB usine the spacers from JLT so I put on 2 spacers on each side just to have a little extra room but it actually cleared with just one spacer. The hood shuts with no issue at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iceman Posted September 30, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2007 another pic - top up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68fastback Posted October 1, 2007 Report Share Posted October 1, 2007 Chris, she's looking flat awesome!!!! ...CCW/19/35s with Eiback-pro really fit nice!! :happy feet: :bandance: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iceman Posted October 1, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2007 Chris, she's looking flat awesome!!!! ...CCW/19/35s with Eiback-pro really fit nice!! :happy feet: :bandance: Thanks - I'm really happy with it right now. I want a few things still for he track but over all I am really pleased. I am looking at in no particular order: 27 - 28" tall slicks instead of my 26" ET Streets Nitrous set up - looking into options bu not too worried about power right now KB Stage 3 when Evo says OK - but again not needed Roll bar - likely not NHRA cert. as I think a 4 pt. is all I'll do but I think I have enough power it makes sense to have that now I want a DVD/Nav unit and am looking at optins there still toying with slotted rotors but for me this is way down the list potentially HID lights but I don't like them with out the same for fog lights I want my 10 sec. slip! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe G Posted October 1, 2007 Report Share Posted October 1, 2007 It's a little funny to see the evolution (or was it Evolution... ) of your car! From just a VMP tune (not even a CAI) and exhaust, to a soon to be 10 sec beast in what, 10 months?? :happy feet: Very cool Iceman. I know Fishers well - as I've said before, we used to live there from 95-99. We'll have to hook up next time I'm in Indy visiting my sister and her family. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68fastback Posted October 1, 2007 Report Share Posted October 1, 2007 I want my 10 sec. slip! Nice list! 10s? ...Evo stage-6? Chris, I just poked stangmods and I see the now carry bi-xenons for the GT500. I know firsthand that on the SN95 Cobras their bi-xenon HID low beams have a funky pattern with hotspots and poor control but the hi-beams are quite good (bi-xenons are servo-controlled single-envelope lamps). I've read that on the S197s the pattern is much better, so these may be a real nice product (on sale right now too). I don't see fogs listed for the GT500, but typically they carry Xenon HID fogs for all cars they carry bi-xenon HIDs headlamps for that also have fogs ...so might be worth a call to ask. All their lights are available in vsarious color temps so no problem matching headlams and fogs for a factory look. 4300*K is visually closest to pure white and renders colors most accurately. Btw, Patrick at Evo installs HIDs (he's amazing!) if you're out that way again ;-). If you call stangmods, ask them if these HIDs require the under-hood fuse-box jumper wire (like on the SN95 Cobras) for proper hi-lo operation... if so, make sure they send you the install sheet for that -- they seem to forget a lot. Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iceman Posted October 1, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2007 Nice list! 10s? ...Evo stage-6? Chris, I just poked stangmods and I see the now carry bi-xenons for the GT500. I know firsthand that on the SN95 Cobras their bi-xenon HID low beams have a funky pattern with hotspots and poor control but the hi-beams are quite good (bi-xenons are servo-controlled single-envelope lamps). I've read that on the S197s the pattern is much better, so these may be a real nice product (on sale right now too). I don't see fogs listed for the GT500, but typically they carry Xenon HID fogs for all cars they carry bi-xenon HIDs headlamps for that also have fogs ...so might be worth a call to ask. All their lights are available in vsarious color temps so no problem matching headlams and fogs for a factory look. 4300*K is visually closest to pure white and renders colors most accurately. Btw, Patrick at Evo installs HIDs (he's amazing!) if you're out that way again ;-). If you call stangmods, ask them if these HIDs require the under-hood fuse-box jumper wire (like on the SN95 Cobras) for proper hi-lo operation... if so, make sure they send you the install sheet for that -- they seem to forget a lot. Dan I have no Evo stage designation anymore since I went from the stage 4 to the current set up. I have much of the stage 6 (same tune, blower set up etc) but I don't have the rims and a few of the other things they put in to make the car a true stage 6. I am the bastard step child of evolution Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68fastback Posted October 2, 2007 Report Share Posted October 2, 2007 I have no Evo stage designation anymore since I went from the stage 4 to the current set up. I have much of the stage 6 (same tune, blower set up etc) but I don't have the rims and a few of the other things they put in to make the car a true stage 6. I am the bastard step child of evolution ..that's called exclusivity! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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