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Burr

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OK, now with close to 500 rear wheel supercharge horsepower what have you guys find works best to stop wheelspin and fishtailing when on the gas from a takeoff???

turning the ignition off! :hysterical: I have to "roll" into it and still get tire spin. I am changing the stock tires now to see how that helps. Many suggest LCA to help plant, but short of LCA's and slicks I think you are going to have wheel spin, just need to learn how to roll into it and be ready to feather the gas.....Craig

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turning the ignition off! :hysterical: I have to "roll" into it and still get tire spin. I am changing the stock tires now to see how that helps. Many suggest LCA to help plant, but short of LCA's and slicks I think you are going to have wheel spin, just need to learn how to roll into it and be ready to feather the gas.....Craig

 

:hysterical::hysterical::hysterical::lurk:

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There is no magic to this one. It is all in how you apply the power. I can break loose as much as I choose to. I can also launch without so much as a chirp if I choose to. You just have to know your car in terms of how much power is too much power (unless you are in the mood to smoke the tires). It not about having different control arms, a Watts Link or wider tires. It is about balancing the application of power so it is just under what will break the adhesion of the tire with the pavment.

 

Jim

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Wider and stickier tires will work.

 

I went with the wider GT500 Wheels and Goodyear Eagle F1 Supercar tires front and rear on my stock SGT and I can still smoke the rear Eagles without any problem if I want to....As Jim said, you're better off just learning how to ease into the throttle so that you don't break traction...You can spend a fortune on control arms and such and it will only break something else...drive shaft, axle, transmission, etc...Take some time to learn how much it takes to break the car loose...You can still beat someone else and not smoke the tires every time you take off with just a little practice...AND still have money in your pocket too!

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I went with the wider GT500 Wheels and Goodyear Eagle F1 Supercar tires front and rear on my stock SGT and I can still smoke the rear Eagles without any problem if I want to....As Jim said, you're better off just learning how to ease into the throttle so that you don't break traction...You can spend a fortune on control arms and such and it will only break something else...drive shaft, axle, transmission, etc...Take some time to learn how much it takes to break the car loose...You can still beat someone else and not smoke the tires every time you take off with just a little practice...AND still have money in your pocket too!

Well stated summary of a whole lot of things that go into the traction issue.

 

Jim

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I am going to sound like and old f**t on this one (which is only fair seeing as how I am one :hysterical: ) but there is a simple truth about horse power and getting it to the ground. I learned it in the 60's and we were not dealing with anything like the horsepower you guys are putting out.

 

The magic word is "break." When your tires break loose, you burn up some rubber and have to replace your tires faster that you otherwise would. When your goal is for the tires not to break loose but still to be able to go full throttle, the word "break" is simply going to go somewhere else in your car and make itself known, usually with a bang. Look at my mods and you will see a front drive shaft safety loop. I do not even drag race my car and I have one. Why? See above. The fact of the matter is these cars were built with certain tolerances for stress and when a part exceeds its limit, it breaks.

 

Don't get me wrong, I enjoyed the 60's greatly in my personal pursuit to go fast and then faster in a straight line. In the process, I broke everything (well, I never broke a crank) there was to break on a drive train. It did make me a pretty good mechanic. ;)

 

I enjoy reading about you straight line guys. There is something about a drag race (on a track of course) that just gets the heart pumping. You can't fake anything when the race is over in a flash. On a road course, you can have a poor lap and make up for it with the next one. Nothing so forgiving in the 1/4 mile.

 

Jim

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Griggs GR40ST or GR40TT rear kit

 

http://www.grigg ing.com/index.php?cPat..._4309_4320_3685

 

 

Even thou I'm no were near 500hp on the SGT I've got the suspension for it-

+1000

 

I'm also over 500 RWHP, but I've had the Griggs setup since long before. Even at 300 RWHP, this car was in desperate need of the upgraded handling ability, especially on the track.

Tires are step 1. Step 2 = Griggs rear suspension, no question.

 

Ken

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After changing my upper and lower control arms and installing a Watts Link my car is pretty planted. I can do first gear rollons now and generally stay hooked up. When I first installed my blower a first gear rollon would result in lighting the tires grab second light the tires grab third light the tires then start to grab traction. Its been said alot here but I'm really impressed with the Watts Link it seems to work far better then I ever would have guessed.

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I put Eagle F1 285s on the rear stock wheels. Helps a bunch!

 

+1 on these tires helping!!

 

After installing my e-force with the stock tires, the car broke loose at will and felt very unstable. But with the F1s (along with LCAs & brackets), it pulls suprisingly well off the line and even though the tires break loose, the cars stays straight and in control.

 

I do need to upgrade my shocks/struts next (Koni Yellows) along with getting a Fays2 down the road as well to finish things off.

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OK, now with close to 500 rear wheel supercharge horsepower what have you guys find works best to stop wheelspin and fishtailing when on the gas from a takeoff???

 

You always pick up a fat chick and put her in the trunk with me, I sure you won't have any more problems except for the smell :hysterical::drool:

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