ARMORINE Posted August 30, 2009 Report Share Posted August 30, 2009 topic says it all. im looking to go with an aluminum drive shaft. what have we used on the sgt's? i have 3 inch pipes under my car so im looking for something that wont interfere with them(i think i can get away with a 4 inch shaft) im almost done to a shoe string budget so i can't spend a grand just to buy a drive shaft. i can install everything myself. so list em if you got em! what company's have you used and what are their prices?(dont forget a website) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstroDan Posted August 30, 2009 Report Share Posted August 30, 2009 topic says it all. im looking to go with an aluminum drive shaft. what have we used on the sgt's? i have 3 inch pipes under my car so im looking for something that wont interfere with them(i think i can get away with a 4 inch shaft) im almost done to a shoe string budget so i can't spend a grand just to buy a drive shaft. i can install everything myself. so list em if you got em! what company's have you used and what are their prices?(dont forget a website) I bought from Lightining Force Performance, but the shaft is actually a Coast DS. 4" (see sig) (I could not add hyperlink... Hmmm) I paid @ $625 delivered to my door. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ARMORINE Posted August 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2009 I bought from Lightining Force Performance, but the shaft is actually a Coast DS. 4" (see sig)(I could not add hyperlink... Hmmm) I paid @ $625 delivered to my door. thats not too bad, i'll have to look into them. has any one heard anything about denny's driveshafts? http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/c3_aluminu...riveshafts.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
William Rodgers Posted August 30, 2009 Report Share Posted August 30, 2009 I went with what Dennis from Tasca suggested, in my Sig, Dynotech I googled all the big names and this is the only one I could not find one negative comment about. By the way, no regrets, apparently it added about 10 RWHP as well, great stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CudaFly Posted August 30, 2009 Report Share Posted August 30, 2009 DynoTech 3.5" is a direct bolt-on with no adapters required. http://www.brenspeed.com/dshaft05gt.html http://www.dynotecheng.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FordFan1 Posted August 30, 2009 Report Share Posted August 30, 2009 I've installed Leonards Spydershaft on both the SGT and Roush- Great product, I highly recommend it http://www.leonardracingproducts.com/drive01.php Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrewnagle1964 Posted August 31, 2009 Report Share Posted August 31, 2009 I've installed Leonards Spydershaft .......... Great product, I highly recommend it +1 Andrew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kvin C Posted August 31, 2009 Report Share Posted August 31, 2009 DynoTech 3.5" is a direct bolt-on with no adapters required. http://www.brenspeed.com/dshaft05gt.html http://www.dynotecheng.com/ I too am interested in this mod somewhere down the road. But this where that proverbial road takes a fork for me! Some folks say that the aluminum driveshaft is a plug-and-play, bolt-on mod, while others are adamant that adjustable upper control arms are integral to the swap. Most of this is Greek to me, but from I can glean, some of the confusion may lie in the fact that the SGT is lowered substantially from the standard GT sit. Ergo, what may work on a GT will not on an SGT? Does someone speak Greek and mebbe 'splain to this geek? What's needed beyond the DS and when? Kevin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
William Rodgers Posted August 31, 2009 Report Share Posted August 31, 2009 I had mine done at Tasca, but can tell you I was charged $0 on labor, that tells me it is basically a plug and play. Although I did get a ton of other things done, Dennis and Tasca are the Best!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickey d Posted August 31, 2009 Report Share Posted August 31, 2009 thats not too bad, i'll have to look into them. has any one heard anything about denny's driveshafts? http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/c3_aluminu...riveshafts.html I have a few buddies that have used Denny's for thier Corvettes and Fbodys, they are very happy Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stormeaston Posted August 31, 2009 Report Share Posted August 31, 2009 Here's what you need..... Coast aluminum drive shaft. Steeda non-adjustable 3rd link. On lowerd cars to get the right pinion angle you have to install a different 3rd link. The Steeda non-adjustable 3rd link is perfect for this. Just change that and the shaft and your all set to go! I took it a step further and installed Steeda chrome-moly controll arms, Steeda adjustable panhard bar and the brace, and a K-member brace. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shelbytexan Posted August 31, 2009 Report Share Posted August 31, 2009 I bought my 4'' d.s. from the axle exchange. I paid 699.95 for the d.s. They are rated at 750+ H.P. i also installed an adjustible upper control arm from steeda on account of the car being 1 and a half in. lower than stock g.t. This is important so that your pinion angle will be correct and not have any vibration and wear out your u-joints prematurely. I have driven mine over 100mph with the new set-up and the car is very smooth. I have no clearance issures either. There is a lot of so called name brands out there so read all the advertisements and pick what you feel comfortable with. The web site for mine was theaxleexchange.com. You will need an adjustible upper control arm on account of the correct degree for the shaft. I don't remember the degree but i think it was a minus 4 but not sure. The axle exchange told me what it needed to be set at. Good-Luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kahmann Posted August 31, 2009 Report Share Posted August 31, 2009 Drive Line Services of Sacramento http://www.drive-lines.com/ That's who built my custom aluminum DS for my 66. I'm still running the stock 2 piece in my SGT and don't intend on changing it. Anyway, DLS of Sac might save you some dough. My 3.5" custom Al piece was only $300 and it's top notch quality. Good luck. Ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilmor Posted August 31, 2009 Report Share Posted August 31, 2009 Does anyone know what our pinion angle should be and exactly how it is measured? This is one area of expertise that I don't understand.... Then again, it sounds like the special Steeda upper control arm is already configured for lower cars so if that's the case that would seem to be the easiest solution! Steeda part no. is 555-4096 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueshawk Posted August 31, 2009 Report Share Posted August 31, 2009 Does anyone know what our pinion angle should be and exactly how it is measured? This is one area of expertise that I don't understand.... Then again, it sounds like the special Steeda upper control arm is already configured for lower cars so if that's the case that would seem to be the easiest solution! Steeda part no. is 555-4096 I like the non-adjustable part of this. If it can be adjusted, then it can get loose on you and you have to keep checking it. Jam nuts just don't stay tight in my experience. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stormeaston Posted August 31, 2009 Report Share Posted August 31, 2009 Does anyone know what our pinion angle should be and exactly how it is measured? This is one area of expertise that I don't understand.... Then again, it sounds like the special Steeda upper control arm is already configured for lower cars so if that's the case that would seem to be the easiest solution! Steeda part no. is 555-4096 Bingo!!!!!!!! To answer your first question, the proper angle is -1.5 this I believe is what the Steeda 3rd link is set up at. If you install the Steeda 3rd link you don't have to worry about the angle it will be pre-set for you. I've heard of guys going -2 to -3, I don't know if their cars were lowerd or not. You can find the angle by using a 360 degree gravity angle finder at Home Depot for around $10. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT500-07 Posted August 31, 2009 Report Share Posted August 31, 2009 +1 Andrew +2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kvin C Posted September 1, 2009 Report Share Posted September 1, 2009 Bingo!!!!!!!! To answer your first question, the proper angle is -1.5 this I believe is what the Steeda 3rd link is set up at. If you install the Steeda 3rd link you don't have to worry about the angle it will be pre-set for you. I've heard of guys going -2 to -3, I don't know if their cars were lowerd or not. You can find the angle by using a 360 degree gravity angle finder at Home Depot for around $10. Thanks to all for the aluminum driveshaft input. The Steeda Third Link for lowered cars does sound like a good deal. I was just browsing their site in regard to the driveshaft itself, wondering if it wouldn't be a good idea to get all the stuff from them as a package. They sell a tapered 3.5"-4" aluminum shaft. Does anyone know who makes that shaft for Steeda and any thoughts on a tapered construction? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstroDan Posted September 1, 2009 Report Share Posted September 1, 2009 To answer your first question, the proper angle is -1.5 this I believe is what the Steeda 3rd link is set up at. If you install the Steeda 3rd link you don't have to worry about the angle it will be pre-set for you. I've heard of guys going -2 to -3, I don't know if their cars were lowerd or not. You can find the angle by using a 360 degree gravity angle finder at Home Depot for around $10. I went with LFP adjustable UCA. I was my understanding that as HP was added, the angle may need to be re-set. I'm also set at -1.5* from when it was a stock SGT. Whatever gains I may have gotten from the DS, it was a wash with the heavier wheels/tires. I dynoed "after" and showed virtually the same RWHP/TQ. Now I wonder if I should reset due to the SC... Dan Edit for pics... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RACERX009 Posted September 1, 2009 Report Share Posted September 1, 2009 I too am interested in this mod somewhere down the road. But this where that proverbial road takes a fork for me! Some folks say that the aluminum driveshaft is a plug-and-play, bolt-on mod, while others are adamant that adjustable upper control arms are integral to the swap. Most of this is Greek to me, but from I can glean, some of the confusion may lie in the fact that the SGT is lowered substantially from the standard GT sit. Ergo, what may work on a GT will not on an SGT? Does someone speak Greek and mebbe 'splain to this geek? What's needed beyond the DS and when? Kevin You lost me at hello!!!! Something about a plunger as a back scratcher????? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greaser Posted September 1, 2009 Report Share Posted September 1, 2009 what one does shelby use i see its an option for the sr. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ARMORINE Posted September 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2009 what one does shelby use i see its an option for the sr. i would like to know that myself! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RogerS Posted September 3, 2009 Report Share Posted September 3, 2009 dynotec Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greaser Posted September 4, 2009 Report Share Posted September 4, 2009 dynotec Roger thanks roger well there you go folks if it will handle the SR it should be fine for us. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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