paxton novi install

[rush_junky]

If you ever plan on tracking your SGT, the intercooler is a must. Mine is running hotter than hell in this 105+ heat.

If not, then it's up to you. But I'd invest in a Livewire or something similar that you can monitor your intake air temp, coolant temp, oil temp, etc with very closely on those hot Texas days. Next up, I'd open up your hood or invest in a heat extracting hood. In the end, I think the intercooler will be the easier means to the end goal.

 

How's the install coming?

 

Ken

Getting there, slowly but surely...I still need to buy a plug for that hole you mentioned.

 

Got the elbow for the t-stat in just like you suggested !!

 

Question: In section 10, step F ? .....install the 1/8" NPT plug provided in the previously installed cross-over tube...............

 

Also, step C has got to be wrong !!!! wrong hose identified....

 

Will wrap-up next weekend; ordered a custom tune and sct x3 from VMP.

 

Latest pic...

 

[kahmann]

Hi there Ken!

That's amazing what you've got done.

I got one question , and i'm almost shore that i've mentioned this on the installation process, and i did read "almost" everything.

Before the installation didn't you have the frpp hot rod cams installed or am i mistaken????

reason i'm asking is because i'm planing on havin these cams installed,so i ask JDM if i have these cams installed now they would be ok if i decided to install a sc latter, and they told me that these cams would be to aggressive and could hurt power on a blower because of the heat they generate.

thank's for any info on these,

Thanks man. I've got a set of Comp stage 2 cams actually. These cams are a whole ton more aggressive than the FRPP Hot Rod cams and they seem to love the boost. The cams I went with are the dirtiest, heaviest loping, NA grind cams that I could find, by the way. Somehow, the combo of those cams and the small Paxton put me over 500 RWHP (plus a few other mods). I say go for the cams. You won't regret it no matter which direction you end up going with your build.

 

Getting there, slowly but surely...I still need to buy a plug for that hole you mentioned.

 

Got the elbow for the t-stat in just like you suggested !!

 

Question: In section 10, step F ? .....install the 1/8" NPT plug provided in the previously installed cross-over tube...............

 

Also, step C has got to be wrong !!!! wrong hose identified....

 

Will wrap-up next weekend; ordered a custom tune and sct x3 from VMP.

 

Latest pic...

OK I've got nothing for you on 10F. I have no clue what they're talking about and must have just passed on that one. All I can tell you is fill the coolant system, check for leaks, make sure the plug is back in on the bottom of the passenger side of the radiator, and you should be plenty good to go.

 

Step C should be tagged as 2005-2006 Mustangs only, as that large hose actually does go from the t-stat housing to the bottom of the coolant reservoir in those model years only.

On a related note, once you actually do fire the engine back up, don't run it very long the first couple times, only because you'll have to re-fill the power steering and coolant reservoirs a couple of times, before all of the air is worked out of those systems.

Your progress is looking great Ed! Nice work all the way around. That's a mighty clean looking engine bay by the way. I'm not sure how you managed that, but mine was covered in crap from top to bottom by the end of the install!

 

Ken

[HARALD KELLEY]

Yes sir, that's why I was set on the satin unit from the get go. Whether it actually holds any less heat, I couldn't tell you, but that was my original thinking. After seeing how hot this thing runs now, I can't imagine the finish would make that big of a difference in that regard. However, the satin ended up matching my accessories a lot better than the polished kit would have, so I'm glad I went with this one.

 

This kit can be intercooled, yes. The charge cooler kit is around $1600 and I'm definitely planning on adding that asap.

 

Ken

 

Thanks guys for answering my question.

[kahmann]

Thanks guys for answering my question.

No sweat.

 

The retro Shelby/Paxton engine bay tag showed up this weekend, so I applied it to the driver's shock tower tonight.

I'd feel kinda like a poser, except that it's obviously a classic take-off (as opposed to some sort of replica of the modern 'factory supercharged' plaque). I've never been a fan of clones of any sort, so I'm not about to try to pass my car off as an official Shelby GT/SC or anything.

Anyway, I think it looks pretty sweet and is a nice compliment to my install. As an added bonus, I was able to cover up the unsightly spot of missing paint, which was caused by the original FRPP cold air intake rubbing against it for 20k+ miles.

 

Ken

 

[rush_junky]

Anyway, I think it looks pretty sweet and is a nice compliment to my install. As an added bonus, I was able to cover up the unsightly spot of missing paint....

 

SAAWWEEEETTT !!!

[rush_junky]

Well...I was nearing the end of my installation working on the fuel pump mod. Turns out, two teflon sleeves that slide over each pump discharge were not included in the kit. These increase the diameter of the discharge so 3/8" teflon hoses that came with the kit can be connected. ARGGG !!! I called Paxton and they said they could get them to me on Wednesday. My tuner and tune are arriving tomorrow and I have a dyno setup for Monday. The local CarQuest Auto Parts store did not have any of those small teflon sleeves. When I was about to leave the auto parts store, the battery was dead so I couldn't make it to the Ford place before it closed. Again....

 

QUESTION: Would it be OK to use 3/8" rubber fuel hoses instead?? The kit is already using a short rubber fuel to tee to the two pumps. See picture below; I really don't want to wait till next weekend to complete this project.

 

 

The latest pics under the hood:

 

[rush_junky]

:

QUESTION: Would it be OK to use 3/8" rubber fuel hoses instead?? The kit is already using a short rubber fuel to tee to the two pumps. See picture below; I really don't want to wait till next weekend to complete this project.

 

Well, I went ahead and used Fuel Injector rated rubber hoses. It made the fit much tighter but was finally able to install the fuel pump assembly. While working on the fuel pump, UPS delivered the tuner and custom tune.

 

I buttoned everything up, loaded the custom tune, and then, the moment of truth...... NOGO!!

 

The engine cranks but won't start:

 

I get the following DTC code when only turning the key to ON.

 

P2101 Throttle Actuator Control Motor Circuit Range/Performance

 

I get the following DTC code after I attempt to start the engine.

 

P2107 Throttle Actuator Control Module Processor

 

I checked to make sure I was getting fuel and there was plenty of fuel pressure on the line coming from the fuel pump assembly. I double, triple, quadruple checked the connections under the hood. Maybe I got a bum tune not accounting for the motion plate delete ?? What next ? Any advice is appreciated !

 

UPDATE 1: Hmmm? On the receipt to my tune, "Turn rear o2 sensors off" was listed in addition to my other mods. What is this for? Coud this be the problem? I heard from someone that this should make no difference.

 

UPDATE 2: I disconnected the harness to the motion plate actuator; the car still won't start.

 

UPDATE 3: I checked a bunch of fuses; all good.

[1218shelby]

you might wanna check this. After the install on my Novi, the first time we tried to turn it on it didnt work. We were all sad. We check in the trunk to see if all the connections were good and i guess one of the small connections came disconnected when the lid in the trunk were the "spare" tire is supposed to be. Check that. After we connected that, the car came to life..

[rush_junky]

you might wanna check this. After the install on my Novi, the first time we tried to turn it on it didnt work. We were all sad. We check in the trunk to see if all the connections were good and i guess one of the small connections came disconnected when the lid in the trunk were the "spare" tire is supposed to be. Check that. After we connected that, the car came to life..

Thanks, I'll go check..... :dog:

[kahmann]

The rubber hose will be fine in place of the teflon. You should have no issue there.

As for the codes, it sounds to me like an issue with the throttle body. I had to remove my TB just to get the new radiator hose + chrome 90 installed.

Did you pull your TB? If so, are you certain nothing was damaged? You didn't remove the gear housing from the side correct? Is the harness plugged in correctly to the side of the TB? Definitely put a call in to BBR about the failed tune. The motion delete plates wouldn't cause it not to start, even if the tune doesn't account for the plates being installed. I'd spend my time at the throttle body first, then start chasing out everything else. Good luck Ed.

 

Ken

 

p.s. Do you have a fuel pressure gauge installed anywhere?

[rush_junky]

you might wanna check this. After the install on my Novi, the first time we tried to turn it on it didnt work. We were all sad. We check in the trunk to see if all the connections were good and i guess one of the small connections came disconnected when the lid in the trunk were the "spare" tire is supposed to be. Check that. After we connected that, the car came to life..

Thanks, I'll go check..... :dog:

 

I saw the connector in the spare tire well; I removed and reconnected it. The car still won't start. The connector in the spare tire well seems to be connected to some kind of actuator. Does anyone know what it's for? Just curious....

 

Thank you anyways 1218 !

[rush_junky]

The rubber hose will be fine in place of the teflon. You should have no issue there.

As for the codes, it sounds to me like an issue with the throttle body. I had to remove my TB just to get the new radiator hose + chrome 90 installed.

Did you pull your TB? If so, are you certain nothing was damaged? You didn't remove the gear housing from the side correct? Is the harness plugged in correctly to the side of the TB? Definitely put a call in to BBR about the failed tune. The motion delete plates wouldn't cause it not to start, even if the tune doesn't account for the plates being installed. I'd spend my time at the throttle body first, then start chasing out everything else. Good luck Ed.

 

Ken

 

p.s. Do you have a fuel pressure gauge installed anywhere?

Hi Ken ! Sure glad you're back !

 

When I removed the TB, I didn't have any issues that would have caused any damage. I did not remove the gear housing. All connections are seated all the way. I removed them and reconnected them several times. Is there a fuse or relay that directly impacts the TB? I couldn't find one in the manual.

 

Should I reconnect the cable going to the motion plate actuator? The tune is supposed to account for the motion plate deletion.

 

I don't have a fuel pressure gauge installed; guess it's time to put one in. Can I get a good one at a local parts store? I can hear the 2nd pump when I turn the key. Lot's of gas gushed out when I disconnected the line below the rear seat so at least there is some pressure.

[kahmann]

I saw the connector in the spare tire well; I removed and reconnected it. The car still won't start. The connector in the spare tire well seems to be connected to some kind of actuator. Does anyone know what it's for? Just curious....

 

Thank you anyways 1218 !

That's the driver for your fuel pump..

[kahmann]

Hi Ken ! Sure glad you're back !

 

When I removed the TB, I didn't have any issues that would have caused any damage. I did not remove the gear housing. All connections are seated all the way. I removed them and reconnected them several times. Is there a fuse or relay that directly impacts the TB? I couldn't find one in the manual.

 

Should I reconnect the cable going to the motion plate actuator? The tune is supposed to account for the motion plate deletion.

 

I don't have a fuel pressure gauge installed; guess it's time to put one in. Can I get a good one at a local parts store? I can hear the 2nd pump when I turn the key. Lot's of gas gushed out when I disconnected the line below the rear seat so at least there is some pressure.

The harness going to the TB is in good shape I assume. You may want to chase that harness out, just to be sure.

I'm sure there's a fuse in the box somewhere for the TB. Did you have your battery disconnected during the entire install? If not, perhaps you blew a fuse or two.

Definitely re-connect the harness for the motion plate actuator. Your PCM still needs to send a signal to it, as if those butterfly valves still exist. Disconnected, the PCM will toss a code for sure.

You can find a fuel gauge anywhere. But you'll need a fuel block adapter with an additional port for the gauge to plug into. UPR sells the block/gauge kit for pretty cheap. It installs right on top of your driver's side rail. I'll dig around online for a bit, trying to find any info on the codes you're getting. Have you gotten any other code since those?

 

Ken

[kahmann]

Yikes. "Replace PCM" is awfully quick on this troubleshooting guide for that code! http://foxed.ca/rx7manual/2003mazdarx8/esi...0202100W03.html

 

Have you cleared the codes successfully yet with your programmer?

If not, clear them, triple check the harnesses, then try to start it again.

 

 

Here's the factory diagnosis instruction:

"DV1 CHECK FOR THROTTLE PLATE OBSTRUCTION OR ETB MALFUNCTION

 

Note: Repair any Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) DTCs, ABS related DTCs in other modules or vehicle communication concerns before starting this pinpoint.

* Note: The following steps should be taken in order due to the nature of the Electronic Throttle Control system: 1.)These DTCs effect system operation and must be repaired first: P0102, P0103, P0320, P0715, P0720, P0500, P0122, P0123, P0222, P0223, P2135, Go To Section 4. 2.)These DTCs must be repaired next due to the nature of the system: P2121, P2122, P2123, P2126, P2127, P2128, P2131, P2132, P2133, Go To DK2. 3.) If DTCs are present: P2111 or P2112, Go To DV1. 4.) DTC U0300, Go To Section 4, page 16 for direction. 5.) For DTCs P2100, P2101, or P2107 Go To DV1.

* It should also be noted, that a KOER P0121 DTC can be set by the operator resting a foot on the accelerator pedal during the test.

* Key Off.

* Visually inspect the throttle plate for binding or sticking.

* Remove air inlet from the throttle body.

* Slowly push the throttle plate open and release, then push closed completely.

 

Does the throttle plate move freely in both directions?

Yes No

GO to DV2 unless P2106 is present, then see Note 17 In Section 4, return to DV2 if fault is not repaired. If DTC P2107 is present GO to DV23 , If DTC P2100 is present GO to DV22 , and for P2101, GO to DV25 . REPAIR or REPLACE throttle body as required.

DV2 CHECK TP1 and TP2 CLOSED AND OPEN VOLTAGE RANGES

 

* Key On Engine Off

* Access TP 1 and TP 2 PIDS.

* Depress accelerator pedal slowly to the floor and release.

 

Are the TP sensor signals within the following chart ranges?

 

ETC TP sensor voltage ranges (closed to open throttle)

Accelerator Pedal position TP1 TP2

CT 3.7-4.7 .3-1.9

WOT .7-1.6 4.1-4.7

 

 

# Unplugged motor, circuits shorted to power

# TACM motor open, unplugged motor, circuits shorted to power

# TACM motor stuck open or closed

# PCM damaged

# MAF fault

# TPS fault

# OSS fault

# TSS fault

# ABS module fault"

[kahmann]

Here's an interesting point from a Mazda forum, regarding the same codes. http://www.rx8web.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2064

 

"Some vehicles may experience MIL illumination with DTC P2107, P2108 or P2109 stored in memory after jump

starting the engine due to a discharged (dead) battery."

 

Hopefully this is the reason for the codes.

 

Ken

[rush_junky]

The harness going to the TB is in good shape I assume. You may want to chase that harness out, just to be sure.

I'm sure there's a fuse in the box somewhere for the TB. Did you have your battery disconnected during the entire install? If not, perhaps you blew a fuse or two.

Definitely re-connect the harness for the motion plate actuator. Your PCM still needs to send a signal to it, as if those butterfly valves still exist. Disconnected, the PCM will toss a code for sure.

You can find a fuel gauge anywhere. But you'll need a fuel block adapter with an additional port for the gauge to plug into. UPR sells the block/gauge kit for pretty cheap. It installs right on top of your driver's side rail. I'll dig around online for a bit, trying to find any info on the codes you're getting. Have you gotten any other code since those?

 

Ken

Oh yes, the battery was disconnected for the entire installation.

 

Keep getting the exact same codes and they clear until the key is turned back on, 2101......2107 when the starter is cranked.

[rush_junky]

The throttle plates only open when pushing on the lower side not when pushing on the upper side.

 

UPDATE..... no wait, they only open when pushing on the UPPER SIDE....

[kahmann]

The throttle plates only open when pushing on the lower side not when pushing on the upper side.

That's normal. They should only open in one direction. Man I'm stumped. It seems like a computer problem to me, not a hardware issue.

I'll keep digging around.

 

Ken

[rush_junky]

I tried a few things:

 

Turning the key on only.............

Having only the driver's side TB connector removed results in this code: 2107

Having only the passenger's side TB connector removed results in zero codes reported.

Having both removed results in these codes: P0123, P0223

Having only the MAF sensor connector on the air filter tube removed results in zero codes reported.

Having only the IAT relocated sensor removed results in both these codes: 2101, 2107

Having both the MAF and IAT sensores removed resuts in only 2101.

 

[1218shelby]

So did you get it started yet? i wanna see you post about youre excitement when you turn it on. I know the feeling when it first comes on. :happy feet:

[rush_junky]

So did you get it started yet? i wanna see you post about youre excitement when you turn it on. I know the feeling when it first comes on. :happy feet:

This is the latest status:

[rush_junky]

I'm wondering if I should undo the IAT relocation sensor and rewire the MAF to it's original configuration....

[CudaFly]

The tune would be my #1 suspect. If you haven't done so already I'd call BBR and see what they think.

 

Did the kit come with a DiabloSport Predator hand-held programmer and a tune? If so you may want to see if the car throws codes or starts with the tune supplied from Paxton. If it does start just turn it off, don't let it run. That will at least isolate the problem (or not).

 

Good luck... hang in there.

[kahmann]

The tune would be my #1 suspect. If you haven't done so already I'd call BBR and see what they think.

 

Did the kit come with a DiabloSport Predator hand-held programmer and a tune? If so you may want to see if the car throws codes or starts with the tune supplied from Paxton. If it does start just turn it off, don't let it run. That will at least isolate the problem (or not).

 

Good luck... hang in there.

I agree. I think it's the tune. Good call with the Paxton tune. See if it'll at least start with that.

Aside from that, are you positive that you pulled the correct wires from the MAF harness for the relocated IAT sensor? May be something to double check.

 

Ken

[rush_junky]

I agree. I think it's the tune. Good call with the Paxton tune. See if it'll at least start with that.

Aside from that, are you positive that you pulled the correct wires from the MAF harness for the relocated IAT sensor? May be something to double check.

 

Ken

I rewired the MAF like it was originally. The two codes 2101, 2107 appeared... Turned the key to crank the engine and heard several horrible clanks....the codes do clear. NOW I'M REALLY WORRIED...

 

I'll call BBR first thing Monday morning. I'll try the Paxton / Diablo tune as well. Should I leave the MAF as originally wired since that's what Paxton would expect?

 

Thanks for your help guys...

[rush_junky]

I just put the stock tune back in; no code with key turned. With the custom tune, code 2101 appeared with the key turned.

 

I'll try the Paxton tune next.....

[rush_junky]

I just put the stock tune back in; no code with key turned. With the custom tune, code 2101 appeared with the key turned.

 

I'll try the Paxton tune next.....

OK, It STARTED with the Paxton tune although it appeared that the tune was for the intercooled Novi. :happy feet:

 

Now I just have to make sure the PS fluid and Coolant gets filled.

 

The little whirl sounded great

 

So I wonder what's up with the BBR tune??

 

I probably shouldn't drive it with the Paxton tune since I have the motion plates mod installed? Right??

[rush_junky]

OK, It STARTED with the Paxton tune although it appeared that the tune was for the intercooled Novi. :happy feet:

 

Now I just have to make sure the PS fluid and Coolant gets filled.

 

The little whirl sounded great

 

So I wonder what's up with the BBR tune??

 

I probably shouldn't drive it with the Paxton tune since I have the motion plates mod installed? Right??

Got the following codes which makes sense at this point since the Paxton tune does not account for the motion plates mod.

 

P2015 Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor/Switch Circuit Range/Performance

P2020 Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor/Switch Circuit Range/Performance

[1218shelby]

yeah, you should get a tune for everything you have installed. motion delete plate, and any other goodies you have. Did you video tape your first start up? i love that whistle sound.. :brrr:.. makes me shiver when ever i hear it..