MattR Posted August 7, 2010 Report Share Posted August 7, 2010 I have had it happen a couple of times when the traction control was on. And one time when I hit the rev limit. It seems you really need to focus on the shift. I have 1000 miles on mine and the only way I can hit second gear at anything over 4k is to stand on the clutch wait a second and then yank it in hard. If I try to shift the car how I have shifted the last 6 manual tranny cars I have owned it just grinds. Im calling my dealer on monday. It sucks to be embarrased to give anyone a ride in your new pride and joy for fear your tranny is going to grind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldSchool Posted August 7, 2010 Report Share Posted August 7, 2010 I have 1000 miles on mine and the only way I can hit second gear at anything over 4k is to stand on the clutch wait a second and then yank it in hard. If I try to shift the car how I have shifted the last 6 manual tranny cars I have owned it just grinds. Im calling my dealer on monday. It sucks to be embarrased to give anyone a ride in your new pride and joy for fear your tranny is going to grind. Let us know what you find out. Hopefully some good news. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ezareth Posted August 7, 2010 Report Share Posted August 7, 2010 It seems you really need to focus on the shift. Exactly. It's happened to me twice now, once when pulling out of Summit Racing, and another time Racing a bike from a light. Both times I KNOW I wasn't focusing on the shift and was more focused on not trying to burn out while launching hard. A few times that I've tested it making sure I'm pulling it to my hip and not letting off the clutch too early and while a hard shift, I get no grinding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattR Posted August 7, 2010 Report Share Posted August 7, 2010 Exactly. It's happened to me twice now, once when pulling out of Summit Racing, and another time Racing a bike from a light. Both times I KNOW I wasn't focusing on the shift and was more focused on not trying to burn out while launching hard. A few times that I've tested it making sure I'm pulling it to my hip and not letting off the clutch too early and while a hard shift, I get no grinding. I bet you still need to yank the hell out of it for it to go in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cdvision Posted August 7, 2010 Report Share Posted August 7, 2010 I get an occasional grind into second but I chalk it up to not being focused 100% on the shift. For the first time I ran my car to hard to 6100 rpm up through the gears and into 4th gear up to 130mph with no grind in second. I have 950 miles on my car. It sure pulls hard and got a nice chirp from the rear tires when I pulled 4th gear. My female companion compared it to a ride at an amusement park. lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
horseback72 Posted August 8, 2010 Report Share Posted August 8, 2010 I just rolled 3 thousand miles, mine has ground since new, and also I have experienced the car not going into second under high r's. Yesterday it ground real bad with the clutch fully down even at low r's. Now it wont go in without any grind unless you are at like 1500 rpms anything higher huge grind. to the dealer monday. Screwjob. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JWG223 Posted August 8, 2010 Report Share Posted August 8, 2010 2011 Corvettes are being delivered now. This means that the parts to fix Ford's transmission physically exist. I bet in a month or two we see people getting their syncro's replaced with the CF ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackyl13 Posted August 8, 2010 Report Share Posted August 8, 2010 Everyone please let us know what your dealer says. I'm not having any luck in South FL ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
horseback72 Posted August 8, 2010 Report Share Posted August 8, 2010 I saw a post somewhere where a guy said that ford voided his transmission warrenty for having a pulley. How can they do this, the transmissions clearly have a problem with or without extra hp. Can anybody shed some light on this. Should I remove my pulley, tune, and xpipe before i take it to the dealer. I know it would probably cost a couple hundred to remove everything and get it reinstalled after getting the transmission fixed, but if they want to get picky and not warrenty it a couple of hundred bucks is chump change. If you know your dealer really well, wouldnt they be willing to fix it without disclosing to ford that you had aftermarket parts on the vehicle? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackyl13 Posted August 8, 2010 Report Share Posted August 8, 2010 Some dealers can be dick heads ! If I was that person , I would print the forum comments and bring it to Ford ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bpmurr Posted August 8, 2010 Report Share Posted August 8, 2010 I saw a post somewhere where a guy said that ford voided his transmission warrenty for having a pulley. How can they do this, the transmissions clearly have a problem with or without extra hp. Can anybody shed some light on this. Should I remove my pulley, tube, and xpipe before i take it to the dealer. I know it would probably cost a couple hundred to remove everything and get it reinstalled after getting the transmission fixed, but if they want to get picky and not warrenty it a couple of hundred bucks is chump change. If you know your dealer really well, wouldnt they be willing to fix it without disclosing to ford that you had aftermarket parts on the vehicle? That person was me. The problem with mine is the clutch. Which is considered a wear item like a brake pad or set of tires. This part technically isn't under any kind of implied warranty. However, they normally will cover it under 12k. In my case SVT requested pictures of my car. They saw the Metco pulley and idler and said screw you. It all depends on how your dealer handles this. You might be able to skate by with the mods on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JWG223 Posted August 8, 2010 Report Share Posted August 8, 2010 That person was me. The problem with mine is the clutch. Which is considered a wear item like a brake pad or set of tires. This part technically isn't under any kind of implied warranty. However, they normally will cover it under 12k. In my case SVT requested pictures of my car. They saw the Metco pulley and idler and said screw you. It all depends on how your dealer handles this. You might be able to skate by with the mods on. More and more posts like this on Ford and GM boards have convinced me that you need to buy a car that doesn't need mods to perform how you want it to. -or- Fully understand that if you do ANYTHING to the vehicle, it is on YOU to fix it if anything goes wrong. Right or wrong, that is what I am seeing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
horseback72 Posted August 8, 2010 Report Share Posted August 8, 2010 That person was me. The problem with mine is the clutch. Which is considered a wear item like a brake pad or set of tires. This part technically isn't under any kind of implied warranty. However, they normally will cover it under 12k. In my case SVT requested pictures of my car. They saw the Metco pulley and idler and said screw you. It all depends on how your dealer handles this. You might be able to skate by with the mods on. Thanks for the input, there is definitely something wrong with 2nd, I took it for another ride today and confirmed the grinding and resistance is inevitable at anything over an idle or about 1500 rpms. Does anyone know exactly could have happened to it. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JWG223 Posted August 9, 2010 Report Share Posted August 9, 2010 Thanks for the input, there is definitely something wrong with 2nd, I took it for another ride today and confirmed the grinding and resistance is inevitable at anything over an idle or about 1500 rpms. Does anyone know exactly could have happened to it. Thanks The 6060 has 10% wider gears than the T56. This means that the syncros are narrower. This means that the heavier rotating mass coupled with the narrower syncros causes more strain (and if you shift fast, an inability) on the syncros when applying friction to match gear speeds for a clean shift. Do this enough times, and the syncro dies. This is why the 2011 Corvette got new carbon cone syncros. It remains to be seen if they work as advertised. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bpmurr Posted August 9, 2010 Report Share Posted August 9, 2010 More and more posts like this on Ford and GM boards have convinced me that you need to buy a car that doesn't need mods to perform how you want it to. -or- Fully understand that if you do ANYTHING to the vehicle, it is on YOU to fix it if anything goes wrong. Right or wrong, that is what I am seeing. The problem is there is a clear disregard for the Magnuson Moss Warranty Act. A manufacturer can't deny a warranty just because you have a mod. They have to prove it caused the problem. I'm still waiting for a technical explanation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JWG223 Posted August 9, 2010 Report Share Posted August 9, 2010 The problem is there is a clear disregard for the Magnuson Moss Warranty Act. A manufacturer can't deny a warranty just because you have a mod. They have to prove it caused the problem. I'm still waiting for a technical explanation. Just because you might get them to repair it in the end doesn't mean you are having fun in the mean-time. Further, I am sure there is fine-print that might cause you worry and let them slip out perhapse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ezareth Posted August 9, 2010 Report Share Posted August 9, 2010 More and more posts like this on Ford and GM boards have convinced me that you need to buy a car that doesn't need mods to perform how you want it to. -or- Fully understand that if you do ANYTHING to the vehicle, it is on YOU to fix it if anything goes wrong. Right or wrong, that is what I am seeing. A clutch is definately going to be impacted by a pulley swap.....and from what I've seen that is the only case I've seen on these forums of Ford not willing to Warranty something. It's rare that a manufacturer will replace a clutch no warranty or all, it's too easy to smoke it. On the subject I tested my 1-2 shift again today pulling out of summit racing. I had a slight grind going into second at rev-limit (waited for the engine to kick off before shifting) but it went in easy, I then hit a red light before the on ramp and when I was on the on-ramp I again hit the rev-limit, Shifted while focusing (didn't have to pull THAT hard, just not limpwristed) and it went in perfectly with no grinding. Only thing I can thing of is continued grinding will damage it further making the problem worse, or some people here have some defects but I can say with certainty here that at 6200+ RPMs and focusing my shift I'm getting no grinding on an '11. This isn't something you can say will happen on "all" 6060s. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ezkill Posted August 9, 2010 Report Share Posted August 9, 2010 I'm not having any problems on my 2011 at all. Taking it up to redline and grabbing second I get no resistance and no grinding. I've always shifted hard and fast in my vehicles so it's possible that my shifting style is not allowing the grinding to come out. I'll try to shift more softly and see if anything comes up but it's totally problem free for now. I did find this hydraulic clutch thing wierd at first, since the it was fully engaged at about 2/3rd's travel. I found this odd because I'm used to the length of travel being a lot shorter. Other then that the transmisson and clutch have just been great so far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattR Posted August 9, 2010 Report Share Posted August 9, 2010 I'm not having any problems on my 2011 at all. Taking it up to redline and grabbing second I get no resistance and no grinding. I've always shifted hard and fast in my vehicles so it's possible that my shifting style is not allowing the grinding to come out. I'll try to shift more softly and see if anything comes up but it's totally problem free for now. I did find this hydraulic clutch thing wierd at first, since the it was fully engaged at about 2/3rd's travel. I found this odd because I'm used to the length of travel being a lot shorter. Other then that the transmisson and clutch have just been great so far. I called my dealer this morning. They told me I am the second guy thats called them about a 2011 Shelby grinding from 1-2. All I can say on my shifting style is that when I drive my brother 2009 GT I am greeted by tires burning from the 1-2 shift, if I drive my Shelby the same way all I get is grinding . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ezkill Posted August 9, 2010 Report Share Posted August 9, 2010 I called my dealer this morning. They told me I am the second guy thats called them about a 2011 Shelby grinding from 1-2. All I can say on my shifting style is that when I drive my brother 2009 GT I am greeted by tires burning from the 1-2 shift, if I drive my Shelby the same way all I get is grinding . I definately don't have the same problem then because I generally melt the tires going into second from shifting hard and fast(when I'm driving spiritedly). Leaves two nice snaking black marks on the road. No hesitation or grind at all. I'll try to shift a bit softer and see what happens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattR Posted August 9, 2010 Report Share Posted August 9, 2010 I sent a note to Tremec with high hopes to get some sort of an answer. Here was the response. Hello Matt, Thank you for your interest on the Tremec Product Line. I would recommend letting Ford look at your clutch to ensure that it is releasing properly. With the TR-6060 transmission you need to use the clutch in order to make a clean and clash free shift. If you are using the clutch and it does not release properly you will experience clash and grind scenarios. Please contact us if we can be of further assistance. Regards, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackyl13 Posted August 9, 2010 Report Share Posted August 9, 2010 So in short .... Did u know you have to use the clutch ? What a joke !!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davegt500 Posted August 9, 2010 Report Share Posted August 9, 2010 High Hopes.......Dashed! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bpmurr Posted August 10, 2010 Report Share Posted August 10, 2010 I sent a note to Tremec with high hopes to get some sort of an answer. Here was the response. Hello Matt, Thank you for your interest on the Tremec Product Line. I would recommend letting Ford look at your clutch to ensure that it is releasing properly. With the TR-6060 transmission you need to use the clutch in order to make a clean and clash free shift. If you are using the clutch and it does not release properly you will experience clash and grind scenarios. Please contact us if we can be of further assistance. Regards, This is all making sense. Despite my clutch woes, with the McLeod installed shifting into 2nd wasn't an issue anymore. This would also explain why it's not a problem on the 07-09 even thought it has the same trans. Maybe it's the new clutch.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackyl13 Posted August 10, 2010 Report Share Posted August 10, 2010 Funny because Lethal said the same thing. They had grinding at first and with all the hp they changed to McLeod and said they haven't had any grinding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpevin Posted August 10, 2010 Report Share Posted August 10, 2010 Funny because Lethal said the same thing. They had grinding at first and with all the hp they changed to McLeod and said they haven't had any grinding. IMO its a combination of the three, slower hydraulic clutch release, heavy clutch discs and heavy trans internals with narrower syncros. I'm sure everything is just fine on its own, Tremec does its testing, the clutch vendor does its testing and the hydraulic guys do their testing and everything is just peachy on its own. But when all three are put together there is a problem somewhere. Just putting better blockers in the trans, switching the clutch hydraulic line to the steel one FRPP sells, or switching the clutch itself may make it better. Maybe changing all three will make it way better. Maybe some guys have everything working perfect and just dont have the issue, or their definition of 'fast shifting' is different than others. The transmission has not changed much from the 2007-2009 cars and there is not the number of 1-2 grind complaints from those guys. So instead of guessing you have to look at exactly what changed, and thats the clutch. I also think they changed the slave cylinder as well. My car seems to get worse when hot so I think its a clutch release issue, that silly little plastic line to the slave gets pretty hot so who knows whats going on there. Plus there may be some sort of restricter in the master, line or slave thats put there to make engagement/disengagement smoother. Sadly since a lot of people wont say anything to SVT or dealers and its such a limited production car I doubt anything will ever be done for a while if at all. They may sneak some new parts in there and not say anything to help it some but you are pretty much on your own. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldSchool Posted August 10, 2010 Report Share Posted August 10, 2010 This is all making sense. Despite my clutch woes, with the McLeod installed shifting into 2nd wasn't an issue anymore. This would also explain why it's not a problem on the 07-09 even thought it has the same trans. Maybe it's the new clutch.... So are things better with your car at this point with the McLeod in? Hope so... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randymarble Posted August 10, 2010 Report Share Posted August 10, 2010 Just my .02cents worth here. I now have about 2,200 miles on my 2011 SVTPP GT500 and I cannot shift from 1-2 quickly if I am anywhere near the redline. I've just learned to shift at about 5,000 rpm and let the supercharger and torque of the engine make up for the situation. I've never seen a car go that much quicker in 60 ft at the drag strip if you short shift as long as you stay in the high end of the torque band and with this engine, 5,000 rpm is definately there, plus with the forced induction and instant boost being there for 2nd gear, I doubt that it is really much of a factor. I am disappointed, but will wait to see what others are doing for this fix as I wear things out. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bpmurr Posted August 11, 2010 Report Share Posted August 11, 2010 So are things better with your car at this point with the McLeod in? Hope so... It's still being installed. Despite the other issues the one thing I didn't have a problem with is the 1-2 shift. The 1-2 shift pretty much grinds every time with the stock clutch. My money is on the stock clutch being the problem here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattR Posted August 12, 2010 Report Share Posted August 12, 2010 Well I struck out again. I first called my dealer with no help from them, just bring it in and we will test it out for ya. E-Mailed Tremec, well you can see my post from above. My final try was a engineer at Ford, well I got a cookie cutter reply from him as well. Names have been left out. Dear Mr. Smith It is outside of my purview to communicate directly with consumers regarding their vehicle concerns in this context. I can say that I am unaware of any emerging issues of this type for your vehicle. As is due course in these matters; if you have a concern with your vehicle, you need to take it to your dealer for service. Once your concern has been verified, they can begin the process of resolving the matter in the most appropriate manner. Mr. Smith Field Service Engineer Ford Motor Company Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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