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Performance Brake Fluid ?


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Sorry if this has been covered before, I tried to find a thread on it but failed, so I will ask all of you now.

 

We are taking our SGT to our first open track event next month. But first, I am taking it to a driving school this Saturday at the same track as the track day. Yesterday, I ordered some Hawk HP Plus brake pads front and rear. In combination with those pads, it has been recommended to change out the original brake fluid. I stopped by the auto parts place today and looked at fluid. They had DOT 3, with a minimum liquid boiling point of 235 deg., DOT 4 with a minimum luiquid boiling point of 340 deg (I think that was it), and they also had some DOT 5 with a minimum liquid boiling point of 500 deg. Is picking a performance brake fluid as simple as getting the DOT 5 with the higher boiling point, or is there more to it that I don't know?

 

Any help you all could provide will be greatly appreciated.

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Definitely stick with DOT 4. I recommend Motul RBF 660 or 600.

You can buy it here: http://www.motorspotstore.com/mobrfl.html

 

Good luck!

 

Ken

 

Hey thanks Ken. Do you know how much fliud I will need? I have neve done brakes before. You may not remember, but we meet you at Grabbers meet. You have the best sounding SGT that I have ever heard.

 

Thanks again,

Jim

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You'll need at least 32oz to do a complete flush... I always keep an extra 1 or 2 around

 

I recently flushed mine with Wilwood EXP 600, purchased from Jegs

http://www.jegs.com/i/Wilwood/950/290-6209/10002/-1

 

If you want I can help you out- its a short drive to Vancouver

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You'll need at least 32oz to do a complete flush... I always keep an extra 1 or 2 around

 

I recently flushed mine with Wilwood EXP 600, purchased from Jegs

http://www.jegs.com/i/Wilwood/950/290-6209/10002/-1

 

If you want I can help you out- its a short drive to Vancouver

 

Can dot 3 be mixed with dot 4?

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ATE Super Blue. Hands down the best I have ever used.

 

http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/ate/ate_superblue_fluid.jsp

 

+1

 

Because of the BLUE color, it is also the easiest way to tell that NEW fluid has made it all the way from the Master Cylinder to each caliper...

 

Drive Safe!

07SGT0547

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Hey thanks Ken. Do you know how much fliud I will need? I have neve done brakes before. You may not remember, but we meet you at Grabbers meet. You have the best sounding SGT that I have ever heard.

 

Thanks again,

Jim

I needed 2 1/2 liters to fully flush the system.

That works out to be around 75 oz of brake fluid! But it's well worth it to get all of the OEM stuff out.

And ya man I remember you up there, it was nice talking with you! Thanks a lot for the compliment. :)

 

All of the fluid recommend is great stuff. You ought to be really happy using any of these brands.

Good luck!

 

Ken

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ATE Super Blue. Hands down the best I have ever used.

 

http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/ate/ate_superblue_fluid.jsp

 

 

I live in Florida and the first Paragraph states:

 

NOTE TO FLORIDA RESIDENTS ONLY: ATE Super Blue Racing Brake Fluid,

due to its blue color, cannot be registered in and is not DOT-approved

for street cars in Florida.

 

Can I still buy it?

 

Why for Florida Residents?

 

John

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I live in Florida and the first Paragraph states:

 

NOTE TO FLORIDA RESIDENTS ONLY: ATE Super Blue Racing Brake Fluid,

due to its blue color, cannot be registered in and is not DOT-approved

for street cars in Florida.

 

Can I still buy it?

 

Why for Florida Residents?

 

John

 

 

I use Brembo LCF 600. I have never had an issue and it has a higher boiling point than ATE Super Blue.

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Maybe a dumb question here, but are any of these fluids synthetic? Does a synthetic brake fluid do the same as engine oil or gear oil by lowering operating temps thus keeping boiling points lower? I have never looked into a higher performance brake fluid I am quite curious. :headscratch:

 

 

I've purchased Dot 4 synthetic brake fluid before. I believe it was from Valvoline. I'm sure there are other brands of synthetic brake fluid.

 

Steve

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  • 2 weeks later...

Now that I got the fluid, I am wondering what the best method is for changing it out. I have been told to put drain pans under each brake and just "crack" the fitting so as to slowly drain the system using gravity. Also was told don't add any new fluid to the master until the fluid is all the way drained from it, which would prevent mixing of the fluids. At that point, I can start adding fluid to the system until I can see the fluid color change at the brake fitting. Tighten the fitting, and then top off the master.

 

If any of you know of a better way, easier way, please let me know.

 

I needed 2 1/2 liters to fully flush the system.

That works out to be around 75 oz of brake fluid! But it's well worth it to get all of the OEM stuff out.

/quote]

 

I only bought one full liter. Am I going to have an issue if I only use one liter? No where on the container does it say not to mix.

 

Thanks.

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I would buy at least another liter.

Do not drain your brake system first. This will undoubtedly cause air to get trapped in the system. You want to use a turkey baster to suck some out of the master, then open your bleeds a hair.

I highly recommend investing in a set of speed bleeders. Regardless, you want to continually add the new fluid, while you're pumping the old stuff out. Pump a time or two, then check the master level, and add new fluid if it's getting too low.

Your only concerns are 1) getting all of the old fluid out and 2) not running the master cylinder dry. It's a lot easier the first time you do this with someone watching the fluid level for you in the master cylinder and adding as necessary. If you have any serious concern about whether you can do this on your own, you'll save yourself a ton of headache by taking it to a shop. I've heard of a few guys having to have their cars towed to a shop, after locking their brake system up with air (after draining the entire system before adding the new fluid). Good luck!

 

Ken

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Now that I got the fluid, I am wondering what the best method is for changing it out. I have been told to put drain pans under each brake and just "crack" the fitting so as to slowly drain the system using gravity. Also was told don't add any new fluid to the master until the fluid is all the way drained from it, which would prevent mixing of the fluids. At that point, I can start adding fluid to the system until I can see the fluid color change at the brake fitting. Tighten the fitting, and then top off the master.

 

If any of you know of a better way, easier way, please let me know.

 

I only bought one full liter. Am I going to have an issue if I only use one liter? No where on the container does it say not to mix.

 

Thanks.

 

As mentioned before my garage is open got all the tools needed if you need a hand... I'm home all weekend and work for cheap, already got the beer thing covered with a fresh 1/6 barrel of Drop Top on tap :)

 

PM me and I'll send you my address and phone #

 

 

=-=-=-=-=-=-==-==-=-=

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Sorry if this has been covered before, I tried to find a thread on it but failed, so I will ask all of you now.

 

We are taking our SGT to our first open track event next month. But first, I am taking it to a driving school this Saturday at the same track as the track day. Yesterday, I ordered some Hawk HP Plus brake pads front and rear. In combination with those pads, it has been recommended to change out the original brake fluid. I stopped by the auto parts place today and looked at fluid. They had DOT 3, with a minimum liquid boiling point of 235 deg., DOT 4 with a minimum luiquid boiling point of 340 deg (I think that was it), and they also had some DOT 5 with a minimum liquid boiling point of 500 deg. Is picking a performance brake fluid as simple as getting the DOT 5 with the higher boiling point, or is there more to it that I don't know?

 

Any help you all could provide will be greatly appreciated.

 

 

How do you bleed the Clutch???????

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