ssemich Posted June 4, 2009 Report Share Posted June 4, 2009 Hello, I have a 2007 Ford Mustang GT...Have done alot of work on it so far and wanted to get advice on next mods: so far done: roush short shifter, ford racing x pipe, roush exhaust, cdc foose hood, cdc shaker, jlt intake, superchips flashpaq custom tune, FRPP suspension, FRPP 373 gears, FRPP rear diff cover, push button start, CS front fascia, CDC black billet grill, shelby black lower billet grill, billet engine caps, strut tower caps, canton motorsports aluminum power steering and radiator expansion tanks, shelby billet hood pins, shelby brake duct kit, lower piaa fog lights, roush side louvers, Ford CS side scoops, granatelli line lock, aerofrce interceptor guages in dual speed of sound pillar mount, and CDC center dash pod with autometer colbalt guages, fuel pressure, water temp, oil pressure, Red brake caliper covers, stainless steel brake lines, hawk ceramic pads, granatelli slotted/dimpled rotors. Was thinking subframe connectors, frame rail box brace, panhard bar and brace, LCA relocation brackets, Aluminum drive shaft, drive shaft safety loop, electric water pump, undedrive pulleys, MSD coil over plugs, ford CMVV delete plates, shorty headers Wanted to get thoughts on gains on these mods? Recommendations on other mods? Thanks, Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kahmann Posted June 4, 2009 Report Share Posted June 4, 2009 Subframes and frame rail braces are completely unnecessary on this chassis. Panhard bar, lightweight driveshaft, and UD pulleys are highly recommended. Shortys are a waste IMO. I have them now and noticed zero gains. I'm going to try a set of LT's next. Good luck. Ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vapor08GT500 Posted June 4, 2009 Report Share Posted June 4, 2009 +1 to all Ken just said above. I Have owned a Mustang shop for years and really stress what an improvment long tube headers make on any mod motor. I installed a set of MAC longtubes on a customer's SGT 3 weeks ago and really noticed a great improvement. He picked up 31 RWHP. Alex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Five Oh B Posted June 4, 2009 Report Share Posted June 4, 2009 From your list, get these: 1-pc aluminum driveshaft, driveshaft safety loop, and spring for long tube headers. The other stuff offers minimal or no gains, IMO. Add to your list: forced induction - any kind is good! Roots/twinscrew/centrifugal supercharger or turbo - no bad choices out there! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssemich Posted June 4, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2009 From your list, get these: 1-pc aluminum driveshaft, driveshaft safety loop, and spring for long tube headers. The other stuff offers minimal or no gains, IMO.Add to your list: forced induction - any kind is good! Roots/twinscrew/centrifugal supercharger or turbo - no bad choices out there! Thanks for the advice. Which long tubes should I go for? Will they work with my ford racing x pipe and roush exhaust? Which drive shaft and safety loop do you recommend? Also wondering what is the largest tire I can put on teh stock 18 x 8.5 polished factory Rim? Tire recommendations? Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUFDRAFT Posted June 4, 2009 Report Share Posted June 4, 2009 Hi Steve - sounds like you need some wider rear rims! You've got some great advice here already - I'll just add more rear rim to get more rear tire. Throw on some 10" rims and get some 305's or larger! Looks like you've got quite a hot rod going. How about some pics? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kahmann Posted June 5, 2009 Report Share Posted June 5, 2009 Biggest tire on the stockers is a 255/45. I'm running that size Goodyear F1's and the difference over the stock BFG's is night/day. I still recommend the UD pulleys. The gains are noticeable and the downside is next to nothing. Any pics of what you've got done so far? Ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssemich Posted June 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2009 will post some pics when I get the car back...Getting brakes, front fascia, side scoops, billet grill installed this week...Hope to get car back next week... Sounds like next will be long tubes, aluminum driveshaft , underdrive pulleys, drive shaft loops... then Tires... What type of gais will I see from long tubes, UD pulleys and drive shaft? Can you get factory rear wheels in 10"? Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kahmann Posted June 5, 2009 Report Share Posted June 5, 2009 will post some pics when I get the car back...Getting brakes, front fascia, side scoops, billet grill installed this week...Hope to get car back next week... Sounds like next will be long tubes, aluminum driveshaft , underdrive pulleys, drive shaft loops... then Tires... What type of gais will I see from long tubes, UD pulleys and drive shaft? Can you get factory rear wheels in 10"? Steve FRPP sells some 10" wide rims, yes, but not the stock bullitts. From those 3 mods, you should see 30-40 HP to the crank, IMO. The UD pulleys are a 5-10 HP gain by themselves, which is great for the money. I don't have the DS yet, but have heard good reports from lots of guys. The LT's are more effective with a boosted engine for sure, but the gains are absolutely evident with an NA block. I'd expect 15-20 HP out of those alone. If anyone disagrees, they haven't been for a ride in a 3V with LT's. I have and they're great, boosted or not. Ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
socalwrench Posted June 16, 2009 Report Share Posted June 16, 2009 Don't the longtube headers remove the catalytic converters at the same time? If so, I'm sure part of the power gain is from removing them. I can tell you that longtube headers are in my plans as well- some day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmn444 Posted August 31, 2009 Report Share Posted August 31, 2009 On the underdrive pulleys, I read somewhere and can't find it now, that the belt driven accessories on our cars are clutched to dissengage at full throttle anyway, seems like this mod wouldn't help much if that's really true, anybody have dyno results that disagree? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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