STSVT Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 Just wanted to know, have any of you SGT owners had your hoods repainted or replaced due to the corrosion problems under the hood plates for 07 models and under the billet caps for the 08 models. Also has the problem started again after the paint repair was done. Thanks for any info anyone can share. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkyDancer Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 Just wanted to know, have any of you SGT owners had your hoods repainted or replaced due to the corrosion problems under the hood plates for 07 models and under the billet caps for the 08 models. Also has the problem started again after the paint repair was done. Thanks for any info anyone can share. Mine has started again as well after seven months. I'm supposed to be getting a call to schedule a second time fix here pretty soon. I hope this isn't going to keep happening for the entire life of the car. After a while it will get to be annoying having to take the car into the shop once every year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffIsHereToo Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 Just wanted to know, have any of you SGT owners had your hoods repainted or replaced due to the corrosion problems under the hood plates for 07 models and under the billet caps for the 08 models. Also has the problem started again after the paint repair was done. Thanks for any info anyone can share. Do you have an 07 or an 08? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffIsHereToo Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 Mine has started again as well after seven months. I'm supposed to be getting a call to schedule a second time fix here pretty soon. I hope this isn't going to keep happening for the entire life of the car. After a while it will get to be annoying having to take the car into the shop once every year. Do you have an 07 or an 08? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gth0007 Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 Just wanted to know, have any of you SGT owners had your hoods repainted or replaced due to the corrosion problems under the hood plates for 07 models and under the billet caps for the 08 models. Also has the problem started again after the paint repair was done. Thanks for any info anyone can share. I have a theory on that problem. I decided to switch hoods with the Shelby CS-6/Hertz fiberglas hood. I switched the hood pin plates from one hood to the other. When I lifted the round rubber gasket below the chrome plate, the gasket was really stuck to the paint. I slowly lifted it but it still pulled some paint loose from the stock hood. Strange. I also removed the vinyl stripes on my car and not once was the vinyl stuck to the paint like the rubber gasket was under the chrome plates. (no paint lifted even though it was very hard getting the vinyl off) My theory is that the chemicals in the rubber is eating through the paint onto the aluminum hood causing the corrosion issues. Just a theory and maybe a different gasket material would solve the problem ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilmor Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 I forget - I think the plates are stainless steel, but what material are the screws, also s/s? Isn't this all simply a result of electrolysis between the s/s and the aluminum hood - especially if the screws are s/s? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueshawk Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 I forget - I think the plates are stainless steel, but what material are the screws, also s/s? Isn't this all simply a result of electrolysis between the s/s and the aluminum hood - especially if the screws are s/s? Yes is the short answer. The galvanic corrosion on my 2007 SGT appears to be STOPPED! I keep my car outside (covered) but it still gets wet and it has been raining a lot here for the last month. I still have some flaws in the paint near one of the hood pin plates but I didn't have it repaired. Why? I had just spent a month getting the hood scoop and stripes replaced (had to drive to another state to do it) when I dicovered the corrosion. It's not noticable and I'm not going to do anything about it unless it gets worse I bought the 2008 billet hodd pins and also bought #8 aluminum screws from McFeely's. This combination completely eliminates stainless steel contact with the hood. The contact of the sliding pin with the aluminum billet plate appears NOT be a problem. If it becomes one, then the billet plate will show corrosion. I think the primary culperts are the CRES screws (with the stainless plates being secondary) because the corrosion appears even on the 2008 billet hood pin sets which have a nice aluminum plate and a good plastic spacer between it and the hood. If you have a 2008 SGT then you need to buy #6 aluminum screws to fit the holes already drilled in your hood (those pin sets have smaller screws than the 2007 sets). For the 2007 SGT's you'll have to take a dremel or something to grind down the diameter of the screw head so that it fits in the counterbore of the aluminum billet plates. Also you'll need to slightly open up the diameter of the thru holes for each screw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STSVT Posted June 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 Thanks guys for all your info, the reason i asked was because im looking to buy a still new 2008 SGT vista blue coupe and of course its been outside for a year and has all of the issues with faded stipes hood scoop warped etc... The worst problem is on the drivers side where the issue of the paint bubbling under the billet hood cap. I have looked far and wide to locate another car but they are not too many left most of them are sold. So i have to buy what i can find since they are not making them anymore, other than that its in good condition Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffIsHereToo Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 First the idea that Aluminum and Stainless together are the cause has not been proven. It's just conjecture and the marine manual states that normally these two metals should be fine together. I'm not saying that's not the cause, or that this doesn't contribute to the cause, only that nothing has been proven or released by SAI or Ford. Having said that Ford has released a TSB for the 07's made during a specific period where the aluminum hood develops corrosion due to iron in the atmosphere that may have landed on the hood prior to painting. The result is just as we describe with bubbling pain etc. In our case we have exposed metal that's open to the elements which could, in an 07 with the above issue give the iron the exposure it needs to get going, or expose it to elements that contain metals that react with aluminum at a much higher degree than stainless. We've already seen what iron fallout can do to stripes here imagine that same content mixed with rain water and getting down into the exposed metal of the hood. I can't imagine a good result. My point here is that while many have focused on the screws as the source of the problem, and they may be, I'm more inclined to think since not every car has this issue, that there is something else in play here and if I'm right, and the issue is the exposed metal to environmental factors it doesn't matter what screws you use the result will be the same. Someone would need to do a serious analysis to truly determine the cause here of which there may be more than one! -Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueshawk Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 First the idea that Aluminum and Stainless together are the cause has not been proven. It's just conjecture and the marine manual states that normally these two metals should be fine together. I'm not saying that's not the cause, or that this doesn't contribute to the cause, only that nothing has been proven or released by SAI or Ford. Having said that Ford has released a TSB for the 07's made during a specific period where the aluminum hood develops corrosion due to iron in the atmosphere that may have landed on the hood prior to painting. The result is just as we describe with bubbling pain etc. In our base we have exposed metal that's open to the elements which could contain metals that react with aluminum at a much higher degree than stainless. We've already seen what iron fallout can do to stripes here imagine that same content mixed with rain water and getting down into the exposed metal of the hood. I can't imagine a good result. My point here is that while many have focused on the screws as the source of the problem, and they may be, I'm more inclined to think since not every car has this issue, that there is something else in play here and if I'm right, and the issue is the exposed metal to environmental factors it doesn't matter what screws you use the result will be the same. Someone would need to do a serious analysis to truly determine the cause here of which there may be more than one! -Jeff Being in the marine industry, we often used CRES screws with aluminum, but we need to be sure that the aluminum is treated with alodine or anodize and painted when in contact with aluminum AND exposed to the above deck environment. Below deck, we can get away with doing just alodine or anodize when the equipment is not exposed (which means we don't paint the interior of aluminum electronic cabinets, etc.). The coatings will insulate the conductive path and stop galvanic corrosion even when using CRES and aluminum. The problem with the hood is that the screws are threaded directly into the aluminum and you wind up with direct contact of the CRES and the untreated aluminum holes. The other factor you need is HUMIDIY or MOISTURE to make the galvanic coupling occur. My car didn't have any problems for two years until I had to leave it outside, without a cover and got hit by an ice storm in February of this year. A few days of this, the ice thawed and sure enough I discover the bubbling of paint around the hood pins (just on the drivers side). Now, I have not tested the fix by exposing my car to another ice storm, but I think this fix is likely to work. We also have seen severe galvanic corrosion on aluminum parts on ships that almost turn the exposed metal into mush! That's my story and I'm sticking with it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkGT08 Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 OK, so I have an 08 with a rivetted plate from day one, not screws. What's up with that? They appear to be aluminum. Was this a fix to the corrosion problem? And who did it, Shelby or possibly the dealer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffIsHereToo Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 Being in the marine industry, we often used CRES screws with aluminum, but we need to be sure that the aluminum is treated with alodine or anodize and painted when in contact with aluminum AND exposed to the above deck environment. Below deck, we can get away with doing just alodine or anodize when the equipment is not exposed (which means we don't paint the interior of aluminum electronic cabinets, etc.). The coatings will insulate the conductive path and stop galvanic corrosion even when using CRES and aluminum. The problem with the hood is that the screws are threaded directly into the aluminum and you wind up with direct contact of the CRES and the untreated aluminum holes. The other factor you need is HUMIDIY or MOISTURE to make the galvanic coupling occur. My car didn't have any problems for two years until I had to leave it outside, without a cover and got hit by an ice storm in February of this year. A few days of this, the ice thawed and sure enough I discover the bubbling of paint around the hood pins (just on the drivers side). Now, I have not tested the fix by exposing my car to another ice storm, but I think this fix is likely to work. We also have seen severe galvanic corrosion on aluminum parts on ships that almost turn the exposed metal into mush! That's my story and I'm sticking with it! Painting around the hood pins is not going to fix any sort of "galvanic coupling" between the aluminum and the CRES screw which I'm taking as the basis of your argument. It will protect the exposed areas of the actual hood pin hole from the elements which is the basis of my message. Again, I am not saying what the specific cause is, only saying that no one knows what the cause is, and anything stated thus far is conjecture. I think there is more to this than the crews and even if you use aluminum screws you still have raw exposed aluminum laying next to painted aluminum and I can see how something that reacts with that naked metal would extend itself under the paint and bubble over time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueshawk Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 Painting around the hood pins is not going to fix any sort of "galvanic coupling" between the aluminum and the CRES screw which I'm taking as the basis of your argument. It will protect the exposed areas of the actual hood pin hole from the elements which is the basis of my message. Again, I am not saying what the specific cause is, only saying that no one knows what the cause is, and anything stated thus far is conjecture. I think there is more to this than the crews and even if you use aluminum screws you still have raw exposed aluminum laying next to painted aluminum and I can see how something that reacts with that naked metal would extend itself under the paint and bubble over time. http://metals.lincdigital.com.au/files/ASM...20Corrosion.pdf This is a good description of the problem. I also says that "carbon black" fillers in rubber can be a source of graphite which can be worse than CRES. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chill Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 OK, so I have an 08 with a rivetted plate from day one, not screws. What's up with that? They appear to be aluminum. Was this a fix to the corrosion problem? And who did it, Shelby or possibly the dealer? Never heard of it before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffIsHereToo Posted June 3, 2009 Report Share Posted June 3, 2009 http://metals.lincdigital.com.au/files/ASM...20Corrosion.pdf This is a good description of the problem. I also says that "carbon black" fillers in rubber can be a source of graphite which can be worse than CRES. That may be something! You can't get much worse than graphite! I can see now three ways corrosion could happen: 1. Aluminum to CRES galvanic 2. Aluminum to environment (metals in the water) 3. Rubber deterioration or contact with water moving graphite into contact with aluminum The plot thickens! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkGT08 Posted June 4, 2009 Report Share Posted June 4, 2009 Never heard of it before. Well, here you go. This is the way I got it from the dealer. Aluminum rivets from day one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SGT/SC#0471 Posted June 4, 2009 Report Share Posted June 4, 2009 Well, here you go. This is the way I got it from the dealer. Aluminum rivets from day one. Gotta love Shelby....I'd bet it happened in Vegas? Awesome to see one different.... LOOKS GREAT!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kahmann Posted June 4, 2009 Report Share Posted June 4, 2009 Well, here you go. This is the way I got it from the dealer. Aluminum rivets from day one. I've never seen that either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkGT08 Posted June 4, 2009 Report Share Posted June 4, 2009 I've never seen that either. Until I started reading about the corrosion problems, I thought they all came this way. I have inspected the metal from above and below, and there is no evidence of corrosion at all. I thought maybe this was a solution for the problem that was made by Shelby. But mine is a Grabber Orange and the first ones built for 2008. So, by your reaction, it would appear that they went back to building them with screws after they built mine with rivets. Now, I'm curious how mine got this way. Anyone else have rivets as delivered? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueshawk Posted June 4, 2009 Report Share Posted June 4, 2009 Until I started reading about the corrosion problems, I thought they all came this way. I have inspected the metal from above and below, and there is no evidence of corrosion at all. I thought maybe this was a solution for the problem that was made by Shelby. But mine is a Grabber Orange and the first ones built for 2008. So, by your reaction, it would appear that they went back to building them with screws after they built mine with rivets.Now, I'm curious how mine got this way. Anyone else have rivets as delivered? Evidence that leans towards the screws being the real culprit? Maybe? But the only real course is to eliminate all graphite and dissimilar metal contact to be sure. BTW, you can use rivets instead of aluminum screws in the billet hood pins. My rivet tool (Craftsman) does fit inside the counterbore and could work to install rivets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2008GT-C Posted June 4, 2009 Report Share Posted June 4, 2009 My Shelby GT-C came equiped with Aluminum rivets also. This car was purchaced new with 25 miles from a CA dealership. I have not seen corrosion as of yet. When the holes were drilled into the hood the exposed metal was not touched up leaving unpainted metal. I thought it was odd that my car came with rivets and not screws like the other Shelby's I have seen. As far Galvanic Corrosion it is something I have seen where I work. We have to use Monel tubing in certain areas of the plant due to the salt water and the unlike metals these pipes and tubing are attatched to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chill Posted June 4, 2009 Report Share Posted June 4, 2009 Steve, SoFLA5GT, replaced his screws with rivets and it looks really nice. His rivet tool didn't quite fit so he improvised. I bought my rivet tool at Lowes and haven't checked to see if it will fit but it's good to know the Craftsman tool fits. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SGT-C0056 Posted June 4, 2009 Report Share Posted June 4, 2009 Well, here you go. This is the way I got it from the dealer. Aluminum rivets from day one. Mark, ALL 2008 SGT GO had these hood pins and plates with rivits. later models (Vista Blue came with billet pins). I drilled mine out last month and replaced them with the new Billet hood pins. A couple of things: 1- on the possitive side, your hood wont get scratched when you remove the pins to open the hood. It happened to me. 2- they are much nicer 3- you can look at the corrosion and treated. I had a bit of corrosion, paint bubbling up around 2 of the RIVET holes, not the pin holes. So i treated it and hope I got it early enough. The Bad points: The holes dont match perfectly, so I had to drill a couple of holes, no big deal. took me lots of opening and closing to get the right fit and clearence. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
39Mustang Posted June 4, 2009 Report Share Posted June 4, 2009 Just wanted to know, have any of you SGT owners had your hoods repainted or replaced due to the corrosion problems under the hood plates for 07 models and under the billet caps for the 08 models. Also has the problem started again after the paint repair was done. Thanks for any info anyone can share. Park it in the garage... If no garage available, buy a quality car cover! Makes NO sense to spend $40k, $50k on our Shelby's and then use a K-Mart special car cover. If you clean it correctly should be no problems... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkGT08 Posted June 4, 2009 Report Share Posted June 4, 2009 Park it in the garage... If no garage available, buy a quality car cover! Makes NO sense to spend $40k, $50k on our Shelby's and then use a K-Mart special car cover. If you clean it correctly should be no problems... But I had to sell my house and garage to buy the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greaser Posted June 4, 2009 Report Share Posted June 4, 2009 i put the rivets in mine i think they look better than the screws anyways. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07-2937 Posted June 5, 2009 Report Share Posted June 5, 2009 We did do ALL GO cars with rivets... But with that being said the untreated exposed aluminum should not be an issue there are airplanes from back in the 50's and 60's unpainted and untreated as well as Shelby cobras in perfect condition. the corrosion is from the dissimilar metal contacts (THE SCREWS) as well as maybe not washing and detailing thoroughly. ( I know someone is gonna say that those old airplanes suffered immense corrosion on spars and struts ribs and wheel wells most of that also came from moisture/dirt and grease... Once again steel screws, aluminum hood, keep it clean and dry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SGT/SC#0471 Posted June 5, 2009 Report Share Posted June 5, 2009 We did do ALL GO cars with rivets... But with that being said the untreated exposed aluminum should not be an issue there are airplanes from back in the 50's and 60's unpainted and untreated as well as Shelby cobras in perfect condition. the corrosion is from the dissimilar metal contacts (THE SCREWS) as well as maybe not washing and detailing thoroughly. ( I know someone is gonna say that those old airplanes suffered immense corrosion on spars and struts ribs and wheel wells most of that also came from moisture/dirt and grease... Once again steel screws, aluminum hood, keep it clean and dry Has there been any issuye with the rivets and corrosion? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueshawk Posted June 5, 2009 Report Share Posted June 5, 2009 Park it in the garage... If no garage available, buy a quality car cover! Makes NO sense to spend $40k, $50k on our Shelby's and then use a K-Mart special car cover. If you clean it correctly should be no problems... Even the BEST car cover, which I have, will not keep the car completely dry. Right now, it's been raining all night and my car is soaked. I wish I had a garage, but that's not going to happen. That said, a cover helps greatly in keeping the finish nice and I take good care of it. My particular case of hood pin corrosion stemmed from not being able to cover the car during the past winter because my wife hit the thing and the new paint needed 90 days to cure. An ice storm packed the hood pins with ice and snow that laid there for about 3 days. When I finially could get the car cleaned I noticed the corrosion. It took only 3 days of this to show corrosion. Yes, it happens that fast! Since I've redone my hood pins and eliminated all the CRES touching the hood, I've seen no more progression of the corrosiosn. If my wife hits my car again, I hope I get a judge with "empathy" (a fellow Shelby owner) and he rules "justifiable homicide"! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffIsHereToo Posted June 5, 2009 Report Share Posted June 5, 2009 Since I've redone my hood pins and eliminated all the CRES touching the hood, I've seen no more progression of the corrosion. Have you posted someplace how you did that? I don't remember now. If so could you drop a link or if not post that to the hood pin pinned thread? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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