kahmann Posted June 1, 2009 Report Share Posted June 1, 2009 I've posted some of these pics in the hood scoop thread already, but I figured it would be nice to have an isolated thread for those that might be interested in making their Shelby scoop functional, not buying a new one. Whether this most recent generation of SAI scoop will stand the test of time has yet to be determined. It seems much more rigid and of a higher quality than the original, though, that's for sure. Even with the better, updated scoop, I was still unhappy with the honeycomb block off plate. So I cut the hole in the hood, removed the honeycomb plate, and smoothed out the inside of the scoop. Lastly, the aluminum rivets were replaced with stainless bolts, washers, and nylock nuts. I'm now considering changing those yet again to the aluminum rivet-nuts that Chip suggested. Anyway, here are some pics of the completed work. I'd love to see pics and details from anyone else that has chosen a similar path. Ken (This is before they painted the blue center stripe last week.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blkGT500nCA Posted June 1, 2009 Report Share Posted June 1, 2009 Looks good man. Kind of makes ya wonder why they couldn't do that durning the conversion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChipBeck Posted June 1, 2009 Report Share Posted June 1, 2009 Gentlemen, I suppose my Shelby GT was the pioneer in this effort. My Heath scoop has been open for more than a year now. There have been no negative effects and my engine compartment is as clean as a whistle. The opening in my hood is quite a bit larger than most others I have seen. The center of our aluminum Mustang hoods form a natural template for this opening. I've been able to measure under hood temperatures using a remote digital aviation thermometer and there is a substantial reduction in under hood temperature in the area of the supercharger. Most importantly, I think it looks great. Chip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kahmann Posted June 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2009 Looks good man. Kind of makes ya wonder why they couldn't do that durning the conversion. Thanks a lot dude. This is the one thing that baffles me the most about SAI. I've heard all sorts of opinions about why they didn't open the hood up, but I'm not sure if any of them are true. I think it was simply a cost cutting measure. Most guys seem to be content with the faux scoop and I wish I was one of them LOL.. I'll keep monkeying with it till I'm completely satisfied, but I'm a whole lot happier with the car in general now that there's daylight through the hood. Ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilmor Posted June 1, 2009 Report Share Posted June 1, 2009 Ken, I'm assuming that you had the hole cut and then the new scoop installed? I don't suppose it is possible to do this w/ the scoop in place, or if it is it would be tricky! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07SGT0547 Posted June 1, 2009 Report Share Posted June 1, 2009 This "mod" is definitely first on my list for next Fall/Winter... Just trying to decide if I want to buy the Heath Scoop or go thru the "process" and get the newest scoop from SAI under waranty before I start cutting holes in the hood... Maybe if I could get my local Ford Dealer to get me the scoop and let me do it myself Gregg 07SGT0547 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HORSBYT Posted June 1, 2009 Report Share Posted June 1, 2009 I'd like to know how the honeycomb is "attached?" I'd like to remove the honeycomb without removing the scoop and cut the opening with a plasma cutter. I'm thinking that if I know how the honeycomb is attached then I could make the opening and it may be easier from underneath/behind? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug_GT350 Posted June 1, 2009 Report Share Posted June 1, 2009 This is the one thing that baffles me the most about SAI. I've heard all sorts of opinions about why they didn't open the hood up, but I'm not sure if any of them are true.I think it was simply a cost cutting measure. Most guys seem to be content with the faux scoop and I wish I was one of them LOL.. Ken Ken, keep in mind that not everyone only drives their car on nice days. If the hood was opened up without any way to close it in bad weather you would be playing heck with the electrical components that are continuously wet. I do wish that there was an option to replace the faux one with a functional one under the waranty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChipBeck Posted June 1, 2009 Report Share Posted June 1, 2009 Ken, keep in mind that not everyone only drives their car on nice days. If the hood was opened up without any way to close it in bad weather you would be playing heck with the electrical components that are continuously wet. I do wish that there was an option to replace the faux one with a functional one under the waranty. Doug, The theory that electrical components will get wet if your hood scoop is open sounds reasonable, but it's not true. Those of us who are running open scoops including myself have had a number of drives in pouring rain. At rest, no water enters that hood scoop as the hood slopes downward toward the front of the car and water runs off the front of the hood. At speed, primary airflow is about 4 inches above the top of the scoop as the near vertical surface of the Shelby GT grill acts as a bug deflector. I have posted several times a wind tunnel photo that clearly displays exactly what is going on here. You can conduct a simple test yourself however. When your Shelby GT is nice and clean, if you ever drive through a swarm of bugs you will have them smashed all over your windshield and grill and the leading edge of your hood when you get home. But when you look at the black plastic block off plate in your hood scoop opening, you will see virtually no bugs smashed there! Airflow separates from your hood well forward of that hood scoop which forces and keeps almost all debris including water flowing rearward several inches above the hood scoop opening. The two openings in the hood of the GT500 allow water to fall in when the car is at rest but airflow does not allow water to enter when the car is in motion. And it would be a mistake to think that the engine compartment of any car is watertight if there is no opening in the hood. A tremendous amount of water/mist/splash is thrown up into the engine department from the bottom as your car drives over wet roads. Water also enters the engine compartment through the radiator. The electronics under your hood may not survive the direct hit of a power washer, but they are designed to deal with the level of moisture that will enter your engine compartment every time you drive your car in the rain, open scoop or not. A lot of people (not just Shelby GT owners) are running open hood scoops on Mustangs. I have never read of one single instance nor have I had one myself of problems occurring as a result of driving in pouring rain with an open Mustang hood scoop. I believe actual experience should put that theory to rest once and for all. All the best. Chip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kahmann Posted June 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2009 Ken, keep in mind that not everyone only drives their car on nice days. If the hood was opened up without any way to close it in bad weather you would be playing heck with the electrical components that are continuously wet. I do wish that there was an option to replace the faux one with a functional one under the waranty. Chip is right, IMO. Also, I drive my SGT 7 days a week. It has over 22K miles already, so if I thought that this would cause any problem under the hood, I wouldn't have done it. Ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zdle Posted June 1, 2009 Report Share Posted June 1, 2009 Doug, The theory that electrical components will get wet if your hood scoop is open sounds reasonable, but it's not true. Those of us who are running open scoops including myself have had a number of drives in pouring rain. At rest, no water enters that hood scoop as the hood slopes downward toward the front of the car and water runs off the front of the hood. At speed, primary airflow is about 4 inches above the top of the scoop as the near vertical surface of the Shelby GT grill acts as a bug deflector. I have posted several times a wind tunnel photo that clearly displays exactly what is going on here. You can conduct a simple test yourself however. When your Shelby GT is nice and clean, if you ever drive through a swarm of bugs you will have them smashed all over your windshield and grill and the leading edge of your hood when you get home. But when you look at the black plastic block off plate in your hood scoop opening, you will see virtually no bugs smashed there! Airflow separates from your hood well forward of that hood scoop which forces and keeps almost all debris including water flowing rearward several inches above the hood scoop opening. The two openings in the hood of the GT500 allow water to fall in when the car is at rest but airflow does not allow water to enter when the car is in motion. And it would be a mistake to think that the engine compartment of any car is watertight if there is no opening in the hood. A tremendous amount of water/mist/splash is thrown up into the engine department from the bottom as your car drives over wet roads. Water also enters the engine compartment through the radiator. The electronics under your hood may not survive the direct hit of a power washer, but they are designed to deal with the level of moisture that will enter your engine compartment every time you drive your car in the rain, open scoop or not. A lot of people (not just Shelby GT owners) are running open hood scoops on Mustangs. I have never read of one single instance nor have I had one myself of problems occurring as a result of driving in pouring rain with an open Mustang hood scoop. I believe actual experience should put that theory to rest once and for all. All the best. Chip +++ 1 I think I have the 5th scoop Heath made , I put it on my white 07SGT #0652, 6 months ago , and I have driven it a couple times from the coast in Santa Barbra county to Willow Springs in the Mojave desert for some great track sessions of hard driving , and to Laguna Seca up the coast in Monteray (driving this car thtough Big Sur with no traffic was a religous expierience). These trips were in rain , in wind, at 100+ on the track, I have over 20,000 miles on the car , and the open hood scoop is the BEST part , it dumps quit a bit of heat at rest. I have found nothing inside the engine bay after hundreds of miles on each trip........... Any one out there know of some one who can tell me how to set -up a SPEC Clutch with Alum Fly wheel .......mine makes a bunch of noise ..it was put in with a new pilot bearing and release bearing but I did not see the work done , and I am thinking I should have done it my self. This set upseems to work well on the track but the noise and sloppyness is bothersome on the street..........suggestions from the knowlegeable would be a help...................................ZDS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Hill Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 Ok, you all have convinced me to go for it. I do have one question though. Does anybody have a link to this Heath scoop? Where do you get them? What do they cost? I have heard alot about them, but don't recall any info on how to get one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest hfrosso Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 I'd like to know how the honeycomb is "attached?" I'd like to remove the honeycomb without removing the scoop and cut the opening with a plasma cutter. I'm thinking that if I know how the honeycomb is attached then I could make the opening and it may be easier from underneath/behind? i've been wondering the same thing , but no answer yet!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FordRocks1 Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 i've been wondering the same thing , but no answer yet!! Well, it is attached to two L shaped pieces, its kind of hard to explain but you have to grind the piece that is holding the honeycomb part down to make things look smooth.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrewnagle1964 Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 Ok, you all have convinced me to go for it. I do have one question though. Does anybody have a link to this Heath scoop? Where do you get them? What do they cost? I have heard alot about them, but don't recall any info on how to get one. This is a quote from the email I got from Chip last year, asking the same question....I am not sure what Phoenix Composites is charging the scoop at this point but I think I paid $700, remember they are not in the hood scoop business but the aircraft building business Phoenix Composites "You may contact Phoenix Composites directly at 480-924-9750 or contact Heath Lhoste directly at 480-577-8935." Also this is a link to one of the original threads http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/index.php...=32540&st=0 Good luck Andrew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RACERX009 Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 I've posted some of these pics in the hood scoop thread already, but I figured it would be nice to have an isolated thread for those that might be interested in making their Shelby scoop functional, not buying a new one.Whether this most recent generation of SAI scoop will stand the test of time has yet to be determined. It seems much more rigid and of a higher quality than the original, though, that's for sure. Even with the better, updated scoop, I was still unhappy with the honeycomb block off plate. So I paid a shop to cut the hole in the hood, remove the honeycomb plate, and smooth out the inside of the scoop. Next week, they'll add a small rubber seal around the edge of the hole in the hood to clean it up even more. Lastly, the aluminum rivets were replaced with stainless bolts, washers, and nylock nuts. I'm now considering changing those yet again to the aluminum rivet-nuts that Chip suggested. Anyway, here are some pics of the completed work. I'd love to see pics and details from anyone else that has chosen a similar path. Ken (This is before they painted the blue center stripe last week.) Looks great !!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kahmann Posted June 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 Looks great !!! Thanks Racer.. And the scoop was free from SAI (kinda the point of this thread, but oh well).. Ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkyDancer Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 Thanks a lot dude.This is the one thing that baffles me the most about SAI. I've heard all sorts of opinions about why they didn't open the hood up, but I'm not sure if any of them are true. I think it was simply a cost cutting measure. Most guys seem to be content with the faux scoop and I wish I was one of them LOL.. I'll keep monkeying with it till I'm completely satisfied, but I'm a whole lot happier with the car in general now that there's daylight through the hood. Ken Somebody said in another post that supposedly there was a regulation against modifying the hood to have a hole which is total baloney...if that were the case then the Shaker setup couldn't have been produced and neither could have the heat vents been done. I agree that it was the result of some bean counter's ANAL cost cutting measure which in my opinion blew SAI's opportunity to finally get real function to take the place of FAKE form. To me FAKE FORM = LAZINESS = NO PRIDE in the workmanship. It's these kinds of attending to detail that they keep "cost cutting" on that are really what sets a design to be apart from everyday production cars and gives the design added value. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug_GT350 Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 Doug, The theory that electrical components will get wet if your hood scoop is open sounds reasonable, but it's not true. Those of us who are running open scoops including myself have had a number of drives in pouring rain. At rest, no water enters that hood scoop as the hood slopes downward toward the front of the car and water runs off the front of the hood. At speed, primary airflow is about 4 inches above the top of the scoop as the near vertical surface of the Shelby GT grill acts as a bug deflector. I have posted several times a wind tunnel photo that clearly displays exactly what is going on here. You can conduct a simple test yourself however. When your Shelby GT is nice and clean, if you ever drive through a swarm of bugs you will have them smashed all over your windshield and grill and the leading edge of your hood when you get home. But when you look at the black plastic block off plate in your hood scoop opening, you will see virtually no bugs smashed there! Airflow separates from your hood well forward of that hood scoop which forces and keeps almost all debris including water flowing rearward several inches above the hood scoop opening. The two openings in the hood of the GT500 allow water to fall in when the car is at rest but airflow does not allow water to enter when the car is in motion. And it would be a mistake to think that the engine compartment of any car is watertight if there is no opening in the hood. A tremendous amount of water/mist/splash is thrown up into the engine department from the bottom as your car drives over wet roads. Water also enters the engine compartment through the radiator. The electronics under your hood may not survive the direct hit of a power washer, but they are designed to deal with the level of moisture that will enter your engine compartment every time you drive your car in the rain, open scoop or not. A lot of people (not just Shelby GT owners) are running open hood scoops on Mustangs. I have never read of one single instance nor have I had one myself of problems occurring as a result of driving in pouring rain with an open Mustang hood scoop. I believe actual experience should put that theory to rest once and for all. All the best. Chip Well Chip thanks I guess I can stand somewhat corrected as shown by all the above posts, but I still have my doubts! I took my SGT out on Sunday for a ride here in the Poconos and after an hour ride on the back two lane roads, all I can say is, I guess the bugs in PA have to be educated. There are at least 4 splattered on the edge of the scoop and on the insert. I'm not here to blow holes in your therory, I know you spent alot of time and money investigating this and I trust your data but common sense tells me different. My point was to state why SAI and Ford didn't do it that's all. You know as well as me that if a problem was to show up the folks at Ford would point at the hole in the hood and blame it on that. If you were to tell them what is written above, thier comment would sound something like"you mean the hood won't get wet when you drive it in the rain?". That was my reasoning. Again I have to say thanks for all you have done working on this. It's people like you that keep the fun of driving these cars alive!! Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SGT/SC#0471 Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 I'd like to know how the honeycomb is "attached?" I'd like to remove the honeycomb without removing the scoop and cut the opening with a plasma cutter. I'm thinking that if I know how the honeycomb is attached then I could make the opening and it may be easier from underneath/behind? I thought about that too, however, the stripes, heat and the slag will not mix well IMO... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest hfrosso Posted June 3, 2009 Report Share Posted June 3, 2009 Well, it is attached to two L shaped pieces, its kind of hard to explain but you have to grind the piece that is holding the honeycomb part down to make things look smooth.... Thank's for the info, so that means the hood scoop has to come off the hood in order to be abble to remove the honeycomb grillle. maybe i'm going to have to live with that honeycomb grille a little longer!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SGT/SC#0471 Posted June 3, 2009 Report Share Posted June 3, 2009 my SAI last generation scoop installed is bad to the bone...no issues.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RACERX009 Posted June 4, 2009 Report Share Posted June 4, 2009 Thank's for the info, so that means the hood scoop has to come off the hood in order to be abble to remove the honeycomb grillle.maybe i'm going to have to live with that honeycomb grille a little longer!! It's not that hard the rivets drill out if you need too but your scoop might be bolted. Cutting out grille is just a pain but it's not that bad. Anthony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kahmann Posted June 6, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2009 I'd like to know how the honeycomb is "attached?" I'd like to remove the honeycomb without removing the scoop and cut the opening with a plasma cutter. I'm thinking that if I know how the honeycomb is attached then I could make the opening and it may be easier from underneath/behind? I took some pics of my original scoop just for you earlier today, so that you could see what it looks like inside. I'm not sure if the new scoop differs from the original on the flip side, but if it does, I'm sure it's not by much. You'll notice the big black insert in the first pics. This insert is a heavy foam like material, which I suspect is there to support the interior of the scoop from sagging. This isn't attached to the scoop at all, however, it would make the grill removal more difficult from underneath. There are 3 notches in the insert, which slip over the backside of the 3 bolts. You'll also notice that there is a ridge built into the interior of the scoop. This is what the honeycomb grill is bolted to. So even if you unbolt the honeycomb, you'll still have the molded ridge to look at. Granted, it's a couple inches further back than the front face of the honeycomb, so it may not be as noticeable. If you're planning on making it functional, this ridge will need to be shaved out of the scoop. Anyway, I hope these pics help you out! Ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kahmann Posted June 6, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2009 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kahmann Posted June 6, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2009 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RACERX009 Posted June 8, 2009 Report Share Posted June 8, 2009 I took some pics of my original scoop just for you earlier today, so that you could see what it looks like inside.I'm not sure if the new scoop differs from the original on the flip side, but if it does, I'm sure it's not by much. You'll notice the big black insert in the first pics. This insert is a heavy foam like material, which I suspect is there to support the interior of the scoop from sagging. This isn't attached to the scoop at all, however, it would make the grill removal more difficult from underneath. There are 3 notches in the insert, which slip over the backside of the 3 bolts. You'll also notice that there is a ridge built into the interior of the scoop. This is what the honeycomb grill is bolted to. So even if you unbolt the honeycomb, you'll still have the molded ridge to look at. Granted, it's a couple inches further back than the front face of the honeycomb, so it may not be as noticeable. If you're planning on making it functional, this ridge will need to be shaved out of the scoop. Anyway, I hope these pics help you out! Ken Hey, Ken mine didn't have that foam brick in it !!! As far as any warping it's about 3 weeks and none to be seen !!!! The engine has been running cooler about 190 in 80 degree weather. Anthony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HORSBYT Posted June 8, 2009 Report Share Posted June 8, 2009 Thanks for the pics Ken, that's exactly what I wanted to see... Unfortunately, it looks to me the scoop should be removed for sure. I was hoping there's be some other way. I took some pics of my original scoop just for you earlier today, so that you could see what it looks like inside.I'm not sure if the new scoop differs from the original on the flip side, but if it does, I'm sure it's not by much. You'll notice the big black insert in the first pics. This insert is a heavy foam like material, which I suspect is there to support the interior of the scoop from sagging. This isn't attached to the scoop at all, however, it would make the grill removal more difficult from underneath. There are 3 notches in the insert, which slip over the backside of the 3 bolts. You'll also notice that there is a ridge built into the interior of the scoop. This is what the honeycomb grill is bolted to. So even if you unbolt the honeycomb, you'll still have the molded ridge to look at. Granted, it's a couple inches further back than the front face of the honeycomb, so it may not be as noticeable. If you're planning on making it functional, this ridge will need to be shaved out of the scoop. Anyway, I hope these pics help you out! Ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kahmann Posted June 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2009 Thanks for the pics Ken, that's exactly what I wanted to see... Unfortunately, it looks to me the scoop should be removed for sure. I was hoping there's be some other way. Sorry to be the bummer man! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
riharley Posted June 8, 2009 Report Share Posted June 8, 2009 Does anyone know the exact paint code for the '07 hood scoop. I have some chips around the "rivets" and would like to touch up. Also, when painting the stripes on your car has anyone added metal flake to the paint so they look more like the original stripes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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