AlloyDropTop Posted May 23, 2009 Report Share Posted May 23, 2009 What does a good aftermarket clutch and flywheel cost to have installed in the GT500? I ask, because if the dollar amount is something I can stomach, I may not pursue having the TSB performed unless signs become more apparent. My car is an '08 with some of the running changes, and it may never warp the flywheel the way I drive. I hate to take any risk with dealer errors, etc... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve-s Posted May 23, 2009 Report Share Posted May 23, 2009 What does a good aftermarket clutch and flywheel cost to have installed in the GT500? I ask, because if the dollar amount is something I can stomach, I may not pursue having the TSB performed unless signs become more apparent. My car is an '08 with some of the running changes, and it may never warp the flywheel the way I drive. I hate to take any risk with dealer errors, etc... My policy: If it ain't broke, don't fix it. From my experience with lot's of other cars, Dealers can lead to more problems than you brought your car in to repair. Gotta even watch them do a simple oil change. Steve AZ. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blkGT500nCA Posted May 23, 2009 Report Share Posted May 23, 2009 It's over 5k in parts and labor. I'd get it done for free while you still can. That's my opinion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ingram4868 Posted May 23, 2009 Report Share Posted May 23, 2009 I agree with your concept steve-s. However, we have had so many members that did not exhibit any of the signs of failure and then it just went. We have had people with 700 miles and it gives up. It does make sense to try and get ahead of the game and replace the potentially faulty parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msbmustang Posted May 23, 2009 Report Share Posted May 23, 2009 I agree with your concept steve-s. However, we have had so many members that did not exhibit any of the signs of failure and then it just went. We have had people with 700 miles and it gives up. It does make sense to try and get ahead of the game and replace the potentially faulty parts. I had the Clutch/transmission TSB done 5k miles ago on my very early 07 GT500 (SVT production #12) and it really made a big difference. Better launch in 1st gear and more positive shifts in 2nd and 3rd. But mine had 78K miles on it when I had it done. 50K put on by Ford testing before I bought it. I would do it before your warranty runs out, especially if you do a lot of stop and go driving. Mine was almost all freeway driving for the 30K miles I put on it the last two years and it really started acting up at about 75k miles. Out of work now so it only gets a couple of hundred miles a month. It started making a vibration noise last week and I took it back into the dealer that did the Clutch/transmission TSB and they said it was a loose screw on the inspection plate on the transmission. No noise now. Hopefully the new clutch and transmission (they replaced 3 gear sets in mine) will go another 30-50k miles. I don't know if the Ford test team replaced my clutch before they sold mine to the dealer I bought it from. They would not release any service records but did sell me a factory warranty to 85K miles. 3K to go! That was $2k well spent as just the TSB costs around $6500 (that is what my receipt from the dealer said) and I have had a few other minor things fixed under warranty as well! Not sure if I should buy an aftermark etextended warranty at 85K? Mark / MSB Mustang Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve-s Posted May 24, 2009 Report Share Posted May 24, 2009 I agree with your concept steve-s. However, we have had so many members that did not exhibit any of the signs of failure and then it just went. We have had people with 700 miles and it gives up. It does make sense to try and get ahead of the game and replace the potentially faulty parts. Does make sense as long as you get lucky and have it done right. What I said was "most" times when I have brought my "cars, SUV's, trucks" I have owned over the past 40 years back to a dealership for warranty work, over 50% of the time work was not done right and had to return many, many times and/or something else went wrong very shortly after I had picked up the vehicle. Good competent mechanics are very hard to find and are far and few between. I just bought a new 09 VW Jetta/TDI Sport Wagon last Dec. Reading the manual on this car states only 1 type of oil to be used for this engine to stay in warranty. I live in a rural area of AZ. and Las Vegas is the nearest dealership and where I bought my car to me, some 2 hours drive. I made a trip to L.V. last month to pick up a visitor at the airport and figured I'd stop at the dealership and buy some oil to do my 1st oil change. Went to the parts dept. and told the counter person that I bought my TDI there, it was an 09 and I wanted to buy 6 quarts of engine oil for this car and owners manual stated "only" use 507. type oil. He brings out 6 quarts of oil, filter and drain plug as I asked for. I look at the oil and it is not the 507. type oil, it's 505. what is used in the gas engines and the older TDI's. I told him this was "not" the right oil. He says, I quote: this is the same oil we have our mechanics put in all the cars that are serviced here including the 09 TDI's. I says, let me talk to your shop supervisor please. Supervisor comes to the counter and I explain to him about the warranty calling "only" for 507. type oil. He says, your absolutely right. Super. goes back into the stock room, comes back with 6 qts. of Castrol GLX 507. rated oil. See what I'm trying to say here about NOT trusting in a dealership to do your work right "especially" if there's nothing wrong or any symptoms? Could just end up sincerely regretting having the work done if there's no symptoms. I have been driving for about 47 years, bought many dozens of new and used cars from Corvair to Corvette, Viper and 911 Porsche and one thing I know is all the cars built today is a huge improvement over the older cars built, but the technology is more complicated than ever and the skilled technicians are even less or not trained right or just don't give a crap about doing something right. My GT500 is totally stock and I would love to put some hi perf. mods on it, but then other compensations have to be made for the added power and the warranty is out the window. Even some of the simple hi perf. mods have caused problems according to what I have read on this board and others. Sorry to be long but I've been around a long time with cars and dealerships and on the TSB to "each is own" and that's a decision that everyone has to make for themselves and possibly live with the consequenses. Steve AZ. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mullens Posted May 24, 2009 Report Share Posted May 24, 2009 I agree with steve "don't fix it if it ain't broke, and nobody likes their new tranny torn apart. That being said, I'm stuck because even if I wanted it done, no dealers around here will touch it without symptoms. I just don't want to hit 36,001 miles and be on the hook for 5k worth of repairs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NICK82 Posted May 24, 2009 Report Share Posted May 24, 2009 36,000 miles wouldn't be bad actually, i'm pretty sure that most exotic-like sports cars have to have the clutch replaced around then apart from Porsche. Ride it out, if it brakes, put in a Spec Clutch and be done with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcthorne Posted May 24, 2009 Report Share Posted May 24, 2009 What does a good aftermarket clutch and flywheel cost to have installed in the GT500? I ask, because if the dollar amount is something I can stomach, I may not pursue having the TSB performed unless signs become more apparent. My car is an '08 with some of the running changes, and it may never warp the flywheel the way I drive. I hate to take any risk with dealer errors, etc... I am at 19k now and still fine on my Job1 2007. I am with you on the dealer experience thing and really do not want them messing with the car. Anyone know how many miles/years ford will cover this repair? was it just the 3/36 factory warranty? If its longer, I'll likely not mess with it until/if it fails. If its 3/36 I'll likely persue this in november before my warranty expires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rarecat Posted May 24, 2009 Report Share Posted May 24, 2009 I'm in the same boat and have pretty much decided to ride it out and not force the issue. I've got 4K on my early 08 and do not have any issues. I don't race, commute or deal with heavy stop & go traffic in mine. I realize it's a roll of the dice on whether or not I'll have an issue, but I'm in no hurry to have someone tear my tranny apart either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ingram4868 Posted May 24, 2009 Report Share Posted May 24, 2009 Mine shows no sign of issues either and the local dealer won't do any repairs unless the tech can confirm one of the problem areas. It is not a comfortable position to force us to be into. So I keep my cellphone and AAA tow card with me at all times while in the GT500. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skyhighsd Posted May 25, 2009 Report Share Posted May 25, 2009 I'm in the same boat and have pretty much decided to ride it out and not force the issue. I've got 4K on my early 08 and do not have any issues. I don't race, commute or deal with heavy stop & go traffic in mine. I realize it's a roll of the dice on whether or not I'll have an issue, but I'm in no hurry to have someone tear my tranny apart either. I am in the same boat, if I can even find a dealer that will touch my car with all of my mods. But I figure that will be reason to put the auto in that I have been thinking about......lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SVTpower Posted May 25, 2009 Report Share Posted May 25, 2009 SAme boat as you..........I read every TSB post out there and we're probably at 50% whereby it is either the same or worst. Sorry, going to order my Spec clutch/flywheel soon and I'll be ready. Hate dealers and most don't give 2 craps. I figure in my Can $$$, $2200-$2500 tops with labour which will include the $1600 u.s. Spec kit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gerry Chase 1128 Posted May 25, 2009 Report Share Posted May 25, 2009 We just put over 25k on the factory clutch. It is a mid November 2006 build with TVS, 3.73's, and FRPP short throw. It's been raced hard on the drag strip (only 12 passes) and the road course (approximately 130 miles) and no problems except replaced one set of brake pads. Iceman has beat on his October 2006 built GT500 down the strip more times than you would think any clutch or flywheel would last and has had no problems. When we were at Larry H Miller Motorsports Park, some of Ford's engineers were testing some new FRPP parts. The conversation came up about the clutch and flywheel issue and the majority opinion was that the primary cause of failure was riding the clutch at too high of RPM's. It's best to be engaged or disengaged with as little time as possible between the two positions. I witnessed this firsthand with a gentlemen and his new SuperSnake. He was doing a burnout, hitting the rev limiter, and riding the clutch and sure enough he smoked it right on the spot and probably didn't have 5k on the car. I'm not saying there aren't some legitimate claims out there, however one should consider how many of these are due to poor driving habits. Of course after having said this, I'll probably smoke mine tomorrow. I'll let you know when it goes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlloyDropTop Posted May 26, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2009 We just put over 25k on the factory clutch. It is a mid November 2006 build with TVS, 3.73's, and FRPP short throw. It's been raced hard on the drag strip (only 12 passes) and the road course (approximately 130 miles) and no problems except replaced one set of brake pads. Iceman has beat on his October 2006 built GT500 down the strip more times than you would think any clutch or flywheel would last and has had no problems. When we were at Larry H Miller Motorsports Park, some of Ford's engineers were testing some new FRPP parts. The conversation came up about the clutch and flywheel issue and the majority opinion was that the primary cause of failure was riding the clutch at too high of RPM's. It's best to be engaged or disengaged with as little time as possible between the two positions. I witnessed this firsthand with a gentlemen and his new SuperSnake. He was doing a burnout, hitting the rev limiter, and riding the clutch and sure enough he smoked it right on the spot and probably didn't have 5k on the car. I'm not saying there aren't some legitimate claims out there, however one should consider how many of these are due to poor driving habits. Of course after having said this, I'll probably smoke mine tomorrow. I'll let you know when it goes. I am very careful not to slip this clutch at all (or extreme minimum). I never even get the shudder anymore, now that I have learned how to quickly engage / disengage this clutch. I don't even know how mine could warp, because it can't possibly get hot the way I quickly engage and disengage it. I rev match down shifts, so very little difference in engine / tranny speed, too. I am wondering it the warping flywheel is at all accumulative, or if these have all warped in a single "event". One time that slipped it enough to overheat, etc... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
svt boost Posted May 26, 2009 Report Share Posted May 26, 2009 I feel conflicted too; 2007 gt500 (may 07) 13.5K miles, and I have the hiss with pedal in, but no other problems. Really never any stop and go (except the odd weekend in LA), and rarely drive the car right now. I took it in, but the dealer couldn't reproduce the symptoms, basically they couldn't hear it because the dealer is open bay. Do I take it in and push the issue, or ride it our knowing I will likely never have any problems? Stinks--and I will be going overseas for 10 months, so no driving then, and when I get back only 6 months left of warranty... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mullens Posted May 26, 2009 Report Share Posted May 26, 2009 I feel conflicted too; 2007 gt500 (may 07) 13.5K miles, and I have the hiss with pedal in, but no other problems. Really never any stop and go (except the odd weekend in LA), and rarely drive the car right now. I took it in, but the dealer couldn't reproduce the symptoms, basically they couldn't hear it because the dealer is open bay. Do I take it in and push the issue, or ride it our knowing I will likely never have any problems? Stinks--and I will be going overseas for 10 months, so no driving then, and when I get back only 6 months left of warranty... Hiss is normal. Chatter is normal, especially with the A/C on. If that's all you have you're in good shape. The time to worry is when the car creeps with the clutch fully depressed and/or grinds in gear. That's the TSB. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seahorse Posted May 26, 2009 Report Share Posted May 26, 2009 I know this TSB is the big bad boogeyman hiding in every GT500 owner's closet, but I really don't see the point in worrying about it until there's an actual problem . In the mean time, just drive it and enjoy it. I'm at 5k miles on mine now (in a couple months of ownership) and it drives just fine, and it gets driven hard on a daily basis. When...if...it breaks, I'll bring it in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
svt boost Posted May 26, 2009 Report Share Posted May 26, 2009 Hiss is normal. Chatter is normal, especially with the A/C on. If that's all you have you're in good shape. The time to worry is when the car creeps with the clutch fully depressed and/or grinds in gear. That's the TSB. Hiss with the clutch in (ie fully depressed) is not normal, and is one of the earliest signs indicating need to complete the TSB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mullens Posted May 26, 2009 Report Share Posted May 26, 2009 Hiss with the clutch in (ie fully depressed) is not normal, and is one of the earliest signs indicating need to complete the TSB Didn't know that. I thought Ford's bulletin said all clutch hiss was normal. Maybe just when engaging? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SicShelby Posted May 26, 2009 Report Share Posted May 26, 2009 Didn't know that. I thought Ford's bulletin said all clutch hiss was normal. Maybe just when engaging? Yes, hiss when disengaging/engaging the clutch is normal. Hiss when the clutch is fully depressed means your clutch is dragging... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlloyDropTop Posted May 26, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2009 I know this TSB is the big bad boogeyman hiding in every GT500 owner's closet, but I really don't see the point in worrying about it until there's an actual problem . In the mean time, just drive it and enjoy it. I'm at 5k miles on mine now (in a couple months of ownership) and it drives just fine, and it gets driven hard on a daily basis. When...if...it breaks, I'll bring it in. What if it breaks just out of warranty in a couple of years, and you have to write out a check for $6K? I am not really worried about it, more upset that we all have parts that have been redesigned and Ford won't replace the poorly designed stuff unless it breaks. Problem is, it may not break under warranty, and then it is our problem. It would be one thing if it was wear, etc... but it is faulty design and when it goes, it goes big. Some failed at super low miles, some will fail in warranty, and most certainly some will fail out of warranty..... I really don't think it is wrong to expect a company that builds a product to step up when they realize that teh original design can't handle a very common driving situation of stop and go traffic. Step up and fix these things on demand. It would actually save money in many cases, if they would fix it prior to signs, as the tranny / synchro portion could be avoided, I would think.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuckstang Posted May 29, 2009 Report Share Posted May 29, 2009 Quick question, what exactly does slipping the clutch mean? Second, I have noticed this since day one, when I shift very aggressively through say multiple gears and then get off of it and slow down then shift again, the clutch pedal does have a little bit different feel. I actually used to notice this feel with my old mustangs as well. Is it just normal from the heat of the motor, am I not shifting problem. I am talking about speed shifting, but really can only notice a difference when I am on the highway and can bang through a couple gears and then when I go back to normal driving the next 1 or 2 shifts, the pedal feels a bit funny. Anyone? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaker281 Posted May 29, 2009 Report Share Posted May 29, 2009 Quick question, what exactly does slipping the clutch mean? Second, I have noticed this since day one, when I shift very aggressively through say multiple gears and then get off of it and slow down then shift again, the clutch pedal does have a little bit different feel. I actually used to notice this feel with my old mustangs as well. Is it just normal from the heat of the motor, am I not shifting problem. I am talking about speed shifting, but really can only notice a difference when I am on the highway and can bang through a couple gears and then when I go back to normal driving the next 1 or 2 shifts, the pedal feels a bit funny. Anyone? That doesn't sound like clutch slippage. On the previous gen Mustangs that would have been due to issues with the clutch cable/clutch quadrant. Since ours are hydraulic, that does not really apply here. But air in the hydraulic lines would cause something like you describe. Or an overheating clutch. If your clutch is slipping and you put it in a higher gear (i.e. 4th and up), then press the throttle, the revs will go up and the car will not speed up. That is typical of clutch slippage. When the clutch completely goes you may not be able to engage any gears or it may slip so bad you cannot get going. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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