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Wheel Hop


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I have an 07 gt500 conv. and in cold weather it wheel hops so bad you would think the rear axle is coming off, now in warmer weather the wheel hop is gone. So my question is are aftermarket control arms needed or is this a tire and or shock problem ?

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Yes, sad but true. It's been well documented on this site.

 

Most everyone that simply want to get rid of the wheel hop do a couple things.

 

My 07 vert handles much better, is a good ride and is much tamer under hard acceleration.

 

I put BMR LCAs, an adjustable panhard bar (because of the lower springs) and Steeda springs for the vert. ( Yes they are specific for verts)

 

They work well, and it looks great as well.

 

Shelby-May-08-013.jpg

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I believe 50% of the cause is the fat, squishy upper control arm bushing that you can see through (see pics) and the other 50% is the 4 lower control arm bushings. I replaced mine with polyurethane which stopped the wheelhop.

 

IMG_1621.jpg

 

 

IMG_1622.jpg

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I believe 50% of the cause is the fat, squishy upper control arm bushing that you can see through (see pics) and the other 50% is the 4 lower control arm bushings. I replaced mine with polyurethane which stopped the wheelhop.

 

IMG_1621.jpg

 

 

IMG_1622.jpg

Whose kit did use ?

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Just put Nitto drag radials on the rear; 305 35 20.

Seems to have done the trick, but I haven't gottne on it REALLY hard out of the hole.

Doesn;t break loose in second when the SC kicks in either like it used to.

Just my .02 worth.

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Riddle me this one Batman, I also replaced the LCA's with the BMR LCA's. It helped but did not eliminate the Wheel Hop. That was last year. This year I swapped out the original wheels with Chrome aftermarket wheels. The Wheel Hop is gone. I mean gone !!

 

What the Hell (Not that I'm complaining) could be the difference ??

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Riddle me this one Batman, I also replaced the LCA's with the BMR LCA's. It helped but did not eliminate the Wheel Hop. That was last year. This year I swapped out the original wheels with Chrome aftermarket wheels. The Wheel Hop is gone. I mean gone !!

 

What the Hell (Not that I'm complaining) could be the difference ??

Are the wheels heavier than the originals? Did you use different tires?

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I believe 50% of the cause is the fat, squishy upper control arm bushing that you can see through (see pics) and the other 50% is the 4 lower control arm bushings. I replaced mine with polyurethane which stopped the wheelhop.

 

 

Thanks...that's the route i'm going to take.

That, and rear springs to lower the rear a bit.

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I had wheel hop the first time I drove it. A couple of burn outs and warmer weather and the hop is gone forever.

:headscratch:

 

 

Thanks...that's the route i'm going to take.

That, and rear springs to lower the rear a bit.

:happy feet:

 

If you're lowering the car, do that first to check if you'll need the pinion angle adjusted as there may be a vibration from the driveshaft. Because if you do, you'll need an adjustable upper control arm.

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Just put Nitto drag radials on the rear; 305 35 20.

Seems to have done the trick, but I haven't gottne on it REALLY hard out of the hole.

Doesn;t break loose in second when the SC kicks in either like it used to.

Just my .02 worth.

 

I agree about the Nittos...the only thing I would change is to move to the Nitto 315's if there is enough clearance. I did this with my 03 Cobra and it stopped wheel hop completely. They just cleared the IRS bolt on the 03 by a 1/2 inch. GT500 is live axle so there wouldn't be the same issues but I am not sure if its live-axle presents any other kinds of issue to prevent the use of Nitto 315's.

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On my 08' Vert, I installed the Vert specific Steeda springs and now have ZERO wheel hop......As a point of reference, we retained the stock shocks....

 

We also swithced to 20's at the same time, and frankly the ride is as good or better than stock.

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Replacing the two upper control arm bushings with the prothane bushings did the trick for me

The bushing on top of the differential is tough to get out a hole saw is recommended. I burned out the other one.

You could try just replacing the upper one see how it does. The hop is caused by axle wrap due to high horsepower and squishy bushings installed at the factory to giv a smoother quieter ride. Not conducive to good burnouts.

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Here's the rest of the story. If you lower your car. 1- "Did you loosen all of your suspension bolts and re tighten them" ? . If you didn't, you just put all of your bushings in a bind. Because that's the way they are designed. Center pin doesn't move freely like aftermarket bushings do. 2- "You changed rear LCA angle". So now your car has an extreme amount of rear axle squat. Not anti squat like you need for more traction. Now your car doesn't have near as much traction as it did when stock. Don't believe me. Go out and drag race your car, before and after lowering it. Check your 60 ft times. Your no more wheel hop is because of less traction and suspension bushings are in a bind. In time your OEM bushings will fail prematurely. If you do go racing. You'll be embarrassed of you drag racing times. Some young kid in a Honda will run about the same times as you. Then come over and say "how much HP does your car have. Wow I almost beat a GT500....... :cry:

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Here's the rest of the story. If you lower your car. 1- "Did you loosen all of your suspension bolts and re tighten them" ? . If you didn't, you just put all of your bushings in a bind. Because that's the way they are designed. Center pin doesn't move freely like aftermarket bushings do. 2- "You changed rear LCA angle". So now your car has an extreme amount of rear axle squat. Not anti squat like you need for more traction. Now your car doesn't have near as much traction as it did when stock. Don't believe me. Go out and drag race your car, before and after lowering it. Check your 60 ft times. Your no more wheel hop is because of less traction and suspension bushings are in a bind. In time your OEM bushings will fail prematurely. If you do go racing. You'll be embarrassed of you drag racing times. Some young kid in a Honda will run about the same times as you. Then come over and say "how much HP does your car have. Wow I almost beat a GT500....... :cry:

+1

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Here's the rest of the story. If you lower your car. 1- "Did you loosen all of your suspension bolts and re tighten them" ? . If you didn't, you just put all of your bushings in a bind. Because that's the way they are designed. Center pin doesn't move freely like aftermarket bushings do. 2- "You changed rear LCA angle". So now your car has an extreme amount of rear axle squat. Not anti squat like you need for more traction. Now your car doesn't have near as much traction as it did when stock. Don't believe me. Go out and drag race your car, before and after lowering it. Check your 60 ft times. Your no more wheel hop is because of less traction and suspension bushings are in a bind. In time your OEM bushings will fail prematurely. If you do go racing. You'll be embarrassed of you drag racing times. Some young kid in a Honda will run about the same times as you. Then come over and say "how much HP does your car have. Wow I almost beat a GT500....... :cry:

 

Make a prediction for my 60' and 1/4 time and mph

 

I will be going to New England dragway soon and will be my first with this car.

 

Just curious of your predictions with the mods in my sig.

 

Here is my guess, 12.8-13.2 and a 2.0 60' and 114 traps

 

:D

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How bad was the install?

PM sent.

 

It is difficult to get the stock bushings out. They recommend burning them out which I did. That was the hardest part. Make sure you have access to big metric (18 & 21mm) 1/2" sockets and wrenches. You don't have to lower the gas tanks that some say to do. You can do it in one weekend with jackstands and a good jack. If you have the money and want to get the job done much quicker, I recommend buying new control arms with the good bushings in them so all you have to do is replace the arms for a much simpler job. I replaced only the bushings to eliminate the problem parts, save money and to keep the stock arms on the car. The wheel hop is caused by the squishy stock bushings. My car does not have any more wheel hop.

 

Hope this helps.

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