Our Shelby is in the hospital.

[James Hill]

If it was vapor lock from the fuel line being to close to the exhaust, wouldn't more sgt owners have this problem?

[DDT]

I don't know........Just trying to help...........

[pottydr]

Save yourself a headache, change the fuel filter, 15.00, It needs to be done anyway

[James Hill]

I am at a loss. I can build you a house no problem, but anything beyond changing the oil or tires on a car, forget about it.

[pottydr]

http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=40096

[2007_Shelby_GT]

See, I told you!

 

Thanks Rick!

 

Sam

 

AKA:

[James Hill]

http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=40096

 

 

Thanks for the thread. Fuel filter is at the top of the list. Thanks again.

[68fastback]

I went to a different shop today to try a second opinion. He pulled the codes and everything is ok, but when my wife drove it to work it did the same thing, spit, sputter at higher rpm's. The new shop (not the dealer) was thinking that the mass air might be gummed up. Taking it in on saturday morning. He has a misting spray that he sprays in the cold air intake and it will clean the mas air and the throttle body. I figured at $60 it was cheaper than $200 for new plugs at the dealer. So I will give it a try.

 

Try a can of MAF sensor cleaner -- don't use standard electrical cleaner as some will foul the sensor and require replacement ($$$). Most good auto parts stores will carry it, about $10 but well worth it.

 

...here's a post describing how to use it. BE SURE to remove the MAF tube (or just the sensor if easier -- dunno) before cleaning. DO NOT spray into the CAI -- you don't want to run cleaner thru the engine. Clean the MAF *well away* from the car ...it can damage your paint. -Dan

[2007_Shelby_GT]

Found this, and it has pics!

 

http://www.mylrs.com/blogs/lrs/archive/200...er-install.aspx

 

Sam

 

AKA:

[James Hill]

Try a can of MAF sensor cleaner -- don't use standard electrical cleaner as some will foul the sensor and require replacement ($$$). Most good auto parts stores will carry it, about $10 but well worth it.

 

...here's a post describing how to use it. BE SURE to remove the MAF tube (or just the sensor if easier -- dunno) before cleaning. DO NOT spray into the CAI -- you don't want to run cleaner thru the engine. Clean the MAF *well away* from the car ...it can damage your paint. -Dan

 

 

Thanks. That describes what is happening exactly.

 

I do find it very interesting than I can find out more information from all of you fine Shelby fans here than the Ford can even tell me.

 

Thank you all for the info! :happy feet:

[SGT4265]

You say that the vehicle has about 10k on it, so I have to ask, why are you taking it upon yourself

to fix a problem thats under warranty. This should be Fords headache, not yours. If the dealer

youve taken it to cant resolve the issue, try another dealer. Also, if the "ck eng" light came on,

or was flashing, there has to be a stored code, did they happen to mention what it was. Perhaps

a P03XX or P0316, which would indicate a misfire. It doesnt always lead you to the source, but

its a starting point in your diagnosis. Half the battle in diagnosis is re-creating the sympton, if

the concern is present, they should br ablr to track it down, if they cant, like I said, try another

dealer. Good luck.

[James Hill]

My dealer pulled the codes, and they were clear. I had another shop pull today, and they were clear. Ford tells me to keep driving in the hopes that it will fix itself.

 

The next closest Ford dealer is about 90 miles to the east of my town.

[SGT4265]

My dealer pulled the codes, and they were clear. I had another shop pull today, and they were clear. Ford tells me to keep driving in the hopes that it will fix itself.

 

The next closest Ford dealer is about 90 miles to the east of my town.

 

 

When the light comes on, is flashing, or on steady? Can you make the problem occur all the time?

I can see that another dealer is not a good option, but telling you to "hope it fixes itself" is

unacceptable for the money we paid for these cars. They need to talk with the Techline if theyre

stuck, thats what its there for. Push the issue if you must, they need to satisfy you.

[James Hill]

Yeah, we can make the light come on again, but it only flashes. It spits and sputters over 3000 rpm, but the light comes on at around 80-100 mph, and only flashes.

 

And you are very right. We paid good money for our cars, and willing to bet we take care of them better than most.

[SGT4265]

A flashing CEL, indicates a problem that requires immediate attention, usually a misfire condition.

They want the driver to get it in for service asap, before a possibility of damage to cat. converters,

and a much more costly repair, not to mention the higher emissions output. Bottom line, if the

problems happening on the road test, they should repair it. I have to admit though, I wouldnt risk

my license road testing a customers car at 80-100 mph., they dont pay me enough for that, but if

its happening at 3000 rpm, you should still get a good feel for the concern. Most if not all dealers

have a diagnostic tool called an IDS, Integrated Diagnostic System. Its a laptop scan tool that

performs numerous functions. It can be hooked up while driving, & allow for various tests & also

record findings at the moment the issue occurs. If they know how to use it well, they should be able to capture data & review it. They can also download this info to the Techline for assistance, that

might help.

[DDT]

Sounds like a dyno run diagnostic may be needed???????????

[James Hill]

A flashing CEL, indicates a problem that requires immediate attention, usually a misfire condition.

They want the driver to get it in for service asap, before a possibility of damage to cat. converters,

and a much more costly repair, not to mention the higher emissions output. Bottom line, if the

problems happening on the road test, they should repair it. I have to admit though, I wouldnt risk

my license road testing a customers car at 80-100 mph., they dont pay me enough for that, but if

its happening at 3000 rpm, you should still get a good feel for the concern. Most if not all dealers

have a diagnostic tool called an IDS, Integrated Diagnostic System. Its a laptop scan tool that

performs numerous functions. It can be hooked up while driving, & allow for various tests & also

record findings at the moment the issue occurs. If they know how to use it well, they should be able to capture data & review it. They can also download this info to the Techline for assistance, that

might help.

 

 

Sounds like a dyno run diagnostic may be needed???????????

 

Yes, I am going to bring all of this up. Writing notes down so I don't forget it all.

[SGT4265]

Yes, I am going to bring all of this up. Writing notes down so I don't forget it all.

 

 

I wish you well, let us know how you make out

[James Hill]

I wish you well, let us know how you make out

 

 

Thank you much. I will keep you posted.

[SGT-C0056]

you could also take a video recorder and tape it, then show it to them..if they want to look

[James Hill]

Well, I changed the fuel filter this morning and cleaned the MAF with cleaner from NAPA. It still spits and sputters, but now it does not start till a higher rpm, around 3500. It runs great through second gear. Went and talked to the dealer today and they did use the IDS. We will run this tank of gas through, and then its going back into the dealer. Also taking it to another shop first thing in the morning and getting the entire intake cleaned.

 

This is really starting to bother me.

[AKSHELBY]

Well, I changed the fuel filter this morning and cleaned the MAF with cleaner from NAPA. It still spits and sputters, but now it does not start till a higher rpm, around 3500. It runs great through second gear. Went and talked to the dealer today and they did use the IDS. We will run this tank of gas through, and then its going back into the dealer. Also taking it to another shop first thing in the morning and getting the entire intake cleaned.

 

This is really starting to bother me.

 

 

They can also take a fuel sample and send it out for testing for water...

[sgt1255]

I had and hopefully never again had the same problem. My car would lurch and sputter at all RPM and stall out sometimes at stop signs. I took it into the dealers and they told me that the codes flashing were that the 1-3 and 5-8 cylinders were misfiring and that the air/fuel mapping had problems. They cleared the codes and took it out for a test drive and it happened again. They cleared the codes again and it did not happen again after two test drives. They called me to pick up the car. I picked it up and it drove fine that day. The next day, I was driving and it started sputtering and it stalled again, then the check engine light came on again. I took it back to the dealer and they couldn't figure whats going on. They did a compression check on all cylinder and they checked out. They cleaned the fuel injectors and nothing help becuase they got the check engine light again and it was throwing the same codes. They called the Ford tech and he came to look at me car. [b]Now this is where I am really pissed off. The tech told the dealers that he will not look at the car until it gets back to stock on the engine. The only mod I did to the engine was to place a BBK under pully on. The dealer tried to talk to the tech claiming the the pullys would not cause these codes but the tech was very strict about it.[/b] The dealer cleared the codes again and called me to tell me what happened. I was pissed. I picked up the car again today and I told the dealer if I get the engine light again that I was going to put the stock pullys on and then bring it in. He told me that is OK. Driving to work today, my car stalled again but no check engine light so far. My car has 5100 miles on it. I will see what happens.

 

Good Day

Ken

[SkyDancer]

On the MAA tour, we were very carefull to find the propper gas, 91 or above. Only once we had to use 90 octane, and we used a octane boooster. I told the dealer this, and they thought that the booster would not cause this problem......So, I am not sure what is going on. I am going down to the dealer in the morning. I was thinking possibily the fuel filter or the pump. I just don't know.

 

Any ideas that I could pass along in the morning?

 

 

Booster CAN cause the problem. I had the exact thing happen to me with a 2007 Mustang GT convertible. I had put octane booster in the gas and drove 160 highway miles to my father's funeral. 15 minutes after I had put the octane booster in the car it started to sputter whenever I did plain ordinary acceleration. When I accelerated hard the more the RPMS went up the more it sputtered and popped alot and then would loose power almost to the point of stalling out until I could get it into 5th gear. When I hit 5th gear the engine would smooth out completely. I had to drive it in this condition for three days.

 

When I drove back home I immediately went into the dealer after I emptied the tank completely out and put new gas. And BTW it still did it even with new gas. The dealer mechanic said the octane boost likely wouldn't cause the problem. I insisted that they replace all the spark plugs which he then did. And that was all he did. The plugs that they pulled were either a light orange or a deep sandy red....it was a mix of those two colors. Once the new plugs were in she fired up perfect and I never had a problem after that.

 

This was the second Mustang that this happened to after putting in Octane boost. I had an 03 Cobra that did the same exact thing as well. After having this happen twice to me using Octane boost I just laugh when I hear anyone say "octane ain't the cause of the problem".

 

Get you plugs changed immediately!

[blueone]

Booster CAN cause the problem. I had the exact thing happen to me with a 2007 Mustang GT convertible. I had put octane booster in the gas and drove 160 highway miles to my father's funeral. 15 minutes after I had put the octane booster in the car it started to sputter whenever I did plain ordinary acceleration. When I accelerated hard the more the RPMS went up the more it sputtered and popped alot and then would loose power almost to the point of stalling out until I could get it into 5th gear. When I hit 5th gear the engine would smooth out completely. I had to drive it in this condition for three days.

 

When I drove back home I immediately went into the dealer after I emptied the tank completely out and put new gas. And BTW it still did it even with new gas. The dealer mechanic said the octane boost likely wouldn't cause the problem. I insisted that they replace all the spark plugs which he then did. And that was all he did. The plugs that they pulled were either a light orange or a deep sandy red....it was a mix of those two colors. Once the new plugs were in she fired up perfect and I never had a problem after that.

 

This was the second Mustang that this happened to after putting in Octane boost. I had an 03 Cobra that did the same exact thing as well. After having this happen twice to me using Octane boost I just laugh when I hear anyone say "octane ain't the cause of the problem".

 

Get you plugs changed immediately!

 

You are exactly right! Just got through changing my plugs and it fixed it . I was also told by the dealer that booster would not cause this problem and that the plugs were fine. This was right before my s/c install and the plugs were changed with the install so I did not persue it any farther. The problem with the dealer is that they can not test beyond 2000 rpms and the problems start at higher rpms under load so they don't what the problem is. The reason I installed the booster post the s/c install was that the pump was defective and I could not varify that I pushed the 93 button and I let it eat at me until I added 104+ booster, Bad call! Dancer is right, it is bad plugs resulting from adding booster. Changing the plugs with the K/B installed is not a walk in the park. I will never add any kind of fuel additives at all ever. This all happened after burning about a 1/2 tank with the booster added

 

Old plugs

 

[SkyDancer]

You are exactly right! Just got through changing my plugs and it fixed it . I was also told by the dealer that booster would not cause this problem and that the plugs were fine. This was right before my s/c install and the plugs were changed with the install so I did not persue it any farther. The problem with the dealer is that they can not test beyond 2000 rpms and the problems start at higher rpms under load so they don't what the problem is. The reason I installed the booster post the s/c install was that the pump was defective and I could not varify that I pushed the 93 button and I let it eat at me until I added 104+ booster, Bad call! Dancer is right, it is bad plugs resulting from adding booster. Changing the plugs with the K/B installed is not a walk in the park. I will never add any kind of fuel additives at all ever. This all happened after burning about a 1/2 tank with the booster added

 

Old plugs

 

 

WOW...those looked even worse than mine. Perhaps since mine were all highway miles in mostly 5th gear is teh reason mine were not as burned and fouled as yours are. Good to hear you are back up and running!. I always wondered though if there was any residual damage done to the cylinder walls or rings from all the banging. It never had any residual issues or sounds once I changed the plugs but it was always on my mind from that point forward until I sold the car off.

[James Hill]

WOW, WOW, WOW!!!

We are SHOCKED not to mention PISSED to find out that it was deffinitely the octane boost as the cause!

We believed that the boost would compensate for any lower quality gas we were forced to get (tiny town--one station open--fuel tank low)

NEVER thought it would harm her.

We are on the way down to get new plugs TODAY. One question though, we heard that these plugs require a special size socket--totally not sure what that would be, also does anyone have a recommendation of plug brand??

THANK YOU SO MUCH for everyones help. Will let you know how it turns out.

[blueone]

WOW, WOW, WOW!!!

We are SHOCKED not to mention PISSED to find out that it was deffinitely the octane boost as the cause!

We believed that the boost would compensate for any lower quality gas we were forced to get (tiny town--one station open--fuel tank low)

NEVER thought it would harm her.

We are on the way down to get new plugs TODAY. One question though, we heard that these plugs require a special size socket--totally not sure what that would be, also does anyone have a recommendation of plug brand??

THANK YOU SO MUCH for everyones help. Will let you know how it turns out.

 

I used Autolite HT0 which is a colder plug because of the s/c and the only place that has them in stock is Summit racing. Most parts stores stock the Autolite HT1 which will work fine in a NA car. The socket is 9/16"

 

Jeff

[James Hill]

Are those the same that is original to the car?

[blueone]

Are those the same that is original to the car?

 

Motorcraft Platinum PZT 1F 7H are original to the car.