kahmann Posted April 11, 2009 Report Share Posted April 11, 2009 I've replaced every component of the suspension on my 66 Mustang, then a month or so later I put the new wheels/tires on, and put the car on the ground for the 1st time in a long time. Much to my surprise, the bottom of the fender wells sat several inches above the top of the front tires. I've tried everything that I've been told to try and nothing has helped. It looks ridiculous. I've loosened every nut and bolt on the spindles, lower arms, upper arms, strut rods, sway bar, etc, lifted the car, lowered the car, rolled the car, and nothing has helped. Some people are telling me that I should try cutting the springs. The thing is that these new springs are lowering coils. I also installed the Shelby negative roll kit, which required me to drill new holes an inch or two lower in the shock towers for the upper arm bolts. Those 2 things combined should have LOWERED the front end a couple inches from stock, yet still the front sits way higher than stock. The arms are new tubular arms from Global West. The springs are new, the bushings and saddles are new and poly, the sway bar is new and bigger, and on and on. I'm not sure what other info I could relay that would help someone figure out my problem. Now that the weather's nice, I really want to get this thing finished and it's almost there. The ride height problem, however, has been killing me for a couple of months now! Any help or insight would be awesome. Ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
socalwrench Posted April 11, 2009 Report Share Posted April 11, 2009 Could be two things: The spindle could be too low (the mounting point is moved lower). Thus, it would raise the car. Or, the spring rate is much higher than before. Remember that most 'street' springs compress several inches when installed due to the weight of the car. If you increased the spring rate (lb/in), then the spring will not sit near as low. While cutting the spring will decrease it's free height (un-installed), it will also increase it's spring rate (less active coils). You may be able to lower the car to your liking simply by cutting it with a "cut-off" wheel or grinder with a cutting disc. Just take your time and keep the spring cool. One last note. Just because a spring is supposedly a "lowering" spring- doesn't mean it will actually lower your classic Mustang. Considering how many years your old springs may have been used- the lowering spring may actually raise or maintain your current ride height. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devildog350 Posted April 11, 2009 Report Share Posted April 11, 2009 I've replaced every component of the suspension on my 66 Mustang, then a month or so later I put the new wheels/tires on, and put the car on the ground for the 1st time in a long time.Much to my surprise, the bottom of the fender wells sat several inches above the top of the front tires. I've tried everything that I've been told to try and nothing has helped. It looks ridiculous. I've loosened every nut and bolt on the spindles, lower arms, upper arms, strut rods, sway bar, etc, lifted the car, lowered the car, rolled the car, and nothing has helped. Some people are telling me that I should try cutting the springs. The thing is that these new springs are lowering coils. I also installed the Shelby negative roll kit, which required me to drill new holes an inch or two lower in the shock towers for the upper arm bolts. Those 2 things combined should have LOWERED the front end a couple inches from stock, yet still the front sits way higher than stock. The arms are new tubular arms from Global West. The springs are new, the bushings and saddles are new and poly, the sway bar is new and bigger, and on and on. I'm not sure what other info I could relay that would help someone figure out my problem. Now that the weather's nice, I really want to get this thing finished and it's almost there. The ride height problem, however, has been killing me for a couple of months now! Any help or insight would be awesome. Ken Make sure the spring saddle is reversed from stock, it needs to be turned 180 deg. All Global West A arms require it. Also check static spring height, should be at or around 10 1/2 inches. when car is set on the ground, it needs to be rolled forward and backwards a few times to settle springs. Some times you have to cut, if you do, just cut 1/4 of the coil at a time, that would drop the height of the spring about 1/2 inch, but it also increases spring rate. Ive been running Global West on my 65 R model race car for 15 years, you should like the results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kahmann Posted April 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2009 Thanks for helpful responses guys. I did make sure that the saddles were reversed and I've rolled this thing all over the place trying to settle the springs out. I'd need to cut more than 2 full coils to lower it as much as it needs to be, using your calculation. I'm really thinking that something is wrong with the way I installed it. I'll keep monkeying with it and let you all know how it goes! In the meantime, keep the suggestions coming. I need all the help I can get. Ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shel-b001 Posted April 11, 2009 Report Share Posted April 11, 2009 Whats your distance from the center of your spindle to the center of the A arm connection looks to be alot in the photo but that could be from the angle you took it not sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
socalwrench Posted April 11, 2009 Report Share Posted April 11, 2009 I would advise not to cut more than 1 COIL at a time. You can always cut more, but you can't weld the spring back together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devildog350 Posted April 11, 2009 Report Share Posted April 11, 2009 Thanks for helpful responses guys. I did make sure that the saddles were reversed and I've rolled this thing all over the place trying to settle the springs out. I'd need to cut more than 2 full coils to lower it as much as it needs to be, using your calculation. I'm really thinking that something is wrong with the way I installed it. I'll keep monkeying with it and let you all know how it goes! In the meantime, keep the suggestions coming. I need all the help I can get. Ken Did you use the GW templete to drill the holes, or did you use the 1" shelby lowering holes? GW templete is lower than shelbys 1". I dont know about the springs your using, but if i remove the shock, and lower the A arm, i can remove the spring with no problem or load on it. I use the ones from Branda, the shelby 1" lower, ive never had to cut more than 1/4 coil on any. Cobra automotive also has the proper coils. I think the springs you got may be too long. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kahmann Posted April 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2009 Did you use the GW templete to drill the holes, or did you use the 1" shelby lowering holes? GW templete is lower than shelbys 1". I dont know about the springs your using, but if i remove the shock, and lower the A arm, i can remove the spring with no problem or load on it. I use the ones from Branda, the shelby 1" lower, ive never had to cut more than 1/4 coil on any. Cobra automotive also has the proper coils. I think the springs you got may be too long. I used the GW template for the upper arm bolt holes. The springs are Year One, but I got them from a local Mustang shop. I've talked to my parts guy a few times about this and he's assured me that the springs are correct for my car. I think you might be right though. It's probably worth the hassle at this point to swap these out for a different brand from a different shop and see where it sits. I had to load these things pretty hard to get them installed in the first place and I absolutely cannot remove by hand. Thanks for the PM. I'll definitely give you a call. Ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kahmann Posted April 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2009 Whats your distance from the center of your spindle to the center of the A arm connection looks to be alot in the photo but that could be from the angle you took it not sure. Where the A arm bolts to the spindle or to the frame of the car? That photo is kind of a goofy angle, you're right. Ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BA Mustang Posted April 15, 2009 Report Share Posted April 15, 2009 You have to let the coil settle and then it will lower itself. If you have already done this, then it is time to start cutting coils. What kind of height are you trying to get? Tires in wheel well, tires just under wheel well? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kahmann Posted April 15, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2009 You have to let the coil settle and then it will lower itself. If you have already done this, then it is time to start cutting coils. What kind of height are you trying to get? Tires in wheel well, tires just under wheel well? It's sat on the new suspension for months. I'd like the wells to sit almost flush with the top of the tires. I've got about 4-5" to go. Ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BA Mustang Posted April 16, 2009 Report Share Posted April 16, 2009 Usually need to drive it to make them settle. That might be one reason they are so high up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kahmann Posted April 16, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2009 Usually need to drive it to make them settle. That might be one reason they are so high up. It's been months. It's nearly 1/2 foot up in the front. I've rolled it around tons of times. I don't think they're settling anymore than they already have. Ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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