ColdwaterHotrod Posted November 20, 2006 Report Share Posted November 20, 2006 I found this sticker in my door jam & it might expain at least why I can't get hooked up right now in this cold weather. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grabber Posted November 20, 2006 Report Share Posted November 20, 2006 I found this sticker in my door jam & it might expain at least why I can't get hooked up right now in this cold weather. CHW, Isn't the quickest starts achieved with little to no tire spin. Isn't that the goal ? Is all this wheel hop talk due to wanting to just smoke the livin heck out of your tires ? I quess, what I am asking is this: Am I only going to have this problem when I want to show off a plume of burnt rubber ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ColdwaterHotrod Posted November 20, 2006 Report Share Posted November 20, 2006 CHW, Isn't the quickest starts achieved with little to no tire spin. Isn't that the goal ? Is all this wheel hop talk due to wanting to just smoke the livin heck out of your tires ? I quess, what I am asking is this: Am I only going to have this problem when I want to showm off a plume of burnt rubber ? I have the problem just trying to launch it in the quarter mile w/o spin off the line or even from a rolling start. It's making so much HP that it breaks loose with wheel hop at about 3800-4000 rpm's or the 60' mark. But again it's 35 to 45 degrees each time I try it. How about those who are in warmer weather? Same problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratnacage Posted November 20, 2006 Report Share Posted November 20, 2006 I didn't answer because I don't know. I just know that everyone is TALKING about wheel hop, but no one has done anything about it that I can see. Many have suggested a new upper control arm that's adjustable...but I don't know of anyone who's actually tried this. BMR (and others) make such a device. Dave I put a Steeda upper control arm on mine (not a GT500, just a GT, but essentially the same thing). No more wheel hop. :beatdeadhorse: You guys are talking about crazy solutions like adjusting tire pressue - just spend the couple hundred $$ on the adjustable upper control arm and your problem will go away. Geez, you've already spent $45k - $70k on the car, what's another $400? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captainbob Posted November 20, 2006 Report Share Posted November 20, 2006 I put a Steeda upper control arm on mine (not a GT500, just a GT, but essentially the same thing). No more wheel hop. :beatdeadhorse: You guys are talking about crazy solutions like adjusting tire pressue - just spend the couple hundred $$ on the adjustable upper control arm and your problem will go away. Geez, you've already spent $45k - $70k on the car, what's another $400? How much adjusting does it need?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratnacage Posted November 20, 2006 Report Share Posted November 20, 2006 How much adjusting does it need?? Probably doesn't need much adjusting if any. The adjustable part just lets them fine tune the pinion angle. The real benefit is in the stiffer bushings which prevent excessive counter-rotation of the axle housing ("third member") during hard launches. The counter-rotation isn't alot, but it's enough to upset the drive train geometry enough to cause the wheel hop problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captainbob Posted November 20, 2006 Report Share Posted November 20, 2006 Probably doesn't need much adjusting if any. The adjustable part just lets them fine tune the pinion angle. The real benefit is in the stiffer bushings which prevent excessive counter-rotation of the axle housing ("third member") during hard launches. The counter-rotation isn't alot, but it's enough to upset the drive train geometry enough to cause the wheel hop problem. Ok.. Definetly a must!! Can't handle the hop.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alloy Dave Posted November 20, 2006 Report Share Posted November 20, 2006 I put a Steeda upper control arm on mine (not a GT500, just a GT, but essentially the same thing). No more wheel hop. :beatdeadhorse: You guys are talking about crazy solutions like adjusting tire pressue - just spend the couple hundred $$ on the adjustable upper control arm and your problem will go away. Geez, you've already spent $45k - $70k on the car, what's another $400? Ah ha...that's what we need...more confirmation...thanks rat. I will be buying the UCA. And no, not just so I can do burnouts..but because sometimes even though you don't TRY to burnout...it just happens. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
svtbird91 Posted November 20, 2006 Report Share Posted November 20, 2006 How much adjusting does it need?? The reason for the adjustability is when or if you lower the car it gives you the ability to maintain proper pinion angle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VNMOUS1 Posted November 20, 2006 Report Share Posted November 20, 2006 I found this sticker in my door jam & it might expain at least why I can't get hooked up right now in this cold weather. There is no possible way you can launch....or even punch it from a rolling start...without wheel hop that begins with the slightest imperfection in the road surface (when the air temp is below 45f with those tires). These F1s are much worse than the older compound and tread design on my 2003 C5. This compound is very soft and hardens like Play-Doh in a freezer when the weather is cold. It doesn't matter how much you drive on them, they won't warm up (I just tried it for 90 miles Saturday and they still had to warm up before a dyno run indoors!) Pirelli P-Zero Nero M+S (all weather, not mud buggy) work well and come in exactly your sizes. They're about the only thing that does in a premium brand. Around 200 each at Tire Rack. Assume you'll use your stock wheels because anything aftermarket (smaller) is a PITA when it comes to front brake clearance. Save your tread and the beating on your driveline and stay out of it til you (a) buy tires that work or (B) the frost goes away in May. bj Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mastersmech1 Posted November 20, 2006 Report Share Posted November 20, 2006 I put a Steeda upper control arm on mine (not a GT500, just a GT, but essentially the same thing). No more wheel hop. :beatdeadhorse: You guys are talking about crazy solutions like adjusting tire pressue - just spend the couple hundred $$ on the adjustable upper control arm and your problem will go away. Geez, you've already spent $45k - $70k on the car, what's another $400? Thank you. At first I didn't feel like it was worth addressing, however the more I drive the more it needs something to calm down the dreaded wheel hop. :happy feet: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grabber Posted November 20, 2006 Report Share Posted November 20, 2006 I put a Steeda upper control arm on mine (not a GT500, just a GT, but essentially the same thing). No more wheel hop. What is the part number for this Steeda upper control arm ? I am making Christmas list ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mastersmech1 Posted November 20, 2006 Report Share Posted November 20, 2006 What is the part number for this Steeda upper control arm ? I am making Christmas list ! +1 :hyper: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captainbob Posted November 20, 2006 Report Share Posted November 20, 2006 There is no possible way you can launch....or even punch it from a rolling start...without wheel hop that begins with the slightest imperfection in the road surface (when the air temp is below 45f with those tires). These F1s are much worse than the older compound and tread design on my 2003 C5. This compound is very soft and hardens like Play-Doh in a freezer when the weather is cold. It doesn't matter how much you drive on them, they won't warm up (I just tried it for 90 miles Saturday and they still had to warm up before a dyno run indoors!) Pirelli P-Zero Nero M+S (all weather, not mud buggy) work well and come in exactly your sizes. They're about the only thing that does in a premium brand. Around 200 each at Tire Rack. Assume you'll use your stock wheels because anything aftermarket (smaller) is a PITA when it comes to front brake clearance. Save your tread and the beating on your driveline and stay out of it til you (a) buy tires that work or (B) the frost goes away in May. bj You know I didn't have any hop with the F1's on my Z06.. I think it's suspension.. Time for a new contol arm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ColdwaterHotrod Posted November 20, 2006 Report Share Posted November 20, 2006 What is the part number for this Steeda upper control arm ? I am making Christmas list ! THIS MIGHT BE IT? http://www.steeda.com/products/adjustable_...control_arm.php Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captainbob Posted November 20, 2006 Report Share Posted November 20, 2006 THIS MIGHT BE IT? http://www.steeda.com/products/adjustable_...control_arm.php +1 :hyper: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grabber Posted November 20, 2006 Report Share Posted November 20, 2006 THIS MIGHT BE IT? http://www.steeda.com/products/adjustable_...control_arm.php Since my car is not due till Q1, I want to hear some feedback on this part from someone who had it installed. It costs $279.95 for part 555-4106. It lists also a Upgrade kit for this part for another $194.95. I wonder if a guy has to by both parts to do the trick of fixing the wheel hop or if part 555-4106 will be all that is needed ? CHW are you getting one ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ColdwaterHotrod Posted November 20, 2006 Report Share Posted November 20, 2006 Since my car is not due till Q1, I want to hear some feedback on this part from someone who had it installed. It costs $279.95 for part 555-4106. It lists also a Upgrade kit for this part for another $194.95. I wonder if a guy has to by both parts to do the trick of fixing the wheel hop or if part 555-4106 will be all that is needed ? CHW are you getting one ? I'm adding it to my Christmas list also, but yes I see it in my future so it saves my car when I Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StangFinally Posted November 20, 2006 Report Share Posted November 20, 2006 I found this sticker in my door jam & it might expain at least why I can't get hooked up right now in this cold weather. I couldn't resist and had the Shelby out one night where it was about 30 deg F... was just like being on ice... no wheel hop, but no traction at all.... talk about sticking the tail out... WITH TC ON! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ColdwaterHotrod Posted November 20, 2006 Report Share Posted November 20, 2006 I couldn't resist and had the Shelby out one night where it was about 30 deg F... was just like being on ice... no wheel hop, but no traction at all.... talk about sticking the tail out... WITH TC ON! When the air temp is that cold the motor (W/Supercharger) can make up to 50 more hp according to a source I know that worked on the GT40 chassis & motor program before he retired. He said it's like a shot of NOS....Oh Yeah! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VNMOUS1 Posted November 20, 2006 Report Share Posted November 20, 2006 You know I didn't have any hop with the F1's on my Z06.. I think it's suspension.. Time for a new contol arm Yes, it IS the suspension, but my point was that it's impossible to NOT spin the stock tires below 45f. I can break them loose at 65mph in 3rd with the TC off (not that I wish to do that too often...but I was curious and there wasn't anyone around). And no, the original F1 Supercar design wasn't this slippery in cold weather. Different compound. bj Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alloy Dave Posted November 21, 2006 Report Share Posted November 21, 2006 THIS MIGHT BE IT? http://www.steeda.com/products/adjustable_...control_arm.php I'm not sure if this is the right one...may have to call BMR...just letting you know there may be multiple options. This one sure looks different than the one CW showed. Scroll down the page about 1/3 of the way. http://www.bmrfabrication.com/2005MustangSUSPENSION.htm Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grabber Posted November 21, 2006 Report Share Posted November 21, 2006 I'm not sure if this is the right one...may have to call BMR...just letting you know there may be multiple options. This one sure looks different than the one CW showed. Scroll down the page about 1/3 of the way. http://www.bmrfabrication.com/2005MustangSUSPENSION.htm Dave Dave, My thinking is this. Everybodys driving habits and uses are different. For example, I will not be taking my car to the track. I seldom will be laying long patches of rubber. When I get my car, and settle in with it, and learn about its handling by driving it, then I will know if this wheel hop issue is a problem that I will need to address. Having said that, if I need to Mod. the susp. I will look to the trusted members on this site for advice on what parts to buy. I am hoping that after the 1st of the year, some of the members will have posted how they addressed this problem, and what works best. What is your plan off attack to this wheel hop concern ? Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
90GT Posted November 21, 2006 Report Share Posted November 21, 2006 Steeda's take on wheel hop and how to cure it: Orlando says the '05 Mustang front suspension is outstanding, but at the rear, wheel-hop can be evident when you start drag racing because of the low durometer bushings. A partial cure is to replace the factory trailing arms with billet versions with either urethane bushings, recommended for the street, or rod ends. To totally eliminate the problem, an adjustable upper link can be added. "The bushing on the differential in stock form is extremely dense, so it's pretty good. But the front bushing is a hydro-bushing, which flexes and contributes to wheel-hop. And for performance purposes, there's not enough pinion angle, especially when you lower the car. You want an adjustable link so you can change the pinion angle." Now I know this is for the standard GT but it can also be applied to the GT500. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grabber Posted November 21, 2006 Report Share Posted November 21, 2006 Steeda's take on wheel hop and how to cure it: Orlando says the '05 Mustang front suspension is outstanding, but at the rear, wheel-hop can be evident when you start drag racing because of the low durometer bushings. A partial cure is to replace the factory trailing arms with billet versions with either urethane bushings, recommended for the street, or rod ends. To totally eliminate the problem, an adjustable upper link can be added. "The bushing on the differential in stock form is extremely dense, so it's pretty good. But the front bushing is a hydro-bushing, which flexes and contributes to wheel-hop. And for performance purposes, there's not enough pinion angle, especially when you lower the car. You want an adjustable link so you can change the pinion angle." Now I know this is for the standard GT but it can also be applied to the GT500. This is good information, and good news for me since I will not be drag racing or lowering the car, it sounds like I will not have a problem. Thanks for the info 90GT :D Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
90GT Posted November 21, 2006 Report Share Posted November 21, 2006 This is good information, and good news for me since I will not be drag racing or lowering the car, it sounds like I will not have a problem. Thanks for the info 90GT :D Rob Glad I could help Rob!!! :happy feet: Here's a link to Steeda's adjustable third link, forgot to put that in my post above. Steeda Adjustable Third Link Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grabber Posted November 21, 2006 Report Share Posted November 21, 2006 Glad I could help Rob!!! :happy feet: Here's a link to Steeda's adjustable third link, forgot to put that in my post above. Steeda Adjustable Third Link Jim Jim, CWH also posted that Steeda part. I printed the sheet and put it in my file for later. The link shows 2 parts. The 2nd part is a "upgrade" kit for the first application? ( and it costs more $ than part 1) This is where one needs to know, do I need both, or can I get the problem fixed with one ? To be honest, It sounds like, with my driving habits, I will not need either of them ! Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alloy Dave Posted November 21, 2006 Report Share Posted November 21, 2006 Dave, What is your plan off attack to this wheel hop concern ? Rob Like you, I won't do any mods immediately. I can explain this best by using a different example. I am a good cook. When I met my wife, she was not. I told her once...whenever you make a recipe for the very first time, do it exactly as the directions say. Then, once you've tasted the "baseline", you can doctor the recipe to suit your tastes. If you start out with a doctored recipe, you never know where you were or whether the direction you went was the correct one. P.S. If anyone wants a good chili recipe, I can post one. Hope that helps. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
90GT Posted November 21, 2006 Report Share Posted November 21, 2006 Jim, CWH also posted that Steeda part. I printed the sheet and put it in my file for later. The link shows 2 parts. The 2nd part is a "upgrade" kit for the first application? ( and it costs more $ than part 1) This is where one needs to know, do I need both, or can I get the problem fixed with one ? To be honest, It sounds like, with my driving habits, I will not need either of them ! Rob You only need the one. The upgrade kit is a competition grade kit, basically it's a heavy duty version for the hard core racer. The base kit should be fine for the street driven car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TAHOE GT Posted November 21, 2006 Report Share Posted November 21, 2006 Jim, CWH also posted that Steeda part. I printed the sheet and put it in my file for later. The link shows 2 parts. The 2nd part is a "upgrade" kit for the first application? ( and it costs more $ than part 1) This is where one needs to know, do I need both, or can I get the problem fixed with one ? To be honest, It sounds like, with my driving habits, I will not need either of them ! Rob Rob, I went with Spohn adj. lower with the rod-end/urethane combo and an adj. upper with rod-end. The lowers did little to cure the wheel hop, but once I put the upper in it all went away. For a street driven car, I would only put in the upper. I also would look at BMR rather than Steeda. You won't need that spiffy bracket, just the uca. edit: I also got some wheel hop when digging hard out of a corner, not just at the track. You may see it show up on the street. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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