ORNGCRSH Posted February 26, 2009 Report Share Posted February 26, 2009 I know that the brakes have to be seasoned, and then, after seasoning, bed the pads. But, does this procedure have to be performed "IMMEDIATELY" after picking the Snake up, or, can I drive the car 30 mies home, (I live 1/2 hour from SAI Vegas), in a civilized fashion, and then on the wekend do the break-in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08 ORANGE SS-725HP Posted February 26, 2009 Report Share Posted February 26, 2009 Drive the car home and then bed the pads over the weekend. No problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vipereatr Posted February 26, 2009 Report Share Posted February 26, 2009 Drive the car home and then bed the pads over the weekend. No problem. How do you bed the pads? I know what it takes to bed... :P but not the pads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ORNGCRSH Posted February 26, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2009 To bed the brakes, you have to season first. I am not an expert on the subject, but I am a fanatic about breaking in all my vehicles. Go to www.baer.com, and there are 2 links. One for seasoning, one for bedding. Very informative. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07SGT4578 Posted February 26, 2009 Report Share Posted February 26, 2009 Seasoning Procedure: Before you begin, please note: The following represents the minimum recommended, “Seasoning” process. If your situation offers any opportunity to perform gentle preliminary “Seasoning” outlined in Step 2 below for a longer period of time, this will generally render even better performance and increase further long-term rotor life. Use the vehicle for 5 to 6 days of gentle driving. Use the brakes to the same extent that you used the stock brakes, DO NOT TEST PERFORMANCE or ATTEMPT HEAVY USE UNTIL ALL ITEMS OUTLINED HAVE BEEN COMPLETED. It is imperative that excessive heat is not put into the rotors at this stage. They need temperature-cycling to relieve the internal stresses. Note: Zinc plated rotors (which are an extra cost option) need a couple of extra days of driving to wear through the plating before “Seasoning” actually will begin. Find a safe location where the brakes can be run to temperature. Your goal is to gradually increase brake temperatures with progressively faster stops. Start by performing four 60 to 70 mph stops, as you would in the normal course of driving. Next, perform four medium effort partial stops (about 50 %) from 60 mph down to 15 mph. Follow this with five minutes of freeway driving with LITTLE to NO BRAKING to allow the rotors to cool. Then, perform four medium-hard effort partial stops (about 75 %) from 60 mph down to 15 mph. Follow this with ten minutes of freeway driving with LITTLE to NO BRAKING to allow the rotors to cool. Park the car and allow the brakes to cool overnight to ambient temperature. You are now 50 % done with the rotor “Seasoning/Bedding” procedure proceed to STEP 4 the following day. Return to the safe location where the brakes can be run to temperature. Make sure the brakes are warmed to full operating temperature and then, perform four medium effort partial stops (about 50 %) from 60 mph down to 15 mph. Follow this with five minutes of freeway driving with LITTLE to NO BRAKING to allow the rotors to cool. Then, perform four medium-hard effort partial stops (about 75 %) from 60 mph down to 15 mph. Follow this with ten minutes of freeway driving with LITTLE to NO BRAKING to allow the rotors to cool. NOW, make six HARD partial stops from 60+ mph down to 15 mph or until rotors have reached an operation temperature of between 900 and 1,100° (Note: Temperature paints to accurately measure rotor temperature may be purchased from Baer Racing). Every effort should be made to perform this procedure without locking a wheel. Follow this with ten minutes of freeway driving with LITTLE to NO BRAKING to allow the rotors to cool. Let the system cool off over night. The rotors are then ready for the next step in Preparing your Brake System: Bedding Pads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07SGT4578 Posted February 26, 2009 Report Share Posted February 26, 2009 Bedding The Pads - (NEVER DRAG the brakes) Note: Never “Bed” pads on rotors, which have not first been “Seasoned.” Always allow a substantial coast down zone when bedding pads that will allow you to safely drive the car to a stop in the event of fade. Perform four-repeated light to medium stops, from 65 to 10 mph, to bring the rotors to temperature. Perform three light stops in succession. Perform eight heavy stops, back to back, at a point just pending wheel lock, from 65 mph to about 5 mph. Drive for ten minutes to create cooling airflow, without using the brakes if at all possible. Perform three light stops in succession. Perform eight heavy stops, back to back, at a point just pending wheel lock, from 65 mph to about 5 mph. Drive for ten minutes to create cooling airflow, without using the brakes if at all possible. Additional Notes: Metallic brake pads – Metallic pads need high temperatures to keep the pad “Bedded”. If you drive the car for a period of time without using the brakes extensively, you may need to “Bed” the pads again. This is not a problem. Simply repeat the procedure. Switching from Carbon Metallic pads to semi-metallic brake pads (not recommended) – When switching from Carbon Metallic pads to semi-metallic brake pads will need to wear through the layer of carbon that the PFC pads have deposited in the rotor surface. The new pads won’t grip well at all, until this layer of carbon is removed. Racers - Racers should “Bed” a few sets of pads at a time. In the event you need to change brake pads during a race, you MUST use a set of “Bedded” pads. Racing on “non-bedded” pads leads to a type of “fade” caused by the binding agents coming out of the pad too quickly. This is called “green fade”. These binders may create a liquid (actually a gas) layer between your pads and rotors. Liquids have a very poor coefficient of friction. This condition is the reason for reverse slotting or cross-drilling rotors, as it allows a pathway for the gasses to escape. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
budweiser Posted February 26, 2009 Report Share Posted February 26, 2009 Thanks for the info on seasoning and bedding the pads. A while back there was info on breaking process in the new gears in the rear end. Any help appreciated. After the long wait I sure want to do it right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ORNGCRSH Posted February 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2009 Check it out.......BAER.COM, Click on TECH, then click on BRAKES 202. I have a feeling that allot of the guys were NOT aware of this. The reason I say this is because I have yet to see any posts on this Forum about breaking in the brakes.Maybe I just missed it. Good Luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knownukes Posted July 4, 2009 Report Share Posted July 4, 2009 Check it out.......BAER.COM, Click on TECH, then click on BRAKES 202.I have a feeling that allot of the guys were NOT aware of this. The reason I say this is because I have yet to see any posts on this Forum about breaking in the brakes.Maybe I just missed it. Good Luck. Why doesn't SAI tell us this? Their focus is on the rear end breakin. My SS gets delivered tomorrow(YEA!!), have you guys who already have your SS's followed this procedure? Has anybody had a broblem with the brakes? I saw a tread a few weeks ago, where someone was complaining about the Bear brakes on the track. Could it be that they were not broken in properly? What experience does anybody have with the Bear Brakes on a road course? I plan on tracking my car and I really expect the Bear brakes to work well. I have the front and rears on mine. btw. the rear end breakin(25 miles and stop for an hour repeatedly), doesn't seem to matchup with the brake seasoning and bedding procedure. You can't do any of the brake steps in 25 miles. thnx to anyone with some real life experience and info. BJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cobrafan Posted July 4, 2009 Report Share Posted July 4, 2009 Why doesn't SAI tell us this? Their focus is on the rear end breakin. My SS gets delivered tomorrow(YEA!!), have you guys who already have your SS's followed this procedure? Has anybody had a broblem with the brakes? I saw a tread a few weeks ago, where someone was complaining about the Bear brakes on the track. Could it be that they were not broken in properly? What experience does anybody have with the Bear Brakes on a road course? I plan on tracking my car and I really expect the Bear brakes to work well. I have the front and rears on mine. btw. the rear end breakin(25 miles and stop for an hour repeatedly), doesn't seem to matchup with the brake seasoning and bedding procedure. You can't do any of the brake steps in 25 miles. thnx to anyone with some real life experience and info. BJ I seasoned my brakes but never bedded them as most of the driving I do is on the street. I had no issues at Hallett for the past two years nor did I have any issues at the Vegas track at the bash. Granted, these are track days and not racing so I'd go the extra step and bed them if I were serious on the track. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knownukes Posted July 5, 2009 Report Share Posted July 5, 2009 I seasoned my brakes but never bedded them as most of the driving I do is on the street. I had no issues at Hallett for the past two years nor did I have any issues at the Vegas track at the bash. Granted, these are track days and not racing so I'd go the extra step and bed them if I were serious on the track. OK. thnx for the info Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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