shel-b001 Posted February 9, 2009 Report Share Posted February 9, 2009 I received both the grill and ducts/lights at the same time. You will have to re-install the grill if you used the original mounting hole. Here is a shot with the lights in. I took it for a test drive in the rain so excuse the water. Looks good nice job ,any pictures of the entire front end? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WildAzCat Posted February 9, 2009 Report Share Posted February 9, 2009 It looks like you used your templates that SPP sent and you followed exactly. Did you have any issues putting the bezels in using the supplied template??? Crucible said he had issues with the fit... Thanks... Great job on them!!! Gary The template was big help and was almost dead on. No question that the bezel is a very tight fit. After you cut out the template I suggest using some school glue and pasting it on like I did. This made cutting with the RotoZip so easy. In the pic I followed the line just inside and had to bore it out a little. On the second light (no pic) I followed the outside of the line and it fit perfect. Shelby001, no pics of the entire front but I will as soon as I clean her up. I did find another SGT with a full frontal shot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2007_Shelby_GT Posted February 10, 2009 Report Share Posted February 10, 2009 I received mine yesterday, probably start installation tonight! Did you wire yours per the instructions? Because these are "driving lights" I want to be able to run high-beams along with them. If you wire into the stock switch, doesn't the micro-relay cut out the driving lights when you hit the high beams? Sam AKA: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goakley1 Posted February 10, 2009 Report Share Posted February 10, 2009 Thanks for the update!!! My kit show's up today and I will do all the work this weekend... Thanks again!!! Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffIsHereToo Posted February 10, 2009 Report Share Posted February 10, 2009 I received mine yesterday, probably start installation tonight! Did you wire yours per the instructions? Because these are "driving lights" I want to be able to run high-beams along with them. If you wire into the stock switch, doesn't the micro-relay cut out the driving lights when you hit the high beams? Sam AKA: Good point! Though to be honest, after driving the vert GTH, these lights are more for looks. They didn't throw much light to be honest. They may however been out of alignment too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2007_Shelby_GT Posted February 10, 2009 Report Share Posted February 10, 2009 Maybe there's a way to bypass the micro-relay and still utilize the factory switch? Anyone? Sam AKA: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffIsHereToo Posted February 10, 2009 Report Share Posted February 10, 2009 Maybe there's a way to bypass the micro-relay and still utilize the factory switch? Anyone? Sam AKA: Mine were just delivered and I just looked at the directions. While it doesn't say you should remove it the diagram shows that the micro-relay is in position 30 on the fuse panel. Nicely highlighted on the diagram. I don't know what the relay does in the big flick so I don't know if it kills the lights if removed or prevents it from activating another relay someplace else. Not sure if the "off" state is open or closed...so I guess I'll experiment! :happy feet: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mywickedshelby Posted February 10, 2009 Report Share Posted February 10, 2009 keep us posted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WildAzCat Posted February 10, 2009 Report Share Posted February 10, 2009 I received mine yesterday, probably start installation tonight! Did you wire yours per the instructions? Because these are "driving lights" I want to be able to run high-beams along with them. If you wire into the stock switch, doesn't the micro-relay cut out the driving lights when you hit the high beams? Sam AKA: Yeah, I did it as instructed. I can't run the driving lights along with the high beams. Not an issue for me... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shel-b001 Posted February 11, 2009 Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 The template was big help and was almost dead on. No question that the bezel is a very tight fit. After you cut out the template I suggest using some school glue and pasting it on like I did. This made cutting with the RotoZip so easy. In the pic I followed the line just inside and had to bore it out a little. On the second light (no pic) I followed the outside of the line and it fit perfect. Shelby001, no pics of the entire front but I will as soon as I clean her up. I did find another SGT with a full frontal shot. Thanks Wow they look `awesome` Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2007_Shelby_GT Posted February 11, 2009 Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 Mine were just delivered and I just looked at the directions. While it doesn't say you should remove it the diagram shows that the micro-relay is in position 30 on the fuse panel. Nicely highlighted on the diagram. I don't know what the relay does in the big flick so I don't know if it kills the lights if removed or prevents it from activating another relay someplace else. Not sure if the "off" state is open or closed...so I guess I'll experiment! :happy feet: Ditto on the "keep us posted"! Maybe just removing it will work, since relays usually switch on/off if they are/aren't receiving power. Hopefully, the case here will be that the relay remains "closed" (without electrical power) until the high beams are activated, at which point the relay receives power and activates and "opens" thereby turning off the driving lights. Just a WAG, it's been a long time since I messed with these things! I didn't get to work on mine tonight - the better half had other plans! Sam AKA: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffIsHereToo Posted February 11, 2009 Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 Ditto on the "keep us posted"! Maybe just removing it will work, since relays usually switch on/off if they are/aren't receiving power. Hopefully, the case here will be that the relay remains "closed" (without electrical power) until the high beams are activated, at which point the relay receives power and activates and "opens" thereby turning off the driving lights. Just a WAG, it's been a long time since I messed with these things! I didn't get to work on mine tonight - the better half had other plans! Sam AKA: You might get to it before me then. I'm not going to bother until it gets warmer and my lower grill comes in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffIsHereToo Posted February 11, 2009 Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 For anyone that has yet to get their, or thinking of getting them, enclosed are the instructions and templates. Handy if you mess up the ones that come with. -Jeff Break_and_Light_Install_Instructions_s.pdf Break_and_Light_Install_Instructions_s.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2007_Shelby_GT Posted February 12, 2009 Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 Bezels in! Only took me about 4 hours - fairly straight forward but definitely not for the faint hearted! I'll try and get to the lights tomorrow. Comments on the install: 1) Templates were a bit off, even though I measured per instructions, they appeared to move the bezel to far outboard by about three-sixteenths of an inch. Probably some slight variations in the front valance. 2) Don't drill the mounting holes until you are able to fit the bezel properly, then hold in place and mark hole locations through the bezel with a sharpie. (see comment 1) 3) If you've already installed your lower grill, guess what? Yes, you need to remove it! I re-installed mine using the inner two bezel bolts. (I didn't, but you may have to modify the ends of the lower grill attachment points to fit around the brake duct bezel.) 4) These things fit pretty tight! I thought at first they were to big, but it just requires a little wiggle here and there. I think there is a slight slant to the valance so that the lower part of the bezel is farther back than the top. 5) Go slow and start small with the holes. The 3.5 inch hole saw is about the same size as the brake duct and about one-quarter inch smaller in diameter than the light bezel. Once these holes are cut - fit and grind, fit and grind, fit and grind! The bezels cover a lot of mis-cues, but if you aren't careful, look out! 6) Most definitely you will need to mask off the area. Double thickness, at least until your through with the hole-saw, then single thickness for the finishing touches. That's about it, I'll post some pics hopefully tomorrow. Sam AKA: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mywickedshelby Posted February 12, 2009 Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 Thanks Jeff. Thanks Sam. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2007_Shelby_GT Posted February 14, 2009 Report Share Posted February 14, 2009 OK, at last the lights are installed and functional! It was a struggle (several hours) and a bit frustrating, (take many breaks or you'll scream terrible curse words and upset your wife, children, and neighbors!), but it's done... Comments on the light install: 1) Someone on the other thread mentioned paying someone to do this entire mod, and I would have to agree. If you can, do it, it will save some agonizing moments! 2) Prepare to be a contortionist in order to mark, drill holes, and install the lights! I strongly suggest getting a lift to raise the car well off the ground! I did it with my Race Ramps - this is workable, but difficult, as I'm not near as flexible as I once was! 3) The included metal template worked as advertised, no problem there. 4) Find the smallest drill motor and shortest drill bits you can! An angle drill would have been ideal - guess I'll have to purchase one next time! I already have three drill motors, and it turned out that my corded one was the smallest. Even then, it barely fit up into the valance and I had to drill the holes from the inboard side! (I had to slide the drill in the space between the lower grill and radiator and pull it toward me!) Someone else mentioned to remove the splash guard that extends from the front of the valance to underneath the radiator. This does help! 5) The included billet mounting bracket is a nice piece, however, there is no instructions or pic on exactly how it bolts up. I ended up with it mounted "outboard in", with the two bolt holes on the outboard side of the frame rail and the slotted light-mounting hole pointing inboard. This centered the slotted hole over the opening in the bezel. (Pics will help, coming soon!) 6) Short, combination wrenches and sockets with ratchet feature are also strongly suggested! On the driver's side it's pretty open, but still very tight up in there! (Passenger side has the windshield-wiper resevoir, among other things, to contend with!) 7) Wiring was straight forward and I pretty much followed the instructions. I clipped off the SGT's OEM connector for the foglight, then wired the white PIAA connector, (off the harness in the PIAA box) to the exposed ends. This snaps directly to the light's wiring and gave me the "quick release" ability discussed in the installation instructions. 8) Instructions mentioned the 15 amp fuse for the fog light may be missing because they sometimes pulled them out as SAI. Mine was gone, so a quick trip to the auto parts store was necessary. I put the fuse in, turned on the lights and NOTHING! Hmmm, checked the high-beams, no not on. Checked the connections again, everything was in place. Ahhh, found it: The ignition must be "on" for the driving lights to function! That's all I've got for now - I'll post a couple of pics today. (It's raining, so I'm not going anywhere!) Sam AKA: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2007_Shelby_GT Posted February 14, 2009 Report Share Posted February 14, 2009 Pics! The underside. A bit out of focus, but note the way the bracket is mounted. Tight squeeze! Wiring. Black to black, white to blue on this side! Fusebox and that pesky fuse! The micro-relay is immediately above and to the left. Driver's side. Not bad for a shade-tree mechanic! If it stops raining, I'll back her out for some "full frontal" shots! Sam AKA: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motorjock205 Posted February 14, 2009 Report Share Posted February 14, 2009 Man, I am so jealous of you guys that are getting these kits right now...I want them so bad, but just can't afford to pull the trigger right now...too worried about keeping my job during this declining economy...hopefully things will get better and SAI will still have a few kits laying around when I can finally afford to do it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2007_Shelby_GT Posted February 14, 2009 Report Share Posted February 14, 2009 Man, I am so jealous of you guys that are getting these kits right now...I want them so bad, but just can't afford to pull the trigger right now...too worried about keeping my job during this declining economy...hopefully things will get better and SAI will still have a few kits laying around when I can finally afford to do it... Full Frontal Shot: Probably my last mod for a bit! Thankfully my job's secure, but the way things are going, I need to sit on my wallet and lock away the credit cards! Let's hope the economy turns around real soon! Sam AKA: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WildAzCat Posted February 14, 2009 Report Share Posted February 14, 2009 That sure finishes off the front end. Congrats on a job well done... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2007_Shelby_GT Posted February 15, 2009 Report Share Posted February 15, 2009 That sure finishes off the front end. Congrats on a job well done... Thanks! Your right, it finishes off the front end and I really think it makes it look even more aggressive than before! Now, if the rain lets up tomorrow I'll take it out for a drive! Sam AKA: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goakley1 Posted February 15, 2009 Report Share Posted February 15, 2009 Sam... Your lights turned out, great!!! I did mine yesterday. It took about 5 hours to put it all together, without wiring. I finished the wiring today and mine was missing the fuse, too. Put the fuse in and they worked great. :happy feet: I agree you have to be a contorsionist to do the job. A lift would have been great, but my Rhino Ramps got it up high enough to do the work. I don't think I would have someone else do it as there is a huge sense of accomplishment when you get the car down and turn on the lights... My cosmetic projects are done and it will be time to save up some cash for the Supercharger... Enjoy the ride!!! Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffIsHereToo Posted February 15, 2009 Report Share Posted February 15, 2009 All: I have compiled all the suggestions and comments, that I know of, into a single document with pictures. Enjoy! -jeff LightBreakDuctT_Ts.pdf LightBreakDuctT_Ts.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goakley1 Posted February 16, 2009 Report Share Posted February 16, 2009 Guys... One thing I forgot to tell you was that I have the lower grille already installed prior to adding the driving lights. I did NOT have to remove it!!! :happy feet: I only had to use my dremel on one of the corners of the grille curve to get my bezel to go into place. One other thing... One of my bolt holes in the light bezel was exactly the same place as one of my rivets. I drilled right through it and I now have the supplied hardware using that existing hole... I got to drive it, in the dark tonight, for the first time and my light on the right side needs to be adjusted. Other than that, it looks and works great!!! Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2007_Shelby_GT Posted February 16, 2009 Report Share Posted February 16, 2009 Guys... One thing I forgot to tell you was that I have the lower grille already installed prior to adding the driving lights. I did NOT have to remove it!!! :happy feet: I only had to use my dremel on one of the corners of the grille curve to get my bezel to go into place. One other thing... One of my bolt holes in the light bezel was exactly the same place as one of my rivets. I drilled right through it and I now have the supplied hardware using that existing hole... I got to drive it, in the dark tonight, for the first time and my light on the right side needs to be adjusted. Other than that, it looks and works great!!! Gary Gary, Hmmm, you may have something there! I removed my grill, then installed the bezel, then reinstalled the grill. It's probable that I was a bit off on the original install of the grill, because when I reinstalled it, it fit better, and did not require modification! It's also really nice and tight, thanks to four bolts instead of two rivets! I suspect that some folks will have to modify the grill either way, thankfully I didn't! I'll have to check yours out the next time I'm down that way - I've got lots of family and friends in Pasco County! Jeff: Thanks man, looks great! Sure to be a big help to those yet to install! Sam AKA: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08SGT1977 Posted February 16, 2009 Report Share Posted February 16, 2009 This is a "must have" appearance modification. I wish they all came from Las Vegas this way. At the very least I wish I had this done when it was being Shelby-ized at SAI. Looks great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crucible Posted February 16, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2009 I received my break duck & driving lights bezels last week and after requesting the installation instructions separately (they didn't come with the bezels) I installed them this past Saturday. Here's my suggestions for anyone attempting to do the job yourself. 1. Buy some car ramps and use a couple of 2X4's to get the front tires up on to clear the front air dam. 2. Remove the splash guard from underneath the radiator. This makes the installation alot easier. 3. The instructions call for locating the mounting bolts and hole cutouts by using the supplied templates. The locations for the mounting bolts are dead on but the break duct and driving lights hole locations are worthless. I precisely located these holes using a 4" and 3 5/8" hole drill. Unfortunately the bezels have such a precise fit that no matter how much you manuver the bezels they won't go in. What I did and you may consider is to remove all of the plastic bumper insert except for a 5/8" tab around the bolt locations. This allow the bezels to be positioned easily and fit snugly into the bumper location. After attaching the supplied stainless bolts, washers and nuts, the bezels are solidly in place. 4. If you have the lower billet grill, you will need to cut off the ends of the half moon tabs to fit around the break duct extensions. My driving lights are in the mail and I'll be installing them next weekend and I'll be uploading pics for all to see. The lights are finally in and I have a few tips if you're going to attempt doing the job yourself. 1. Get some car ramps. You'll have to put a couple of 2"X4"'s in front of the ramps to give the car enough elevation to clear the front air dam before driving up the ramps. 2. Remove the splash guard from underneath the radiator. This makes the whole job a lot easier. 3. The template for marking the bumper incerts is great for marking the bolt hole locations for the bezels but pretty worthless for the break duct and driving light hole locations. I cut the exact diameters called out for and couldn't get the bezels in because of the break duct and driving light extensions. The bezels don't go straight in but on an angle. What I ended up doing was cutting all of the incert away except for a 3/4"X3/4" tab where the bolt holes are located. 3. The metal hole guide that is provided is marked driver's side and passenger's side. Following the directions you'll be required to drill the mounting brackets from the fender side. This requires either a very small drill or an offset drill because there just isn't enough room to get anything bigger in there. Instead of following the directions, I used the passenger's side of the hole guide on the driver's side and the driver's side on the passenger's side. Mark the inside of the car frame instead of the outside. The hole locations work out to be the same. This will allow the use of a full size drill that can be applied from behind the air conditioning condenser. 4. The mounting brackets on the driving lights need to be attached to the supplied aluminum brackets before you install the aluminum brackets to the frame. If you don't, you'll never get them tightened if you try and attach the whole light assembly to the aluminum bracket if the bracket is installed first. Remove the light mounting bracket from the light by removing the 2-10mm side bolts. 5. Have metric wrenches and sockets. Everything is metric. The bolts on the splash guard are 5.5mm. Everything else is 10mm except for the mounting bracket on the light; it's 17mm. Attached are some pics of the installed lights as well as a pic of the MidWest Automotive Radiator cover and light covers I installed. I added the SHELBY logo and Carol signed the panel over the driver's side light. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffIsHereToo Posted February 16, 2009 Report Share Posted February 16, 2009 I have added all of the above to the Tips and Tricks document I posted a little ways up! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chill Posted February 16, 2009 Report Share Posted February 16, 2009 Thanks Jeff! I printed it and am putting it away for when it is time. I can't do it right now, shoot, I can't even order them right now!! Hopefully early summer. (: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goakley1 Posted February 16, 2009 Report Share Posted February 16, 2009 Another tip for you... I didn't have a hole saw that was big enough to do them and only have minimal cutting/trimming left. Besides, the template would get torn up from using the hole saw. Since this was a project for both my wife and I, she ended up using the dremel with a drill bit on it and drilled a bunch of holes on the perimeter of the template. Once that was done, she took the dremel, with the same bit, and cut through from hole to hole. She basically used it as a roto-zip tool to cut out the holes. After a few test fits of the bezel, trimming was accomplished with the dremel and a sanding drum. Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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