Tucker Posted December 4, 2008 Report Share Posted December 4, 2008 I've been using the Stillen Mintex pads on the front and they seem to be very metallic and wear very fast. I'm told the Hawk HT-10's are good for a street tire car. I'm not a pro, only been a couple times. VIR full coarce with pretty aggressive driving. I feel the pedel goes soft after the first hard brake with lots of smell. Just wanted to see what you all are using?? Thanks Jay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Revan Racing Posted December 4, 2008 Report Share Posted December 4, 2008 I've been using the Stillen Mintex pads on the front and they seem to be very metallic and wear very fast. I'm told the Hawk HT-10's are good for a street tire car. I'm not a pro, only been a couple times. VIR full coarce with pretty aggressive driving. I feel the pedel goes soft after the first hard brake with lots of smell. Just wanted to see what you all are using?? Thanks Jay Jay Soft pedal can come from a numer of different issues. If you are running stock fluid you are probably boiling it and if you have the soft pedal feel the fluid is shot and there could be some bad fluid built up behind the caliper. Time to change fluid. Are you running a good DOT 4 fluid? If you are not I suggest: Brembo LCF, MOTUL 600, AP 600 etc. You want a fluid that has a wet boil point of at least 399 degrees and a dry boil of at least 580 degrees. Fluid can be the big culprit to a soft pedal. Are your brake ducts functional in the front. Also, very helpful. The hawk pads are great but you should really consider a strictly race type pad for the track. It only takes 30 minutes to switch the pads out on the Brembos. Another thing that can cause a soft pedal is the brake lines. Highly recommend some braided stainless steel brake lines on all four corners. Personally, I run Raybestos ST43 Racing Brake Pads front and rear. Ton's of bite and gives me the ability to brake fairly late before the turn in. Another good track pad is the Hawk DTC-70 and DTC-60. For changing fluid, nothing beats a Motive Products Power Bleeder. No Pumping and Cracking. You can bleed the entire system by yourself. When you get more serious and you've destroyed the stock rotors, get some slotted rotors, that helps a bunch to to release the gas build up between the pad and rotor. I'm not big for cross drilled and most road course drivers would generally agree. Email me if you have any other specific questions. Glad to help. Van Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WP64 Posted December 5, 2008 Report Share Posted December 5, 2008 I've been using the Stillen Mintex pads on the front and they seem to be very metallic and wear very fast. I'm told the Hawk HT-10's are good for a street tire car. I'm not a pro, only been a couple times. VIR full coarce with pretty aggressive driving. I feel the pedel goes soft after the first hard brake with lots of smell. Just wanted to see what you all are using?? Thanks Jay Hey Jay, I'm running the HT-10's on the Shelby/Griggs GT500 that you saw at SEMA, they are a very good pad for street/track/boosted applications but they do squeak, not horrible, but some and mostly when coming to a slow stop. Griggs has advised me that I can go with a more aggressive pad than the HT-10, like the DTC-60 and DTC-70 that Van mentioned, but the more aggressive pad will not work as well on the street because you can't (relatively) generate the heat needed to make them work at their peak and subsequently they will also wear faster than the HT-10's. What have you done to your brakes so far? There are several improvements that can be made to the stock system. BTW, there's a Brake Pad thread started by svttim here in the road racing forum, scroll down to find it. Jay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WP64 Posted December 5, 2008 Report Share Posted December 5, 2008 When you get more serious and you've destroyed the stock rotors, get some slotted rotors, that helps a bunch to to release the gas build up between the pad and rotor. I'm not big for cross drilled and most road course drivers would generally agree.Van I agree :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tucker Posted December 5, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2008 Thanks guys. Yes, I have been changing the fluid before the event using Motul DOT 4. So it's been changed twice so far with less then 4200 miles. I still have stock hoses, but steel lines are on the way. The HT-10's were recommended due to running a street tire. I'm glad to hear your using them WP64. I'm told the more aggressive pad will cause the tire to lock more under hard brake. I feel the pads I'm using are to blame due to the extreme quick wear and soft pedel. I know the pads are the cause of the pedel feel because as soon as I replace them the pedels back up and feels good. This last event was only 2 days and I ran 7 sessions and they were junk! Plus covered in rust as I washed the car and let it sit when I returned home. Lots of metallic in them. I know what your going to say, but I'm running CD & SL rotors on the car. There the stockers machined. I checked and no cracks, but I bring the stockers with me just in case. I will be doing slotted only st some point. Remember I'm new, but was signed off my first time and then again 2nd run and put in the next group up. I'm not going to toot my horn, but it seems like I'm passing cars I shouldn't and only giving point bys to very good drivers. I have tons to learn, but I do know one thing for sure, I LOVE IT! What took me so long to do this?????????? :happy feet: This is the most fin you can have with your car and your clothes on!!! Thanks for the help guys. Hope to see you at a event next year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Revan Racing Posted December 5, 2008 Report Share Posted December 5, 2008 Welcome to the Darkside! It's an addiction. We all get to experience our local tracks. I would love to do VIR some time with NASA. Do you run with them? The brake lines are going to make a big improvement. Wait till you find a group in your area that runs open track. I've got one group of crazy guys down here that does a completely open track at Sebring, Homestead and PBIR. $325 for about 5 hours of track time. At the end of the day, tires spent, fluids spent, you spent. Great time. Again, welcome to the sickness. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WP64 Posted December 5, 2008 Report Share Posted December 5, 2008 This is the most fin you can have with your car and your clothes on!!! I remember saying that as well, still do :D I don't know if you met Guy Cummingham in the Griggs booth at SEMA, he's their paid driver/tech, he and I had my GT500 out on the track (Thunderhill Raceway) on Monday running some hot laps, his averaged 2:14's my best 2:18 seconds, and the HT-10's did very well, some fade but not much after repeated laps and no smell. Guy said a switch to the DTC-60's would drop another 9-10 seconds for him in my car, he also said their American Iron Extreem SN95 racecar can run Thunderhill in 1:59 seconds with him driving it so I'm pleased with his statement; though he did say that I don't want to run the DTC-60's on the street and to stick with the HT-10's for my street/track car use. After two full track days (ten 25 minute sessions) and a little street driving I still have enough pad to go another track day, the HT-10's hold up it seems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mastersmech1 Posted December 5, 2008 Report Share Posted December 5, 2008 I think you will notice a difference with the hoses alone. Not to say that is where to stop... :happy feet: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tucker Posted December 5, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2008 The next week there was a open track event. 5 hours of racing :blink: I would be trailering home a well wore out POS! Thanks for the help and not busting on me for typing "fin" Vs. fun Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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