Re what oil to use in your 500

[Scott SVT GUY]

I'm probably the last to know but my service manager came back to me today and said the oil is a synthetic 5w50.We still recomend 5000 kms oil changes or 3000 miles depending on which side of the border your on.The car takes 6 litres I've heard don't ask me quarts.We as a dealer have to order in that oil directly from Ford distribution because we only stock 5w30 in synthetic.I'm sure were not the only dealer to not stock that special oil so when booking your first service ask your dealer if they have the oil in stock it could be a mix-up while your waiting and you might have to return another day.Now that we stock that oil I'm upgrading my 4.6 from 5w30 to 5w50 for that better protection at high revs and heat points.I've been on synthetic for years and really notice the difference.Especially with a car that sits indoors do to weather or collector status.The cylinder walls never seem to dry out so when I hit the starter even after 3-4 months sitting I get very little if any starter draul or drag due to slippery surface areas.Takecare Scott

[Alloy Dave]

I'm probably the last to know but my service manager came back to me today and said the oil is a synthetic 5w50.We still recomend 5000 kms oil changes or 3000 miles depending on which side of the border your on.The car takes 6 litres I've heard don't ask me quarts.We as a dealer have to order in that oil directly from Ford distribution because we only stock 5w30 in synthetic.I'm sure were not the only dealer to not stock that special oil so when booking your first service ask your dealer if they have the oil in stock it could be a mix-up while your waiting and you might have to return another day.Now that we stock that oil I'm upgrading my 4.6 from 5w30 to 5w50 for that better protection at high revs and heat points.I've been on synthetic for years and really notice the difference.Especially with a car that sits indoors do to weather or collector status.The cylinder walls never seem to dry out so when I hit the starter even after 3-4 months sitting I get very little if any starter draul or drag due to slippery surface areas.Takecare Scott

 

I'm probably going to be crucified for this post, but here goes. Regardless of what Ford recommends, I'm going to use a slightly thicker oil. My logic is:

1. One of the reasons they recommend such a "thin" oil is to improve fuel economy....and that is not the most important thing to me.

2. I will only drive my car in warm weather, and the oil they recommend is likely a "year round" oil.

3. I believe slightly thicker oils protect better

 

Flame suit on.

 

Dave

[ColdwaterHotrod]

I'm probably going to be crucified for this post, but here goes. Regardless of what Ford recommends, I'm going to use a slightly thicker oil. My logic is:

1. One of the reasons they recommend such a "thin" oil is to improve fuel economy....and that is not the most important thing to me.

2. I will only drive my car in warm weather, and the oil they recommend is likely a "year round" oil.

3. I believe slightly thicker oils protect better

Flame suit on.

 

Dave

 

Don't worry I got you covered

[gt50035]

Terry1234, What viscosity were you thinking of if not 5w50?

 

I'm probably going to be crucified for this post, but here goes. Regardless of what Ford recommends, I'm going to use a slightly thicker oil. My logic is:

1. One of the reasons they recommend such a "thin" oil is to improve fuel economy....and that is not the most important thing to me.
   
2. I will only drive my car in warm weather, and the oil they recommend is likely a "year round" oil.
   
3. I believe slightly thicker oils protect better
   

Flame suit on.

 

Dave

 

[Alloy Dave]

Terry1234, What viscosity were you thinking of if not 5w50?

 

I'll have to see what's available, but likely a 10W50...which would be more viscous at startup.

[68fastback]

I'll have to see what's available, but likely a 10W50...which would be more viscous at startup.

 

 

How about the 5W50 synthetic with about 16oz of Lucas Pure Synthetic additive? ;-) Great Stuff

[FordGeek]

I'm probably the last to know but my service manager came back to me today and said the oil is a synthetic 5w50.We still recomend 5000 kms oil changes or 3000 miles depending on which side of the border your on.The car takes 6 litres I've heard don't ask me quarts.We as a dealer have to order in that oil directly from Ford distribution because we only stock 5w30 in synthetic.I'm sure were not the only dealer to not stock that special oil so when booking your first service ask your dealer if they have the oil in stock it could be a mix-up while your waiting and you might have to return another day.Now that we stock that oil I'm upgrading my 4.6 from 5w30 to 5w50 for that better protection at high revs and heat points.I've been on synthetic for years and really notice the difference.Especially with a car that sits indoors do to weather or collector status.The cylinder walls never seem to dry out so when I hit the starter even after 3-4 months sitting I get very little if any starter draul or drag due to slippery surface areas.Takecare Scott

 

 

The deck height on Ford's modular engines is pretty large (measured from the base of the block - without the pan - to the top of the heads). Higher viscosity oils tend to take a bit longer to travel to key components and work the oil pump a bit more. Now, talking about the differences is like talking to a bunch of geeks as to what computer is faster; in most cases it's not noticable. However, definitely things to consider are:

 

- Fuel Economy

- Sludge Deposits (a bit more with higher viscosity oils - I work for an oil company and testing proves this to be the case)

- Oiling system of the GT500 (does it have a high flow, heavy duty pump)

- Horsepower (we're talking about a tiny amount here)

 

Regards,

FordGeek (Joseph)

[jcthorne]

First, a 5W50 and a 10W50 SHOULD have very nearly the same viscosity at 100degC (operating temp). The 5W will flow better at startup but is not the reason for the Ford recomendation. The DOHC mod motors have very long timing chains with hydraulic tensioners with a fixed bleed orifice. An oil that is too thick at cold startup will cause the timing chain tensioners to apply and hold too much tension on the chain until the oil thins from temperature. This higher than desired tension results in high loads on the forward cam bearing. This forward bearing is machined directly into the head and is not easily replaced (diffcult machining operation at best).

 

This same conversation took place back in 96 when the DOHC cobras were first introduced. The design has improved since then and the failur is rare, but why take the chance? a 10W50 or 15W50 will protect no better nor be significantly different in viscosity at operating temp than the new and recommended 5W50. It will take time for all the majors to release a compatible product, but you will see this weight from most of the normal synthetic vendors soon. Buy the way, most of Motorcraft's oils are produced under contract by ExxonMobil, Mobil Lubricants Division.

[Dropping__Chronic]

I'm probably going to be crucified for this post, but here goes. Regardless of what Ford recommends, I'm going to use a slightly thicker oil. My logic is:

1. One of the reasons they recommend such a "thin" oil is to improve fuel economy....and that is not the most important thing to me.

2. I will only drive my car in warm weather, and the oil they recommend is likely a "year round" oil.

3. I believe slightly thicker oils protect better

Flame suit on.

 

Dave

 

 

The reason they use thinner oil is the tolerances inside the engine are much more refined than they were when thicker oil was used more regularly.

 

The oil has to get to MANY places inside your engine in a short amount of time, hence they use lower viscocity oils. I wouldn't recommend upping your oil, as it was designed, built, and tested to use the oil they say. Honestly back in the day you'd put thicker oil in, why not. But with how these things are built now, it's really a different animal.

 

My .02 cents.

 

-DC

[Alloy Dave]

The reason they use thinner oil is the tolerances inside the engine are much more refined than they were when thicker oil was used more regularly.

 

-DC

 

DC,

 

Remember, we are talking about the first number in the oil weight...the 5W vs. 10W. This is the "winter" weight. When I start up my GT500 in the summer (which I don't have yet) when it's 70 degrees, with 10W oil in it, I guarantee that the oil will reach all those "small places" faster than you starting up your GT500 engine, parked in Minnesota in January, in 20 degree weather, with 5W oil in it.

 

I have absolutely no need for 5W oil since I will never start the car in cold weather. Having a "wider" range oil (5w-50 is what I call "wider"...think in terms of 50-5 = 45...versus a 10W-50 having a narrower range of 40) requires the addition of viscosity enhancers that can break down faster. For example, to get a 50 weight oil to flow like a 5 weight at low temps (this would be a 5W-50), you'd have to add more viscosity enhancers than to get that 50 weight oil to flow like a 10 weight at low temps (this would be a 10W-50). The addition of more viscosity enhancers means the oil is likely to break down faster. A 5W oil is rated via cranking and pumping limits at around -20 fahrenheit. I never see temperatures anywhere near that cold.

 

Here are two good articles on the entire subject. If I planned to drive in cold weather, I'd use the 5W-50....but I don't need the 5W capability and want the improved oil life associated with having less viscosity enhancers in my oil. I'm moving to 10W-50 or even 15W-50.

 

http://www.upmpg.com/tech_articles/motoroi...sity/index.html

http://www.texacoxpresslube.com/carcare/ar..._viscosity.html

 

Dave

 

Edit: Minor edit to wording...I had some English RUF would have laughed at (or laffed at for giggles)

[Dropping__Chronic]

DC,

 

Remember, we are talking about the first number in the oil weight...the 5W vs. 10W. This is the "winter" weight. When I start up my GT500 in the summer (which I don't have yet) when it's 70 degrees, with 10W oil in it, I guarantee that the oil will reach all those "small places" faster than you starting up your GT500 engine, parked in Minnesota in January, in 20 degree weather, with 5W oil in it.

 

I have absolutely no need for 5W oil since I will never start the car in cold weather. Having a "wider" range oil (5w-50 is what I call requires the addition of viscosity enhancers that can break down faster. For example, to get a 50 weight oil to flow like a 5 weight at low temps (this would be a 5W-50), you'd have to add more viscosity enhancers than to get that 50 weight oil to flow like a 10 weight at low temps (this would be a 10W-50). The addition of more viscosity enhancers means the oil is likely to break down faster. A 5W oil is rated via cranking and pumping limits at around -20 fahrenheit. I never see temperatures anywhere near that cold.

 

Here are two good articles on the entire subject. If I planned to drive in cold weather, I'd use the 5W-50....but I don't need the 5W capability and want the improved oil life associated with having less viscosity enhancers in my oil. I'm moving to 10W-50 or even 15W-50.

 

http://www.upmpg.com/tech_articles/motoroi...sity/index.html

http://www.texacoxpresslube.com/carcare/ar..._viscosity.html

 

Dave

 

 

Interesting, thanks for the info.

 

Learn something new every day.