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Official TSB #08-16-4: Clutch Drag REPAIR RESULTS


m81mclaren

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Well I got my update this morning from my dealership and I am very disappointed and concerned.

 

Unfortuneately Ford has told my dealer they will not address my concerns at this time. Clutch chatter is a standard characteristic of the GT 500 beast, is what Ford is saying and where my car does not have any of the clutch drag symptoms with the hissing I need to continue to drive it until such time.

 

My concerns about the clicking\crunching when shifting is normal as compared to the Mustang GT according to the service department at the dealership.

 

My last concern for the clutch action taking place at a very high pedal is acceptable to my service department at my dealership also.

 

So with there being 9,000 miles on my Shelby and approaching 24 months since taking delivery, winter storage is coming soon, I guess I will continue to drive it next year and adjust my driving to compensate.

 

Any advice from anyone for my next step? Beating on it is and never will be an option for me. 75% of my 9.000 miles has been taking it back and forth to work and doing a lot of stop and go in traffic. I use neutral when I know I'm going to be sitting in one spot for a while. Not sure what my options are at this time.

 

Just keep making a stink. Request to speak with the Ford Field Engineer. Open a customer service issue on the Ford site. It will get back to them. Clutch chatter is normal, though not the chatter caused by a warped flywheel - and that happens when the clutch is always dragging on the flywheel. Though if you do not have the clutch hissing continue for 3 seconds or more when the pedal is fully depressed - then you don't have the clutch hanging up on the input shaft - which is the real problem.

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Well I got my update this morning from my dealership and I am very disappointed and concerned.

 

Unfortuneately Ford has told my dealer they will not address my concerns at this time. Clutch chatter is a standard characteristic of the GT 500 beast, is what Ford is saying and where my car does not have any of the clutch drag symptoms with the hissing I need to continue to drive it until such time.

 

My concerns about the clicking\crunching when shifting is normal as compared to the Mustang GT according to the service department at the dealership.

 

My last concern for the clutch action taking place at a very high pedal is acceptable to my service department at my dealership also.

 

So with there being 9,000 miles on my Shelby and approaching 24 months since taking delivery, winter storage is coming soon, I guess I will continue to drive it next year and adjust my driving to compensate.

 

Any advice from anyone for my next step? Beating on it is and never will be an option for me. 75% of my 9.000 miles has been taking it back and forth to work and doing a lot of stop and go in traffic. I use neutral when I know I'm going to be sitting in one spot for a while. Not sure what my options are at this time.

 

 

I share your pain. I had a similar experience. My dealer said that if they cannot demonstrate any of the symptoms in their shop, their hands are tied. They will not address intermittent problems based on blind faith. Their warranty charge back to Ford may not be honored. So, most of us are going to have to wait until we have a repeatable symptom or catastrophic failure.

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Had my car in for clutch and tranny work and it seems to be somewhat better but...... still not as smooth as some of you are discribing. I compared the list of parts replaced(shown below) with what is listed on the TSB and they are not all the same. Anyone know if these are comparable parts or should they be exactly what is stated on the TSB?

 

Thanks you your input guys.

 

Roland

 

post-8203-1221505481_thumb.jpg

post-8203-1221504764_thumb.jpg

post-8203-1221504764_thumb.jpg

post-8203-1221505481_thumb.jpg

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Had my car in for clutch and tranny work and it seems to be somewhat better but...... still not as smooth as some of you are discribing. I compared the list of parts replaced(shown below) with what is listed on the TSB and they are not all the same. Anyone know if these are comparable parts or should they be exactly what is stated on the TSB?

 

Thanks you your input guys.

 

Roland

 

post-8203-1221504764_thumb.jpg

 

I looked at your part numbers. They gave you an entire new tranny.

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Grabber...what do you think about the clutch and flywheel?

 

Thanks

 

 

I checked and your flywheel is the same as my new billet one. The clutch is a different number, but it could be because it was not part of the TSB kit.

 

Here's mine.

th_Flywheelinstallation003.jpg

th_Flywheelinstallation007.jpg

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Time to post here - since now it is 9 days later and I got my car back ! Just went in to check on it as they said it was up on the lift yesterday. Walked all through the shop, no car, ? Went to the service desk and a guy walked all around, finally found out it was done, mechanic had just come back from a test ride, couldn't release it to me until the service manager drove it. I volunteered to take him for a ride.... they just let me have it and said to come back tomorrow to collect my paperwork - so no idea what they actually did or part numbers etc.

 

First impression is - smooth. The clutch is soft, releases very early in the pedal and there is no more jumpiness, no more jerky engagement especially going into reverse and coming from a stop in first. Have not gone WOT but had a little boost from 2nd through 4th on the highway. smooth, powerful, but a completely differerent clutch feel for sure.

 

More after more driving, so far so good.

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Well I got my update this morning from my dealership and I am very disappointed and concerned.

 

Unfortuneately Ford has told my dealer they will not address my concerns at this time. Clutch chatter is a standard characteristic of the GT 500 beast, is what Ford is saying and where my car does not have any of the clutch drag symptoms with the hissing I need to continue to drive it until such time.

 

My concerns about the clicking\crunching when shifting is normal as compared to the Mustang GT according to the service department at the dealership.

 

My last concern for the clutch action taking place at a very high pedal is acceptable to my service department at my dealership also.

 

So with there being 9,000 miles on my Shelby and approaching 24 months since taking delivery, winter storage is coming soon, I guess I will continue to drive it next year and adjust my driving to compensate.

 

Any advice from anyone for my next step? Beating on it is and never will be an option for me. 75% of my 9.000 miles has been taking it back and forth to work and doing a lot of stop and go in traffic. I use neutral when I know I'm going to be sitting in one spot for a while. Not sure what my options are at this time.

 

Same response for me. My dealer just called after 2 weeks in the shop waiting for the word. The Area Rep and another regional person evaluated my car and said all is normal and the full TSB or any repair for that matter will not be performed. I'm pretty sure they did not drive it for any length of time to recreate the problem and I was unable to speak to either one. I'll check the odo when I pick it up. I'm frustrated that the Service Manager agrees that there is an issue but his hands are tied. Guess I'll have to drive it until something fails. This is silly since the TSB parts are on hand and waiting for it to fail will simply cause more damage and cost Ford more. My car has sat in dealerships for a total of 6 weeks with clutch/tranny diagnosis and repairs. I love the car dearly but the ownership experience has not been good. I believe Ford has tried to make this right but has run into so many costs that they are changing their cooperative position all of a sudden.

 

quick update: 2:30PM- had a lengthy discussion with the service manager. The Ford rep suggested that the reason the clutch pedal engagement location is now different is due to the thicker flywheel and that it will lower as the clutch material wears. Son or Grabber do you notice higher engagement of your pedal? Also, it was stated that this is a racing clutch and some chatter is normal. No explanation on the notchiness into first and reverse or the 2nd gear grind. I guess they were unable to replicate.

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TSB completed today!!! Fly wheel, clutch and slave cylinder. I already have the 8175 tranny, and the SVT development engineer that FMC flew out from Flat Rock to look at the car and oversee the repairs felt that the tranny was fine, and I agreed. I have about 100 miles on the TSB parts so far, all today. :) The difference is unbelievable! With the exception of a soft pedal, still bleeding the air out; I am totally satisfied. I have noticed a new slight clunk when I engage the clutch to shift. Has anyone else experienced this?

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TSB completed today!!! Fly wheel, clutch and slave cylinder. I already have the 8175 tranny, and the SVT development engineer that FMC flew out from Flat Rock to look at the car and oversee the repairs felt that the tranny was fine, and I agreed. I have about 100 miles on the TSB parts so far, all today. :) The difference is unbelievable! With the exception of a soft pedal, still bleeding the air out; I am totally satisfied. I have noticed a new slight clunk when I engage the clutch to shift. Has anyone else experienced this?

 

The pedal on your new clutch should take about 38 pounds of pressure to push it in. One that is nearing the worn out stage will take about 50 pounds of foot pressure to push it in, so you might need to get used to that. If they did not get all the air out during the hydrolic fluid bleeding proceedure, then you need to sit in your car and pump the clutch pedal 20 times before you start the care for the next few days.

 

As for the clunk, it sounds like a drive line problem. You need to jack the car up in the air with out the rear tires touching the ground. Have the car in nuetral (make sure to block the front tires for safety & use jack stands) and crawl under the car. Grab the driveline with both hands and turn it right and left slowly and listen. If you hear a clunk....that could be your problem.

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now day 2 after the TSB service. VERY VERY Happy :happy feet:

 

The stutter/shudder on take up in 1st gear is totally gone. Did not realize how much I had come to expect/anticipate that every stop sign or stop light would lead to the feeling I was about to stall the car. It wasn't me - it was the car - and now it is amazing. Still a little tight sometimes getting into reverse, but takes off smoothly every time.

 

I too have a very faint click (not a clunk at all) every time I depress the clutch. Can't even hear it if the top is down or music is on. Sounds like it is in pedal or a very nearby linkage. The pedal is less soft than yesterday, but I may just be getting used to it already. About 125 miles since picking it up.

 

On the highway I did kick some boost, not WOT, from 2nd through 4th, and thought I heard a funny sound shifting from 3-4. Almost like a whiz or whir as 4th came on. Not sure. Will try and duplicate it on the way home today.

 

Overall like I said, amazing change and actually worth the 9 days it was at the shop (even if it only took 2 days to do the work !)

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One thing to remember is that these clutches were designed for the abuse. Even the TSB indicates that apparently driving these cars SLOW causes more problems than aggressive driving. It specifically mentions [in town or stop and go driving] being a main culprit, generating too much heat for the flywheel to properly dissipate without warping.

 

 

An update to my TSB repair:

 

Took the car in to Ed at PSE to do a thorough tech inspection on the car before the Terlingua event (mainly concerned about the brakes). We put it up on the lift and the first thing Ed saw was that the bolts that secure the tranny to the cross brace were missing!!!!! Then he noticed fluid leaking out of the tranny :censored:

 

He's been in contact with the service manager at the dealership, and I am told they are cooperating with him to get it fixed properly. I'll be at the shop this afternoon to do the other maintenance work and will learn more about the situation at that time. I begged the dealership to let PSE do work to begin with. This wouldn't have happened if the dealerships really cared about us as customers. Instead they are hell bent on maximizing their profits, quality be damned! So the tech's get the squeeze (I don't think it's the tech's fault. It comes down from the TOP!!!!!)

 

I'm a little bit :censored: -off right now, especially with Terlingua just 12 days away.............

Update:

 

The two right side transmission mount outer bolts were missing. The two inner bolts on same bracket were finger tight. All four bolts at the exhaust manifold/collector pipe joints were loose. We replaced all four of the outer bolts, torqued everything to spec's and checked all other connections on the drive shaft, bell housing, etc. The bolts had to be ordered, and didn't get here until yesterday.

 

The fluid, as best we can tell, came out of the vent tube. The best explanation for this would be that the tranny was filled while on the bench and rolled over, thus filling the tube. When the car was driven, the pressure blew it out. Hopefully this is an accurate guess. It's been cleaned and sitting for five days now with no new leaks. I'll have to put it back on the lift after Terlingua to know for sure.

 

It has cost me four days of prep time getting ready for Terlingua. The car may be dirty when we leave but it will be in safe operating order.........

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now day 2 after the TSB service. VERY VERY Happy :happy feet:

 

The stutter/shudder on take up in 1st gear is totally gone. Did not realize how much I had come to expect/anticipate that every stop sign or stop light would lead to the feeling I was about to stall the car. It wasn't me - it was the car - and now it is amazing. Still a little tight sometimes getting into reverse, but takes off smoothly every time.

 

I too have a very faint click (not a clunk at all) every time I depress the clutch. Can't even hear it if the top is down or music is on. Sounds like it is in pedal or a very nearby linkage. The pedal is less soft than yesterday, but I may just be getting used to it already. About 125 miles since picking it up.

 

On the highway I did kick some boost, not WOT, from 2nd through 4th, and thought I heard a funny sound shifting from 3-4. Almost like a whiz or whir as 4th came on. Not sure. Will try and duplicate it on the way home today.

 

Overall like I said, amazing change and actually worth the 9 days it was at the shop (even if it only took 2 days to do the work !)

More than likely just the netural safety switch that you're hearing.

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Update 09-17-08 but first a brief timeline:

 

08-30-08

Car towed to dealership. Catastrophic clutch failure. Cannot get it into any gear with engine running.

 

09-08-08

Nine days later, the flywheel is the last of the parts to arrive at the dealership. Work commences two days later. The reason: My car was not put in the queue until the last part arrived, a two day wait.

 

09-09-09

Upon tranny disassembly, it is discovered the second gear ring needs replacement. It has to be ordered.

 

09-12-09

The ring gear arrives.

 

09-15-09

Upon tranny assembly, an additional discovery. The front end of the internal shifter shaft rides in a bushing that's press fit into the bellhousing. This bushing "apparently" got pushed into the hole far enough that the shaft does not make contact with it. (This is how the dealership explained it to me.) It took them 24 hours to find that the bushing is NOT serviced separately -- that the entire bellhousing has to be replaced and to find a part number for the bellhousing. What a crock. I suspect the tech somehow screwed up the bushing upon disassembly. Has anyone heard or experienced similar issues?

 

09-16-09

The bellhousing is ordered. Coming directly from Detroit. Expected to arrive 9-19-08. What else can delay completion???

 

So it appears I will not get my car back until the fourth week after it was towed in....

 

Willie

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HI GUYS,

 

WELL , I GUESS I AM NEXT TO FALL VICTIM TO THE DREADED # 08-16-4 TSB.

 

I HAVE ALMOST NO ABLILTY TO GET THE CAR IN TO 1ST OR REVERSE WITHOUT GRINDING.

 

I ALSO HAVE CLUTCH SLIPPAGE WHEN THE BOOST COMES UP WHEN I HIT THE THROTTLE. THE RPM'S

 

GO UP, BUT THE CAR DOES NOT SPEED UP. THESE PROBLEMS STARTED AFTER BEING IN THE WOOWARD

 

DREAM CRUISE STOP AND GO TRAFFIC FOR 2 1/2 HOURS. NOW THAT I THINK BACK I COULD SMELL

 

WHAT I THOUGHT WAS BURNT CLUTCH MATERIAL. TODAYS STOP AND GO TRAFFIC PUT THE FINAL NAIL

 

IN THIS TRANNY. TIME TO CALL THE SERVICE MANAGER OF THE DEALER THAT I BOUGHT THE CAR FROM.

 

BY THE WAY, I ONLY HAVE 3,402 MILES ON MY 08 GT500 VERT.

 

NOW THE WAR BEGINS ; ME VS THE BLUE OVAL SERVICE WARRANTY.

 

OH YAH, DO NOT FOR GET TO CALCULATE THE WAIT FOR PARTS.

 

:banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead:

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Time to post here - since now it is 9 days later and I got my car back ! Just went in to check on it as they said it was up on the lift yesterday. Walked all through the shop, no car, ? Went to the service desk and a guy walked all around, finally found out it was done, mechanic had just come back from a test ride, couldn't release it to me until the service manager drove it. I volunteered to take him for a ride.... they just let me have it and said to come back tomorrow to collect my paperwork - so no idea what they actually did or part numbers etc.

 

First impression is - smooth. The clutch is soft, releases very early in the pedal and there is no more jumpiness, no more jerky engagement especially going into reverse and coming from a stop in first. Have not gone WOT but had a little boost from 2nd through 4th on the highway. smooth, powerful, but a completely differerent clutch feel for sure.

 

More after more driving, so far so good.

 

You've probably got air in the lines. With car off, pump clutch about 30 times, then push brake pedal firmly. You may have to do this a couple of times over the next day or so prior to starting the car. The clutch pedal should firm up after this process. if it does not, you may have an issue with the Master or Slave cylinders.

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The pedal on your new clutch should take about 38 pounds of pressure to push it in. One that is nearing the worn out stage will take about 50 pounds of foot pressure to push it in, so you might need to get used to that. If they did not get all the air out during the hydrolic fluid bleeding proceedure, then you need to sit in your car and pump the clutch pedal 20 times before you start the care for the next few days.

 

As for the clunk, it sounds like a drive line problem. You need to jack the car up in the air with out the rear tires touching the ground. Have the car in nuetral (make sure to block the front tires for safety & use jack stands) and crawl under the car. Grab the driveline with both hands and turn it right and left slowly and listen. If you hear a clunk....that could be your problem.

 

 

Thanks Grabber. I did the clutch bleed pump exercise, and that worked, the clutch now has a normal feel, pretty much what it was but much smoother engage of course. The clunk could be related to my suspension mods, need to listen very carefully for a couple of days, as I don't notice it all the time on shifts. The tech who did the work did go out of his way to say he balanced and marked the drive line. Basically going to wait until I have 500 miles on the new parts, and see if there is still an issue or unusual noises.

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HI GUYS,

 

WELL , I GUESS I AM NEXT TO FALL VICTIM TO THE DREADED # 08-16-4 TSB.

 

I HAVE ALMOST NO ABLILTY TO GET THE CAR IN TO 1ST OR REVERSE WITHOUT GRINDING.

 

I ALSO HAVE CLUTCH SLIPPAGE WHEN THE BOOST COMES UP WHEN I HIT THE THROTTLE. THE RPM'S

 

GO UP, BUT THE CAR DOES NOT SPEED UP. THESE PROBLEMS STARTED AFTER BEING IN THE WOOWARD

 

DREAM CRUISE STOP AND GO TRAFFIC FOR 2 1/2 HOURS. NOW THAT I THINK BACK I COULD SMELL

 

WHAT I THOUGHT WAS BURNT CLUTCH MATERIAL. TODAYS STOP AND GO TRAFFIC PUT THE FINAL NAIL

 

IN THIS TRANNY. TIME TO CALL THE SERVICE MANAGER OF THE DEALER THAT I BOUGHT THE CAR FROM.

 

BY THE WAY, I ONLY HAVE 3,402 MILES ON MY 08 GT500 VERT.

 

NOW THE WAR BEGINS ; ME VS THE BLUE OVAL SERVICE WARRANTY.

 

OH YAH, DO NOT FOR GET TO CALCULATE THE WAIT FOR PARTS.

 

:banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead:

The number 1 killer of the flywheel and clutch assembly, and with only 3,402 total miles on the car. Your dealer should not give you any crap on doing the TSB, and if they do, escalate your issue right up the chain of command right away.

 

Good luck Scotty.

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I guess I had it good....mine was in yesterday with a few symptoms (clutch chatter...tougher to get into first/reverse than other gears and it failed Grabber's clutch test. I highly advise everyone going to the dealership to have them perform Grabber's clutch test...it isn't part of the TSB for diagnosing the issue, but it can not be denied when performed (if it fails that is)....like mine did.

 

I had a call within 2 hrs. that I was getting a full TSB from the Service Manager....no regional reps etc. needed. Why are some dealerships getting reps involved...they will most certainly shoot you down as that is there job.

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Same response for me. My dealer just called after 2 weeks in the shop waiting for the word. The Area Rep and another regional person evaluated my car and said all is normal and the full TSB or any repair for that matter will not be performed. I'm pretty sure they did not drive it for any length of time to recreate the problem and I was unable to speak to either one. I'll check the odo when I pick it up. I'm frustrated that the Service Manager agrees that there is an issue but his hands are tied. Guess I'll have to drive it until something fails. This is silly since the TSB parts are on hand and waiting for it to fail will simply cause more damage and cost Ford more. My car has sat in dealerships for a total of 6 weeks with clutch/tranny diagnosis and repairs. I love the car dearly but the ownership experience has not been good. I believe Ford has tried to make this right but has run into so many costs that they are changing their cooperative position all of a sudden.

 

quick update: 2:30PM- had a lengthy discussion with the service manager. The Ford rep suggested that the reason the clutch pedal engagement location is now different is due to the thicker flywheel and that it will lower as the clutch material wears. Son or Grabber do you notice higher engagement of your pedal? Also, it was stated that this is a racing clutch and some chatter is normal. No explanation on the notchiness into first and reverse or the 2nd gear grind. I guess they were unable to replicate.

 

 

Whether or not Ford wants to fix mine at this time is up to them. I purchased the full maximum seven year premium Ford ESP plan so I will be covered for at least another five years. If it costs Ford more to fix down the road that will be there problem.

 

Second a friend mentioned that maybe a smaller dealership that I brought mine to may be more easily intimidated by the regional reps and warn them not to pull mine apart in fear they won't be reimbursed. I will continue to drive mine and adjust myself with the throttle until such time as Grabbers test fails. When that happens I will bring my Shelby to Tasca next time where they are an authorized Shelby performance dealership.

 

In the mean time I plan to continue to enjoy enjoy enjoy.

 

Edit update: I meant to mention a theory I had driving my Shelby to work tonight. I wonder if maybe the high clutch pedal action is from the early first signs the clutch is releasing too slowly. Maybe as it starts to drag maybe it's taking the clutch a little extra time before the clutch releases to the flywheel.

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I took my car to the dealership 2 days ago to check to see if the TSB repair needed to be done. The service manager drove the car and said it seemed to be fine for now. I've had the car since 9-5-07, and have 8500 miles on the odometer. Since it is past 12 months, I was told that if the service had to be performed it would out of pocket because the clutch is a "wear and tear" item only warrantied for 12 months/12K miles. Is this correct??

I also have an extended warranty on the vehicle, but it didn't seem to make any difference.

This is an expensive fix if it needs to be done and I think it's pretty shabby on the part of Ford if they don't cover this on a vehicle this new and with this few of miles. The signs I noted of occasional grind going into 2nd and 3rd gear started several months ago, long before I had the vehicle a full year.

Does anyone have clarification on this?

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I took my car to the dealership 2 days ago to check to see if the TSB repair needed to be done. The service manager drove the car and said it seemed to be fine for now. I've had the car since 9-5-07, and have 8500 miles on the odometer. Since it is past 12 months, I was told that if the service had to be performed it would out of pocket because the clutch is a "wear and tear" item only warrantied for 12 months/12K miles. Is this correct??

I also have an extended warranty on the vehicle, but it didn't seem to make any difference.

This is an expensive fix if it needs to be done and I think it's pretty shabby on the part of Ford if they don't cover this on a vehicle this new and with this few of miles. The signs I noted of occasional grind going into 2nd and 3rd gear started several months ago, long before I had the vehicle a full year.

Does anyone have clarification on this?

 

 

There are just about as many threads on the clutch\TSB repairs as there was a year and a half ago pertaining to the dash placques. It's to my understanding they will be covered providing the flywheel shows signs of overheating and warp and the clutch shows signs of dragging. Some believe it will be covered under the powertrain warranty which I believe is five years for our cars. Read up on some of the other threads. Worse comes to worse we can always start tar and feathering a few of these Ford reps.

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THANKS SON OF GT,

 

I HAVE ALREADY TALK TO THE SERVICE MANAGER AND THEY HAVE ORDERED THE PARTS.

 

THEY SAID 2-3 WEEKS FOR ALL THE PARTS.

 

:banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead:

 

 

Cobra Scotty, I am going to give you a phone number in Dearborn via private message. This number is directly into the Executive Offices of FMC. The person who answers that number will take care of your problems.

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I took my car to the dealership 2 days ago to check to see if the TSB repair needed to be done. The service manager drove the car and said it seemed to be fine for now. I've had the car since 9-5-07, and have 8500 miles on the odometer. Since it is past 12 months, I was told that if the service had to be performed it would out of pocket because the clutch is a "wear and tear" item only warrantied for 12 months/12K miles. Is this correct??

I also have an extended warranty on the vehicle, but it didn't seem to make any difference.

This is an expensive fix if it needs to be done and I think it's pretty shabby on the part of Ford if they don't cover this on a vehicle this new and with this few of miles. The signs I noted of occasional grind going into 2nd and 3rd gear started several months ago, long before I had the vehicle a full year.

Does anyone have clarification on this?

 

 

That is not correct. The clutch was damaged due to the failure of an item under the extended powertrain warranty, ie. the flywheel warping due to insufficient heat disipation, which was a design issue related to the 'vent' holes in the fly wheel; they were intended to disipate heat and actually wond up causing more induction of heat into the flywheel. Hand bone connected to the wrist bone..... So when the TSB is done, all parts are covered. Try again, and if they don't go along, I have a contact for you in MI.

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The pedal on your new clutch should take about 38 pounds of pressure to push it in. One that is nearing the worn out stage will take about 50 pounds of foot pressure to push it in, so you might need to get used to that. If they did not get all the air out during the hydrolic fluid bleeding proceedure, then you need to sit in your car and pump the clutch pedal 20 times before you start the care for the next few days.

 

As for the clunk, it sounds like a drive line problem. You need to jack the car up in the air with out the rear tires touching the ground. Have the car in nuetral (make sure to block the front tires for safety & use jack stands) and crawl under the car. Grab the driveline with both hands and turn it right and left slowly and listen. If you hear a clunk....that could be your problem.

 

 

Have determined, I think, that the occassional slight clunk sound is related to my suspension, particularly the UCA I had installed. All other aspects of the drive-line are great, so far.

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I took mine in on Wednesday for the clutch slipping in 5th gear. Got the TSB work approved the same day and should be recieving the parts in 5 days. I have 35,300 miles on it and i hope i can feel the difference. Ford is also giving me a new transmission.

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post-18936-1221883771_thumb.jpg

 

 

Now 3 days into 'life after the TSB' and still amazed at what a difference it makes (no chatter on take off from first or reverse, actually feels like I gained some power too). Finally got the paper-work from the dealer today. Will post in hopes that Grabber or someone else can confirm what was/wasn't done. thanks

post-18936-1221883771_thumb.jpg

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post-18936-1221883771_thumb.jpg

 

 

Now 3 days into 'life after the TSB' and still amazed at what a difference it makes (no chatter on take off from first or reverse, actually feels like I gained some power too). Finally got the paper-work from the dealer today. Will post in hopes that Grabber or someone else can confirm what was/wasn't done. thanks

 

Your invoice show the full TSB was done. Congrats.

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