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Official TSB #08-16-4: Clutch Drag REPAIR RESULTS


m81mclaren

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Glad you had a good response from Frederick Motors. Do remember that they also make money from Ford when they complete warranty work, albiet not as much as non-warranty repairs. Therefore, you are happy and so is Frederick Motors. I deal with Century Ford in Mt. Airy and have had great service for over 30 yrs. A great small dealership that cares.

 

Good to hear there is another good dealer relatively close. FM has been good SO FAR. As they say, 'the proof is in the pudding'. Reading some of the other posts here, like the ones just above mine, it seems the quality of the repairs and perhaps the engineering behind the TSB in general could be questionable. Have you had this TSB done yet, and if so was it done at Mt Airy?

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Good to hear there is another good dealer relatively close. FM has been good SO FAR. As they say, 'the proof is in the pudding'. Reading some of the other posts here, like the ones just above mine, it seems the quality of the repairs and perhaps the engineering behind the TSB in general could be questionable. Have you had this TSB done yet, and if so was it done at Mt Airy?

 

I think the engineering on the TSB is solid. I think that Son of GT has a good point that some members might have a faulty master cylinder.

 

If you have not seen the flywheel thread...here it it. It will help you understand the TSB.

 

http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/index.php...ic=32271&hl=

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I agree with Rob and Enis, something isn't right with the master/slave cylinder....I came to this conclusion today for the following reason:

 

My car failed the hiss test today after driving in to work in stop and go traffic. I guess I am getting more than an oil change tomorrow...

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I agree with Rob and Enis, something isn't right with the master/slave cylinder....I came to this conclusion today for the following reason:

 

My car failed the hiss test today after driving in to work in stop and go traffic. I guess I am getting more than an oil change tomorrow...

 

It is so very importand that the air be removed from the hydrolic lines after the work is done. I hope your mech did the procedure correctly to make sure the air was all removed. My mech did the proceedure 6 times as I watched him do it. Before you have the tranny removed again, you might ask to bleed the lines again.

 

You could also try pumping the clutch pedal 20 times and pumping the brake pedal to see if that helps. do this a few times. Please let us know what happens.

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Change of tune at FREDERICK MOTORS, the Ford dealership in Fredneck, MD. After taking the Asst. Service Mgr, a Certified Master Technician and SVT Master Tech, for a drive yesterday and after we returned having him, while I was standing there, tell the other service writer to 'order the parts for the TSB'; and at which time I asked the service writer; 'you will be doing the full TSB right?, and having him reply yes; NOW I get a call this morning saying that the Service Director, a Jerry Lenga, 'reviewed' the service request and is now denying it!! They have made a complete 180 degree turn, overnight!! The Master Tech says my car is exhibiting the problem, and they agreed to do the repairs, yesterday. I'll now be taking this directly to Ford in Dearborn and getting the COO to address it. I'm done with this dealership. BTW Two of my neighbors have '08 Edge Limted Edition cross-overs. Both of them have had issues with getting followup service and warranty related work completed at FREDERICK MOTORS. IMO this dealership is a real POS, they both bought their vehicles there, so customer loyalty doesn't mean much to them either. When I was speaking with the 'Service Director' Jerry Lenga I asked him about the turn around, and did it firmly, he got defensive and when I expressed my frustration with his decision, and what I was going to do, escalate to Dearborn, MI; he said 'are you threatening me!'. I didn't respond to that. But yeah, I was 'threatening him professionally' if that's how he takes me escalating beyond his level!!! What a moron! So now I'm reading the SEC filings to get the names I need to start this unpleasant process I have had to go through with two other US manufactured automobile, both Chrysler products, most recently a 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee, that was bought back from me, after I personally spoke with the COO of Chrysler about the issues it had. I was very hopeful when I purchased this Ford SVT premier vehicle, and now I have to go through a bunch of BS to get an acknowledged engineering and manufacturing error serviced, and have the manufacturer live up to their commitments and stand behind their engineering and manufacturing processes! This really sucks and is yet another example of why this country is on it's decline. I had a Lexus SC400 is the early '90s, it was a 1991, the old two door coupe, they looked a little like a blotted Jaguar XKE. Anyway, the only issue I had with that car was a failed seal in the left headlight assembly, an all in one enclosure. I took the car down to the dealership, where I DIDN'T buy it, since I now lived in northern CA; anyway, the dealership put me in a loaner, LS400, and said the car would be ready later that day. When I came to pick up the car, they had not only replaced the faulty assembly, but also the other one, AND both of the rear taillight assemblies! I asked how much each one cost them? The front assemblies were $450 a pop, and rears were $350 a pop, in 1991 dollars!!! It's a real shame we have to go to foreign countries to find good products and companies that will stand behind them. My take is that GREED is going to be the downfall of the American automobile industry, and it's been going on for over 30 years now!!!! Just my opinion, and I realize I am now ranting way beyond a warped flywheel, however I tend to dwell on the principles behind people's and corporation's decisions, in my attempt to figure out why they do what they do!!! Soap box off. :rant2:

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Took my vehicle to a local dealer In San Antonio TX, and was denied the tsb. Acconding to them clutches are not covered under warranty. The service rep also informed me that they have replaced 2 other clutches on GT500 one having less than 400 miles and they charged the customer $4500. This is a bunch of Crap! I have contacted another dealership in California and they have completed 3 tsb's in the past week on GT500. The service rep gave me the number to ford corp and told me to place a complaint and get some help from them. I will keep you all posted on the results. The TSB states that the Flywheel is damaging the clutch. The Flywheel is covered under the 3yr/36000mile warranty. So technically if the clutch fails due to the flywheel after 12000 miles it should still be covered. just my .02.

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i had a very soft clutch when i first got the car from the dealer. i pumped it several times and then got full clutch with no hiss. the next day after setting overnight i could tell it had pled down some but not much. i pumped it up again and drove for probly 250 miles with no probs. Since then no more mushy pedal, i guess it just needed the air worked out. It will be setting up till this coming wednesday when i return home, so i will see if it bled down. i really dont think it will be.

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i had a very soft clutch when i first got the car from the dealer. i pumped it several times and then got full clutch with no hiss. the next day after setting overnight i could tell it had pled down some but not much. i pumped it up again and drove for probly 250 miles with no probs. Since then no more mushy pedal, i guess it just needed the air worked out. It will be setting up till this coming wednesday when i return home, so i will see if it bled down. i really dont think it will be.

Do the pumping action for a few days before you start the car. This should help.

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I have now completed my first 100 miles on my new clutch and flywheel.

Impressions:

Clutch pedal is not loose anywhere, even at the top of the pedal. It's firm, but not stiff at all. It feels just right.

 

I have done the hiss test several times. No hissing in nuetral with the clutch depressed. This is good.

 

Starting out in first gear with low RPM's....there is no clutch chatter at all. Starting out in 1st gear with mid RPM's feels great too.

 

The shifting is very good at all RPM's. There is no bumping of the syncros or crunching feel. I can feel the shift go into the gear with a positive engagement. I am trying to explain what the shift feels like, and the best I can do is say that it feels like a silent click when it goes into gear. Like it was meant to be.

UPDATED IMPRESSIONS:

 

I have been out of town for a week on vacation, so my car has been sitting all week.

I went out to start it in my shop. Rolled both windows down so I could listen to the motor. Turned the key on and she fired right up. Left her in nuetral and listened. No whine and no hiss. Pushed the clutch pedal in and held it. Listened very carefully. No hissing at all. Did it a second time, and still no hissing.

 

Results: HISS TEST PASSED.

 

I then took the car out to a Driving Rally event. The driving was on winding twisty roads with alot of shifting. Many hairpin corners, and lots of 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear shifts. The drive was 2 hours long up in the Oregon country back hills. I put a total of 160 miles on the new clutch and flywheel set up today. The performance was superb. The shifting was all smooth. Never bumped any syncros or missed a beat. The temp was 97 here today, so it was nice and hot.

 

RESULTS: I now have 260 miles on my TSB work and I could not be happier. :)

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UPDATED IMPRESSIONS:

 

I have been out of town for a week on vacation, so my car has been sitting all week.

I went out to start it in my shop. Rolled both windows down so I could listen to the motor. Turned the key on and she fired right up. Left her in nuetral and listened. No whine and no hiss. Pushed the clutch pedal in and held it. Listened very carefully. No hissing at all. Did it a second time, and still no hissing.

 

Results: HISS TEST PASSED.

 

I then took the car out to a Driving Rally event. The driving was on winding twisty roads with alot of shifting. Many hairpin corners, and lots of 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear shifts. The drive was 2 hours long up in the Oregon country back hills. I put a total of 160 miles on the new clutch and flywheel set up today. The performance was superb. The shifting was all smooth. Never bumped any syncros or missed a beat. The temp was 97 here today, so it was nice and hot.

 

RESULTS: I now have 260 miles on my TSB work and I could not be happier. :)

 

Way to go Rob. Must feel great finally.

 

Bump...curious thought here, but could they have changed the flywheel design but kept the same p/n? I'm wondering because the flywheel in TSB is the same p/n that they installed. But not the clutch assy. I'm calling the dealer tomorrow to possibly get the updated clutch assy, and possibly go ahead and change the flywheel also. But the latter may not happen, since p/n's match.

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Way to go Rob. Must feel great finally.

 

Bump...curious thought here, but could they have changed the flywheel design but kept the same p/n? I'm wondering because the flywheel in TSB is the same p/n that they installed. But not the clutch assy. I'm calling the dealer tomorrow to possibly get the updated clutch assy, and possibly go ahead and change the flywheel also. But the latter may not happen, since p/n's match.

 

The new flywheel has a new part number and so does the new clutch. That's how they keep track of the parts.

 

Here are the new part numbers right off of the boxs.

th_Flywheelinstallation003.jpg

th_Flywheelinstallation007.jpg

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Username-

 

sprint200

 

 

YEAR-

 

2007

 

 

Symptoms (clutch drag, grinding, chatter, etc.)-

 

Clutch engagement has always been in the top 1/2" of pedal travel. Clutch chatter (which was supposedly "normal"). When cold, I occassionally had to slip the clutch to engage reverse. Occassionally was "locked out" of 3rd gear on a 2nd-to-3rd shift.

 

 

TSB items actually installed (please indicate if you also have previously received a new transmission)

 

Full TSB installed on all original equipment; plus a replacement Slave Cylinder Assembly

 

Results after 100 Mi.

 

Pending

 

 

Results after 1k Mi.

 

Pending

 

Initial impressions:

 

The clutch chatter appears to be gone (yea!). Clutch action is now in the middle of the pedal stroke. The duration of the "HISS" is now much shorter, and when in neutral it only occurs on the downstroke not on pedal release. Shifting action is still a bit notchy but no trouble engaging gears.

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TSB completed 08/20/08. Only have 17 miles on new components. I will post repair details and post repair observations in the next two days or so, but inital comment after 17 miles....

 

 

 

WOW, TERRIFIC, AWESOME, BIG DIFFERENCE!

 

 

More to come...

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TSB completed 08/20/08. Only have 17 miles on new components. I will post repair details and post repair observations in the next two days or so, but inital comment after 17 miles....

 

 

 

WOW, TERRIFIC, AWESOME, BIG DIFFERENCE!

 

 

More to come...

 

Did they do the full TSB ?

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Did they do the full TSB ?

Yes sir, they did, and it's definately noticable too. MUCH smoother shifting in all gears, and even the throw from gear to gear seems better than before; much tighter/shorter.

 

NO MORE CHATTER TOO. I accidently let the revs drop too low on one of my take offs, and even then did not get any chatter.

 

Galpin Ford is right next to the freeway, and the on ramp in the direction I needed to go is quite long. When I throttled up and went through the gears (transmission under moderate/heavy load) all up shifts were still smooth.

 

Repair details:

 

1 Seal-Asy - oil

1 Flywheel Asy

1 Trans kit

1 Kit - clutch repair (clutch and pressure plate asy)

1 Master Cylinder Asy. Don't ask me. :shrug: I guess they felt that it needed to be replaced again. I haven't had a chance to talk to the Service Writer or tech to find out why, but I will tomorrow.

2 (cans?) of Fluid - Brake.

 

Maybe you need to contact you-know-who and get his opinion about the master cylinders. We may have another future TSB about them. I only say that because I have now had two installed since I recieved the car, and I have to assume that the tech is discovering somesort of issue with them. Also because of the other TS members who are failing the "Hiss test" too.

 

But like I said, I'll call the dealer tomorrow and find out why they felt that the MC needed to be replaced.

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I have read Ford's TSB for the clutch drag and I'm not sure if my issues warrant repair under it.

 

I have tried Grabbers Hissss test and my car passes.

 

My problem i'm having is my clutch action is occuring in my opinion way too high. I had a mechanic whos a friend of mine take it for a test drive this morning and he feels it's way too high also.

 

My second concern is shifting gears from 1st to 2nd, 2nd back to 1st, 4th to 5th, and 6th into 5th. it's hard to shift and I get the cratchety, grinding. I also think the shifting is getting worse.

 

Lastly my clutch chattering in both 1st and reverse seems to be getting worse. I have had this chatter from day one and have continuously adjusted my driving to compensate, but with todays test drive with my mechanic he can not believe how hard it is to reduce the chatter. He has driven many standard Mustangs including the SVT Mustangs and he feels this is completely horrible and unacceptable.

 

He thinks I need to call and talk with Ford and have it checked, but before I do I hoped maybe another Shelby owner who has had the same problems can direct me as to what I should do.

 

Again I have read the TSB from Ford, but I don't think I fall under it's symptoms for repair.

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I have read Ford's TSB for the clutch drag and I'm not sure if my issues warrant repair under it.

 

I have tried Grabbers Hissss test and my car passes.

 

My problem i'm having is my clutch action is occuring in my opinion way too high. I had a mechanic whos a friend of mine take it for a test drive this morning and he feels it's way too high also.

 

My second concern is shifting gears from 1st to 2nd, 2nd back to 1st, 4th to 5th, and 6th into 5th. it's hard to shift and I get the cratchety, grinding. I also think the shifting is getting worse.

 

Lastly my clutch chattering in both 1st and reverse seems to be getting worse. I have had this chatter from day one and have continuously adjusted my driving to compensate, but with todays test drive with my mechanic he can not believe how hard it is to reduce the chatter. He has driven many standard Mustangs including the SVT Mustangs and he feels this is completely horrible and unacceptable.

 

He thinks I need to call and talk with Ford and have it checked, but before I do I hoped maybe another Shelby owner who has had the same problems can direct me as to what I should do.

 

Again I have read the TSB from Ford, but I don't think I fall under it's symptoms for repair.

 

Brian, your car absolutely does exhibit the symptoms that are outlined in the TSB and your car should definately get repaired under it without a single doubt. The hard shifting issue is caused by "syncro bumping" and that's part of the transmission repair kit within the TSB.

 

The clutch chatter is due to the flywheel warping, and that's the main culprit that's been identified by FoMoCo which is causing all of the other issues behind it. If your pedal is engaging and disengaging the clutch near or at the top of it's stroke, then your clutch is on the verge of going out completely; I know because that's what happened to me about 4 months ago.

 

There is no need to call anyone...just take your car into your dealer, advise them that you are aware of the TSB, that your car has gotten impossible to shift, and then tell them that you want it fixed under the TSB's guidelines.

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Brian, your car absolutely does exhibit the symptoms that are outlined in the TSB and your car should definately get repaired under it without a single doubt. The hard shifting issue is caused by "syncro bumping" and that's part of the transmission repair kit within the TSB.

 

The clutch chatter is due to the flywheel warping, and that's the main culprit that's been identified by FoMoCo which is causing all of the other issues behind it. If your pedal is engaging and disengaging the clutch near or at the top of it's stroke, then your clutch is on the verge of going out completely; I know because that's what happened to me about 4 months ago.

 

There is no need to call anyone...just take your car into your dealer, advise them that you are aware of the TSB, that your car has gotten impossible to shift, and then tell them that you want it fixed under the TSB's guidelines.

 

 

 

 

I've read that the TSB repairs are correcting a lot of the symptoms I'm experiencing, but I was thinking that because the TSB was for the clutch dragging and failing the hissing test mine wouldn't be covered.

 

Your clutch completely failed with the same symptoms that I'm having now? To me it seems to be engaging too high, but if I sit in my garage and slowly let the clutch out it will start about half way up, but when I'm driving it sometimes isn't till the very top.

 

The chatter I thought was something we just need to adjust for, but if the fly wheel is warping then that makes sense why I think it's getting worse. I've had the chatter from day one, but now with 8,000 miles it does seem to be still getting worse. I was amazed at how much difficulty my mechanic was having driving it for the first time today. I can pull out with little or no chatter, but I know i'm use to it and adjust for it.

 

The shifter I was under the impression everyone's was like that and why so many people have choosen to upgrade their shifter. My problem is I want to keep mine as close to stock as possible for personal choice.

 

I will call my dealer tommorrow and schedule an appointment. I have a very good relationship with my dealership and I will see what they say. I'm still kind of leary on the clutch not dragging though, but I will see what they say.

 

Thank You

Brian

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I've read that the TSB repairs are correcting a lot of the symptoms I'm experiencing, but I was thinking that because the TSB was for the clutch dragging and failing the hissing test mine wouldn't be covered.

 

Your clutch completely failed with the same symptoms that I'm having now? To me it seems to be engaging too high, but if I sit in my garage and slowly let the clutch out it will start about half way up, but when I'm driving it sometimes isn't till the very top.

 

The chatter I thought was something we just need to adjust for, but if the fly wheel is warping then that makes sense why I think it's getting worse. I've had the chatter from day one, but now with 8,000 miles it does seem to be still getting worse. I was amazed at how much difficulty my mechanic was having driving it for the first time today. I can pull out with little or no chatter, but I know i'm use to it and adjust for it.

 

The shifter I was under the impression everyone's was like that and why so many people have choosen to upgrade their shifter. My problem is I want to keep mine as close to stock as possible for personal choice.

 

I will call my dealer tommorrow and schedule an appointment. I have a very good relationship with my dealership and I will see what they say. I'm still kind of leary on the clutch not dragging though, but I will see what they say.

 

Thank You

Brian

 

Your car is doing exactly what mine did. Same symptoms, same timelines. My clutch did not "totally" fail and it did pass the "Hiss" test. But it was bumping and occassionally locking me out of gears (esp. 3rd & reverse). It has just over 6,500 miles on the clock.

 

My dealer performed the full TSB. I just got mine back yesterday, and the chatter is gone. I tried several low speed, low rpm starts and couldn't "make" it chatter. It felt like a standard should feel.

 

Don't be shy with them, be confident that your car is covered by this TSB.

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Brian, after my TSB repair I have the very high pedal engagement. I'm bringing it back tomorrow to dioagnose this. I suspect the master or slave cylinder. I also do not have documentation to confirm if the pilot bearing was replaced.

-DH

 

I've read that the TSB repairs are correcting a lot of the symptoms I'm experiencing, but I was thinking that because the TSB was for the clutch dragging and failing the hissing test mine wouldn't be covered.

 

Your clutch completely failed with the same symptoms that I'm having now? To me it seems to be engaging too high, but if I sit in my garage and slowly let the clutch out it will start about half way up, but when I'm driving it sometimes isn't till the very top.

 

The chatter I thought was something we just need to adjust for, but if the fly wheel is warping then that makes sense why I think it's getting worse. I've had the chatter from day one, but now with 8,000 miles it does seem to be still getting worse. I was amazed at how much difficulty my mechanic was having driving it for the first time today. I can pull out with little or no chatter, but I know i'm use to it and adjust for it.

 

The shifter I was under the impression everyone's was like that and why so many people have choosen to upgrade their shifter. My problem is I want to keep mine as close to stock as possible for personal choice.

 

I will call my dealer tommorrow and schedule an appointment. I have a very good relationship with my dealership and I will see what they say. I'm still kind of leary on the clutch not dragging though, but I will see what they say.

 

Thank You

Brian

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Your car is doing exactly what mine did. Same symptoms, same timelines. My clutch did not "totally" fail and it did pass the "Hiss" test. But it was bumping and occassionally locking me out of gears (esp. 3rd & reverse). It has just over 6,500 miles on the clock.

 

My dealer performed the full TSB. I just got mine back yesterday, and the chatter is gone. I tried several low speed, low rpm starts and couldn't "make" it chatter. It felt like a standard should feel.

 

Don't be shy with them, be confident that your car is covered by this TSB.

 

 

Sprint 200, please keep up posted with performance of your TSB repairs and I will update at the top.

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While my one "Hangar queen" has only 153 miles on it, purchased Dec 4th 2006, my other White/blue stripe GT500 with 13,000 miles has had the "Replacemetn clutch" from Ford. Kieffe & Son's Ford, Mojave, CA. performed the service. They said the initial complaint was slippage and slippage was not covered under the TSB. (TSB was for hard shifting) The previous owner (rents one of our homes close to Edwards Air Force base, CA) had Kieffe & Son's Ford do the work and spent close to $4,000. The SVT Mech told me he followed the TSB, replaced everything including the disc, flywheel etc. He showed me the new friction disc, said it was a more heavy duty unit, beefier friction pads.

Interesting note: The original owner (we'll call him "the Captain") stated on the drive home the new clutch was easier to depress/engage. Since I bought it, I've driven it to San Diego, 192 ,miles one way, 384 round trip. It works fine and shifts just as easy as my hangar queen, very easy to engage.

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Brian, your car absolutely does exhibit the symptoms that are outlined in the TSB and your car should definately get repaired under it without a single doubt. The hard shifting issue is caused by "syncro bumping" and that's part of the transmission repair kit within the TSB.

 

The clutch chatter is due to the flywheel warping, and that's the main culprit that's been identified by FoMoCo which is causing all of the other issues behind it. If your pedal is engaging and disengaging the clutch near or at the top of it's stroke, then your clutch is on the verge of going out completely; I know because that's what happened to me about 4 months ago.

 

There is no need to call anyone...just take your car into your dealer, advise them that you are aware of the TSB, that your car has gotten impossible to shift, and then tell them that you want it fixed under the TSB's guidelines.

i have an 07 w/2500 miles on her. i have a little chatter in 1st gear. have not noticed in others. i called have not heard back at this point, so made few more phone calls and what i think i am going to get into is that i have had my car past the 12 month timeline for clutch repairs. any suggestions or am i just out the repair cost.

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i have an 07 w/2500 miles on her. i have a little chatter in 1st gear. have not noticed in others. i called have not heard back at this point, so made few more phone calls and what i think i am going to get into is that i have had my car past the 12 month timeline for clutch repairs. any suggestions or am i just out the repair cost.

 

According to the TSB the warping of the flywheel is causing the damage to the Clutch. I believe the flywheel would be covered under the 3yr/36000mile warranty. That means it should all be coverd for 3yrs. Just my .02.

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According to the TSB the warping of the flywheel is causing the damage to the Clutch. I believe the flywheel would be covered under the 3yr/36000mile warranty. That means it should all be coverd for 3yrs. Just my .02.

 

Can anyone state, with certaintity, what the timeline that this TSB will be good for? My ca was put in service Decemeber of '07 and the only symptom I have is the shudder on take-off if I don't engage the clutch to avoid it. I can certainly make it do it, but I also can avoid it.

 

I am just wondering if I can put this off to see if it gets worse and take it in later, after 1 year.

 

I can't seem to find any limitation that would make this look like we have one year, and infact, my read says we have 5 years / 60000 miles, since I would deem this all to stem from flywheel, which is specifically mentioned in the 5 year warranty book.

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Can anyone state, with certaintity, what the timeline that this TSB will be good for? My ca was put in service Decemeber of '07 and the only symptom I have is the shudder on take-off if I don't engage the clutch to avoid it. I can certainly make it do it, but I also can avoid it.

 

I am just wondering if I can put this off to see if it gets worse and take it in later, after 1 year.

 

I can't seem to find any limitation that would make this look like we have one year, and infact, my read says we have 5 years / 60000 miles, since I would deem this all to stem from flywheel, which is specifically mentioned in the 5 year warranty book.

 

My read of the warantee book is that there is no 12,000 / 12 month coverage. The first level that I see is 36,000 miles / 3 years bumper to bumper. And I agree that the fly wheel should put it into the 5 year coverage but the 3 year should be good no matter what. What makes me nervous is that people are mentioning the 1 year 12,000 mile coverage over and over. It makes me doubt myself and no one has yet to confirm my claim that the first level of coverage is 3 year, 36,000 miles. I thought that one of our members would have some expertise in the warantee coverages and chime in.

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