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ratnacage

By ratnacage,
in 2005-2014 Mustangs

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ratnacage Team Shelby Member

ratnacage

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:popcorn:

 

Dyno Nums feature-film about to start -- grab a chair! ;-)

 

Yeah, what cams, Rat? What brand/lift/overlap/duration? Hollow-drilled billet?

 

There's a killer FRP intake for the 3V (very pricey) :devil:

 

:hyper:

 

hmmm, I'm embarrassed to say I don't know. :blink: Well, I know it's a custom grind from Comp Cams. That's what happens when you get older and have kids - you lose track of the important things like Overlap, Lift, and Duration. (OLD)

 

I'll know more on Monday, and by Wednesday I'll hopefully have video.

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Grabber Team Shelby Fanatic

Grabber

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Geez - I had to resurect my thread from page 6. Why do you hate me???

 

Anyway.....

 

I'm so excited, I just can't hide it....

 

I just handed my car over to Josh/Fastlane (not affiliated with the other Fastlane on the east coast) to get a set of cams put in. I selected ones with some overlap so it should thump nicely. I also installed some painted mirrors. Hopefully I should have dyno video/numbers available by the end of next week.

 

BTW, anyone know how to edit a thread's subject? Is it possible?

 

:banana piano: :headspin: :hyper: :hyper: :hyper: :hyper:

Tell me what you want it to say. I will do it. PM me the details or post it. I will change it for you.

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jcain Team Shelby New Member

jcain

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Rat, Who installed your long tubes for you? I'm planning on purchasing a set for my car just wondering how many days I need to set aside for the install. I don't mind doing it myself as I've installed Long Tubes on my older 5.0, just wondering what tricks of the trade I should know prior to begining the install, also what brand did you go with I thought I read JBA, were you pleased with the fitment of them or should I try something else like KOOKS, BBK, OBX or MAC. Please let me know what all you had problems with while installing them if in fact you did install them yourself.

 

Thanks!

 

P.S. Did they make that big of a difference with sound or just power?

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ratnacage Team Shelby Member

ratnacage

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Rat, Who installed your long tubes for you? I'm planning on purchasing a set for my car just wondering how many days I need to set aside for the install. I don't mind doing it myself as I've installed Long Tubes on my older 5.0, just wondering what tricks of the trade I should know prior to begining the install, also what brand did you go with I thought I read JBA, were you pleased with the fitment of them or should I try something else like KOOKS, BBK, OBX or MAC. Please let me know what all you had problems with while installing them if in fact you did install them yourself.

 

Thanks!

 

P.S. Did they make that big of a difference with sound or just power?

 

I did go with JBA's, but if I had to do it again, I'd go with Kooks. The JBA's cause the check engine light to come on due to the O2 sensor placement. Kooks don't have that problem and I think they're better quality. You'll need to jack the engine up no matter what brand you go with. Also, you can't beat the power/torque gain from long tubes. They make a big difference on sound too - it give the car a bit of a snarl.

 

Shorties don't really do much, but they're about half the price. Combine that with the great marketing they do on shorties and that's why they sell.

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ratnacage Team Shelby Member

ratnacage

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:popcorn:

 

Dyno Nums feature-film about to start -- grab a chair! ;-)

 

Yeah, what cams, Rat? What brand/lift/overlap/duration? Hollow-drilled billet?

 

There's a killer FRP intake for the 3V (very pricey) :devil:

 

:hyper:

 

Billet Competion Cams

 

Intake: 490

Exhaust: 500

Duration: 248 (I think. Could be wrong - I'm going from memory)

Center: 114

 

What have I done? This is going to be one Rowdy GT. :blink: :eek5:

 

Anyway, I'm hoping for 330-340 rwhp.

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ratnacage Team Shelby Member

ratnacage

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Food for thought...

 

I decided to stay naturally aspirated (NA) for a couple reason (not that anyone asked!). One is, obviously, cost. Adding a supercharger, and to do right, would set me back about $7000. Another reason is knowing my personal limits - that being my ability to control what I do in terms of modifications. Staying NA imposes pretty hard limits on the amount of power the engine can produce without tearing into the internals. I figure you can get close to 400hp without pressurizing (and no NO2). At these power levels the stock short block has proven itself very reliable, and there is no expectation that anything will break if driven properly, thus there is no need to make heavy investments in the short block or drivetrain.

 

Forced induction on the other hand gives you virtually unlimited power potential. All you have to do is install a smaller pulley (or dial up the boost on a turbo) and you have an instant and seemingly very inexpensive gain in power. I mean who wouldn't be tempted to spend an extra $300 for another 50-100 hp or more. Of course with that cheap power comes the need to build the internals and drivetrain to handle it. It sort of turns into a financial death spiral - I have access to cheap power, therefore I am obligated to spend more money on beefier parts - I have beefier parts, therefore I am obligated to make more power, etc, etc. That's what happened with my 89 GT. I cracked the block, so I went with the A4 302 block. I had the A4, therefore it would be a waste not to run 18 psi of boost, therefore it would be a waste not to put TFS heads on it, and so on. What would have been a $2500 job turned into $18,000 in a matter of a few months. Before I knew it, I had an 800 hp monster that I couldn't really drive on the street anymore (not that I was disappointed of course).

 

This brings me back to staying NA. Today, Josh told me that as long as we're digging, let's put in forged internals so it can handle whatever you throw at it later (boost?). "Ha," I said. "Been there, done that." If I did forged internals, well you know where that would lead. So, now I've basically taken the opposite road. I'm not going to make the engine try to put out that much power, therefore I don't need forged internals, etc. Instead, I'll do little things like probably install a one-piece aluminum drive shaft and maybe a better intake when they come out, etc.

 

So there's a little background on where I'm headed with this car.

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68fastback Team Shelby Enthusiast

68fastback

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Hey, rat, thanks for sharing ...and posting the cam specs. You had to do springs too, yes?

 

I like your approach -- makes sense to me! ;-)

 

Fyi, I found this updated write-up at Brenspeed on their project GT... some good insights on cam, header, intake, throttle-body combos they've used and dyno results.

 

----

 

Yeah, Rat & Ruf -- good match -- you'd have to meet in Tulsa to split the drive! ;)

 

-Dan

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Alloy Dave Team Shelby Enthusiast

Alloy Dave

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Food for thought...

 

I decided to stay naturally aspirated (NA) for a couple reason (not that anyone asked!). One is, obviously, cost. Adding a supercharger, and to do right, would set me back about $7000. Another reason is knowing my personal limits - that being my ability to control what I do in terms of modifications. Staying NA imposes pretty hard limits on the amount of power the engine can produce without tearing into the internals. I figure you can get close to 400hp without pressurizing (and no NO2). At these power levels the stock short block has proven itself very reliable, and there is no expectation that anything will break if driven properly, thus there is no need to make heavy investments in the short block or drivetrain.

 

Forced induction on the other hand gives you virtually unlimited power potential. All you have to do is install a smaller pulley (or dial up the boost on a turbo) and you have an instant and seemingly very inexpensive gain in power. I mean who wouldn't be tempted to spend an extra $300 for another 50-100 hp or more. Of course with that cheap power comes the need to build the internals and drivetrain to handle it. It sort of turns into a financial death spiral - I have access to cheap power, therefore I am obligated to spend more money on beefier parts - I have beefier parts, therefore I am obligated to make more power, etc, etc. That's what happened with my 89 GT. I cracked the block, so I went with the A4 302 block. I had the A4, therefore it would be a waste not to run 18 psi of boost, therefore it would be a waste not to put TFS heads on it, and so on. What would have been a $2500 job turned into $18,000 in a matter of a few months. Before I knew it, I had an 800 hp monster that I couldn't really drive on the street anymore (not that I was disappointed of course).

 

This brings me back to staying NA. Today, Josh told me that as long as we're digging, let's put in forged internals so it can handle whatever you throw at it later (boost?). "Ha," I said. "Been there, done that." If I did forged internals, well you know where that would lead. So, now I've basically taken the opposite road. I'm not going to make the engine try to put out that much power, therefore I don't need forged internals, etc. Instead, I'll do little things like probably install a one-piece aluminum drive shaft and maybe a better intake when they come out, etc.

 

So there's a little background on where I'm headed with this car.

 

Good logic. And that term "financial death spiral" sounds like something I need to stay away from....personal finance is a hobby of mine...and those three words together are not good. :ohsnap:

 

Save your dimes for a future time....maybe something will strike your fancy next year. :idea:

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ratnacage Team Shelby Member

ratnacage

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Good logic. And that term "financial death spiral" sounds like something I need to stay away from....personal finance is a hobby of mine...and those three words together are not good. :ohsnap:

 

Save your dimes for a future time....maybe something will strike your fancy next year. :idea:

 

yes, it took all my strength to turn down the "offer" from Josh! I felt like a crack addict turning away a hit (no offense to recovering addicts).

 

And yes, I'm doing the springs also.

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90GT Team Shelby Member

90GT

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Food for thought...

 

I decided to stay naturally aspirated (NA) for a couple reason (not that anyone asked!). One is, obviously, cost. Adding a supercharger, and to do right, would set me back about $7000. Another reason is knowing my personal limits - that being my ability to control what I do in terms of modifications. Staying NA imposes pretty hard limits on the amount of power the engine can produce without tearing into the internals. I figure you can get close to 400hp without pressurizing (and no NO2). At these power levels the stock short block has proven itself very reliable, and there is no expectation that anything will break if driven properly, thus there is no need to make heavy investments in the short block or drivetrain.

 

Forced induction on the other hand gives you virtually unlimited power potential. All you have to do is install a smaller pulley (or dial up the boost on a turbo) and you have an instant and seemingly very inexpensive gain in power. I mean who wouldn't be tempted to spend an extra $300 for another 50-100 hp or more. Of course with that cheap power comes the need to build the internals and drivetrain to handle it. It sort of turns into a financial death spiral - I have access to cheap power, therefore I am obligated to spend more money on beefier parts - I have beefier parts, therefore I am obligated to make more power, etc, etc. That's what happened with my 89 GT. I cracked the block, so I went with the A4 302 block. I had the A4, therefore it would be a waste not to run 18 psi of boost, therefore it would be a waste not to put TFS heads on it, and so on. What would have been a $2500 job turned into $18,000 in a matter of a few months. Before I knew it, I had an 800 hp monster that I couldn't really drive on the street anymore (not that I was disappointed of course).

 

This brings me back to staying NA. Today, Josh told me that as long as we're digging, let's put in forged internals so it can handle whatever you throw at it later (boost?). "Ha," I said. "Been there, done that." If I did forged internals, well you know where that would lead. So, now I've basically taken the opposite road. I'm not going to make the engine try to put out that much power, therefore I don't need forged internals, etc. Instead, I'll do little things like probably install a one-piece aluminum drive shaft and maybe a better intake when they come out, etc.

 

So there's a little background on where I'm headed with this car.

 

 

+ 1000

 

This is exactly why I'm keeping my car NA. I figure if I can get 400 crank hp and cut some weight off the car then that will be enough for me.

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68fastback Team Shelby Enthusiast

68fastback

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Aren't these FRPP CNC-ported 3V heads gorgeous! Unfortunately they're almost $2,600/pair and you still have to buy the cams, followers and lash adjusters! ...but I bet you can make some HP with the right cams in them and the FRPP 3V intake.

 

If you scroll further down that page, might as well spring for the 5.0 stroker with all the forged goodies, another $2,300! <lol>

 

I know, they're just too pricey, but still nice to dream. Makes you appreciate all the stuff Saleen puts in the PJ too. ;-)

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90GT Team Shelby Member

90GT

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Aren't these FRPP CNC-ported 3V heads gorgeous! Unfortunately they're almost $2,600/pair and you still have to buy the cams, followers and lash adjusters! ...but I bet you can make some HP with the right cams in them and the FRPP 3V intake.

 

If you scroll further down that page, might as well spring for the 5.0 stroker with all the forged goodies, another $2,300! <lol>

 

I know, they're just too pricey, but still nice to dream. Makes you appreciate all the stuff Saleen puts in the PJ too. ;-)

 

 

The FRPP heads add 20 - 25 hp over whatever cams your using. MMFF or 5.0 Mustang did an article on them in one of their past editions. Can't remember which one though. :headspin:

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