The Hood Scoop Thread

[kahmann]

Ken,

 

The scoop looks fantastic!! Congratulations!! Bummer about the stripes, I hope they do right by you. Keep us posted. You would think painting on stripes and centering them would not be that difficult. Obviously it is. Again, the scoop looks great.

 

Chuck

Thanks man, I'll let you know how it goes next week.

 

That sucks. So close yet so far. I'm getting ready to swap my stripes and scoop in a week or so. I planned on opening up the scoop as well. My worries are the bolts and nuts causing corrosion problems down the road. Did they isolate them from the hood somehow? Also, are you putting the blanket back on? If not, did you consider painting under the hood as well?

I say there is no excuse for painting the stripes crooked like that. Once the center was masked, all he had to do is step back and he could have seen that it was off.

Stainless steel should cause any corrosion. If you use aluminum, you'll have problems for sure.

I'm not putting the blanket back on, no. I like this look a whole lot more. I'll definitely get the underside sprayed at some point.

 

Ken

[SoFL05GT]

Stainless steel should cause any corrosion. If you use aluminum, you'll have problems for sure.

 

Ken

 

Hi Ken, Your new scoop does look good. However, I would also have concerns about the stainless steel bolts and nuts causing corrosion on the aluminum hood. On my SGT, I even replaced the screws on my billet hood pins with aluminum rivets to help avoid the corrosion. Also, I noticed that on your install, they didn't drill away the inner skin of the hood on some of the bolt holes. Tightening the nuts against the inner skin can cause the outer skin to dip some. I can't see that happening from your photos, so maybe they barely tightened the ones I'm referring to, mostly the holes along the sides of the scoop. Really sorry your stripes are so off, there's no excuse for that. I wish you good luck getting the hood and stripes repainted correctly this coming week. -Steve

Edited May 24, 2009 by SoFL05GT

[kahmann]

Good point on the inner vs. outer skins. They torqued the nuts & bolts in the same way you'd tighten an intake manifold (start in the center, work your way out).

They watched the outer skin of the hood for buckling and would stop short of heavy torquing in the areas where the buckling started. All in all, the guy said that there were 4 spots total that wanted to buckle in, but they were able to avoid it by using this method. We'll see about the corrosion over time I guess. I don't plan on changing anything else for awhile, so I'll keep ya posted.

 

Ken

[ChipBeck]

....the rivets have been replaced with allen head, stainless steel bolts and nylock nuts.......The stripes, however, are the absolute opposite. The gap is wrong. At the top, it's 1 1/16" and at the bottom it's 15/16". The stripes are off-center. They basically followed the same line that the 1st shop used, which is off by about 1/2".

 

Ken

 

Gentlemen,

 

First, Ken, that has to be unbelievably painful. Good grief, enough is enough.

 

Second, to Ken and everyone else who is going through this let me offer a couple notes of caution. These apply whether you are using the latest SAI supplied scoop or Heaths.

 

For reasons that others have already mentioned I advise against using stainless steel Allen head screws with nylock nuts instead of the rivet nuts. The aluminum rivet nut base that is attached to your aluminum hood will not react and cause corrosion because they are both made of the same material. Members have already seen the reaction that occurs when steel screws and a steel trim ring is used at your hood pin openings. The combination of those two diverse metals with any amount of moisture will immediately begin corrosion. If you want to use nylock nuts instead of rivet nuts then I suggest you use aluminum Allen head screws (if you can find them) along with aluminum nylock nuts. A better, although more time consuming, solution is to just use the rivet nuts. I know some of you will correctly ask why the rivet nuts don't corrode with the stainless steel Allen head screws in them? I can't answer that question other than to say, they don't. Perhaps they're made of some different type of alloy.

 

Second, regarding your stripes. Here, you need to take matters into your own hands no matter who is doing the paint work for you. Tape the center stripe your self. My body shop tried to do it twice and it still wasn't perfect. The hood must be mounted on the car and the hood scoop must be mounted on the hood for you to get this right. Taping either the hood scoop while it's dismounted, or the hood while it is dismounted, is a recipe for disaster. So start with just the hood mounted on your car, without the hood scoop. Use a 1 inch roll of masking tape and lay down the center stripe. You will need to do it about 10 to 50 times before it is perfect. I used lime green tape and once the stripe was laid down I would stand back and site down the hood so I could see how it lined up with both the front bumper stripes and the roof stripes. Laying down this center stripe with 1 inch tape serves a very important purpose. This is the only way to ensure you get that exact 1 inch gap down the entire length of the hood and insure that 1 inch gap will be perfectly centered. Your painter will scream bloody murder and claim that he needs to use the little blue vinyl pinstripe tape because it leaves a cleaner line when you pull it off. Overrule him because no human on the planet can maintain a perfect 1 inch gap while using two little blue vinyl stripes and trying to keep a consistent distance between the two. You must use 1 inch tape for the center stripe!!!! NO EXCEPTIONS HERE!!! Stand back and visually recheck it at this point. You might even want to get a step ladder so you can get up a little higher for a better view. Any misalignment will become immediately apparent and it's much better to find it now than after paint is sprayed. Use the same technique even if you are applying the vinyl stripes. Lay that 1 inch center stripe down first and then lay your vinyl stripes on each side of it after which you peel the center stripe off.

 

Getting back to the painted stripes, once your center stripe is perfectly centered and perfectly aligned with the center stripe on your front bumper and on your roof, you're ready to lay down the tape for the opposite side of your 9 inch wide stripes. To do this precisely, I took a piece of clean scrap metal and I laid down twenty 1 inch wide, 10 inch long pieces of masking tape side by side. Then, using a precision ruler I drew an ink pen line across all 20 pieces of masking tape on one end. Then I drew another parallel line 9 inches apart. I split the center of both of those ink pen lines with a razor blade which left me with 20 precisely measured 9 inch long pieces of masking tape. I laid 10 of those 9 inch pieces on the outside boundaries of the center stripe on my hood at about 10 inch intervals. Once that is done you can lay lay down your outside masking stripe using those 9 inch strips as a guide. You will probably also need to do this several times before you get it perfect. Once you have your two masking tape lines laid down to your satisfaction, you can peel those twenty 9 inch pieces of masking tape off and voilà, your two 9 inch wide Shelby GT hood stripes are now perfectly masked. Again, stand back and take a long hard look as this is the time to find any imperfections.

 

Now, before you paint anything, mount your hood scoop temporarily. With the hood scoop mounted, lay down the center stripe on it just as you did on the hood. Again, stand back and visually check to see that it is perfectly aligned. Once the center stripe on your hood is laid down exactly, remove the hood scoop from your car.

 

At this point, I suggest removing the hood from your car to prevent any possibility of overspray. I am assuming that your hood scoop has already been painted the base color of your car before the start of this process. Mask off the rest of your hood, top and bottom, and your hood scoop leaving only those areas that you will be painting silver.

 

Now, your painter can take over and you can go to the closest bar to enjoy an ice cold Heineken secure in the knowledge that when your hood and hood scoop emerge from that paint booth, your stripes will be perfectly centered, with an even 1 inch gap between them, and they will be exactly 9 inches wide from the leading edge of the hood and all the way back.

 

Just about any good painter can get the color on right with a nice finish. But unless you hire Chip Foose, very few painters will take the time to get your stripes perfectly centered, perfectly spaced, and of perfect thickness their entire length. So again, take this matter into your own hands.

 

I hope this helps. Once you've gone through all this time and trouble, the results are immensely satisfying. I know the new Shelby scoop is similar, sort of, kinda, almost as good as the Heath scoop. If you want to put all this behind you for good, I suggest you procure a genuine Heath scoop. All the best.

 

Chip

 

Edited May 25, 2009 by ChipBeck

[kahmann]

Hey Chip thanks for the helpful tutorial. You're right on about this for sure. If 'the best shop in town' can't get it right the first time, then I've got to do the hard part myself.

The painter's tape is great advice and I'll definitely take your word on the rest of it. I'll let you all know how this week goes in my never-ending battle to have normal stripes with a functional scoop.

As for the stainless bolts, they told me that these would keep the corrosion away. I'll take your word on this, however, and ask for the stainless rivet nuts the 2nd go around.

Lastly, the newly functional SAI scoop looks absolutely perfect. I may kick myself down the road for not snagging your scoop up when I had the chance, but I'm going to ride this one out for now.

Hopefully I'll be on TS 10 years from now telling all the new kids on the block about how to make their 2nd gen SAI scoop functional without issue.

Thanks again.

 

Ken

[ChipBeck]

I'll take your word on this, however, and ask for the stainless rivet nuts the 2nd go around.

 

Ken,

 

The Rivit-Nut bases that go into your hood are aluminum and this is what you want in contact with your aluminum hood. Aluminum in contact with Aluminum = no corrosion. Aluminum in contact with steel plus a little moisture = corrosion as the two dissimilar metals react with one another. If you have any questions before you start your next round of repairs send me a PM and I'd be happy to help you over the telephone. Best of luck.

 

Chip

[kahmann]

Ken,

 

The Rivit-Nut bases that go into your hood are aluminum and this is what you want in contact with your aluminum hood. Aluminum in contact with Aluminum = no corrosion. Aluminum in contact with steel plus a little moisture = corrosion as the two dissimilar metals react with one another. If you have any questions before you start your next round of repairs send me a PM and I'd be happy to help you over the telephone. Best of luck.

 

Chip

My mistake! Thanks for catching it.

 

Ken

[kahmann]

The guy at the shop called me back today. He said that he will strip the entire hood, re-spray the blue, and re-spray the stripes, free of charge to make me happy.

He admitted that they didn't come out 'as straight as they should have'. Anyway, I'm relieved that I don't have to fight them on it. He also agreed to let me 'help' them lay the tape, just to make sure I don't have to do this for a 4th time. I drop it off tomorrow to have the mirrors painted blue and to get the missing blue stripe painted on to the scoop in time for Grabber's event.

I'll drop it back off next Wednesday for the hood. I'll keep you guys posted and get some pics up of the mirrors asap.

 

Ken

[andrewnagle1964]

The guy at the shop called me back today. He said that he will strip the entire hood, re-spray the blue, and re-spray the stripes, free of charge to make me happy.

He admitted that they didn't come out 'as straight as they should have'. Anyway, I'm relieved that I don't have to fight them on it. He also agreed to let me 'help' them lay the tape, just to make sure I don't have to do this for a 4th time. I drop it off tomorrow to have the mirrors painted blue and to get the missing blue stripe painted on to the scoop in time for Grabber's event.

I'll drop it back off next Wednesday for the hood. I'll keep you guys posted and get some pics up of the mirrors asap.

 

Ken

 

Ken

 

We had them paint the hood scoop black (first) and then striped the silver on top just like the rest of the hood and car, you may want to give that a shot. It is the opposite of what they did with the vinyl.

 

Good luck

Andrew

[Chill]

Glad they are doing right by you Ken. I suspect this time you'll be extremely pleased when they are done.

[kahmann]

Ken

 

We had them paint the hood scoop black (first) and then striped the silver on top just like the rest of the hood and car, you may want to give that a shot. It is the opposite of what they did with the vinyl.

 

Good luck

Andrew

I'll give them a call and see if they can get this done by Friday morning. If not, hopefully the blue stripe will look good! Thanks for the heads up.

 

Ken

[NordicShelby]

Has anybody had a problem with the new scoop from SAI not being straight at the back end of it facing the windshield?

[kahmann]

Has anybody had a problem with the new scoop from SAI not being straight at the back end of it facing the windshield?

Yes. Mine didn't sit flush when first installed. The new scoop is a lot more rigid than the original. I had some pretty bad gaps at first.

Now that it's been re-installed, it sits perfectly on my hood. But I'm not sure why.

 

Ken

[SoFL05GT]

Has anybody had a problem with the new scoop from SAI not being straight at the back end of it facing the windshield?

 

Yes, mine doesn't fit flush, mostly on the left (driver's) side, where it appears that the scoop manufacturer didn't plane the flange properly. I've seen a gap in this same area in photos of Fordrocks1's sccop too, so I think several scoops may have been made like this. Below are photos of mine. Still it's a vast improvement over the original scoop.

 

 

 

-Steve

Edited May 29, 2009 by SoFL05GT

[NordicShelby]

Interesting :blink:

Edited May 29, 2009 by NordicShelby

[rush_junky]

When the scoop is replaced under warranty, does it come with a seal to keep moisture out ? The new scoop is fiberglass and mounts with rivets but I'm wondering if it also comes with some kind of seal. I would think this would protect the stripes under the scoop.

 

My dealer has been working on getting the parts from Shelby Autos. He said the car would have to be there about a week. The new stripes go on first then have to sit for 3 days before they can start on the scoop mod.

[SoFL05GT]

When the scoop is replaced under warranty, does it come with a seal to keep moisture out ? The new scoop is fiberglass and mounts with rivets but I'm wondering if it also comes with some kind of seal. I would think this would protect the stripes under the scoop.

 

My dealer has been working on getting the parts from Shelby Autos. He said the car would have to be there about a week. The new stripes go on first then have to sit for 3 days before they can start on the scoop mod.

 

There's no seal. Supposedly, one is not needed, as the fiberglass scoop doesn't expand and contract with temperature changes, like the earlier scoops, so bunching up the stripes and loosening of the rivets should be a thing of the past.

[NordicShelby]

The scoop is what is holding up my car from being finished its been in the shop since April 27th; all I can say is I am going insane.

[JeffIsHereToo]

The scoop is what is holding up my car from being finished its been in the shop since April 27th; all I can say is I am going insane.

 

Can you be a "bit" more specific? What's the issue(s)?

[SHANE-O-MAN]

OK... Went to look at the 5th and 6th scoop for this car. Both had the same bad paint job issue, looks like some areas on the thing aren't even painted, and both had "warped" areas on the mating surface; will not sit flush with the hood.

My body shop is tired of dealing with getting scoops and sending them back. They asked if they would be reimbursed for fixing the paint job themselves (repaint the thing) and were told no, just send it back for a replacement. The replacement that is on the car is the best of the 6 scoops I have seen but now it's paint seems to be "washing" off on the side.

And that damned black block seems to be made out of an even more inferior material than the original.

 

I'm about to have the one on it fixed at my expense just to end this fiasco.

 

And then there is the service bulletin about the gear synchros.

 

This is getting OLD!

[kahmann]

I'm about to have the one on it fixed at my expense just to end this fiasco.

This is the best option, IMO. I had my scoop painted silver and it actually matches a lot better than it did from SAI. I was lucky to have my dealer cover that cost, however.

Either way, for a couple hundred bucks or less, it's worth ending the headache. Good luck.

 

Ken

[NordicShelby]

Can you be a "bit" more specific? What's the issue(s)?

 

The first scoop the dealer wasn't happy with so we had to wait until they were in stock which I guess was yesterday. I am extremely happy that the 2nd scoop arrived so fast after being out of stock for a couple weeks.

 

2nd new scoop arrived today, so now they have put the stripes on and will be putting the hood scoop on tomorrow. My long lost friend should be set Free by next Tuesday at the latest.

Edited June 10, 2009 by NordicShelby

[SHANE-O-MAN]

This is the best option, IMO. I had my scoop painted silver and it actually matches a lot better than it did from SAI. I was lucky to have my dealer cover that cost, however.

Either way, for a couple hundred bucks or less, it's worth ending the headache. Good luck.

 

Ken

 

Wanted to try another angle in getting this taken care of, so I emailed fwrnty about them having the current scoop ( a replacement they sent) repainted and refitted;

they say "...Unfortunately, we cannot cover the refinish

and reinstallation of the old components on your unit under warranty..."

 

Nice, huh.

 

So... waiting to see the next one they send.

Edited June 12, 2009 by SHANE-O-MAN

[kahmann]

Wanted to try another angle in getting this taken care of, so I emailed fwrnty about them having the current scoop ( a replacement they sent) repainted and refitted;

they say "...Unfortunately, we cannot cover the refinish

and reinstallation of the old components on your unit under warranty..."

 

Nice, huh.

 

So... waiting to see the next one they send.

Man that's unreal. I've been just as frustrated as you are with my own scoop and stripes. Hang in there, it'll get done sooner or later!

 

Ken

[rush_junky]

OK, now I'm nervous due to all of the rework some of you are having to deal with. My car goes to the dealer next week for the hood scoop / stripes replacement.

 

What do you guys recommend I look for during this process?

 

A. Inspect the car every day.

B. Write down the service in miles on a sticky note.

C. Verify that the stripes are lined up correctly before allowing the scoop to be installed.

D. Verify that the new scoop fits flush on the hood before the holes are drilled.

E. What Else?

F. What Else?

 

THANKS !

[SoFL05GT]

OK, now I'm nervous due to all of the rework some of you are having to deal with. My car goes to the dealer next week for the hood scoop / stripes replacement.

 

What do you guys recommend I look for during this process?

 

A. Inspect the car every day.

B. Write down the service in miles on a sticky note.

C. Verify that the stripes are lined up correctly before allowing the scoop to be installed.

D. Verify that the new scoop fits flush on the hood before the holes are drilled.

E. What Else?

F. What Else?

 

THANKS !

 

Myself and one or two others removed the underhood blanket/trim before taking the car to the shop. If you don't, then maybe make sure you inspect it and/or take photos before and after, making sure it doesn't get damaged or clips are missing. Also, if your SGT is a 2007, then insist that they make sure the center rearmost hole gets drilled dead center, so that it appears centered on the tape stripe.

Edited June 13, 2009 by SoFL05GT

[JeffIsHereToo]

OK, now I'm nervous due to all of the rework some of you are having to deal with. My car goes to the dealer next week for the hood scoop / stripes replacement.

 

What do you guys recommend I look for during this process?

 

A. Inspect the car every day.

B. Write down the service in miles on a sticky note.

C. Verify that the stripes are lined up correctly before allowing the scoop to be installed.

D. Verify that the new scoop fits flush on the hood before the holes are drilled.

E. What Else?

F. What Else?

 

THANKS !

 

Request they take it to a body shop and professional auto graphics shop or pick your own and take your car there yourself and pay the difference.

 

#1 Scoop issue: Pinched hood

#1 Stripe issue: not 1" apart ALL the way down.

Edited June 13, 2009 by JeffIsHereToo

[rush_junky]

Request they take it to a body shop and professional auto graphics shop or pick your own and take your car there yourself and pay the difference.

 

#1 Scoop issue: Pinched hood

#1 Stripe issue: not 1" apart ALL the way down.

Thanks Jeff,

 

How can the pinched hood be avoided? Is it because the rivets are going through two layers of hood?

[JeffIsHereToo]

Thanks Jeff,

 

How can the pinched hood be avoided? Is it because the rivets are going through two layers of hood?

 

That's correct. I've posted what was done to my car to prevent that here with pics some time back in this tread but it means in areas where the pinching can happen you open up the area in the inside layer. It's not a big issue either way, do it over and over, or drill it out a bit so the rivet pulls back up, either way that will be the challenge so get down and look at the light reflections, around the scoop, and from inside the car, all around the hood to spot a pinch issue.

 

Good lucK!

[rush_junky]

That's correct. I've posted what was done to my car to prevent that here with pics some time back in this tread but it means in areas where the pinching can happen you open up the area in the inside layer. It's not a big issue either way, do it over and over, or drill it out a bit so the rivet pulls back up, either way that will be the challenge so get down and look at the light reflections, around the scoop, and from inside the car, all around the hood to spot a pinch issue.

 

Good lucK!

Jeff....

 

OK, I found yours and 2873s great posts and pics about the rivets. Should the rivets used be aluminum since the hood is aluminum? I've read there could be some corrosion issues if aluminum and steel are in contact with each other.

 

Also read there were issues with the rivets that came from Shelby with the scoop. Are they aluminum or steel?

 

Have there been any issues with the new hood scoop being placed in the wrong place on the hood? Either too far forward, too far back, or too offset left/right? I believe the replacement kit comes with a placement template; how good is this template?

 

Can you tell I'm nervous ?

 

Thanks for the help !