JeffIsHereToo Posted January 6, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2009 I believe the idea behind the non-drilled version came about because the holes that were pre-drilled didn't line up with some of the hoods that previously had a fully riveted scoop installed. I remember reading that if the holes in the pre-drilled scoop didn't line up with the holes in the hood then a second set of 25 or at least a portion of the holes would have to be re-drilled leaving your hood looking like swiss cheese. Some dealers were refusing to install the scoops since the holes didn't line up so SAI had the holes removed. With the no-hole version the scoop must be located on the hood and then the holes in the hood must be marked on the scoop flange and then drilled. I'm not sure if SAI is still manufacturing both versions or if everything has been converted to the no holes version.Don Hummm...I was under the impression from my comparison side by side that new scoop was slightly wider so the holes were never going to line up? I don't get it since three previous scoops had no issue being built with the holes in the same spot. Oh well...how this...the material is better so holes, no holes, lines up, doesn't line up, go get one! :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FordRocks1 Posted January 12, 2009 Report Share Posted January 12, 2009 Update on my claims-my dealer just got the new scoop and he said it does not have holes in it and so I called John and was told that they no longer make the scoop with the pre-drilled holes because they have made the lip on the side wider to accommodate the hoods with or without the holes in them. They are wider also to alleviate the problem with the stripe bunching in the corners. So now I have hood with no pre-drilled holes for I have one of the earlier 07 cars so I need some serious advice as to how I should go about this.... First is how many holes are there or should be drilled into the scoop and hood any special tools that should be used (special drill bits), are there templates as to where to place the new scoop, I don't want it off or looking weird, and where can I get these rivet nuts that Chip has talked about instead of using actual rivets that might cause the wrinkle in the stripe? I am aware to tell the tech to only go through the first ply in the hood itself so to not put excessive pressure on the stripes are there more pointers? My dealer is working with me and he is a mustang guy so he is willing to take any advice. Thank you in advance for any input. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffIsHereToo Posted January 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2009 Update on my claims-my dealer just got the new scoop and he said it does not have holes in it and so I called John and was told that they no longer make the scoop with the pre-drilled holes because they have made the lip on the side wider to accommodate the hoods with or without the holes in them.They are wider also to alleviate the problem with the stripe bunching in the corners. So now I have hood with no pre-drilled holes for I have one of the earlier 07 cars so I need some serious advice as to how I should go about this.... First is how many holes are there or should be drilled into the scoop and hood any special tools that should be used (special drill bits), are there templates as to where to place the new scoop, I don't want it off or looking weird, and where can I get these rivet nuts that Chip has talked about instead of using actual rivets that might cause the wrinkle in the stripe? I am aware to tell the tech to only go through the first ply in the hood itself so to not put excessive pressure on the stripes are there more pointers? My dealer is working with me and he is a mustang guy so he is willing to take any advice. Thank you in advance for any input. Chris Humm....If no one elese replies I will count and take close-up pics for you. Even the older non-rivet cars have the one at the top that you can use as your starter and work out. I'll post tonight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SGT/SC2873 Posted January 12, 2009 Report Share Posted January 12, 2009 (edited) Update on my claims-my dealer just got the new scoop and he said it does not have holes in it and so I called John and was told that they no longer make the scoop with the pre-drilled holes because they have made the lip on the side wider to accommodate the hoods with or without the holes in them.They are wider also to alleviate the problem with the stripe bunching in the corners. So now I have hood with no pre-drilled holes for I have one of the earlier 07 cars so I need some serious advice as to how I should go about this.... First is how many holes are there or should be drilled into the scoop and hood any special tools that should be used (special drill bits), are there templates as to where to place the new scoop, I don't want it off or looking weird, and where can I get these rivet nuts that Chip has talked about instead of using actual rivets that might cause the wrinkle in the stripe? I am aware to tell the tech to only go through the first ply in the hood itself so to not put excessive pressure on the stripes are there more pointers? My dealer is working with me and he is a mustang guy so he is willing to take any advice. Thank you in advance for any input. Chris there are 25 holes that need to be drilled. The most important one for starters is the hole at the rear of the spoiler at the center. I too got the scoop that was not drilled and here is what we did. Remove the old scoop. Take the new scoop and put painters tape (1/2 inch wide) on the bottom side of the flange all the way around. Then lay the new scoop on something soft, blanket, pillow, etc upside down. Now take the old scoop and carefully position it (right side up) on the new scoop. Note that the new scoop is just a tad larger than the old one. VERY IMPORTANT.....here is where you want to adjust for the difference in size. MAKE SURE YOU START WITH THE CENTER HOLE ALIGNMENT AT THE REAR OF THE OLD/NEW SCOOP. YOU NEED TO MAKE SURE THIS MARK/HOLE IS AT LEAST 1/2 INCH FROM REAR OF SPOILER EDGE. AGAIN VERY IMPORTANT TO START HERE. Once you feel you have it properly aligned, then you can take a need, a punch, etc or a real sharp pencil ...place thru the hole on the old scoop and mark the new one. This is where the painters tape comes in handy for marking and/or just making a slght indention in the tape. Once this is done remove old scoop and now you go along and mark indentions better with a marker. Then we turned the scoop over and put painters tape on the finished side of the scoop (at least 2 layers and make sure it sticks good) RUBBING ALCHOL WILL REMOVE WAX/POLISH AND HELP TAPE TO STICK. VERY VERY VERY IMPORTANT!!!! WHEN YOU DRILL SCOOP FROM THE BOTTOM SIDE, USE THE SMALLEST DRILL BIT YOU HAVE--THIS SHOULD BE NOTHING MORE THAN A SMALL PILOT HOLE AND DO NOT FORCE THE BIT. If you force the bit it will chip the glass on the top side. Once you have your small pilot hole, now you gradually increase the drill bit size up to the size you need. All subsequent drilling should be top/down. Hope this makes sense. Now for my disclaimer..........it worked for us, but no gaurentees! KEY IS TO BE PATIENT AND TAKE YOUR TIME.....Craig The rivet nuts can be bought at pretty much any speciality type fastner dealer. I got mine at FASTENAL 803-356-4334 ASK FOR LORI. (CHROME PLATED DOME TOP W/ ALLEN HEAD 8/32 x 3/4 IN SIZE W/ RIVET NUTS. The only special tool is the Rivet Nut tool which is very similiar to a Rivet gun. If shop don't have one, tool can be ordered on-line from Harbour Freight tools for about $15.00 The rivet nuts and dome tops cost me about $65.00. Once new scoop has been drilled, place it on the hood. Take something like a finish nail or Klinko and line up the rear center hole with the existing hole in the hood. Now position scoop to align with the center stripe on the scoop and the hood by eyeballing. Once you are confident that it is properly aligned it's now time to mark the hood for drilling. We used a felt marker to do this. HINT--this worked better for us by wiping hood under scoop first w/ alchol again and then used painters tape on the hood under the scoop flanges. This not only provides a good marking place but any panel w/ paint must be taped prior to drilling to help with paint chips. Craig Edited January 12, 2009 by SGT2873 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FordRocks1 Posted January 12, 2009 Report Share Posted January 12, 2009 Craig, Thank you very much for the in depth instructions, I hope that I can persuade the body shop at my dealer that I can stand at their side as this is being done to minimize any rush job...I know time is money but this is also my Shelby. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SGT/SC2873 Posted January 13, 2009 Report Share Posted January 13, 2009 Craig, Thank you very much for the in depth instructions, I hope that I can persuade the body shop at my dealer that I can stand at their side as this is being done to minimize any rush job...I know time is money but this is also my Shelby. Chris worth asking. I was lucky that my guy is an independent B/S and he and I go way back. Plus he knows that I am just a little bit picky about my cars but not to the point of being obnoxious. He's the type guy that will hand me the tool and say, here you cut it...I'm not touching it! He's a character to say the least. Craig Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffIsHereToo Posted January 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2009 worth asking. I was lucky that my guy is an independent B/S and he and I go way back. Plus he knows that I am just a little bit picky about my cars but not to the point of being obnoxious. He's the type guy that will hand me the tool and say, here you cut it...I'm not touching it! He's a character to say the least. Craig Please also see the posts about the dangers of the two layer hood! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FordRocks1 Posted January 13, 2009 Report Share Posted January 13, 2009 Please also see the posts about the dangers of the two layer hood! Jeff, Yup, read them and printed them, I'm heading out there to my dealership this afternoon and hand delivered these notes that I've printed to him from all of you guys. I've also got to go look around for these rivnuts or order them. Thanks again all of you who has put in some input Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilmor Posted January 13, 2009 Report Share Posted January 13, 2009 I wonder if Tasca would install my new scoop with the rivet nuts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FordRocks1 Posted January 13, 2009 Report Share Posted January 13, 2009 I wonder if Tasca would install my new scoop with the rivet nuts? I don't know the part number but Craig has used Chrome plated dome top with allen head 8/32 X 3/4 in size and Fastenal company has a bunch of stores all over the country...good luck!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZepDad Posted January 13, 2009 Report Share Posted January 13, 2009 Ok guys I'm going in for scoop #5 and maybe hood stripes #3 (if the wider flange doesn't cover the stripe wrinkling). All other stripes have also been replaced under warranty. Fortunately I have a dealer in N. Fla. that has been very good to work with. Very sympathetic and they are trying to get it right. This time I will try to go with rivnuts--at my cost--if the dealer is ok with it. I spoke with Linus at Fastenal (Lori was out). Here's the part numbers (go to www.fastenal.com and enter the part numbers): Rivnut part #0125631 > 8-32 .020-.080 Large Flange Ribbed Nutsert Alumnium (.44 ea) OR Rivnut part #0125632 > 8-32 .080-.130 Large Flange Ribbed Nutsert Alumnium (.48 ea) Can anyone verify the grip range. Either .020-.080 or .080-.130. Linus said no rivnut gun is necessary, that the rivnuts compress when the screw is run in the first time. Does this sound right? He didn't sound real confident. Fastener part #0185299 > 8-32x3/4 Alloy Strength Polished Chrome Plated BHCS ($8.80/5 pack) [need 25 -- ouch!!] [stainless steel is available for .25/ea part #73724 but chrome will obviously look better, I'm not sure about weathering] Wish me luck. Any more advice on the rivnuts is very appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby-Don Posted January 13, 2009 Report Share Posted January 13, 2009 I think I would be more comfortable using the stainless screws as the open hex area will tend to collect water and are hard to clean out but I guess changing them out would be easy once you have the rivnuts installed. Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SGT/SC2873 Posted January 13, 2009 Report Share Posted January 13, 2009 (edited) I just got off the phone with Lori at Fastenal (803-356-4334) she is the GM and knows her stuff....anyway, here are the part numbers: Chrome button head 0185299 - these are packaged 5 to a pack and she will sell for $1.44 each Flathead rivet nut 41596 - these are packaged at 100 per pack and sale for .49 each. When she ordered mine, she broke the package and sold me 50 as I wanted some extras. Said she still has 50 of these in the store. of course there would be S&H if you buy from her. Hope this helps....Craig BTW, you will need the Rivet tool to install.....Harbour Freight has one for $16.00 Harbour Freight Edited January 13, 2009 by SGT2873 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZepDad Posted January 13, 2009 Report Share Posted January 13, 2009 Thanks Craig. I just spoke with Lori. I went with the ribbed part #0125631. The only difference is that the diameter of the flange is 1/16th larger (3/8 vs 5/16). I don't think this will matter, especially since the new scoop has a larger flange anyway, or so I've heard. She agreed that the ribbed version might hold better than the smooth one for this application (given vibration and temperature variations). The chrome fasteners are indeed expensive but will look the best. For added protection I'll apply a clear lacquer with a small brush after install. I certainly appreciate the tip on the pricing. Lori's offer of $7.20 for 5 was helpful. Thanks for the link to the install tool. Definitely required. Now I'm waiting on the dealer to say if they will install the rivnuts. If they say "no" I will have to consider doing it myself. I want HS#5 to be the last. Or am I just kidding myself? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carl Bishop Posted January 13, 2009 Report Share Posted January 13, 2009 MI$TRESS went to the shop this past Friday for her second scoop/stripe replacement with the new and improved scoop. I'm going with the standard rivet install. I stopped in Saturday to check their progress, they had the hood off with the old stripes remove, the new holes were drilled in the hood and scoop, man does that thing lay on the hood perfect. You couldn't squeeze a piece of paper in-between the scoop and hood even without the rivets. The stripes were scheduled to go on yesterday and the scoop is suppose to be installed mid day Thursday for the normal 3 day cure time for the stripes. I can't wait to pick her up Thursday afternoon. Alan said he'd try to take some pictures of the build, but they are very busy so I hope they have the time to document the process for me. If they do, I'll add some pictures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoFL05GT Posted January 13, 2009 Report Share Posted January 13, 2009 I'm closely following all these latest developments and hope some pictures can be shared. I just purchased 08SGT0528 and my dealer has filed a claim to have the hood scoop and hood stripes replaced. It my case, being an 08SGT, the 25 holes are already present. Can the same 25 hole be reused with the latest scoop with the wider flange? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZepDad Posted January 13, 2009 Report Share Posted January 13, 2009 Yes, the same 25 holes will be used. The new scoop comes without pre-drilled holes. The dealer will mark the new scoop using the existing 25 holes, then drill holes in the scoop. Sounds easy.....but we'll see about dealer execution. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoFL05GT Posted January 14, 2009 Report Share Posted January 14, 2009 Yes, the same 25 holes will be used. The new scoop comes without pre-drilled holes. The dealer will mark the new scoop using the existing 25 holes, then drill holes in the scoop. Sounds easy.....but we'll see about dealer execution. Thanks! If it were possible, I'd rather do the work myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffIsHereToo Posted January 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2009 (edited) Thanks! If it were possible, I'd rather do the work myself. Sure it's possible but why when it's under warranty? They mess it up, they have to fix it, new scoop, new hood, whatever. Add to that if something happens later you're still covered 3/36. Do it yourself and that's it you own it! I would recommend you ask the dealership to use a body shop of your choosing. Edited January 14, 2009 by JeffIsHereToo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willyumm930 Posted January 14, 2009 Report Share Posted January 14, 2009 MI$TRESS went to the shop this past Friday for her second scoop/stripe replacement with the new and improved scoop. I'm going with the standard rivet install. I stopped in Saturday to check their progress, they had the hood off with the old stripes remove, the new holes were drilled in the hood and scoop, man does that thing lay on the hood perfect. You couldn't squeeze a piece of paper in-between the scoop and hood even without the rivets. The stripes were scheduled to go on yesterday and the scoop is suppose to be installed mid day Thursday for the normal 3 day cure time for the stripes. I can't wait to pick her up Thursday afternoon. Alan said he'd try to take some pictures of the build, but they are very busy so I hope they have the time to document the process for me. If they do, I'll add some pictures. I picked mine up not too long after M$TRESS was dropped off on Friday (sorry, but I have no pics yet; work and bad weather). I will have to agree that the new scoops much improved. My car looks 10 times better and I feel much better about the car. As stated before, it is very important that you get a good shop/dealership to do this work. Do your homework! I can't imagine how hard it is to lay the stripes and then make sure the scoop stripes line up. Alan explained that he thought this scoop was better made and will definitely last. I want to thank Auto Art in Raleigh, NC for all their hard work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pastor Passum Posted January 14, 2009 Report Share Posted January 14, 2009 Wish me luck please. Dale Jarrett Ford just called and said my Shelby is ready...new scoop installed and the service manager says it looks good. We'll see soon. I had waited until the final scoop revision was done before filing a warranty claim. The new scoop came in and the first round began on December 8th. A couple days later I got a call. Problems, the body shop drilled the holes for the rivets. They had put painters tape on the scoop to mark it and protect it while drilling the holes. Holes drilled and tape removed...oops! The paint along the flange of the new scoop came off with the painters tape. The body shop said the scoop wasn't prepped before being painted. I saw the scoop and it didn't look as though it had been primed before being painted So the new scoop was returned to Shelby, the old scoop was replaced on the car and I took it home. December 30th, 2nd new scoop is in but thinking I'm not sure I want someone drilling 25 holes in my hood and scoop the day before or shortly after New Years celebrations, I waited until the 7th of January to take it back. I sure hope it's good this time. I love the Shelby and I keep trying to justify all the problems with the stripes and scoop I read about as well as those I've experienced. And I'll have to say Bud has been great with advice about how to deal with Ford warranty. But...it just seems that there is and has been from the get go a lack, make that a huge lack of quality control so far as the Shelby GT's are concerned. You think that with all the SNAFU's concerning the several versions of the hood scoop that a properly prepared and painted scoop would be a given. I've read of at least 2 others here with the same problem of paint chipping when the holes were drilled. The old adage "THERE'S NEVER ENOUGH TIME TO DO IT RIGHT BUT ALWAYS ENOUGH TIME TO DO IT OVER" keeps coming to mind. Anyway, I just thought I'd give a heads up so that others with a new scoop may just run a piece of painter's tape around the flange of their new scoop and remove it to make sure the paint is good before drilling and finding out later. It may save you some time. Hopefully all is good this time and the next time I have to deal with this is after the car is out of warranty and I have the stripes painted on as they should have been in the first place Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carl Bishop Posted January 15, 2009 Report Share Posted January 15, 2009 Well my car is finished, I'm getting read to head over in an hour to pick her up. Wish me luck....... Stay tuned for an update later this evening. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carl Bishop Posted January 16, 2009 Report Share Posted January 16, 2009 Well all I can say is my scoop is now absolutely perfect! The combination the new scoop + a body shop that has the skills and knows what they are doing = a SGT to be proud of. I couldn’t be happier. :bandance: They didn’t have time to document the process with pictures. I’ll take some pictures in the morning in natural light. My camera sucks and does not take good pictures indoors with the flash. I suggest that any of you living within a 3 or 4 hour drive from Raleigh, NC have your dealership sub the work to Auto Arts, it will be worth the hassle to have it done and done right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilmor Posted January 16, 2009 Report Share Posted January 16, 2009 Congratulations, 08SGT - Glad to hear that it worked out good for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carl Bishop Posted January 16, 2009 Report Share Posted January 16, 2009 Here are some pic's: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carl Bishop Posted January 16, 2009 Report Share Posted January 16, 2009 The scoop to the right is off an '07 late production that was riveted from the factory, the scoop to the left is my second scoop with the "pillow" above. At the time I had it replaced in March of last year, it was suppose to be the new and approved version. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiverRunner Posted January 16, 2009 Report Share Posted January 16, 2009 Well it looks like I will be traveling down this road as well. I noticed our scoop has a couple of wrinkles. The other day I noticed you can see light under the driver side rear of it. It doesnt sit flat on the hood. My wife has been driving the car all week and last night she started bitc......um......telling me about the scoop. Yes dear, I'll take care of it. Thankfully I can use the info here to get it done. Now it's just a matter of finding a dealership that can handle it. :rolleyes: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilmor Posted January 16, 2009 Report Share Posted January 16, 2009 (edited) Your scoop looks fantastic. I may be taking mine to tasca for the fix tomorrow. I'm waiting to hear back from them. Update - Yep, I'm taking it to Tasca tomorrow - wish me luck!! Also, it will be my first Tasca visit so I'm a little excited about that! Edited January 17, 2009 by ilmor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SGT/SC2873 Posted January 17, 2009 Report Share Posted January 17, 2009 Here are some pic's: 08SGT1234, Looks really good. Glad it turned out for you! Craig :happy feet: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SGT/SC2873 Posted January 17, 2009 Report Share Posted January 17, 2009 Your scoop looks fantastic. I may be taking mine to tasca for the fix tomorrow. I'm waiting to hear back from them. Update - Yep, I'm taking it to Tasca tomorrow - wish me luck!! Also, it will be my first Tasca visit so I'm a little excited about that! good luck, ilmor...but I doubt that you need it...what better place than TASCA! Try to get us some pics...and have fun looking around...Craig Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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