The Hood Scoop Thread

[SoFL05GT]

I got my car back, and it looks good to me! Thanks to Tasca and Dennis Gomes for a job well done.

 

Looks perfect! ..thanks for sharing the photos. Mine has been in the shop now for 3 weeks for new hood stripes and scoop. It should be ready next week. Below is what it looked like a week ago. -Steve

[ilmor]

I have a couple of mine work in progress also, thanks to a couple of TS members who visited. In the one photo, the car under the cover next to mine is the Tasca Cobra Jet Mustang! I wonder if some power rubbed off....

 

 

 

[JeffIsHereToo]

Looks perfect! ..thanks for sharing the photos. Mine has been in the shop now for 3 weeks for new hood stripes and scoop. It should be ready next week. Below is what it looked like a week ago. -Steve

 

Three weeks? What have they been doing with it? Hummm...I would measure those stripes. They don't look right. They should be 1" all the way down the length of the hood apart except for a little bit of variance at the bottom. Those look 1/8th to 1/4" in the middle too far apart. But it could be the picture.

Edited March 15, 2009 by JeffIsHereToo

[SoFL05GT]

Three weeks? What have they been doing with it? Hummm...I would measure those stripes. They don't look right. They should be 1" all the way down the length of the hood apart except for a little bit of variance at the bottom. Those look 1/8th to 1/4" in the middle too far apart. But it could be the picture.

 

Some of the extra time was due to a mix-up of new hood scoops at the dealership. I was told my scoop was there, when actually it wasn't, so it took a few days to get one from SAI. I'll have the gap checked before the scoop is installed, as you suggest. Thanks Jeff for the questioning the stripes. -Steve

[JeffIsHereToo]

Some of the extra time was due to a mix-up of new hood scoops at the dealership. I was told my scoop was there, when actually it wasn't, so it took a few days to get one from SAI. I'll have the gap checked before the scoop is installed, as you suggest. Thanks Jeff for the questioning the stripes. -Steve

 

I hope I'm wrong and it's just the picture!

 

Good luck!

[ShelbyDW]

Well folks, picked mine up yesterday and boy does this new scoop look great. A big thanks to Frank from World Ford of Kendall and Livio at automotive associates for putting up with my requests and being one picky SOB- I went with the riv-nut idea and had some hiccups but Chip came through with the fix and so I thank you Chip for providing me with the minor details that made it all come together. This new scoop is solid and does not warp.

The amount of time and effort that was put into this new to scoop by the above mentioned people who worked on it is probably way more than what dealers would allow anyone to work on, on the dealer's dime that is but seeing how these guys did not want to make me unhappy and always did their best for being their first with the whole rivet nut deal says much about the techs and the sub contractor that worked on my scoop that I have respect for those guys and would not want them to do it over and over again. I must admit, I was the subcontractor's guinea pig but we both learned alot dealing with how fiberglass,aluminum and patience is all about.

There are two very minor imperfections but I don't want to go through the whole waiting thing and this being my DD I have to have my car to live.

Try to spot out my imperfections because if its one thing I know about you Shelby guys is that yall have a keen eye for spotting the the bad things....

 

 

Looks Great! I have Countersink envy now..

Edited March 18, 2009 by JeffIsHereToo

[SoFL05GT]

Three weeks? What have they been doing with it? Hummm...I would measure those stripes. They don't look right. They should be 1" all the way down the length of the hood apart except for a little bit of variance at the bottom. Those look 1/8th to 1/4" in the middle too far apart. But it could be the picture.

 

Jeff, What an eye you have! The gap measured 1 1/4", so they will have to be replaced before the new scoop goes on. Thank you again for questioning the gap. I really miss my car.

[JeffIsHereToo]

Jeff, What an eye you have! The gap measured 1 1/4", so they will have to be replaced before the new scoop goes on. Thank you again for questioning the gap. I really miss my car.

 

:-( Sorry to hear that!

 

Next thing is to make sure they use stripes from SPP. I fear they will soon get a major sticker shock and be VERY tempted to try to make some stripes that are "close enough" and pass them off. Here's what I did when that looked to be what was happening, I told my dealer that I know the stripes are hard to get and that I wanted to be told when they are ordered so I could call "my friend" at SPP and get the stripes shipped ASAP. Each day pretty much I called...have then been ordered? Etc. If you call SPP they can tell you if the dealer has placed an order for your car. The tell tail sign that stripes did not come from SPP is the washer nozzle cut-outs. A stripe guy is not going to cut those out instead they will pop the nozzles and run under them. While this looks better, unless you are going to do the entire car new, it will mean stripes that do not match. So, if you get the car back and no nozzle cut-outs, they are not stripes from SPP!

 

Good luck!

 

On the plus side stripes ship in 24-48 hours I am told and sent FedEx.

[tekheavy]

:-( Sorry to hear that!

 

Next thing is to make sure they use stripes from SPP. I fear they will soon get a major sticker shock and be VERY tempted to try to make some stripes that are "close enough" and pass them off. Here's what I did when that looked to be what was happening, I told my dealer that I know the stripes are hard to get and that I wanted to be told when they are ordered so I could call "my friend" at SPP and get the stripes shipped ASAP. Each day pretty much I called...have then been ordered? Etc. If you call SPP they can tell you if the dealer has placed an order for your car. The tell tail sign that stripes did not come from SPP is the washer nozzle cut-outs. A stripe guy is not going to cut those out instead they will pop the nozzles and run under them. While this looks better, unless you are going to do the entire car new, it will mean stripes that do not match. So, if you get the car back and no nozzle cut-outs, they are not stripes from SPP!

 

Good luck!

 

On the plus side stripes ship in 24-48 hours I am told and sent FedEx.

I thought the 08's didn't have the cutouts for the nozzles??

[SoFL05GT]

:-( Sorry to hear that!

 

Next thing is to make sure they use stripes from SPP. I fear they will soon get a major sticker shock and be VERY tempted to try to make some stripes that are "close enough" and pass them off. Here's what I did when that looked to be what was happening, I told my dealer that I know the stripes are hard to get and that I wanted to be told when they are ordered so I could call "my friend" at SPP and get the stripes shipped ASAP. Each day pretty much I called...have then been ordered? Etc. If you call SPP they can tell you if the dealer has placed an order for your car. The tell tail sign that stripes did not come from SPP is the washer nozzle cut-outs. A stripe guy is not going to cut those out instead they will pop the nozzles and run under them. While this looks better, unless you are going to do the entire car new, it will mean stripes that do not match. So, if you get the car back and no nozzle cut-outs, they are not stripes from SPP!

 

Good luck!

 

On the plus side stripes ship in 24-48 hours I am told and sent FedEx.

 

Jeff, Thanks for the tips. The stripes that are currently installed with the 1 1/4" gap are actually a 2nd attempt, which made me concerned that they were not authentic Shelby stripes. However, upon inspection, they appeared to be the right color and thickness, plus the washer nozzle cutouts were there. Could it be that they first tried keeping the authentic stripes from SPP and installed aftermarket stripes on the first attempt? The Ford technician told the stripe guy that the first set of hood stripes was unacceptable, then somehow a 2nd set appeared. So yes, I am very concerned about the authenticity of the "third set". I trust the Ford technician, but he's not the person doing the stripes. Thanks again, Steve

[SoFL05GT]

I thought the 08's didn't have the cutouts for the nozzles??

 

My original set definitely had the cutouts. Here a picture of the originals.

[JeffIsHereToo]

Jeff, Thanks for the tips. The stripes that are currently installed with the 1 1/4" gap are actually a 2nd attempt, which made me concerned that they were not authentic Shelby stripes. However, upon inspection, they appeared to be the right color and thickness, plus the washer nozzle cutouts were there. Could it be that they first tried keeping the authentic stripes from SPP and installed aftermarket stripes on the first attempt? The Ford technician told the stripe guy that the first set of hood stripes was unacceptable, then somehow a 2nd set appeared. So yes, I am very concerned about the authenticity of the "third set". I trust the Ford technician, but he's not the person doing the stripes. Thanks again, Steve

 

Plot thickens...

 

Make sure they know to ignore the washer nozzle cut-outs, do not use them as a guide for distance or work to make them the same distance from the nozzle. ALL THAT MATTERS IS THAT EACH STRIPE IS 1/2" FROM THE CENTER OF THE HOOD which means 1" apart.

Edited March 18, 2009 by JeffIsHereToo

[ilmor]

Plot thickens...

 

Make sure they know to ignore the washer nozzle cut-outs, do not use them as a guide for distance or work to make them the same distance from the nozzle. ALL THAT MATTERS IS THAT EACH STRIPE IS 1/2" FROM THE CENTER OF THE HOOD which means 1" apart.

 

That is exactly what I told the Tasca guys also.

[SoFL05GT]

Plot thickens...

 

Make sure they know to ignore the washer nozzle cut-outs, do not use them as a guide for distance or work to make them the same distance from the nozzle. ALL THAT MATTERS IS THAT EACH STRIPE IS 1/2" FROM THE CENTER OF THE HOOD which means 1" apart.

 

 

That is exactly what I told the Tasca guys also.

 

Thanks again for the install tips! Exactly, I'm going to visit the shop today to explain this to the technician, so he can explain it to the stripe guy, even bringing the photo below to illustrate. Assuming the rearmost center hole for the scoop is dead center, which it appears to be, then laying a 1" stripe of painter's tape should help while positioning the new stripes.

[JeffIsHereToo]

Thanks again for the install tips! Exactly, I'm going to visit the shop today to explain this to the technician, so he can explain it to the stripe guy, even bringing the photo below to illustrate. Assuming the rearmost center hole for the scoop is dead center, which it appears to be, then laying a 1" stripe of painter's tape should help while positioning the new stripes.

 

I wouldn't trust the center hole. There is a visible metal fold line down the center of the hood they should shoot for that. and always step back and see that the line flows from the roof to the hood to the lower fascia.

 

Good luck!

[ZepDad]

Here are some pics of my latest Hood Scope replacement at the Ford Dealership. 3rd time for me including new stripes. Used the 8-32 rivet nuts and Pan Head screws from McMasters. Also put #7 Buna o-rings under the screw heads to prevent the heads from digging to the paint on the scope radius. Also put Loctite (Blue Removable) on the screws to keep them from backing out under extreme vibrations. I'll let you know how it works out in the long term. Looks good for now.

 

Where did you purchase the #7 Buna o-rings? What is part number? I've searched around and can't find a reference to "#7".

 

I'm on scoop #5 and stripes #4. I too had the dealer install rivnuts this time but might be regretting it. Dimpled hood, screws digging into the paint, a large paint scrape on the scoop (they say they will fix), and so forth. I'm taking it back next week to complain some more. In particular the dimpled hood is inexcusable. I had the same problem with one of my first riveted scoops because of the two layer hood. I'm sure the nut sleeves are catching the bottom layer in a few places. I'm jealous of you owners who have a dealer who cares and is competent.

 

I will try to talk them into counter sinking the holes and repainting scoop. I really like that look. My fall back will be repainting and using the o-rings. I've also ordered some 8-32 torx s/s screws. Some of the chrome plated screws from Fastenal are already rusting where the hex key was used. It's only been a week!

 

Also I was reading about the hood pin problems related to aluminum and steel being in contact. Everyone of us using rivnuts have created this condition (steel screw into aluminum sleeve). Granted it's under the hood scoop flange but should we be concerned? One poster mentioned using Alodine to coat the aluminum. It apparently creates a corrosion barrier between the two metals. Fortunately, I haven't had a hood pin issue yet...but I'm sure it's coming. I've been thinking about the billet hood pins anyway.

 

Love my SGT, hate the the half-a** engineering that went into the scoop and now the hood pins. All cosmetic and costing Shelby/Ford a fortune to correct, not once, but over and over and over again.

[FordRocks1]

Buna O-rings.MCMaster-Carr carries them as well. Prt number 4679T117

Call Chip or PM him he has been very helpful with this whole scoop issue- Good Luck.

I have used the Fastenal screws also but chose not to use the chrome ones, went with the regular ones. Check out my pics because the counter holes really do make a difference in how the screws sit in the scoop.

[ZepDad]

Assuming I want to countersink the holes would this be the appropriate type bit?

 

#8 Countersink Bit

 

I assume the depth is controlled by an adjustable collar (where hex key fits). What would be the proper depth for one of the "final fix" fiberglass scoops? I'm installing (actually reinstalling) with 8-32 s/s torx button head screws. This assumes I can get the dealer to repaint the scoop after drilling.

 

I also read where the bottom side should be slightly countersunk so it will lie perfetly flat on the hood over the rivnut sleeves. What bit size and depth?

 

Thanks

[ZepDad]

Buna O-rings.MCMaster-Carr carries them as well. Prt number 4679T117

Call Chip or PM him he has been very helpful with this whole scoop issue- Good Luck.

 

Thanks FordRocks. I found Chip's number and will call him this weekend. He must be one patient man!!!

[FordRocks1]

Assuming I want to countersink the holes would this be the appropriate type bit?

 

#8 Countersink Bit

 

I assume the depth is controlled by an adjustable collar (where hex key fits). What would be the proper depth for one of the "final fix" fiberglass scoops? I'm installing (actually reinstalling) with 8-32 s/s torx button head screws. This assumes I can get the dealer to repaint the scoop after drilling.

 

I also read where the bottom side should be slightly countersunk so it will lie perfetly flat on the hood over the rivnut sleeves. What bit size and depth?

 

Thanks

 

 

I'll get back to you, I'll have to call him to ask him for the specs.

[JeffIsHereToo]

Where did you purchase the #7 Buna o-rings? What is part number? I've searched around and can't find a reference to "#7".

 

I'm on scoop #5 and stripes #4. I too had the dealer install rivnuts this time but might be regretting it. Dimpled hood, screws digging into the paint, a large paint scrape on the scoop (they say they will fix), and so forth. I'm taking it back next week to complain some more. In particular the dimpled hood is inexcusable. I had the same problem with one of my first riveted scoops because of the two layer hood. I'm sure the nut sleeves are catching the bottom layer in a few places. I'm jealous of you owners who have a dealer who cares and is competent.

 

The dimpled hood is easily fixed and NEVER should have been allowed out of the shop like that! They simply need to remove the blanket and look for where the nuts or rivets are coming through. They can keep $@! with it or simply grind out a small hole in the 2nd (inner) layer of the hood so the screw/rivet doesn't catch. The blanket covers it and there is no structural issue doing so. This will make putting the scoop on and off later for stripes etc., a much easier process.

 

Good luck!

Edited March 27, 2009 by JeffIsHereToo

[ZepDad]

Oh NOOOOO! While focusing on the HS these past months I never paid attention to the hood pin issue. As fate would have it I just inspected my hood pins closely this morning and, sure enough, I have the dreaded paint bubbling on both sides. Guess that means a repainted hood, new billet hood pins, new stripes and, of course, a new (or reinstalled) scoop. All under warranty. We've moved from the sublime to the ridiculous.

[ShelbyDW]

Buna O-rings.MCMaster-Carr carries them as well. Prt number 4679T117

Call Chip or PM him he has been very helpful with this whole scoop issue- Good Luck.

I have used the Fastenal screws also but chose not to use the chrome ones, went with the regular ones. Check out my pics because the counter holes really do make a difference in how the screws sit in the scoop.

 

 

FordRocks, Did you use the orings under the screws with the countersink?

 

ShelbyDW

[FordRocks1]

FordRocks, Did you use the orings under the screws with the countersink?

 

ShelbyDW

 

Ended up not using the O rings because they made the screw sit higher and the fact that you can see the O rings under the screw which looked a bit funny to me because as the O rings are being compressed they will move so on some screws you may not see them and some you'll see that they have moved.

[kahmann]

I just called the Ford dealer nearest my work to see if I could have them do the hood scoop replacement, as opposed to the one nearest my house, as I haven't had any luck finding the time to get down there in a long time.

I simply asked for the guy that I had dealt with several times up here in the past, but the guy on the phone insisted on knowing which Shelby I had, the '500' or the 'Shelby GT-350'.

I tried explaining that it's the Shelby GT, but he wouldn't budge. He seriously got angry when I insisted that they haven't built a GT-350 since the 60's!

I honestly just wasted almost 5 minutes of my time arguing with this moron who works in the FORD service department about the car that I own.

This was by the far the worst encounter I've ever had regarding the title of the car. I'm waiting for the call back from the guy that I've dealt with in the past, but I don't have a real warm and fuzzy feeling about dealing with this place now either. <_<

 

Ken

 

EDIT: The other guy called back. He said they were having a spirited discussion about the Shelbys after my first phone call. He told me that his guys call it a GT-350 because all of the 'Ford literature' regarding the car that service guys see refers to the SGT as a GT-350. I can't imagine that this is true. Anyone know for sure??

On a side note, he told me to stick with the original dealer, because they won't send the parts to him. He would have to start a brand new claim, the original parts at the other dealer would need to be sent back to Shelby, and it would be an entirely new process. Guess I need to take 1/2 day off next week and just get this over with.

Edited April 3, 2009 by kahmann

[ilmor]

Ken, just curious, how far are you from SAI? Maybe they would do your scoop for you (they should!)

[kahmann]

Ken, just curious, how far are you from SAI? Maybe they would do your scoop for you (they should!)

600 miles

[ilmor]

600 miles

 

Ok, that's a bit of a ways....

[JeffIsHereToo]

I just called the Ford dealer nearest my work to see if I could have them do the hood scoop replacement, as opposed to the one nearest my house, as I haven't had any luck finding the time to get down there in a long time.

I simply asked for the guy that I had dealt with several times up here in the past, but the guy on the phone insisted on knowing which Shelby I had, the '500' or the 'Shelby GT-350'.

I tried explaining that it's the Shelby GT, but he wouldn't budge. He seriously got angry when I insisted that they haven't built a GT-350 since the 60's!

I honestly just wasted almost 5 minutes of my time arguing with this moron who works in the FORD service department about the car that I own.

This was by the far the worst encounter I've ever had regarding the title of the car. I'm waiting for the call back from the guy that I've dealt with in the past, but I don't have a real warm and fuzzy feeling about dealing with this place now either. <_<

 

Ken

 

EDIT: The other guy called back. He said they were having a spirited discussion about the Shelbys after my first phone call. He told me that his guys call it a GT-350 because all of the 'Ford literature' regarding the car that service guys see refers to the SGT as a GT-350. I can't imagine that this is true. Anyone know for sure??

On a side note, he told me to stick with the original dealer, because they won't send the parts to him. He would have to start a brand new claim, the original parts at the other dealer would need to be sent back to Shelby, and it would be an entirely new process. Guess I need to take 1/2 day off next week and just get this over with.

 

 

There is not ONE, NOT ONE thing EVER printed from Ford that calls the car a GT-350. There may have been some reference to history etc., where the GT350 was mentioned but that's it! Hopefully this guys reads the shop manuals better!

[blueshawk]

I just called the Ford dealer nearest my work to see if I could have them do the hood scoop replacement, as opposed to the one nearest my house, as I haven't had any luck finding the time to get down there in a long time.

I simply asked for the guy that I had dealt with several times up here in the past, but the guy on the phone insisted on knowing which Shelby I had, the '500' or the 'Shelby GT-350'.

I tried explaining that it's the Shelby GT, but he wouldn't budge. He seriously got angry when I insisted that they haven't built a GT-350 since the 60's!

I honestly just wasted almost 5 minutes of my time arguing with this moron who works in the FORD service department about the car that I own.

This was by the far the worst encounter I've ever had regarding the title of the car. I'm waiting for the call back from the guy that I've dealt with in the past, but I don't have a real warm and fuzzy feeling about dealing with this place now either. <_<

 

Ken

 

EDIT: The other guy called back. He said they were having a spirited discussion about the Shelbys after my first phone call. He told me that his guys call it a GT-350 because all of the 'Ford literature' regarding the car that service guys see refers to the SGT as a GT-350. I can't imagine that this is true. Anyone know for sure??

On a side note, he told me to stick with the original dealer, because they won't send the parts to him. He would have to start a brand new claim, the original parts at the other dealer would need to be sent back to Shelby, and it would be an entirely new process. Guess I need to take 1/2 day off next week and just get this over with.

 

 

I wouldn't let anyone do my car who hasn't actually replaced the old riveted scoop with the "new" fiberglass scoop (without predrilled holes). It takes some figuring out how to spaced the new holes for the new rivets. It also requires some practice to get the rivets to lay flush with the surface of the scoop without "diggin" in. I would try to find a place that has done this install and is confident they can do another. I had to travel 4 hours to the next state to get mine done right. It's tricky install and you want someone with experience.

 

The amount of money SAI allocates to do this repair is not enough if you have to figure out how to do it. The instructions are of little help.