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The Hood Scoop Thread


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Here are some pic's:

 

****** Picture references removed due to size ****

 

PLEASE REDUCE FILE SIZE AND REPOST

 

I just had my scoop and stripes replaced today by the same people, Auto Arts in Raleigh NC. I don't have a good camera but the install looks just like 08SGT1234. The stripes were installed "perfectly". The scoop was also painted to match the stripes (believe it or not the scoop paint doesn't come matched to the stripes), then the black stripe was painted on and the whole thing clear coated (optional but recommended).

 

The new scoop also looks sleek and not "blubous" like the old scoop. It seems to sit lower on the hood and the edges are not as rounded and the flange doesn't look at thick. It is a much better looking scoop along with being very strong.

 

The guys at Auto Arts, Inc. have become experts in this install and will get you set up with the warranty process. Give Alan Hogan a call and he will take care of you.

Edited by JeffIsHereToo
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That's great news Blue, I'm supposed to get my car back this week, I hope to have the same luck as you.

Any pointers that they (the shop) has given you about the install of the scoop or stripes that we can share on these threads?

 

Thanks,

 

Chris

 

Wishing I took mine to Auto Arts but could not get a dealer to sub it out. However my dealer today when I surprise visited them stated they needed to refill the original holes in the hood otherwise it would cause the insulation on the underside to rot. I know the hood is aluminum but they said the insulation will go bad just from washing if they dont fill it. I know Auto Arts is not filling it after talking with another member whose car they have done. It'll be interesting to see how it turns out. I know guys are having Auto Arts paint to match....if mine doesn't match I will be back at the dealer again getting it fixed. Pics to be posted Wed. or Thursday for me.

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I just had my scoop and stripes replaced today by the same people, Auto Arts in Raleigh NC. I don't have a good camera but the install looks just like 08SGT1234. The stripes were installed "perfectly". The scoop was also painted to match the stripes (believe it or not the scoop paint doesn't come matched to the stripes), then the black stripe was painted on and the whole thing clear coated (optional but recommended).

 

The new scoop also looks sleek and not "blubous" like the old scoop. It seems to sit lower on the hood and the edges are not as rounded and the flange doesn't look at thick. It is a much better looking scoop along with being very strong.

 

The guys at Auto Arts, Inc. have become experts in this install and will get you set up with the warranty process. Give Alan Hogan a call and he will take care of you.

 

 

Jim, glad to hear you made it down and back safely. I wish I could have seen your car completed on Saturday. I knew you'd be happy with the quality work by Mike and Alan.

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Wishing I took mine to Auto Arts but could not get a dealer to sub it out. However my dealer today when I surprise visited them stated they needed to refill the original holes in the hood otherwise it would cause the insulation on the underside to rot. I know the hood is aluminum but they said the insulation will go bad just from washing if they dont fill it. I know Auto Arts is not filling it after talking with another member whose car they have done. It'll be interesting to see how it turns out. I know guys are having Auto Arts paint to match....if mine doesn't match I will be back at the dealer again getting it fixed. Pics to be posted Wed. or Thursday for me.

 

 

Jase,

 

What Auto Arts did was lay the new stripes over all the existing holes on the hood sealing them, then drilled new holes. We shouldn'd have any issues with water ruining the hood insulator.

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Jase,

 

What Auto Arts did was lay the new stripes over all the existing holes on the hood sealing them, then drilled new holes. We shouldn'd have any issues with water ruining the hood insulator.

 

 

We discussed that today after I got off the phone with you. I am pretty sure they are going to fill it with a silicone then go from there on my car. I am curious to see how it turns out, I have almost bit all my finger nails off. Auto Arts is awesome, I have seen the work on yours and other members of our club. They were great help in emails. You know how hard I fought to have them do my car. I am glad for you guys that can use them.

Sunday can't come soon enough!!! :happy feet:

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That's great news Blue, I'm supposed to get my car back this week, I hope to have the same luck as you.

Any pointers that they (the shop) has given you about the install of the scoop or stripes that we can share on these threads?

 

Thanks,

 

Chris

 

Chris, As you probably know, my SGT is also at World Ford Kendall being worked on by Frank. Mine should be ready the end of this week. I hope the work on both our cars goes smoothly. Have you been assisting Frank with yours, as planned? Have you seen my SGT during your visits? I wish World Ford Kendall wasn't so far from my home. -Steve

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Well, folks, here is the update on my scoop issue/fix/still issue- I wanted to go with the rivets provided by SAI but reading about the Rivet Nuts and the ease of taking it off and putting it back I went ahead and ordered the ones from Fastenal but I am having a new issue now and I'm seriously wondering how the Chip Beck scoop lays down so flat and especially around the corners for my new scoop was not able first lay flush on the hood because of the fasteners and secondly because the fasteners only go in straight vertically it does not allow the rivets to go in at an angle around the corners so now I'm kind of stuck for I have already drilled the hood for the fasteners so I can't go back to using the provided rivets but seeing some of the rivets install still digs into the paint of the new scoop especially since my scoop had to also be painted to not only match the stripes makes me not want to go that route. When the new scoop is re-painted to match the stripes there is a thicker coat of paint/clear on the scoop so the possibility of having the paint strip or chip greatly increases.

I am now looking for some washers that will fit flush with the rivet nuts but trying to find such washers in either nylon or rubber so not to dig into the paint proves to be a mission but I will not give up and neither has the body shop that is doing my scoop. I must say that he has spent countless hours contacting me on updates and possible solutions to make this coop thing go smoothly. He himself is a mustang enthusiast and is willing to do everything to make this right with me so I'm grateful for that.

Chip or anyone who has used the rivet nut method please help me out with either pics or instructions as to how your scoop lays flat and the nuts gave not dug a crater in your scoop, I understand that Chip's scoop is slightly different from the Shelby one but I'd just like to see close up pics of your rivet nut on the scoop.

I like to look at the positive side of things so I hope that I can have my car back soon-it's been almost three weeks now not having my SGT and :censored: I miss that damn car, I feel like just getting my car for a day and drive it without a hood on it :hysterical: but on a serious note if SAI is reading this thread please offer us the GT-H hood for us with continuing scoop issues a deep discount or I'd seriously take that deep draw hood from the Terlingua or make a scoop like the original one from the 07 SGTs with the 8 bolts and to alleviate the rivet issue just make a scoop with rivets installed but will be held down with 3m tape and the rivets are just for looks and is further held down by the original 8 bolts. Man, I tell you when I get this puppy back I am seriously going to light up the tires in a empty parking lot and do o circles all over to make up for lost time....sorry for the long thread but its a learning experience so please chime in yall :happy feet:

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I'm seriously wondering how the Chip Beck scoop lays down so flat and especially around the corners for my new scoop was not able first lay flush on the hood because of the fasteners and secondly because the fasteners only go in straight vertically it does not allow the rivets to go in at an angle around the corners so now I'm kind of stuck for I have already drilled the hood for the fasteners so I can't go back to using the provided rivets but seeing some of the rivets install still digs into the paint of the new scoop especially since my scoop had to also be painted to not only match the stripes makes me not want to go that route. When the new scoop is re-painted to match the stripes there is a thicker coat of paint/clear on the scoop so the possibility of having the paint strip or chip greatly increases.

I am now looking for some washers that will fit flush with the rivet nuts but trying to find such washers in either nylon or rubber so not to dig into the paint proves to be a mission but I will not give up and neither has the body shop that is doing my scoop. I must say that he has spent countless hours contacting me on updates and possible solutions to make this coop thing go smoothly. He himself is a mustang enthusiast and is willing to do everything to make this right with me so I'm grateful for that.

Chip or anyone who has used the rivet nut method please help me out with either pics or instructions as to how your scoop lays flat and the nuts gave not dug a crater in your scoop, I understand that Chip's scoop is slightly different from the Shelby one but I'd just like to see close up pics of your rivet nut on the scoop.

 

FordRocks1,

 

I have not had a chance to examine one of the new Shelby built hood scoops. From the photos it looks like a pretty good copy of mine but I'm not sure so the best I can do is advise you on how I mounted my scoop. The part of the rivet nut that attaches to your hood does stick up slightly from the flush surface of your hood so the bottom of the hood scoop will need to be countersunk just deep enough to accommodate that raised portion of the rivet nut so that it lies flat on your hood. The top of the hood scoop once the holes are drilled needs to be countersunk as well with a drill bit just slightly larger in diameter than the top of the screws you will be using to attach the scoop. Countersink the top of your hood scoop straight down vertically so that the screws heads lie flush in that countersunk area. This work needs to be done of course before you paint your hood scoop. The Heath/Beck scoop is rigid vinyl ester resin fiberglass but it has enough give (like a fishing rod) so that it will conform to the surface of your hood.

 

The recommended Shelby install method with the rivets will dig in to the paint on the curved surface of that hood scoop. I don't think there's any getting around that. My method of installation as you can see from the second photograph did not dig into or damage the paint on my hood scoop at all.

 

There are many photographs in my "absolute hood scoop final fix" thread. Here's a couple more. If you're not sure about the above advice you may call me on my cell phone at 602-430-4877. All the best.

 

Chip

 

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post-12804-1235964593_thumb.jpg

Edited by ChipBeck
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FordRocks1,

 

I have not had a chance to examine one of the new Shelby built hood scoops. From the photos it looks like a pretty good copy of mine but I'm not sure so the best I can do is advise you on how I mounted my scoop. The part of the rivet nut that attaches to your hood does stick up slightly from the flush surface of your hood so the bottom of the hood scoop will need to be countersunk just deep enough to accommodate that raised portion of the rivet nut so that it lies flat on your hood. The top of the hood scoop once the holes are drilled needs to be countersunk as well with a drill bit just slightly larger in diameter than the top of the screws you will be using to attach the scoop. Countersink the top of your hood scoop straight down vertically so that the screws heads lie flush in that countersunk area. This work needs to be done of course before you paint your hood scoop. The Heath/Beck scoop is rigid vinyl ester resin fiberglass but it has enough give (like a fishing rod) so that it will conform to the surface of your hood.

 

The recommended Shelby install method with the rivets will dig in to the paint on the curved surface of that hood scoop. I don't think there's any getting around that. My method of installation as you can see from the second photograph did not dig into or damage the paint on my hood scoop at all.

 

There are many photographs in my "absolute hood scoop final fix" thread. Here's a couple more. If you're not sure about the above advice you may call me on my cell phone at 602-430-4877. All the best.

 

Chip

 

post-12804-1235964577_thumb.jpg

post-12804-1235964593_thumb.jpg

\\\

 

Chip , My install of your scoop went well , looks great , and I'm happy , even at 120 mph, I did not cut out as long a hole as you did it was about 1.5 inches shorter , other wse the same , could not make out the picture you guys sent , but it really vents the heat off well . I used my own riv-nuts stainless with a seration that holds tight.

I know you have had some loss recently so hang in there , family is everthing and you guys will help each other through the tough stuff ................. Zale

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I just got my SGT back with the "new scoop fix". My dealer, Beau Townsend Ford, in Dayton, Ohio did the work. They followed SAI directions and Neal the body shop manager read the posts on TeamShelby.com. I told him some of the concerns that were being brought up on the forums. My "new scoop" is flat as a pancake!!! Looks great. Holes drilled and spaced correctly, rivets nice and flat. If you are in the Ohio tri state area and need your scoop fixed, these are the guys to do it.

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\\\

 

Chip , My install of your scoop went well , looks great , and I'm happy , even at 120 mph, I did not cut out as long a hole as you did it was about 1.5 inches shorter , other wse the same , could not make out the picture you guys sent , but it really vents the heat off well . I used my own riv-nuts stainless with a seration that holds tight.

I know you have had some loss recently so hang in there , family is everthing and you guys will help each other through the tough stuff ................. Zale

 

Stainless rivnuts? Think galvanic corrosion! The hood pins suffer from this problem because of the stainless steel screws and plates. Aluminum rivnuts would have been the right choice. Keep checking for "bubbling" of the paint around these rivnuts which now will be hidden by the stripes. This could lead to disaster in the future. I'm ordering aluminum screws today for my hood pins!

 

The shop that did my scoop puts the rivets in at an angle so that the head of the rivet is almost flush on the curved surfaces. Looks fantastic!

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Stainless rivnuts? Think galvanic corrosion! The hood pins suffer from this problem because of the stainless steel screws and plates. Aluminum rivnuts would have been the right choice. Keep checking for "bubbling" of the paint around these rivnuts which now will be hidden by the stripes. This could lead to disaster in the future. I'm ordering aluminum screws today for my hood pins!

 

The shop that did my scoop puts the rivets in at an angle so that the head of the rivet is almost flush on the curved surfaces. Looks fantastic!

 

 

Installed wet with aircraft grade white high temp RTV sealant,,,,,should last longer than me.

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I just picked up the car from the body shop of the local dealer. The hood scoop looks great. They did a fantastic job. :rockon: It's amazing how much better it looks compared to the wrinkled/gap proned POS that was on it.

 

Excellent job and Thank you Colvin Ford in McMinnville, Oregon.

 

:peelout:

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I just picked up the car from the body shop of the local dealer. The hood scoop looks great. They did a fantastic job. :rockon: It's amazing how much better it looks compared to the wrinkled/gap proned POS that was on it.

 

Excellent job and Thank you Colvin Ford in McMinnville, Oregon.

 

:peelout:

 

 

That's great! I'm picking mine up this Saturday; I'm praying that its done right!!!

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Well folks, picked mine up yesterday and boy does this new scoop look great. A big thanks to Frank from World Ford of Kendall and Livio at automotive associates for putting up with my requests and being one picky SOB- I went with the riv-nut idea and had some hiccups but Chip came through with the fix and so I thank you Chip for providing me with the minor details that made it all come together. This new scoop is solid and does not warp.

The amount of time and effort that was put into this new to scoop by the above mentioned people who worked on it is probably way more than what dealers would allow anyone to work on, on the dealer's dime that is but seeing how these guys did not want to make me unhappy and always did their best for being their first with the whole rivet nut deal says much about the techs and the sub contractor that worked on my scoop that I have respect for those guys and would not want them to do it over and over again. I must admit, I was the subcontractor's guinea pig but we both learned alot dealing with how fiberglass,aluminum and patience is all about.

There are two very minor imperfections but I don't want to go through the whole waiting thing and this being my DD I have to have my car to live.

Try to spot out my imperfections because if its one thing I know about you Shelby guys is that yall have a keen eye for spotting the the bad things.... :hysterical:

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Well folks, picked mine up yesterday and boy does this new scoop look great. A big thanks to Frank from World Ford of Kendall and Livio at automotive associates for putting up with my requests and being one picky SOB- I went with the riv-nut idea and had some hiccups but Chip came through with the fix and so I thank you Chip for providing me with the minor details that made it all come together. This new scoop is solid and does not warp.

The amount of time and effort that was put into this new to scoop by the above mentioned people who worked on it is probably way more than what dealers would allow anyone to work on, on the dealer's dime that is but seeing how these guys did not want to make me unhappy and always did their best for being their first with the whole rivet nut deal says much about the techs and the sub contractor that worked on my scoop that I have respect for those guys and would not want them to do it over and over again. I must admit, I was the subcontractor's guinea pig but we both learned alot dealing with how fiberglass,aluminum and patience is all about.

There are two very minor imperfections but I don't want to go through the whole waiting thing and this being my DD I have to have my car to live.

Try to spot out my imperfections because if its one thing I know about you Shelby guys is that yall have a keen eye for spotting the the bad things.... :hysterical:

DSC04650.jpg

DSC04651.jpg

DSC04652.jpg

DSC04653.jpg

DSC04654.jpg

DSC04655.jpg

DSC04656.jpg

DSC04657.jpg

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DSC04660.jpg

 

 

This is fun! I think the screw, on the back, center is not centered on the black stripe. But it could just be the angle of the pics. Do I win?

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This is fun! I think the screw, on the back, center is not centered on the black stripe. But it could just be the angle of the pics. Do I win?

 

I would say you won...but...I hope this wasn't something he didn't notice! :lurk:

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Blueshawk is correct- The center hole is not..... well in the center. But at this point it looks so sweet that it will stay like that and the other thing is that one corner did not lay flat at the front of the scoop one was angled a bit more than the other so using the rivet nut also did not aid it too much but again, only us Shelby guys can notice that type of imperfection-overall it looks damn good....and sexy and ....oops there I go again....

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I got my car back, and it looks good to me! Thanks to Tasca and Dennis Gomes for a job well done. Here are the photos;

 

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Edited by ilmor
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