emailcm Posted September 9, 2006 Report Share Posted September 9, 2006 Hi Everyone, I'm looking for informaiton on proper techniques on storing my GT500 for extended periods of time (6 mo to 1 yr). I travel a lot for work and won't be able to enjoy it for long periods of time. Here's the story I got on how to store the car. Can anyone confirm for me? A) Put the car on blocks high enough so the tires don't touch the floor B) Drain the Oil C) Drain the radiator fluid D) Leave the trany fluid E) Take out the battery Also, I was told that it takes more than just refilling these fluids before I'd start the engine....but need help on that issue as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bullittmansparts Posted September 9, 2006 Report Share Posted September 9, 2006 Some of my cars (65 Verts) are up for years at a time...i ALWAYS change out the oil to fresh just before storage, Blocks are good. I use the 10 year extended antifreeze solution for the coolant. Use a storage "Bag" when stored . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carnut Posted September 9, 2006 Report Share Posted September 9, 2006 If your only storing for 6 months at time, you dont need to go through a bunch of prep.. The oil in the Shelby is synthetic, it can sit for six months. If you live in real cold climate you might want to change to oil when it goes through the winter as you might collect a little moisture from condensation. You need to change your oil per the factory recommendations so some bozo doesn't give you grief over the warantee. Synthetics remain good for a least a year. The battery can remain in the car, buy a battery tender to keep it charged. A good car cover would be good, flannel lined to keep from scratching the paint. Get the tires off the ground so they dont flat spot And most importantly, use a fuel preservative in the gas tank. You can do more, but this would be a good minimum. Hope this helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JETSOLVER Posted September 9, 2006 Report Share Posted September 9, 2006 Big time traveller as well here, I have a system I use, and its just what works for me. I would not drain the oil, it just leaves unprotected parts to condensate and rust/oxidize. Just put fresh oil and a filter, then drive it until the car and all fluids are up to temp(to evapourate any water in the exhaust system, among other things). I put mine on axle stands, but some of my friends pulled the tires off and let the suspension hang without the weight of the wheels and tires. On this car, I would just leave the cooolant alone, mine I use water wetter and change it only if the car has been left over 6 months. But I get it up to temp before I change it, again due to condensate. Absolutely pull the battery, and set it on a non-conducting surface(a wood board, not the ground), with a trickle charger( I use a solar one with the solar cells in the garage window). I never bagged the car, but I have a top quality cover, just to keep the UV from the window out of the interior. If you have an interest in the way I keep the musty smell and any critters out, let me know. I am of mixed feelings about a fuel stabilizer, I talked to some engineer friends and they had no clear concensus either, so I just fill the tank as full as possible with 94 octane.(condensation again) The biggest thing for me is, I have my sister go out, and every 100 days or so, start the car, run it at idle for five minutes, run it through the gears a couple of times like I was pulling on the highway and going for about a 10 mile drive running the A/C(seals)with a cycle of the heater control.Then I have her call me and punch it a little(reminds me of why I work those crappy hours in crappy places) then pull the battery and cover her up again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alloy Dave Posted September 9, 2006 Report Share Posted September 9, 2006 I have my sister go out, and every 100 days or so, start the car, run it at idle for five minutes, run it through the gears a couple of times like I was pulling on the highway and going for about a 10 mile drive running the A/C(seals)with a cycle of the heater control.Then I have her call me and punch it a little(reminds me of why I work those crappy hours in crappy places) then pull the battery and cover her up again. Jet, it's interesting you mention the A/C seals....let's see if we have an expert around. I too learned this many years ago and do it in all my cars. In the old days (with Freon R-12), the refrigerant also carried a lubricant that would lubricate all seals in the system and keep them from dry-rotting. Therefore, in those days, it was good to turn your A/C on EVEN IN THE WINTER for a few minutes once a month or so...to get the lubricant circulating and touching all the seals. I have seen so many cars that are 8-12 years old where the A/C either doesn't work...or must be recharged annually. However, I used to follow the above practice, and had 3 cars that were more than 16 years old...and the A/C still worked perfectly. Now, the real question (and I don't know the answer...so hopefully we have a more recent graduate of the Ace Ventura Institute of Automotive Technology in our midst) is whether the newer refrigerant called R134 used for about the past 14 years still has this lubricant in it. Anyone know whether the practice I mention above is still helpful. I still do it...but don't know if it helps or not....because my current vehicle is only 4 years old...and the one before that was made with R12 pre-1992. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JETSOLVER Posted September 9, 2006 Report Share Posted September 9, 2006 Unsure, but I still do it in the winter every couple of days just to be sure.( I drove my car even at -40 C), perhaps an urban myth? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alloy Dave Posted September 9, 2006 Report Share Posted September 9, 2006 Get the tires off the ground so they dont flat spot I agree with this, but you just jogged my memory. My 1969 Camaro is going in the shop for paint and extensive body work next month...and they'll have it all winter. The tires that are on the car are Dunlop GT Qualifiers that I purchased in 1984. I'm surprised the tires look as good as mine do for being 22 years old. Of course I've only driven the car 8,000 miles in the past 22 years...but you'd think they would start rotting. I am getting new tires as soon as the car comes back from the body shop in the spring...the white letters on them are very dirty, and there are chunks of the white letters coming off...can't have that on a freshly painted car. Anyone interested in a VERY OLD set of 235 60HR15 radials with only 8,000 miles on them? Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carnut Posted September 9, 2006 Report Share Posted September 9, 2006 They sound very rare. Is there an ADM on them. Can I have them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jesse_Bolt Posted September 9, 2006 Report Share Posted September 9, 2006 «truncated» If you have an interest in the way I keep the musty smell and any critters out, let me know. I'm interested too. Just guessing... an open box of Arm & Hammer baking soda. Also seen some air fresheners that plug into the cigarette lighter and emits an occasional mist. I haven't a clue if this are recommended practices. JB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JETSOLVER Posted September 9, 2006 Report Share Posted September 9, 2006 I'm interested too. Just guessing... an open box of Arm & Hammer baking soda. Also seen some air fresheners that plug into the cigarette lighter and emits an occasional mist. I haven't a clue if this are recommended practices. JB I have no idea if this is even scientific, but based on some thought(perhaps Su-per Cans)I leave the little bastards a sacrificial gift. I buy a half dozen new cotten tea towels, and wash them in the sink a few times. Then I have this stuff called "essential oil"(Ex used to make soap) that is flavoured? clean linen. I put about 20 drops on each, and leave them in the trunk, under the hood and under the seats. I also put one under the dash if I remember(sometimes I forget) and critters(at least under the hood) go for them and chew on that stuff, I get a good non stinky car, and I have not had them pull all the stuffing out of the seats yet. I also have about 2 doz. traps in the garage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carnut Posted September 9, 2006 Report Share Posted September 9, 2006 If vermin (my apologies to anyone who thinks I am referring to them in code) seem like they will be problem, why not kill them before they even get to the car. The are a lot of good rodent baits out there that should do the job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kb67 Posted September 9, 2006 Report Share Posted September 9, 2006 Now, the real question (and I don't know the answer...so hopefully we have a more recent graduate of the Ace Ventura Institute of Automotive Technology in our midst) is whether the newer refrigerant called R134 used for about the past 14 years still has this lubricant in it. Anyone know whether the practice I mention above is still helpful. I still do it...but don't know if it helps or not....because my current vehicle is only 4 years old...and the one before that was made with R12 pre-1992. Dave Short answer is yes This is just my humble understanding of it :D Not a graduate of the Ventura Institute but I've worked with some industrial systems the oil is used to lubricate the compressor's valves the oil mixs with the refrigerate the mixture circulates thourgh the system together. Systems have a accumlator to catch the oil as it seperates from the refrigerate heading back to the compressor. The seals are to keep the refrigerate in the system and moisture out. By running your system some you are letting the oil keep the seals soft and plyable and keeping the compressor valves free. They can stick causing cooling problems or worst case compressor failure. If you are wondering why they don't use R-12 anymore in cars its due to its a non - renewable resource once we use it all theres no more, R-134 is made from sources that are renewable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mustang Joe Posted September 9, 2006 Report Share Posted September 9, 2006 Absolutely pull the battery, and set it on a non-conducting surface(a wood board, not the ground) Actually, the idea that you can't put a battery on the ground is a myth that's based on some old facts that are no longer relevant. http://www.uuhome.de/william.darden/carfaq14.htm#concrete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wildosvt Posted September 9, 2006 Report Share Posted September 9, 2006 You should put the car on jack stands on the front and rear sub frames without the wheels on and let the suspension drop. This will stop the springs from settling and keep them in tip-top shape. Helps the bushings a little bit too. Once a car has sat for a long period its wise to shoot a squirt of motor oil at the top of the bore and let it run around the bore and down prior to starting. Lubes the rings and limits scaring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wildosvt Posted September 9, 2006 Report Share Posted September 9, 2006 Great pointer scgt500, I have not had much experience with Amsoil. Alothough I know quite a few who do. The plugs are way down in the hole son. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSGT500 Posted September 9, 2006 Report Share Posted September 9, 2006 I'd reccomend placing a moisture absorber such as "damp check" inside the car. You can find them at boat supply stores. I have seen engines left with no oil in them loose prime at the oil pump. It was then necessary to overfill the crankcase to get oil back up to the pump gears and restore oil pressure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carnut Posted September 9, 2006 Report Share Posted September 9, 2006 After reading all of the above, I am wondering where you are located, really cold winters, lots of humidity or mild dry winters. Also what is the normal environment of your garage. This matters as to what you really need to do. Most of the previous posts have really good ideas. If you are home once of month, starting the car and letting it warm up fully is probably the best advice, this includes running the ac, it would help with dehumidification as well as keeping all of the fluids from seperating. My 8 cents worth Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ColdwaterHotrod Posted September 9, 2006 Report Share Posted September 9, 2006 I change the oil right where she will be sitting or as close too & then change all the fluids & top them all off so they are full to minimize any air with moister in it, Fill the Gas Tank completely with high octane premium fuel & add a fuel stabilizer to the tank so it doesn’t condensate from any air being in the tank, start the car up for 3 minutes to get the stabilizer up to & into the fuel lines, then spray a fogging oil into the air intake so the motor stalls so the cylinder walls are coated in oil and then jack the car up & place stands under it to unload the spring weight, discount the positive side of the battery & last but not least I’m buying this “Car Capsule” to keep the varmints out & the new car smell locked in. www.carcapsule.com They also have them for cycles. www.cycledome.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alloy Dave Posted September 9, 2006 Report Share Posted September 9, 2006 I'm interested too. Just guessing... an open box of Arm & Hammer baking soda. Also seen some air fresheners that plug into the cigarette lighter and emits an occasional mist. I haven't a clue if this are recommended practices. No....a closed box. Sorry Jesse...I couldn't resist. You owe me a smart-ass comment now. :P Short answer is yes This is just my humble understanding of it :D Not a graduate of the Ventura Institute but I've worked with some industrial systems the oil is used to lubricate the compressor's valves the oil mixs with the refrigerate the mixture circulates thourgh the system together. Systems have a accumlator to catch the oil as it seperates from the refrigerate heading back to the compressor. The seals are to keep the refrigerate in the system and moisture out. By running your system some you are letting the oil keep the seals soft and plyable and keeping the compressor valves free. They can stick causing cooling problems or worst case compressor failure. If you are wondering why they don't use R-12 anymore in cars its due to its a non - renewable resource once we use it all theres no more, R-134 is made from sources that are renewable. Thanks for verification on part of this, but I'm confused about the 2nd part....I thought R12 was stopped because it harms the ozone layer. Also what is the normal environment of your garage. The environment in my garage is lots of unburnt hydrocarbons. Maybe that's why I feel lightheaded sometimes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shel-b001 Posted September 9, 2006 Report Share Posted September 9, 2006 I change the oil right where she will be sitting or as close too & then change all the fluids & top them all off so they are full to minimize any air with moister in it, Fill the Gas Tank completely with high octane premium fuel & add a fuel stabilizer to the tank so it doesn’t condensate from any air being in the tank, start the car up for 3 minutes to get the stabilizer up to & into the fuel lines, then spray a fogging oil into the air intake so the motor stalls so the cylinder walls are coated in oil and then jack the car up & place stands under it to unload the spring weight, discount the positive side of the battery & last but not least I’m buying this “Car Capsule” to keep the varmints out & the new car smell locked in. www.carcapsule.com They also have them for cycles. www.cycledome.com `ColdwaterHotrod ` When you jack your car do you let the wheels hang from the suspension???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ColdwaterHotrod Posted September 9, 2006 Report Share Posted September 9, 2006 `ColdwaterHotrod ` When you jack your car you do let the wheels hang from the suspension???? For the most part, yes. The Jack stands I have allow me to adjust the height so the wheels are just barely touching the ground, but not up high enough to pull down the springs or struts with the added weight of the rim/tire. The rear is supported under the areas where you would normally change your tire with a scissor or bottle jack, again allowing for some light contact with the ground. I have seen some cars that if you leave the tires on & then release all weight, when you go to sit it back down to drive it, the car has a 1" or more ground clearance. Hope this answer your question as to why I do it this way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kb67 Posted September 9, 2006 Report Share Posted September 9, 2006 I'm confused about the 2nd part....I thought R12 was stopped because it harms the ozone layer. The environment in my garage is lots of unburnt hydrocarbons. You are correct, I was mistaken when clean air act was put into effect the production of R-12 was stopped R-134 was the replacement they developed. Humble apology for incorrect information Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jesse_Bolt Posted September 10, 2006 Report Share Posted September 10, 2006 No....a closed box. Sorry Jesse...I couldn't resist. You owe me a smart-ass comment now. I'm lost. That comment went way over my head. I wish I could laugh at it, but I'm laughing at not understanding it. Maybe I'm missing sump'tin. JB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alloy Dave Posted September 10, 2006 Report Share Posted September 10, 2006 I'm lost. That comment went way over my head. I wish I could laugh at it, but I'm laughing at not understanding it. Maybe I'm missing sump'tin. JB You had said "an open box of Arm and Hammer baking soda" was your guess as to how he kept the smell fresh in his car...and I responded with "no, a closed box". Never mind. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shelbang Posted September 11, 2006 Report Share Posted September 11, 2006 does it matter if the battery tickler plugs in the cigarette lighter or the battery terminals ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carnut Posted September 11, 2006 Report Share Posted September 11, 2006 does it matter if the battery tickler plugs in the cigarette lighter or the battery terminals ? Shouldn't matter as the rate of change is so low Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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