DRIVE SHAFT

[zdle]

This is hard to say. I suspect SAI doesn't adjust it in any way. I intentionally did not address this for several reasons.

 

- not clear that it needs to be adjusted for a mild lowering like the S-GT

 

- notice the upper UCA is shorter than the LCAs and the diagram I drew, while stylistic, is closer to an unlowered GT500 geometry than an SGT in that the UCA angles up slightly from the diff to mount on a GT500 but it is nearly level on a SGT (from photos I've seen).

 

- as an S197 is lowered from stock height (diff moves higher relative to chassis), the UCA initially pushes the diff back a tad, thus taking some of the preload out as UCA gets parallel to the ground (as in SGT). If you now use an aftermarket UCA with a front poly bushing which deflects less than the stocker, a bit less pinion preload might be perfect. Also, the SGT makes less Tq tan a GT500, so the angled and shorter UCA (vs LCAs) might have been designed to accommodate the FRP lowering kit on the GT -- dunno, and dunno how much that big rear (diff-mounted bushing) compresses on accel.

 

- my gut is that's it's likely safe to ratain the factory dial-in unless lowered substantially and more torque is also added.

 

Given all these variables I hesitated to open that can of snakes since I don't know how much is dialed in on a stock SGT to begin with (even tho it's likely just the result of the FRP handling pack and springs with no other adjustment). The aftermarket UCAs usually suggest 2-3* negative angle (pinion nose down), but even that has to be assuming some level of torque and amount of bushing deflection. In the 'old days' you'd find a guy with an automatic who was making similar HP and measure how much actual wrap-up there was when power braking (a very dangerous preocedure!) and then just dial a similar amount negative angle in (using axle-plate shims under the leaf springs) for the 4-speed cars. But leaf springs had huge amounts of wrap-up compared to modern multi-point rear suspensions so my *guess* would be that the factory preload angle is probably fine since it likely varies over only a small range. And if you add more torque but go with a stiffer-bushed (aftermarket) UCA, that sort of cancels each other out and you're still likely fine. Without taking actual measurements on an individual car it's hard to be more precise, though I suspect 2-3* is a resonable 'blind' preload angle. There are many GT500s, lowered and not, with aftermarket UCAs dialed in at 2-3* and no one seems to be having problems. Admittedly a poor answer (because we don't know if it could be better) but, lacking actual measurement of load-deflection [somehow], might be the safest assumption.

 

If you do change the UCA when changing to a one-piece driveshaft, measure the plumb angle of the trans universal flange (surrogate for tailshaft angle with ground) and also the pinion universal flange (ditto). It should be -2-3*. This way if your best approximation in matching the length of the aftermarket UCA to the stocker gives you a dial-in not in the 2-3* range after you reassemble it, you'll know it while it's easy to correct on the adjustable UCA. But if you're just replacing the 2-piece with a 1-piece (no UCA swap), I'd just bolt it in and accept the factory setting. Would be good to know what that is but if you choose to measure it remember you need to measure it on level ground with the front wheels chocked and the emergency brake off because you don't want anything exerting a pre-load on the multi-point bushings. Also, *if* you change the LCAs too, then I think it's a good idea to go with an aftermarket adjustable UCA because some variation has been seen in factory vs aftermarket LCA length (bushing center-to-center) and an adjustable UCA can correct for that.

 

Another consideration if lowering your car (as SGT is already) is to measure lateral centering of the axle under the chassis. This is probably best done aesthetically by measuring the *lateral* (not vertical) tire to wheel-well lip. If it's off (typically is off a little) an adjustable panhard can be used to correct that. This is usefull as clearance gets tight with lowered cars and larger skins so they don't kiss the sheetmetal when the car launchs and the up-angled panhard rod pushes the body slightly to one side as the car squats down.

 

These are all reasonable compromises, imo. While the UCA can dial in actual preload beased on bushing deflection (if known) and a Watts link can eliminate the offset-squat of the panhard (even an adjustable panhard creates dynamic loading that is suboptimal) ...ultimately it all depends how you'll use the car and how 'perfect' it needs to be. Road racers correct and adjust for all of that and much more.

 

Dan

 

Dan , well written description , of a complex set of variable, I have a Fays2 Watts link on my SGT , aluminum drive shaft , and the Steeda billet LCA's The car launches beauftifully , and corners great on the 20" Razors , but sometimes I get what seems like a drivetrain noise , over small bumps , no sign of this over big dips, nothing bottoms , and the watts link is always silent..............So I thought it may be somthing a adjustable UCA might improve . I have had the car on the track at Willow Springs , and it is great , then drive back to Santa Maria 200 miles no problem . So if you have any other ideas ...............hey I'd love to hear...............Zale

[LuLu]

Dan , well written description , of a complex set of variable, I have a Fays2 Watts link on my SGT , aluminum drive shaft , and the Steeda billet LCA's The car launches beauftifully , and corners great on the 20" Razors , but sometimes I get what seems like a drivetrain noise , over small bumps , no sign of this over big dips, nothing bottoms , and the watts link is always silent..............So I thought it may be somthing a adjustable UCA might improve . I have had the car on the track at Willow Springs , and it is great , then drive back to Santa Maria 200 miles no problem . So if you have any other ideas ...............hey I'd love to hear...............Zale

Adjustable UCA and adjustable LCAs?

 

I think you need only one, or, the other two. Both will get you to the same place, but installing both is redundant.

 

Have to ask...What specs are you adjusting to? What's your pinion angle at rest, and, under WOT?

 

That asked...A solid 1-piece aluminum drive shaft and improved LCAs will deliver more road harmonics into the passenger cabin, it's a side-effect of locking things down. This also occurs with the improved adjustable UCA, but the harmonics go with the territory, yes?

 

20" Razors do not control the impact of overall tire performance at large. What tires are your driving on? Brand? Size? Overall diameter? PSI?

 

It all comes down to where the rubber meets the road. Improve all the suspension components you wish, and it all still comes down to tires. Some stick better while reverberating friction and vibration, while others deliver performance. Some do not achieve either goal.

 

What you want, is all a matter of how you get there?

[68fastback]

Sifting through the rhetoric here, I just want to remove any confusion for SGT owners. An adjustable upper control arm is required when upgrading to a one-piece drive shaft. The SGT is 1.5" lower and the rear suspension geometry will be out of whack. The pinion angle must be corrected and if you choose to skip this upgrade, you will damage other components.

 

Moreover, adjustable lower control arms with poly bushing (as opposed to Heim joints) are indeed available. Peek here?

 

http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=RSH65+01

 

If you don't like Roush stuff and want all thing Shelby on your SGT, SPP offers poly bushing adjustable LCA under P/N SS3Z-5A649-BPP.

 

Just keeping it real for the SGT owner...

 

The drive shaft swap does not change the pinion angle or 3-ling geometry one iota vs stock and therefore an adjustable UCA is not required. It is needed if you want other than the factory pinion pre-load angle (whatever it actually is).

 

That said, lowering of the SGT will dial-out a little pinion pre-load (as my post above explains and the diagram shows) because of the unequal UCA/LCA lengths and angles, but that has nothing to do with a one-piece drive shaft in any way.

 

The main reason an adjustable UCA is a good idea for the stiffer poly bushings to control S197 wheel-hop, especially if you're going to upgrade the LCAs with poly-bushed pieces which are known to sometimes vary slightly from stock c-t-c lengths and therfore an adjustable UCA can correct for that -- you don't need both upper and lowers to be adjustable to correct for that, but thanks for the info on there being adjustable poly LCAs -- I wasn't aware or that.

 

Adjustable LCAs can permit adjustments to be done if the LCA torque-box mounts are mislocated from the factory (unlikely, plus the panhard angle dynamics introduces far more error, imo) or if installing LCA axle-mount extensions which are not extremely precise pieces and should be welded (not just bolted) such that the length from torque-box mount hole to lower axle-mount extension hole are identical on both sides anyway.

 

In summary, no UCA swap required for one-piece shaft, but I'd recommend it anyway for wheel hop and to correct pinion angle if aftermarket LCAs or ale-mount extensions cause it to change. Btw, those mount etensions are specificall designed for lowered cars (I'd suggest using the lowest hole) to refocus the 3-point geometry on the lowered center of mass for better launch/traction (and that also has no affect on the DS swap).

 

-Dan

[68fastback]

Dan , well written description , of a complex set of variable, I have a Fays2 Watts link on my SGT , aluminum drive shaft , and the Steeda billet LCA's The car launches beauftifully , and corners great on the 20" Razors , but sometimes I get what seems like a drivetrain noise , over small bumps , no sign of this over big dips, nothing bottoms , and the watts link is always silent..............So I thought it may be somthing a adjustable UCA might improve . I have had the car on the track at Willow Springs , and it is great , then drive back to Santa Maria 200 miles no problem . So if you have any other ideas ...............hey I'd love to hear...............Zale

 

You can probably benefit from an aftermarket UCA to tighten things up further but I don't think the noise has anything to do with the UCA (if anything the factory peice is a quiet as you'll likely find).

 

I agree with Mac that you don't need adjustable LCAs too -- an adjustable UCA can correct pinion angle, if neecessary.

 

Do you have axle-mount extentions installed for the billed LCAs? Welded or just bolted? Has the rear bolt loosened? Hard to guess on this -- transient noises can be hard to locate. Possibly small bumps are causing an exhaust component to rub or buzz? Stock headers? ...some have very close clearance to steering wheel shaft. Dunno... just swags.

 

Btw, if you don't have extentions (they're not necessary) they might help you bite a little better coming out of slow/tight turns because they permit better weight transfer with the lowered SGT suspension. They are considered necesary to 'hook' at the drags but should also be a benefit on a road course (be sure to have them welded, see post above). Some manufactureres include them with their LCAs because so many folks go with lowered springs.

[mciarochi]

I have been reading and learning, and have a comment/question on the adjustable LCA.

 

I thought the Pinion was set on the UCA (I think we're all pretty clear on that. I was under the impression that the LCA adjustment gave you the ability to center the wheels in the well, and align the axle. The complete adjustment with a Watts would be:

 

 

• Center the axle laterally using the Watts Link
  
• Center the wheels in the well (front-to-back)
  
• Check the alignment of the axle (I'd measure from the axle end to the center point between the front suspensions).
  
• If adjustment is necessary, move the rear wheels equally in opposite directions using the LCA.
  
• Adjust the pinion angle.
  

I had made this assumption, and was planning to pick up the adjustable LCA's just to have the ability to align the axle. They are not that much additional cost.

 

Thoughts?

[68fastback]

I have been reading and learning, and have a comment/question on the adjustable LCA.

 

I thought the Pinion was set on the UCA (I think we're all pretty clear on that. I was under the impression that the LCA adjustment gave you the ability to center the wheels in the well, and align the axle. The complete adjustment with a Watts would be:

 

 

• Center the axle laterally using the Watts Link

• Center the wheels in the well (front-to-back)

• Check the alignment of the axle (I'd measure from the axle end to the center point between the front suspensions).

• If adjustment is necessary, move the rear wheels equally in opposite directions using the LCA.

• Adjust the pinion angle.

I had made this assumption, and was planning to pick up the adjustable LCA's just to have the ability to align the axle. They are not that much additional cost.

 

Thoughts?

 

Adjustable UCA and LCAs both only move the axle front-to-back. If the UCA is made shorter it adds pinion pre-load angle by tipping the pinion nose down. If the LCAs are lengthened, it will do the same thing.

 

You don't have much adjustment of the wheels front-to-back since that would involve lengthening/shortening *both* the UCA and LCAs equally while making certain not to cause bind or overextension of the driveshaft slip-joint, though I suppose slight front/back adjustments could be useful.

 

The Panhard rod is what locates the axle side-to-side under the chassis and a Watts link accomplishes the same thing just more accurately since a properly installed Watts is unaffected by ride height and suspension travel whereas a Panhard, no matter how well adjusted, causes lateral 'waddle' as ride height changes over bumps and on accel/decel, etc.

 

Dan

[zdle]

You can probably benefit from an aftermarket UCA to tighten things up further but I don't think the noise has anything to do with the UCA (if anything the factory peice is a quiet as you'll likely find).

 

I agree with Mac that you don't need adjustable LCAs too -- an adjustable UCA can correct pinion angle, if neecessary.

 

Do you have axle-mount extentions installed for the billed LCAs? Welded or just bolted? Has the rear bolt loosened? Hard to guess on this -- transient noises can be hard to locate. Possibly small bumps are causing an exhaust component to rub or buzz? Stock headers? ...some have very close clearance to steering wheel shaft. Dunno... just swags.

 

Btw, if you don't have extentions (they're not necessary) they might help you bite a little better coming out of slow/tight turns because they permit better weight transfer with the lowered SGT suspension. They are considered necesary to 'hook' at the drags but should also be a benefit on a road course (be sure to have them welded, see post above). Some manufactureres include them with their LCAs because so many folks go with lowered springs.

 

Ya , actually every thing seems right and tight , and it handles great .......................but I do see a crease in both pipes right at the radius over the axle before the mufflers , and I know its the imprint ot the big red frame of the watts link that has crunched it there , not bad though , I'm not sure this is the noise but the rest of the exhaust could be rattling .................................Zale

[68fastback]

Ya , actually every thing seems right and tight , and it handles great .......................but I do see a crease in both pipes right at the radius over the axle before the mufflers , and I know its the imprint ot the big red frame of the watts link that has crunched it there , not bad though , I'm not sure this is the noise but the rest of the exhaust could be rattling .................................Zale

 

Ah, so the fixed/chassis-mounted part of the Fays-2 is getting whacked by the pipes as they vibe over bumps. Interesting, and good to know. There's a lot of play in those rubber exhaust hangers.

 

Possibly you can loosen a few clamps and rotate the mufflers a bit to raise the pipe a bit? Glad you found the problem!!!

[AstroDan]

If you don't like Roush stuff on your SGT and want to keep things all Shelby, SPP offers poly bushing adjustable LCA under P/N SS3Z-5A649-BPP.

 

Just keeping it real for the SGT owner...

 

OK. I just ordered the LFP shaft and UCA like yours. Jesse at LFP was very helpfull. There is adjustable LCA available from LFP also. LFP Adjustable LCA

 

I told Jesse that I will wait on the LCA, and do that as the same time as a 2watt link...

There is another open dyno day early next month and I will post the numbers...

Thanks

Dan

[LuLu]

OK. I just ordered the LFP shaft and UCA like yours. Jesse at LFP was very helpfull. There is adjustable LCA available from LFP also. LFP Adjustable LCA

 

I told Jesse that I will wait on the LCA, and do that as the same time as a 2watt link...

There is another open dyno day early next month and I will post the numbers...

Thanks

Dan

Good for you, Dan, you made a great choice. Thanks for the 411 on the LCA.

[AstroDan]

I got the new Coast aluminum DS and adjustable UCA installed today!

My SOTP feeleing is that it's quicker. Mostly though, it is a LOT smoother. Up and down-shifting while into the power feels a lot smother and tighter. Tomorrow night is a local dyno day and I will post the sheet....

Here is the original UCA:

 

 

New UCA:

 

 

DS:

 

 

I know I'm not alone, but the more I continue to drive this car (and add modifications), the more I like it.

It really is an awesome car.

Dan

Dan

[RogerS]

I got the new Coast aluminum DS and adjustable UCA installed today!

My SOTP feeleing is that it's quicker. Mostly though, it is a LOT smoother. Up and down-shifting while into the power feels a lot smother and tighter. Tomorrow night is a local dyno day and I will post the sheet....

 

I know I'm not alone, but the more I continue to drive this car (and add modifications), the more I like it.

It really is an awesome car.

Dan

 

Awesome Dan. Looking good and adding quality upgrades. Way to go. Good luck at the dyno.

 

Roger

[LuLu]

Bravo! Good for you, Dan!

[AstroDan]

Well, I dyno'd on Friday night as planned. I was disappointed to say the least.

 

I am at work so I cannot post the sheet, but two pulls came out at 278rwhp and 279rwhp. I upgraded to 9-1/2" CS69's and 285/40's so that was a net gain in rotational mass from the stock 8-1/2" and 235/50's. I did not weigh the new tire/wheel combo but the DS should have netted me a few lbs lowering overall... My SOTP feeling is that it is quicker and faster.

 

The dyno-tech said that there was a vibration during the run and maybe the computere sensed this and "corrected". You can see the dips on the dyno sheet. I will post the sheet tonight.

 

Yesterday, I took the car back to my mechanic and pulled it over the pit to take a look. We didn't noticed anything amiss. The shaft is still set at 2-1/2*, (Think of the differential pointing "down" to the shaft) and everything was tight and looked perfect.

We went out for a test-drive, and in the passsenger seat both of us felt a mild vibration at @4150rpm under the passengers left foot near the tunnel a little forward of the shifter... It isn't noticeable in the drivers seat. (Afterward, I think I could feel it slightly, but it could be my over-active imagination)

 

Suggestions? Comments?

The shaft pointing "down" at an angle of 2-1/2* to the differential is correct, right? Thsi is what LFP told the Mechanic over the phone.

I am limiting my "spirited" driving until this issue is resolved.

Thanks in advance

Dan

[69dejavue]

Well, I dyno'd on Friday night as planned. I was disappointed to say the least.

 

I am at work so I cannot post the sheet, but two pulls came out at 278rwhp and 279rwhp. I upgraded to 9-1/2" CS69's and 285/40's so that was a net gain in rotational mass from the stock 8-1/2" and 235/50's. I did not weigh the new tire/wheel combo but the DS should have netted me a few lbs lowering overall... My SOTP feeling is that it is quicker and faster.

 

The dyno-tech said that there was a vibration during the run and maybe the computere sensed this and "corrected". You can see the dips on the dyno sheet. I will post the sheet tonight.

 

Yesterday, I took the car back to my mechanic and pulled it over the pit to take a look. We didn't noticed anything amiss. The shaft is still set at 2-1/2*, (Think of the differential pointing "down" to the shaft) and everything was tight and looked perfect.

We went out for a test-drive, and in the passsenger seat both of us felt a mild vibration at @4150rpm under the passengers left foot near the tunnel a little forward of the shifter... It isn't noticeable in the drivers seat. (Afterward, I think I could feel it slightly, but it could be my over-active imagination)

 

Suggestions? Comments?

The shaft pointing "down" at an angle of 2-1/2* to the differential is correct, right? Thsi is what LFP told the Mechanic over the phone.

I am limiting my "spirited" driving until this issue is resolved.

Thanks in advance

Dan

 

Dan, are there any clearance issues? Also, I believe one reason Ford went with the two piece drive shaft was to reduce vibrations.

[zdle]

Ah, so the fixed/chassis-mounted part of the Fays-2 is getting whacked by the pipes as they vibe over bumps. Interesting, and good to know. There's a lot of play in those rubber exhaust hangers.

 

Possibly you can loosen a few clamps and rotate the mufflers a bit to raise the pipe a bit? Glad you found the problem!!!

 

 

OK , I installed the UCA (Steeda Adjustable) last night......................painfull , I set the length oh maybe 1/10" shorter than the OEM UCA , primarily because the instructions rcommended it for a general rule, and I figured for this car and the rough suspension tolerances it couldn't hurt anything. Again what a pain , the Coast Alum drive shaft was easier , but the piece is such a stiff and well made unit I knew it should improve the handling . and it did. In Santa Maria we have a new commercial area with new rouna-a-bouts Euro style right near my house , and with every new suspension mod I make to the SGT I can wait till about 11:30 PM , and do some nice test loops thru about 8 real nice circles and turns , sometime theres a little water too .....................ya. Too much fun. Anyway the car gets better , a more predictable feel thru the steering wheel the more stiff and tight you can make the suspension , and in a way the ride seems to improve , though there is a bit more noise, Don't care bout the noise because that connection to the surface feels oh so sweet. No new noise , no vibrations up to 100mph so far, no bottoming , just a good mod...................I droped a 1/2" extension twice that hit me in the face !, hit my head on the jack stand 6 times, but hey the car runs soooo sweet , I'm ready for the SPEC Aluminum Fly Wheel , and Stage 1 Clutch I have sitting in the garage , Any suggestions out there on that mod. I am preparing to take the car back to Willow Springs Sept 26 , hope to have it dialed in before then.

 

SO far here is what I have done : Steeda Billet (none adjustabel) LCA , Steeda Adjustable UCA , FAY2 Watts Link , Coast Alu One Piece Drive Shaft , MSD Coil Set , Brenspeed Tune , Shelby (Baer) 14" Rotors /Calipers Front/Rear , 20" Razors , 20" Falcon Tires , Every two track weekends I will drain and change Engine Oil Mobil-1 5W20, Trany 75/90 Mobil-1 Sy , and 75/90 Mobil-1 Syn for the Diff Anybody think its worth using Royal Purple over Mobil-1 ??? .. ...................ZDS

[69dejavue]

OK , I installed the UCA (Steeda Adjustable) last night......................painfull , I set the length oh maybe 1/10" shorter than the OEM UCA , primarily because the instructions rcommended it for a general rule, and I figured for this car and the rough suspension tolerances it couldn't hurt anything. Again what a pain , the Coast Alum drive shaft was easier , but the piece is such a stiff and well made unit I knew it should improve the handling . and it did. In Santa Maria we have a new commercial area with new rouna-a-bouts Euro style right near my house , and with every new suspension mod I make to the SGT I can wait till about 11:30 PM , and do some nice test loops thru about 8 real nice circles and turns , sometime theres a little water too .....................ya. Too much fun. Anyway the car gets better , a more predictable feel thru the steering wheel the more stiff and tight you can make the suspension , and in a way the ride seems to improve , though there is a bit more noise, Don't care bout the noise because that connection to the surface feels oh so sweet. No new noise , no vibrations up to 100mph so far, no bottoming , just a good mod...................I droped a 1/2" extension twice that hit me in the face !, hit my head on the jack stand 6 times, but hey the car runs soooo sweet , I'm ready for the SPEC Aluminum Fly Wheel , and Stage 1 Clutch I have sitting in the garage , Any suggestions out there on that mod. I am preparing to take the car back to Willow Springs Sept 26 , hope to have it dialed in before then.

 

SO far here is what I have done : Steeda Billet (none adjustabel) LCA , Steeda Adjustable UCA , FAY2 Watts Link , Coast Alu One Piece Drive Shaft , MSD Coil Set , Brenspeed Tune , Shelby (Baer) 14" Rotors /Calipers Front/Rear , 20" Razors , 20" Falcon Tires , Every two track weekends I will drain and change Engine Oil Mobil-1 5W20, Trany 75/90 Mobil-1 Sy , and 75/90 Mobil-1 Syn for the Diff Anybody think its worth using Royal Purple over Mobil-1 ??? .. ...................ZDS

 

 

ZDLE- check the owner's manual. I believe you are supposed to be using a heavier differential fluid> I believe Ford requires 75-140, full synthetic.

[RogerS]

You may want to look at the RAM dual disc clutch set up. It's pricey but has almost stock feel and PLENTY of gripping power.

[AstroDan]

Dan, are there any clearance issues? Also, I believe one reason Ford went with the two piece drive shaft was to reduce vibrations.

 

No clearance issues that was noticeable. If the shaft was rubbing at times, there would be score-marks, and there isn't. It looks perfect underneath. There is a potential clearance issue that is resolved by "light hammering" on a sheet metal bulge that was taken care of easily.

 

Dan

[69dejavue]

ZDLE- check the owner's manual. I believe you are supposed to be using a heavier differential fluid> I believe Ford requires 75-140, full synthetic.

 

ZDLE- is there a reason why you use the lighter differential fluid? If you chew up a rear end I would think Ford would not cover under warranty if you are not using the heavier fluid.

[68fastback]

OK , I installed the UCA (Steeda Adjustable) last night......................painfull , I set the length oh maybe 1/10" shorter than the OEM UCA , primarily because the instructions rcommended it for a general rule, and I figured for this car and the rough suspension tolerances it couldn't hurt anything. Again what a pain , the Coast Alum drive shaft was easier , but the piece is such a stiff and well made unit I knew it should improve the handling . and it did. In Santa Maria we have a new commercial area with new rouna-a-bouts Euro style right near my house , and with every new suspension mod I make to the SGT I can wait till about 11:30 PM , and do some nice test loops thru about 8 real nice circles and turns , sometime theres a little water too .....................ya. Too much fun. Anyway the car gets better , a more predictable feel thru the steering wheel the more stiff and tight you can make the suspension , and in a way the ride seems to improve , though there is a bit more noise, Don't care bout the noise because that connection to the surface feels oh so sweet. No new noise , no vibrations up to 100mph so far, no bottoming , just a good mod...................I droped a 1/2" extension twice that hit me in the face !, hit my head on the jack stand 6 times, but hey the car runs soooo sweet , I'm ready for the SPEC Aluminum Fly Wheel , and Stage 1 Clutch I have sitting in the garage , Any suggestions out there on that mod. I am preparing to take the car back to Willow Springs Sept 26 , hope to have it dialed in before then.

 

SO far here is what I have done : Steeda Billet (none adjustabel) LCA , Steeda Adjustable UCA , FAY2 Watts Link , Coast Alu One Piece Drive Shaft , MSD Coil Set , Brenspeed Tune , Shelby (Baer) 14" Rotors /Calipers Front/Rear , 20" Razors , 20" Falcon Tires , Every two track weekends I will drain and change Engine Oil Mobil-1 5W20, Trany 75/90 Mobil-1 Sy , and 75/90 Mobil-1 Syn for the Diff Anybody think its worth using Royal Purple over Mobil-1 ??? .. ...................ZDS

 

Sounds like a fun set-up!!! I'm thinking 5W30 might be better for the track now. Royal Purple is outstanding but M1 should be fine too. Does the SGT spec 5W20? I thought the MGT does but that the SGT recommends 5W30? Dunno...

[zdle]

ZDLE- is there a reason why you use the lighter differential fluid? If you chew up a rear end I would think Ford would not cover under warranty if you are not using the heavier fluid.

 

 

 

Sorry ...........thats a mistake I use manual specified oil 75 - 140 .

[LuLu]

Does the SGT spec 5W20? I thought the MGT does but that the SGT recommends 5W30? Dunno...

All manuals and resources (including Ford) state 5W20 engine oil, all except the sticker under the hood from Shelby. Why has not been sufficiently explained IMHO. Shelby does not modify the stock 4.6L-3V internally, and I don't understand this change myself. My advice is to stick with the 5W20, at least until the factory warranty expires.

[68fastback]

Thanks, Mac ...good insight.

 

Possibly SAI specs 5W30 for better protection under severe use/temps? (GT500 is 5W50) I suspect Ford specs 5W20 on the stocker primarily for the tiny milage increase in the EPA ckt

 

But you raise a good question. If SAI says 5W30 could the warranty require that if there was a problem? I would use 5W30 full-synth just for the super-low ash content and longer engine life (but maybe that's just me).

 

My old 4.0L Ranger has a similar conflict: Manual says 5W30, engine says "only 10W30" (I use the latter in summer and former in winter) and Ford hot line (after two conference calls) said to always follow engine-compartment sticker if it disagrees with manual.

 

If someone calls in, please let us know.

[69dejavue]

Thanks, Mac ...good insight.

 

Possibly SAI specs 5W30 for better protection under severe use/temps? (GT500 is 5W50) I suspect Ford specs 5W20 on the stocker primarily for the tiny milage increase in the EPA ckt

 

But you raise a good question. If SAI says 5W30 could the warranty require that if there was a problem? I would use 5W30 full-synth just for the super-low ash content and longer engine life (but maybe that's just me).

 

My old 4.0L Ranger has a similar conflict: Manual says 5W30, engine says "only 10W30" (I use the latter in summer and former in winter) and Ford hot line (after two conference calls) said to always follow engine-compartment sticker if it disagrees with manual.

 

If someone calls in, please let us know.

 

Only Ford could tell us for sure. The 4.6 engine started off as a 5W-30 engine years ago. Unless Ford changed the side clearances and other clearances then 30 weight should still be ok. JMO, but I think Ford changed to 20 weight to gain the slight advantage in gas mileage. But that is only my opinion. I realize the oil is also a cooling function. SAI stated they added the 30 weight sticker because they expected Shelby owners would drive the vehicles harder and require the added protection of 30 over 20. But this issue has been discussed ad nauseum in the past.