DRIVE SHAFT

[69dejavue]

Has anyone replaced their stock drive shaft with an aluminum shaft? What brand? Any install problems? Any vibration at high speed, high rpm? Any recommendations for brand such as Spydershaft, etc? Results? Thank you.

[68fastback]

No first hand experience here, but the Dynotech seamless one-piece shafts seem to be trouble-free on the GT500s. In the back of my mind I recall the S/GT takes one that 1" longer(??) than the GT500? Fred at Evo will know for sure.

[LuLu]

I've used the DynoTech driveshaft on my Marauders, it's a few more coins, but worth it. Flawless.

[Revans310]

I went with axle-exchange easy install with no vibrations.

 

axle-exchange

[69dejavue]

Any spyder shafts or Drive Shaft Shop units out there?

[t-red04snake]

I added the drive shaft from STEEDA with no problems on the install. I did notice less vibration

at highway speeds and alot less clunking in the drive train when putting my car in reverse. (My

car is an automatic).

 

http://www.steeda.com/products/steeda_alum...driveshafts.php

[69dejavue]

I added the drive shaft from STEEDA with no problems on the install. I did notice less vibration

at highway speeds and alot less clunking in the drive train when putting my car in reverse. (My

car is an automatic).

 

http://www.steeda.com/products/steeda_alum...driveshafts.php

 

Was this a straight bolt in or did you also have to have any adjustment to the ring and pinion? I read where this is a 3.5 shaft which tapers to 4". Any clearance problems? Thank you

[RStangsOC]

Hey there,

 

We sell the driveshaft from Coast Driveline. Its not on our web site (yet) but here is a link to their web site- http://www.coastdriveline.com/NEW_Mustang.htm

 

They claim 14HP and 16 TQ.

 

HOPE to have it up on our web site next week one day - now that I am adding parts to the web

 

Page

[ilmor]

Would it also free up all that torque and HP on a stock Shelby GT? I'm assuming not, and that it might free up 5 or 6 hp, but of course I could be wrong - I'm just guessing. Still, that's good.

[69dejavue]

Page, I am curious. Obviously your drive shaft sounds very promising. However, the issues I have read is not just the clearance issue but rather the clearance issue with a lowered vehicle. As you know the SGT is lowered about 1.5 inches. In addition this states there could be a clearance issue with an aftermarket shifter and we have an aftermarket shifter. The Coast is supposed to save 20 pounds but others are stating their drive shafts reduce the weight, and subsequent rotating intertia, by 30 pounds. I am not an expert on this issue and am only posing questions based on what I have read. Savings of 30 pounds, picking up 10 or more HP, less stress on the engine, less weight on the vehicle, sounds like one of the first mods to make if you cannot go the SC route all at once.

[LuLu]

I called Coast Drivieline and Gear... http://www.coastdriveline.com/NEW_Mustang.htm (800.533.8087), and spoke with "Bill" for about half an hour. He is quite familiar with the GT 500, our SGTs and the California Special. (Finally, someone who know the difference!) He mentioned that his shop has installed over 100 of their driveshafts on the S197 frame, and shared some notes.

 

Install is relatively simple and if you are handy around cars and tools, it's a DIY project. Their performance shaft weighs 16 pounds, considerably less than the OEM two-piece assembly.

 

Critical mass (whip) is up around 7900 RPMs, well out of reach for any stock 4.6L engine.

 

Because our SGT is lowered, there may be a bottle neck where the shaft meets the floor pan in the rear, near the rear end assembly. He said this was a concern with the '07, but not the '08. It's adjusted with a little "hammering" on the floor pan, and I asked him if it was a big hammer or a small hammer. He replied small, just a sheet metal flange to move out of the way, and it's not required on all '07s.

 

Because our SGTs are lowered, an adjustable upper control arm is necessary to correct the pinion angle after install and they make an adjustable UCA for the SGT. The OEM UCA mount does not have to be changed out.

 

He also talked about power gains (which are obvious to me due to weight reduction alone, not to mention sealing up the torque leaks of a two-piece assembly), but I'm shy about such brags and rather do my own testing.

 

The drive shaft is approximately 590.00, and the adjustable UCA is another 180.00, but I won't have exact prices until next week. Bill said he will call me Monday with the total, including shipping, and I'll update y'all on costs.

 

There was no mention of any conflicts with shifter assemblies, and frankly, I don't understand why there would be any conflict. The drive shaft stops at the tranny tail shaft, yes? Oh well, we will see...

 

Yup...I placed an order, and after the install, I'll provide an update, including some dyno results.

 

Happy motoring, gents.

[greaser]

great to hear lulu thanks for being the mule.

[bigcarl1]

I have a Coast Driveline in my 07 SGT and have had no problem. The old drive line would vibrate between 110 and 135 on the straight away at the road course. I have over 500 mile on the course with no problem. I Dyno mine after install and gain 10rwhp. Carl

[69dejavue]

Carl, and LuLu, after install; any problems with rubbing when there are passengers in the rear and hitting a bump? That is one of the concerns that has been published before. Please let us know your results.

[William Rodgers]

I have a Coast Driveline in my 07 SGT and have had no problem. The old drive line would vibrate between 110 and 135 on the straight away at the road course. I have over 500 mile on the course with no problem. I Dyno mine after install and gain 10rwhp. Carl

 

 

10 RWHP is pretty good, how difficult is this to install??? I would imagine it probably adds about 10 lbs of torque as well. I am interested in the results of the clearance as well.

[LuLu]

10 RWHP is pretty good, how difficult is this to install??? I would imagine it probably adds about 10 lbs of torque as well. I am interested in the results of the clearance as well.

+1...Yes...If I get 10 RWHP and 10 RWTQ gains, I will be very pleased with my choice.

 

The stock two-piece drive shaft is 39+ pounds, and the Coast drive shaft is advertised as 16 pounds. Weight alone spells power gain to me. On top of that, elimination of two U-joints spells power gain by sealing off two additional torque leaks from drive train slack. There is power to be had here, but I'm not trusting the advertised numbers. I'll do my own testing.

 

Regarding the install...There is a one page .PDF at the Coast website. Download it and you will see that install is fairly straightforward. It warns of a sheet metal tab that may require some light "adjustment" on some cars, but it doesn't sound serious or major. "Bill" did talk about this issue.

 

BTW...Remember that an adjustable UCA is necessary to correct the pinion angle, and this is an additional expense over the cost of the drive shaft. The OEM UCA is fixed and "Bill" said Coast's adjustable UCA employs the factory mount.

 

Note: It occurs to me now that when SAI added the suspension bits that lowered the SGT 1.5 inches under stock specs, and did not upgrade the UCA to an adjustable, that all SGTs have incorrect pinion angles. This may be a wear problem down the road, we should check it out.

 

Carl, and LuLu, after install; any problems with rubbing when there are passengers in the rear and hitting a bump? That is one of the concerns that has been published before. Please let us know your results.

It will be a while before I can report. I don't have the drive shaft in house yet, and I am still under "house arrest" due to medical issues. Moreover, folks don't ride in my back seat, especially while I'm driving at high speed. I take risks, yes, but I don't expose others to my choice. Maybe someone else can chime in?

 

If my order gets shipped on Monday, I should have it by the end of the week. If so, maybe I'll have my dealership install it rather than delay results for y'all.

 

The Coast web site also mentions a possible conflict with shifter linkage, but I don't know more about this. I can't see why, it doesn't make sense to me. Maybe they had a knuckle buster install at one time? This issue did not come up in my talk with "Bill", and it's not mentioned in the .PDF, so, who knows? I don't.

 

More later, happy motoring, gents.

[69dejavue]

LuLu, I know you appear to research very well before discussing an issue. Is there any reason why you chose Coast as opposed to Spydershaft, Dynotech, and a host of others for your driveshaft?

[bigcarl1]

Carl, and LuLu, after install; any problems with rubbing when there are passengers in the rear and hitting a bump? That is one of the concerns that has been published before. Please let us know your results.

 

My Driveway in to my ranch is 2 miles and it is very bumpy and with my two grandson in the car with me(they both go over 200lbs and me at 225) there is no problems and I did have a new adjustable UCA installed. The drive line took about an hour. I had Speed Freaks in Tracy,Ca. do the install and they have done a number of the Coast Drive lines with no problems. I also gain 10lbs of torque. Carl

[LuLu]

LuLu, I know you appear to research very well before discussing an issue. Is there any reason why you chose Coast as opposed to Spydershaft, Dynotech, and a host of others for your driveshaft?

I am unable to post a reasonably logical answer here because I don't have a reasonably logical answer for "why" I do things.

 

I have entensive experience with Dynotech and have bought several drive shafts from them. I regard the Dynotech drive shaft as the best in the market, but "the best" is often the most expensive. Plus, Dynotech does not sell direct, you have to find a local dealer near you to order, and the product is "drop shipped" direct from Dynotech.

 

Moreover, in my "Marauder Daze" experience, the Dynotech drive shaft healed my drive shaft whip and vibration issues, and I drove that drive shaft to 160 MPH in testing. However, I did not see any HP or TQ gains on the dyno. None. But, this was a 4500 pound Panther frame car with several of it's own issues not present with the S197 frame and weight. Coast is making power gain claims, and I want to verify those claims.

 

I did not shop Spydershaft and I can't say why. I just didn't.

 

I did shop Coast, and I found the product and customer service impressive. "Bill" spent half an hour on the phone with me, and this is good karma. His first hand knowledge is likewise impressive, he offered answers to questions I didn't have to ask, as well as addressing issues I had no idea existed. Moreover, the cost of upgrading with Coast is reasonable, and "bang for the buck" is a factor we all should pay some attention to.

 

My last consideration is y'all...At large. When any mod comes on the market bragging of specific improvements, my LEO trained "nose" gets interested. I investigate, and only looking for the truth.

 

As I have with other mods, such as my exploration into my Pypes shorty header install and testing, y'all will hear the real results I have achieved, both good and bad. Y'all will know what to expect when you go shopping, and if the Coast drive shaft does indeed show power gains, I will report that. If not, I will report that as well.

 

So, I ordered a drive shaft from Coast and added their recommended accessories, and I will test them on my own. Whatever the results, I will post here, and y'all can decide for yourselves.

 

I love helping out the little guy when his story is in order and productive. If not, the little guy is toast.

[zdle]

Hey there,

 

We sell the driveshaft from Coast Driveline. Its not on our web site (yet) but here is a link to their web site- http://www.coastdriveline.com/NEW_Mustang.htm

 

They claim 14HP and 16 TQ.

 

HOPE to have it up on our web site next week one day - now that I am adding parts to the web

 

Page

 

I installed this drive shaft my self a year ago , and I put my car on the track at Willow springs 4 different times , and drove it HARD .........no problems , better response , smoother, shifts , and with 2 passengers it does not bottom out. You must drill a new hole to relocate an emergency brake bracket ...........it's not to hard if your a good wrench. I like this mod it reduces weight , and if you use a good billet lower control arm replacment like Steeda , this car launches with more authority . I also installed a Fays 2 Watts Link ...........a bit more complicated to set -up right , but wow it handles much better on the track . and with 20" Razors and performance tires the Watts Link seems to improve the overall street ride too................There are great mods for this car with popping 5 large for a Supercharger , and on the race track if you know what your doing the GT will stay with the 500.............................ZDS

[zdle]

Page, I am curious. Obviously your drive shaft sounds very promising. However, the issues I have read is not just the clearance issue but rather the clearance issue with a lowered vehicle. As you know the SGT is lowered about 1.5 inches. In addition this states there could be a clearance issue with an aftermarket shifter and we have an aftermarket shifter. The Coast is supposed to save 20 pounds but others are stating their drive shafts reduce the weight, and subsequent rotating intertia, by 30 pounds. I am not an expert on this issue and am only posing questions based on what I have read. Savings of 30 pounds, picking up 10 or more HP, less stress on the engine, less weight on the vehicle, sounds like one of the first mods to make if you cannot go the SC route all at once.

 

Clearence is not an issue if you do the relocation of the emergency brake bracket as directed .................My 4" Coast Driveline drive shaft is a great mod , and I run the car at Willow Springs HARD...................ZDS

[69dejavue]

I am unable to post a reasonably logical answer here because I don't have a reasonably logical answer for "why" I do things.

 

I have entensive experience with Dynotech and have bought several drive shafts from them. I regard the Dynotech drive shaft as the best in the market, but "the best" is often the most expensive. Plus, Dynotech does not sell direct, you have to find a local dealer near you to order, and the product is "drop shipped" direct from Dynotech.

 

Moreover, in my "Marauder Daze" experience, the Dynotech drive shaft healed my drive shaft whip and vibration issues, and I drove that drive shaft to 160 MPH in testing. However, I did not see any HP or TQ gains on the dyno. None. But, this was a 4500 pound Panther frame car with several of it's own issues not present with the S197 frame and weight. Coast is making power gain claims, and I want to verify those claims.

 

I did not shop Spydershaft and I can't say why. I just didn't.

 

I did shop Coast, and I found the product and customer service impressive. "Bill" spent half an hour on the phone with me, and this is good karma. His first hand knowledge is likewise impressive, he offered answers to questions I didn't have to ask, as well as addressing issues I had no idea existed. Moreover, the cost of upgrading with Coast is reasonable, and "bang for the buck" is a factor we all should pay some attention to.

 

My last consideration is y'all...At large. When any mod comes on the market bragging of specific improvements, my LEO trained "nose" gets interested. I investigate, and only looking for the truth.

 

As I have with other mods, such as my exploration into my Pypes shorty header install and testing, y'all will hear the real results I have achieved, both good and bad. Y'all will know what to expect when you go shopping, and if the Coast drive shaft does indeed show power gains, I will report that. If not, I will report that as well.

 

So, I ordered a drive shaft from Coast and added their recommended accessories, and I will test them on my own. Whatever the results, I will post here, and y'all can decide for yourselves.

 

I love helping out the little guy when his story is in order and productive. If not, the little guy is toast.

 

 

LuLu, any updates? Installation, problems? Dyno? Vibrations? Clearances?

[LuLu]

LuLu, any updates? Installation, problems? Dyno? Vibrations? Clearances?

Nope. Not a word of advice on any of your questions, 69.

 

My Coast drive shaft is somewhere in the UPS shipping lanes right now, and once it gets here, I have to arrange the install and make a dyno appointment. I'm still not "up to speed" on doing the install myself for medical reasons, but I have decided to expedite this mod through a third party. Once accomplished, the dyno follows. Just need more time, K?

 

I WILL keep all of you updated on this mod, and my results.

 

Thanks for asking, y'all be safe.

[07SGT4578]

[69dejavue]

Nope. Not a word of advice on any of your questions, 69.

 

My Coast drive shaft is somewhere in the UPS shipping lanes right now, and once it gets here, I have to arrange the install and make a dyno appointment. I'm still not "up to speed" on doing the install myself for medical reasons, but I have decided to expedite this mod through a third party. Once accomplished, the dyno follows. Just need more time, K?

 

I WILL keep all of you updated on this mod, and my results.

 

Thanks for asking, y'all be safe.

 

LuLu, wishing you a speedy and full recovery. We look forward to your wise words of experience.

[LuLu]

LuLu, any updates? Installation, problems? Dyno? Vibrations? Clearances?

Update!

 

Sorry for the long post, gents, but there is a lot going on here and I want to get the 411 out to you all.

 

Got up early this AM and stuffed myself behind LuLu's wheel. First drive in a month, and it was great to be reunited with her, though my clutch leg is still rather weak from abdominal surgery.

 

Destination...Simpson Performance, a 120 mile drive from my garage door. Object of the exercise...Install new one-piece drive shaft and adjustable rear upper control arm, test drive and dyno for performance improvements and problem solution. Achievements...Mission accomplished...Almost.

 

Initially, I wanted the Coast Driveline and Gear drive shaft linked earlier ^ there in this thread.

 

However, when I got to Corey's, it turned out to be a very similar appearing product from Lightning Force Performance. WTF?

 

Corey explained that in his extensive experience, the LFP product is more refined than the Coast product. Better QC, and he has had very good experience with LFP products overall. I have trusted Corey's decisions with my cars for over 7 years now and he has never disappointed me. Corey added "I know you, Mac. You're going to put a blower on LuLu someday, why cover this ground again?" I can't say he's wrong, but we'll see?

 

After all the web research I have done, a lighter one-piece aluminum drive shaft is somewhat generic to me, just like UD pulleys. It's simply a formula that works to improve performance, and all the major players are using the same specs and components. Again, "brand loyalty" is getting slippery in our fingers, does it really have to say Steeda, or, Roush? In this case, I don't think so. Corey may be right, you decide?

 

Here's the drive shaft and the pic doesn't do it justice. It's very well made and would look very sweet if you were to polish it before an install. UPS shipping label said it was 20 pounds in it's packaging, and that's approximately 22 pounds less than the OEM two-piece driveshaft Corey took out bare-naked. IMHO, there just has to be some more power to the ground in this mod.

 

http://www.lightningforceperformance.com/l...-gt-p-1085.html

 

Next choice was Corey's as well, an adjustable rear upper control arm from LFP and he selected a very hefty assembly. Again, the pic doesn't do it justice, follow the link at the LFP website?

 

I apologize for not being able to post pics, but Corey decided to do this install on jack stands, not a lift. I later understood why. His lifts were all busy with more important mods, thus, this install is a tad more difficult than described at other drive shaft web sites.

 

You will have to pound on some floor pan stuff with a heavy hammer to fit a 4" OD drive shaft into a 3" OD tunnel, but it's not severe pounding. If LuLu was not on jack stands, this would have been a simple 5 minute task, but with nowhere for Corey to swing a hammer, this added 1/2 hour to the install and required an impact chissle with a blunt edge, as well as time an patience.

 

The removal of the OEM rear upper control arm mounting bracket is hard to reach, on a lift or not. Corey had to loosen the left side fuel tank straps and drop the tank down an inch or so, as well as pulling the rear seat cushion to get to the center (of three) bolts. This added 1/2 an hour to the install, but went smoothly once we discovered the required process.

 

Comment...Having a "lowered" S197 can be a pain and this is one of those times.

 

BTW, the OEM UCA bracket attached to the floor pan is simply stamped steel, rather cheesy and fragile, IMHO. What replaces that from LFP is very durable and adjustable, for those of you who care to play with pinion angles for more power to the wheels.

 

Power to the wheels...This is one area where we had no control over. Midway through our install, the sky opened up and we were visited by one hellacious thunderstorm. Needless to say, 100 percent humidity in the air plays havoc with the MAF and dyno testing and tuning is worthless. Thus, I don't have much to report in actual dyno gains, no proof. In fact, the two dynos pulls we did showed that we lost RWHP by 16, but gained 4 pounds of torque. AFR dipped down really rich, to 12.0. Just one of those scrientific facts we have to deal with, eh? Not a day to test on a dyno, 100 percent humidity confuses the MAF and your test is in the toilet.

 

OTOH...On the drive home, I discovered something I never detected before. Aside from my SOTP feelings, my inside RV mirror has always been blurry and I chalked that up to the reinforced suspension systems of the SGT. Just something you live with, right? Surprisingly, this "blurriness" is gone now, my inside RV mirror is crystal clear and I can read license plates behind me again as I can with my 2008 Mercury GM. So...I suppose there was some mild vibration present, but it's gone now.

 

On another note...My MPG over 120 miles driving up to Simpson Performance was 22.4. My MPG coming home was 25.6. Maybe it's just fuel quality, maybe just "wind at my tail", dunno...But, I believe it's less rotating mass and more efficiency after the tranny. Fewer torque leaks = more power to the wheels, and this mod is worth the time and expense, IMHO.

 

I will get some actual dyno 411 for y'all ASAP, but until then, this is one "winner" mod.

 

Oh....BTW. Got caught "testing" my new drive shaft mod on my way home. Lee County Sheriff's cars surrounded me...Nailed me at 129 MPH in a 55 zone.

 

I ate a lot of crow, but got away clean with a few "test drives" for what may have been the entire Lee County patrol force on duty at this time. Beat every one of those Chargers down on a back road, they have a whole new awareness if the SGT.

 

Y'all be safe, and stay out of Lee County, IL...

[AstroDan]

Update!

On another note...My MPG over 120 miles driving up to Simpson Performance was 22.4. My MPG coming home was 25.6. Maybe it's just fuel quality, maybe just "wind at my tail", dunno...But, I believe it's less rotating mass and more efficiency after the tranny. Fewer torque leaks = more power to the wheels, and this mod is worth the time and expense, IMHO.

 

I will get some actual dyno 411 for y'all ASAP, but until then, this is one "winner" mod.

 

Oh....BTW. Got caught "testing" my new drive shaft mod on my way home. Lee County Sheriff's cars surrounded me...Nailed me at 129 MPH in a 55 zone.

 

I ate a lot of crow, but got away clean with a few "test drives" for what may have been the entire Lee County patrol force on duty at this time. Beat every one of those Chargers down on a back road, they have a whole new awareness if the SGT.

 

Y'all be safe, and stay out of Lee County, IL...

 

Once again, a great write up! Thanks.

A couple points...

25.6mpg while hitting 129mph? Sweet! :happy feet:

You say you beat their Chargers? Details, please?

A mod that is definitely in my near future!

Dan

[MMcGuirk]

Hi,

 

Just installed a Spydershaft from Ron Leonard Racing this morning.

 

I chose this model due to the fact that there is no adapter needed. You replace the rear pinion flange and it bolts right in. My car is lowered with the SGT FRPP "k" springs and there are no clearance issues. I do have a BMR UCA.

 

The whole feel of my car has changed. Much crisper throttle response. I have 35k miles on my car and the stock 2 piece was a clunker. Much improved NVH with the Spydershaft.

 

 

Regards,

 

Michael

[69dejavue]

LuLu, glad it seems to be an improvement. BUT, it sounds like putting a 4" shaft into a 3" opening is like trying to drive a square peg into a round hole. Big hammer and a chisel? That would scare the hell out of me and I would not be able to watch.

 

Question: why isn't anyone making a 3 inch aluminum shaft for the Mustang? There is one company that is experimenting with a 2 piece aluminum shaft and I assume it will be 3" but not confirmed. Sounds like a good pickup of usable HP and torque, not to mention the reduction in NVH.

[68fastback]

LuLu, glad it seems to be an improvement. BUT, it sounds like putting a 4" shaft into a 3" opening is like trying to drive a square peg into a round hole. Big hammer and a chisel? That would scare the hell out of me and I would not be able to watch.

 

Question: why isn't anyone making a 3 inch aluminum shaft for the Mustang? There is one company that is experimenting with a 2 piece aluminum shaft and I assume it will be 3" but not confirmed. Sounds like a good pickup of usable HP and torque, not to mention the reduction in NVH.

 

I think Dynotech makes a 3.5" ...GT500 guys with LTHeaders and aftermarket X-pipe w/ race cats use the 3" for clearance when lowered. I bleieve Evo sells it.

 

<edit:> 3.5" ..see post #37 for linky

 

---

 

Just curious, are most folks installing safety loop with their one piece shafts? It's really a good idea. I saw pics of a one-piece (not a Dynotech) that detonated at speed on a GT500 and it made scrap-metal out of the undercarriage, including pounding the tranny so hard that it broke one mounting point off right off, cracked the bellhousing and more. The front joint failed so clutching it did absolutely no good. Btw, Ford went with the two-piece shaft for safety reasons since a failed rear joint can easily take out the gas tank -- you get the picture. One piece shafts are great but safety loops are highly recommended with one-piece shafts, imho.