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ratnacage

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I traded my 03 Mach 1 for an 06 GT.

 

I rolled in the following mods:

full length headers and cat backs

4.10 gear

lowering springs

underdrive pulley's

CAI

program and dyno tune

hurst short throw shifter

adjustable upper control arms

removal of the restrictor plates in the intake

CTR GT40 replica wheels/tires (www.ctrwheels.com/gunmetal.htm)

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I traded my 03 Mach 1 for an 06 GT.

 

I rolled in the following mods:

full length headers and cat backs

4.10 gear

lowering springs

underdrive pulley's

CAI

program and dyno tune

hurst short throw shifter

adjustable upper control arms

removal of the restrictor plates in the intake

CTR GT40 replica wheels/tires (www.ctrwheels.com/gunmetal.htm)

 

 

Please post pics Rat. I love the GT wheels, I didn't know there were replicas out there. Sure beats 1K per wheel for the factory wheels. Also, what kind of dyno #'s did you get with those mods? Thanks.

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Guest evilchris

Please post pics Rat. I love the GT wheels, I didn't know there were replicas out there. Sure beats 1K per wheel for the factory wheels. Also, what kind of dyno #'s did you get with those mods? Thanks.

I'm guessing he'll make a little over 300 at the wheels with those mods.

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I'm guessing he'll make a little over 300 at the wheels with those mods.

 

 

Our Horse Power guru took my bone-stock car today to begin the modifications. I should have it completed by early next week (hopefully sooner). The only real question is how soon I can get the wheels/tires. I plan to put some steamrollers back there - as wide as I can get away with without it poking out beyond the fenders.

 

Evil, you are correct in that we are expecting about 300 at the wheels. Combined with the gear, I'm hoping to crank out some low 12's at the track at about 110 mph (this assumes I remember how to drive as it's been many years since my last visit to a drag strip).

 

I had planned on painted over-the-top stripes, however, I then realized that the stripes don't add as much HP as actual go-fast parts do :bandance: So the money allocated to stripes was re-allocated!!

 

I'll post pics as soon as I get the car back

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Our Horse Power guru took my bone-stock car today to begin the modifications. I should have it completed by early next week (hopefully sooner). The only real question is how soon I can get the wheels/tires. I plan to put some steamrollers back there - as wide as I can get away with without it poking out beyond the fenders.

 

How wide are you going? I'm getting the same wheels for my new car.

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Rat - do I have to send you a loaded camera? :banghead:

 

 

You and me both ( :banghead: )

 

The car is being tinkered with I think until Tuesday or Wednesday. In the mean time I'm driving a stylish grey F-150 crew cab that the sales manager is "graciously" letting me use until my car is complete.

 

I promise pics the day I get it back!

 

 

How wide are you going? I'm getting the same wheels for my new car.

 

 

You can fit up to 305's on the 10's but the rep told me that 285/40's are the best fit. 255/45's are recommended for the narrower rim. Basically, you can use the exact same tire sizes that the GT500 uses, and it so happens that is what I will be doing.

 

The rep came by today and brought my wheels (10x18 in back, 9x18 in front) - you won't be disapointed - they are awesome looking.

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Guest evilchris

Conga-rats, Rat! Like the others, I'd like to see your mods. Sounds like you're giving your pony a good start.

 

One question: if you're expecting 300 HP at the rear wheels, what do stock engines produce? I've never seen those numbers.

 

 

265 is pretty normal for a stick

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Thanks for the info. I'm curious, what is the cash:horsepower ratio? I mean, how much will the mods you specified cost or what is the net cost of each horsepower?

 

The reason I ask is I was hoping to install the cold air induction with the functional hood scoop from CDC, but I know the horsepower gain is minimal. It's more of an aesthetic mod, really. I just like the look of the shaker scoop popping out of the hood. If it only nets say around 15 horsepower, then I figure each horsepower will cost me around $53.

 

I guess the real question is: how do we reconcile the cost of our mods with the proposed improvement in performance?

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I'm not sure you can. But a good cold air systems seems to be one of the first improvements as many of the others need the added air to make them work. Since the engine is basically and air pump, the more air/fuel you can get in the combustion chamber, the more horsepower you should make. Without the intake improvement, the other mods such as exhaust may not work as well. Air in / horsepower out (kinda).

 

So if you are asking, the CAI is really a good start. As for the Shaker hood, that's an aesthetic item you need to decide upon :cheerleader:

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Thanks for the info. I'm curious, what is the cash:horsepower ratio? I mean, how much will the mods you specified cost or what is the net cost of each horsepower?

 

The reason I ask is I was hoping to install the cold air induction with the functional hood scoop from CDC, but I know the horsepower gain is minimal. It's more of an aesthetic mod, really. I just like the look of the shaker scoop popping out of the hood. If it only nets say around 15 horsepower, then I figure each horsepower will cost me around $53.

 

I guess the real question is: how do we reconcile the cost of our mods with the proposed improvement in performance?

 

 

All the mods not including wheels and tires are about $4100 (including the dyno tune). If you have the time and skills, you can save a chunk of money doing it yourself, so the $/HP ratio can vary significantly depending on your route. Figure just the parts are about $2900.

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That's true enough. I hadn't even considered that variable. I used to have the luxury of having a complete auto service shop at my disposal when I lived in New York. One of my best friends had a speed shop and would let me do all sorts of work to cars I had, in trade for helping him with brake jobs, tranny tear-downs, etc. Now, I don't know ANY mechanics in California, let alone have mechanic friends with shops, so any significant mods I make will no doubt be costly.

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That's true enough. I hadn't even considered that variable. I used to have the luxury of having a complete auto service shop at my disposal when I lived in New York. One of my best friends had a speed shop and would let me do all sorts of work to cars I had, in trade for helping him with brake jobs, tranny tear-downs, etc. Now, I don't know ANY mechanics in California, let alone have mechanic friends with shops, so any significant mods I make will no doubt be costly.

 

 

Back in the "day" when I was single living on base we had an "auto hobby shop" where you could rent a stall with a lift, access to tools, etc. I could have done all the mods myself although I think I'd still leave the ring and pinion to the experts. Now with a wife and two kids and working 50+ hours per week, it's just not worth it. Not to mention when I was in the Navy, if I screwed up the job, it didn't matter if I was without transportation for a while. Now I have to make sure it gets done right the first time, so it's worth the extra $$$ to let someone that does it for a living do the work.

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External factors definitely warrant consideration! I expect to do a lot of window shopping before making any purchases. Things have gotten a lot more complex since my "restoration days." Back then, I did all my shopping in catalogs and swap meets. Now I've got catalogs, speed shops and the Internet, (which is a mixed blessing). Key to successful modding is setting a budget, a time frame and getting organized. Prioritizing is of paramount importance. What comes first? versus What can wait? This hobby sure does require a lot of thought and planning!

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I traded my 03 Mach 1 for an 06 GT.

 

I rolled in the following mods:

full length headers and cat backs

4.10 gear

lowering springs

underdrive pulley's

CAI

program and dyno tune

hurst short throw shifter

adjustable upper control arms

removal of the restrictor plates in the intake

CTR GT40 replica wheels/tires (www.ctrwheels.com/gunmetal.htm)

 

WOW - 0% for 72 months on the Mustang? AWESOME RAT!

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External factors definitely warrant consideration! I expect to do a lot of window shopping before making any purchases. Things have gotten a lot more complex since my "restoration days." Back then, I did all my shopping in catalogs and swap meets. Now I've got catalogs, speed shops and the Internet, (which is a mixed blessing). Key to successful modding is setting a budget, a time frame and getting organized. Prioritizing is of paramount importance. What comes first? versus What can wait? This hobby sure does require a lot of thought and planning!

 

 

Another thought: back then, late 80's/early 90's, modding Mustangs was just becoming a major industry. I like to think I was one of the pioneers (head swelling now), at one point having the fastest Mustang in VA Beach with a Paxton, ported stock heads, and a handful of other mods, I was running low 12's, and shortly thereafter going crazy with TFS heads, SVO block, C6, Vortech R-trim at 16psi, etc, etc, running 10's. Anyway, catalogues and magazines were a virtual snake-oil sales paradise with everyone claiming 15 hp here, 50 hp there with the latest and greatest bolt-on. You would think you could just bolt on a few of these and add up the HP. Not so!

 

I learned the expensive way that finding the right combination of parts takes more than just picking a variety of parts with HP figures attached to them. You really need to do your homework; first is the fork in the road - are you planning on going forced-induction or "all motor," if your going to bolt on those nice new headers, did you consider the rest of the exhaust, and the intake side of the equation - and while you're there, are you injectors big enough? Of course you need bigger injectors, but then is your fuel system up to the task (pump(s), lines, regulator). Now that your making all this big HP, why can't I post the numbers I want (or that were promised in those seductive ads)? Well, don't forget you need wheels and stickier tires, need to set up that suspension to transfer the weight just so - oh, and don't forget about that gear - do I need 3.55, 3.73, 4.10 ???. It's like a crack addiction (not that I would know), the more you do, the more you need to do.

 

For every car out there, there is a unique opinion as to what works and doesn't work, but most importantly, you have to make sure that for whatever combination of parts you're using, they need to work together. If you don't do your homework, you can wind up with a very expensive car who's parts are fighting each other. You may still go fast, but everything needs to compliment each other to realize the full potential.

 

For my example, I first decided that this Mustang will be "all motor." So I'm adding the CAI AND the full exhaust because you really can't do one without the other. The next combo is not so obvious: the gear I selected (4.10) is directly related to my choice to remove the intake restriction plates. Normally these plates accelerate the air at lower RPM's to increase low end torque, however they are a detriment to high end torque. If you just remove the plates you likely won't see much improvement in your ET do to the loss of low-end even though peak HP will be improved. Having a 4.10 gear though will help overcome the loss of low-end and get you into the higher power range more quickly. Of course doing all that necesitates recalibrating the ECU, hence the dyno-tune. You could go with a prepackaged program, but for a few extra $$ get it customized by a good shop - no sense in spending all that money on everything else, then skimping on the key to unleashing it all. I think the parts I've put together will work well together and leave me with a healthy platform for the next stage in mods. Hopefully, when I decide on "Stage Two" I won't have to undo anything in "Stage One."

 

I do kinda break my rules a bit. I'm lowering my car which really works against good ET's as it inhibits weight transfer. Howver it's with things like this where you have to decide if the aesthetic out-weighs the practical. That will be a personal decision for each. Just make sure you understand what you're doing so you're not disappointed by unanticipated side-effects.

 

 

...ok, I'm done preaching....for now....

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You're preaching to the choir, brother! :D

 

I agree completely. A plan of attack is essential. Getting your mods to perform harmoniously, and in fulfillment of your expectations is of the utmost importance!

 

I've got to admit that I'm a little reluctant to install the functional hood scoop. I like the look of it, but are people going to expect my engine to be a monster performer? The mod in of itself is not expected to boost HP by much; it's more for looks. In the end, people are going to think what they're going to think. I certainly won't be making any unrealistic claims about how much better my car is than someone else's. I wouldn't want to misrepresent it, because it would be readily apparent that I was spouting BS. I'm no poser; I just want the car to look and sound a certain way. Wish me luck!

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Another thought: back then, late 80's/early 90's, modding Mustangs was just becoming a major industry. I like to think I was one of the pioneers (head swelling now), at one point having the fastest Mustang in VA Beach with a Paxton, ported stock heads, and a handful of other mods, I was running low 12's, and shortly thereafter going crazy with TFS heads, SVO block, C6, Vortech R-trim at 16psi, etc, etc, running 10's. Anyway, catalogues and magazines were a virtual snake-oil sales paradise with everyone claiming 15 hp here, 50 hp there with the latest and greatest bolt-on. You would think you could just bolt on a few of these and add up the HP. Not so!

 

I learned the expensive way that finding the right combination of parts takes more than just picking a variety of parts with HP figures attached to them. You really need to do your homework; first is the fork in the road - are you planning on going forced-induction or "all motor," if your going to bolt on those nice new headers, did you consider the rest of the exhaust, and the intake side of the equation - and while you're there, are you injectors big enough? Of course you need bigger injectors, but then is your fuel system up to the task (pump(s), lines, regulator). Now that your making all this big HP, why can't I post the numbers I want (or that were promised in those seductive ads)? Well, don't forget you need wheels and stickier tires, need to set up that suspension to transfer the weight just so - oh, and don't forget about that gear - do I need 3.55, 3.73, 4.10 ???. It's like a crack addiction (not that I would know), the more you do, the more you need to do.

 

For every car out there, there is a unique opinion as to what works and doesn't work, but most importantly, you have to make sure that for whatever combination of parts you're using, they need to work together. If you don't do your homework, you can wind up with a very expensive car who's parts are fighting each other. You may still go fast, but everything needs to compliment each other to realize the full potential.

 

For my example, I first decided that this Mustang will be "all motor." So I'm adding the CAI AND the full exhaust because you really can't do one without the other. The next combo is not so obvious: the gear I selected (4.10) is directly related to my choice to remove the intake restriction plates. Normally these plates accelerate the air at lower RPM's to increase low end torque, however they are a detriment to high end torque. If you just remove the plates you likely won't see much improvement in your ET do to the loss of low-end even though peak HP will be improved. Having a 4.10 gear though will help overcome the loss of low-end and get you into the higher power range more quickly. Of course doing all that necesitates recalibrating the ECU, hence the dyno-tune. You could go with a prepackaged program, but for a few extra $$ get it customized by a good shop - no sense in spending all that money on everything else, then skimping on the key to unleashing it all. I think the parts I've put together will work well together and leave me with a healthy platform for the next stage in mods. Hopefully, when I decide on "Stage Two" I won't have to undo anything in "Stage One."

 

I do kinda break my rules a bit. I'm lowering my car which really works against good ET's as it inhibits weight transfer. Howver it's with things like this where you have to decide if the aesthetic out-weighs the practical. That will be a personal decision for each. Just make sure you understand what you're doing so you're not disappointed by unanticipated side-effects.

...ok, I'm done preaching....for now....

 

 

Hey rat, here are some pics to tide you over, if you haven't seen these yet. They are one of John's customers. I bought mine earlier today...pics to follow!

post-6298-1157486150_thumb.jpg

post-6298-1157486173_thumb.jpg

post-6298-1157486150_thumb.jpg

post-6298-1157486173_thumb.jpg

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