ChipBeck Posted April 18, 2008 Report Share Posted April 18, 2008 Gentlemen, As I promised yesterday in the "hood scoop saga continues" thread, I am posting today photos of the repair I made on my hood scoop. This work was not covered under my factory warranty nor did I ask or expect it to be. Some brief background. I am a Shelby fanatic and I consider the Shelby GT to be the purest Shelby Mustang since the last 1966 GT350 was built. My collector cars are all kept in immaculate condition including a Ford GT, and an aluminum bodied Cobra. I absolutely love my Shelby GT but the soft plastic hood scoop was driving me nuts. The original was horribly warped and the replacement sent to me by Shelby was slightly dished out in the rear before I even tried to put it on the car. I am a former test pilot for a composite propeller manufacturer as well as a composite aircraft builder. I have worked as the Airshow demonstration pilot for the Stoddard-Hamilton Aircraft Company and Phoenix Composites in Mesa, Arizona and consider myself to be very well-versed in composite materials and their suitable uses. In my opinion, there is no way to fix the factory Shelby GT hood scoop without changing the material it is made out of. The scoop, as supplied by Shelby, is injection molded using a plastic that is somewhat softer than a Tupperware bowl. Look at the two enclosed photos. In the first, my technician is holding the factory scoop by the corner and it bends under its own weight! When left in direct sunlight it heats up and gets incredibly soft. In the second photo you can see how much the scoop bends when twisted with a very slight amount of force. The latest Shelby fix is to supply this scoop with a black foam rubber insert that is intended to support the scoop and keep it from collapsing or warping when it gets hot. Attaching such soft plastic with rivets without damaging that soft plastic or the paint applied to it is almost impossible. The soft plastic in that scoop also expands and contracts a great deal with changes in temperature. When it contracts it pulls the vinyl stripes pinched between it and the aluminum hood inward and when it expands it pushes those stripes outward causing them to bunch up around the edges of the scoop. Here in Arizona I have examined over a dozen Shelby GTs and almost all of them have warped scoops, damage to the paint and/or the scoop itself from the riveted installation, and damage to the stripes at the edges of the scoop from expansion and contraction. Using a different scoop or removing it entirely destroys the originality of the car and that is unacceptable to me. So utilizing the expertise I have available I changed the material that my scoop is made out of, and I changed the way it is attached to the hood. Let me make it clear right off the bat that I am not manufacturing duplicate Shelby parts nor do I have any intention of doing so. This is a repair of a defective part on my car. Carroll Shelby has been a good friend to me and the entire Ford GT community and the rights to manufacture and all profits from parts that they design are rightfully the property of Mr. Shelby's company. The scoop I have made differs in materials, construction method, interior and exterior shape, and method of attachment. It is strong enough to stand on in one's bare feet, requires no internal bracing and therefore allows one to make the scoop functional, and it is constructed of aviation grade vinyl-ester impregnated fiberglass. It is attached to the hood using Rivit-Nuts and chrome plated hex head dome top screws which allow the scoop to be removed and reinstalled any time in just a few minutes. These rivet nuts also allow me to screw the scoop down with just enough pressure to hold it securely but not so much pressure as to damage the hood or the scoop. This of course, would not be possible using standard rivets. The original hood scoop is painted silver and the white stripe in the middle is a tape stripe. This allows Shelby to install the scoop on the car and then line up the stripe on top of the scoop with the striping on the car itself. The stripes on the hood of my Shelby GT are not aligned with the center of the hood and are offset about one third of an inch to the right. My replacement hood scoop as you can see from these photos is lined up perfectly in the center of the hood but is not lined up perfectly in the center of the stripes. So I am going to remove the stripes from the hood of my car and reinstall new ones that are lined up properly. That done, I will have the perfect Shelby GT Mustang. The first two photos show how soft and pliable the original hood scoop is. Photo number three shows my original hood scoop on the right and the one I had built out of fiberglass on the left. Photo number four is a close-up of an installed Rivit-Nut and the chrome plated hex head screw that I use to attach my new fiberglass scoop. Photo number five is my hood with all rivet nuts installed in the exact same location as the dummy screws were on the original scoop. Photo number six shows the bottom of my hood with the insulation removed so you can see the rivet nuts protruding slightly through the bottom of the hood. These rivit nuts will be hidden completely when the insulation is reinstalled. Photo number seven shows the unpainted-primered scoop being bolted to the hood so I could take some photos. Photo number eight shows the scoop fully bolted down to my hood. Note how the stripes are not perfectly centered on the hood. I will be removing and replacing my stripes so that they will be properly centered. Photo number nine shows the scoop from the side. No waves, no dips, no imperfections!! This scoop is made out of the exact same material as my aircraft that is sitting in the photos background. Photo number 10 shows my original hood scoop sitting on the hood next to my new fiberglass scoop installed. Photo number 11 shows both scoops from the front. The last photo I am including is a photo of the cowling of my Glasair III aircraft. The engine cylinder heads are less than an inch from the vinylester resin fiberglass underneath the word "Phoenix". That engine cowling is over 10 years old and that fiberglass has been subjected to engine heat in excess of 400 degrees for long periods of time followed by cooling to below freezing during wintertime. As you can see it is still perfect after a decade of extreme heat cycles, 400 mph air speeds, and loads in excess of eight G's. In about a week I will paint the silver and white on my hood scoop and I will post final photos at that time. All the best. Chip Beck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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