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ENGINE BREAK IN FOR NEW SHELBY


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I am totally stoked to tell you I had a GT-H convertible delivered to me on the 11th of this month. I can't believe I waited so long to get a Shelby. It had 251 miles on it when it arrived. I need some advice about whether I should take it easy, like in the "old days" we were told to stay under 3000RPM for the first few thousand miles or whether I can get on it. Some guys I talk to say drive it any way you want. I plan on keeping it for quite a while. Mods will come but I want to enjoy the car as is for now. Thanks for your advice!

I registered it on line at the Shelby site today.

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I am totally stoked to tell you I had a GT-H convertible delivered to me on the 11th of this month. I can't believe I waited so long to get a Shelby. It had 251 miles on it when it arrived. I need some advice about whether I should take it easy, like in the "old days" we were told to stay under 3000RPM for the first few thousand miles or whether I can get on it. Some guys I talk to say drive it any way you want. I plan on keeping it for quite a while. Mods will come but I want to enjoy the car as is for now. Thanks for your advice!

I registered it on line at the Shelby site today.

Congrats That is a low mile GT-H as to breaking her in I would drive it reasonable & the odd time standing on her like you stole her. Then once you got a 500 or 600 hundred miles change tho filter & oil. GOOD LUCk & enjoy

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Modular engines do not need to be "broken in". Drive it like you stole it, today.

 

There are many technical reasons for my advice, all boring to the average driver.

 

My last modular build was a 4V only 10 minutes old when it put out 520 RWHP/500 RWTQ on a chassis dyno. It's still alive today, and on-duty as a Honolulu (LuLu, get it?) Police Car.

 

The 3V modular is prolly the finest modular engine Ford ever created. Just keep the EOTs cool, respect the 6200 RPM red-line and 10 PSI of boost, and it will live a very long life.

 

Congrats on your GT-H purchase.

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OK this is how i would do it.

1) rev the car to 6250 RPMS.

2) Let the clutch fly

3) wait until the rev limiter goes off

4) keep it pegged for 10 more seconds

5) Then take it to the Ford garage and tell them you listened to people on the Shelby forum that's why the engine is blown :hysterical::hysterical::hysterical:

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OK this is how i would do it.

1) rev the car to 6250 RPMS.

2) Let the clutch fly

3) wait until the rev limiter goes off

4) keep it pegged for 10 more seconds

5) Then take it to the Ford garage and tell them you listened to people on the Shelby forum that's why the engine is blown :hysterical::hysterical::hysterical:

Your point here would be...

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OK this is how i would do it.

1) rev the car to 6250 RPMS.

2) Let the clutch fly

3) wait until the rev limiter goes off

4) keep it pegged for 10 more seconds

5) Then take it to the Ford garage and tell them you listened to people on the Shelby forum that's why the engine is blown :hysterical::hysterical::hysterical:

 

 

Swedeman, you are a sick puppy. No offense intended. Thanks for the sage advice!

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I am totally stoked to tell you I had a GT-H convertible delivered to me on the 11th of this month. I can't believe I waited so long to get a Shelby. It had 251 miles on it when it arrived. I need some advice about whether I should take it easy, like in the "old days" we were told to stay under 3000RPM for the first few thousand miles or whether I can get on it. Some guys I talk to say drive it any way you want. I plan on keeping it for quite a while. Mods will come but I want to enjoy the car as is for now. Thanks for your advice!

I registered it on line at the Shelby site today.

 

 

Congrats cal66 but...you do realize that without pics we don't believe a word of it :hysterical: We love pictures

 

Jim

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Modular engines do not need to be "broken in". Drive it like you stole it, today.

 

There are many technical reasons for my advice, all boring to the average driver.

 

My last modular build was a 4V only 10 minutes old when it put out 520 RWHP/500 RWTQ on a chassis dyno. It's still alive today, and on-duty as a Honolulu (LuLu, get it?) Police Car.

 

The 3V modular is prolly the finest modular engine Ford ever created. Just keep the EOTs cool, respect the 6200 RPM red-line and 10 PSI of boost, and it will live a very long life.

 

Congrats on your GT-H purchase.

 

Hey LULU, what is an EOT? Thanks!

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Hey LULU, what is an EOT? Thanks!

Engine Oil Temp. A critical threshold to monitor.

 

There isn't an acronym for operating temp, but between the EOT and ECT (engine coolant temp), you can determine overheating.

 

There are nine pages of acronyms and definitions from Ford in the Helms directory, maybe someday I'll find the time to type them up and post them here for y'all.

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OK this is how i would do it.

1) rev the car to 6250 RPMS.

2) Let the clutch fly

3) wait until the rev limiter goes off

4) keep it pegged for 10 more seconds

5) Then take it to the Ford garage and tell them you listened to people on the Shelby forum that's why the engine is blown :hysterical::hysterical::hysterical:

 

:hysterical2: I thought dat was purdy funny....

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Congrats cal66 but...you do realize that without pics we don't believe a word of it :hysterical: We love pictures

 

Jim

 

 

I've got pictures of the semi, car being unloaded etc but don't know how to get them loaded into the forum. Is there a thread anywhere to walk me through it?

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Engine Oil Temp. A critical threshold to monitor.

 

There isn't an acronym for operating temp, but between the EOT and ECT (engine coolant temp), you can determine overheating.

 

There are nine pages of acronyms and definitions from Ford in the Helms directory, maybe someday I'll find the time to type them up and post them here for y'all.

 

 

 

 

I need some help with EOT. Should I rely on the standard oil temp gauge? Where is the normal operating temp with a standard gauge, with the needle straight up or at the 3/4 level? Thanks.

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