JoeRollar Posted April 13, 2008 Report Share Posted April 13, 2008 Hey Everyone, In the past i have been partial to K&N filter kits, and was wondering how our FRPP intake and filter stand up to a K&N? And does anyone know if K&N are still the top dogs in the air filter industry? Thanks, Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilmor Posted April 13, 2008 Report Share Posted April 13, 2008 I've had both, and I can't see any difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LuLu Posted April 13, 2008 Report Share Posted April 13, 2008 Both are equals in low restriction air flow. If there is any difference between a K&N element and the FRP, once you discover that from extensive lab work, you'll also discover that it wasn't worth the time/money invested in testing. BTW, this portion of the "air-in" system is called "induction". The "intake" is another portion, that black plastic tubular thingy parked under your strut tower brace after the throttle body. Personally, I hesitate to call it a "cold air induction" system, because there isn't any real cold air coming in. But most folks will call it a "CAI" to differentiate between the aftermarket mod and the stock factory system. What ever you want to call it, it's not the intake manifold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stump_breaker Posted April 13, 2008 Report Share Posted April 13, 2008 Hey Everyone, In the past i have been partial to K&N filter kits, and was wondering how our FRPP intake and filter stand up to a K&N? And does anyone know if K&N are still the top dogs in the air filter industry? Thanks, Joe Cotton gauze is cotton gauze. If you're looking for performance increase just upgrade your intake tube for far less money. Some have claimed 7-10 hp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LuLu Posted April 13, 2008 Report Share Posted April 13, 2008 Cotton gauze is cotton gauze. If you're looking for performance increase just upgrade your intake tube for far less money. Some have claimed 7-10 hp. +1, great advice. The factory bellows (aka "zip tube") is a bumpy ride for the air flow after the MAF. Smooth out this turbulence, and you'll gain some low end grunt. 7-10 HP? Well, I'm not that bold, but improving air flow by reducing turbulence is always good. Likewise, cooler IATs and cooler EOTs will produce more power in the lower RPMs. Try a 180 degree thermostat (OEM is 197 degrees) and a cooler spark plug, such as a Denso (IT-20 for N/A engines, and IT-22 for blower cars) to bring down the EOT. Improved combustion, and more power from inconsistent pump gas quality. Moreover, this stat change is very important for intrcooled blower cars. The intercooler robs some fresh cold air from the radiator, and you need to compensate by opening the stat earlier in the game. Add all this together, now I think you can expect 10+ RWHP with a careful re-tune by a pro. Off-the-shelf boxed tunes won't take advantage of these tweaks. Happy motoring, gents. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.