Vogon Posted September 7, 2008 Report Share Posted September 7, 2008 How long did you stop between 25 mi runs? 15 or 20 minutes. My brother and I drooled on the car while we waited. I think the 4th run was 70 miles back to Shelby, because of a wheel vibration and tire pressure monitor fault. After that, we just drove as usual. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest markham51 Posted September 7, 2008 Report Share Posted September 7, 2008 15 or 20 minutes. My brother and I drooled on the car while we waited. I think the 4th run was 70 miles back to Shelby, because of a wheel vibration and tire pressure monitor fault. After that, we just drove as usual. Thx much! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lrock Posted September 11, 2008 Report Share Posted September 11, 2008 Any thoughts on waxing or putting a sealer/protectant on the hood? Should you wait for the paint to fully cure before applying? Also, would you wax/seal over the stripes? Lrock 07 'vert, waiting to send it in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aobrien Posted September 11, 2008 Report Share Posted September 11, 2008 I did as they suggested, while driving back to Calgary. Of course, I had to go back to SAI first, but at least their protocol was followed. I picked up the car with 5,000 km (3,000 mi) on it, now it has 9,000 km (5,500 mi). No problems so far... Does it help? Well, it doesn't seem to have hurt... Not bad 4,000 km since you picked it up. Did you get your SS back yet? Al Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vogon Posted September 19, 2008 Report Share Posted September 19, 2008 Not bad 4,000 km since you picked it up. Did you get your SS back yet? Al Nope, still waiting... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tob Posted December 13, 2008 Report Share Posted December 13, 2008 A bit of tech on ring and pinion break in... In most stock vehicles with stock tires there is seldom a risk of a burned gear set. For those of us who modify and use our trucks, there many situations that can contribute to burned gear syndrome. Motorhomes, towing, tall tires, and high numeric gear ratios (4.56 & up) can all generate a lot of heat and cause the gear oil to break down. The greatest damage to a new gear set results when it has been run for ten minutes or more during the first 500 miles and the oil is very hot. Any heavy use or overloading while the oil is extremely hot will cause it to break down and allow irreversible damage to the ring & pinion. In order to make them run cooler and quieter, new gears are lapped at the factory. However, they are not lapped under the same pressures that driving creates. The loads generated while driving, force any microscopic high spots on the gear teeth back into the surface of the metal. This is called "work hardening". Work hardening is similar to forging in the way that it compresses the metal molecules into a very compact and hard formation. This can only be accomplished if the metal surfaces are lubricated and the gear temperature stays cool enough that the molecular structure does not change. If the temperature of the metal gets hot enough to change the molecular structure, it will soften the surface instead of hardening it. This may seen like a balancing act but it all happens easily & passively as long as the oil keeps the gear cool while it is breaking in. Some of the synthetic oils on the market today can help a gear set live longer. I’ve had great success with Red Line ®, Torco ®, and Richmond Gear ® synthetic gear oils. These oils will continue to lubricate at temperatures where many crude oils break down. Even with synthetic oils, I still recommend the following procedure for breaking in a new gear set: After driving the first 15 to 20 miles it is best to stop and let the differential cool before proceeding. Keep the vehicle at speeds below 60 mph for the first 100 miles. I also recommend putting at least 500 miles on the new gear set before heavy use or towing. During the first 45 miles of towing it helps to go about 15 miles at a time before stopping to let the differential cool for 15 minutes before continuing. This is necessary because not all of the gear tooth is making contact until it is heavily loaded. When towing, the teeth flex to contact completely, and cause the previously unloaded portion of the teeth to touch and work harden. All of this may seem like paranoia, but it is very easy to damage the ring & pinion by overloading before the teeth are broken in. If you take it easy on a new ring & pinion and keep it full of high quality oil, it should last a lot longer. With regards to limited slip additives, I have found that using too much additive can lead to premature gear wear. Use just enough to keep the limited slip from chattering but not more than 4 oz for every 2 qts of oil. It is a good idea to change the gear oil after the first 500 miles in order to remove any metal particles or phosphorus coating that has come from the new gear set. This is cheap insurance and a good time to discover any problems before they grow to disastrous proportions. From here... http://www.4x4now.com/gt0999.htm Much the same, from Richmond Gear... A new ring and pinion installation, especially a high numeric ratio with new bearings, can cause an excessive heat buildup in the rear end and cause softening of the gear teeth and bearings if a break in is not performed.Street vehicles should be driven at normal street driving speed for approximately 10 miles, then stop and let cool for 30 minutes. Do this 2 to 3 times. Towing vehicles need approximately 200-300 miles of normal street driving before being used for towing. On circle track race cars make approximately 6 to 8 laps at slow speed, then let cool for 30 minutes. Make 6 to 8 more laps at slow speed, then 2 to 3 laps at full speed, the let cool again for 30 minutes. Drag cars need only an initial run-in since they are driven short distances and heat is not normally a problem with proper lube and backlash allowance. NOTE: If after the above break in is performed, overheating of the rear end is suspected, repeat the final portion of the break in procedures. From here... http://www.richmondgear.com/01instructions.html Tob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KiefferGT500 Posted January 6, 2009 Report Share Posted January 6, 2009 "6. Headers and exhaust mods. IF the vehicle comes in with headers installed--we will not install the super charger on the vehicle. It will not pass CARB and the tune we have does NOT comply with CARB. There is a real good chance we may not be able to do the build. If you want the package done, the STOCK manifolds need to be installed prior to the vehicle arriving here." Does this apply to the FRPP headers as well? Thanks, Kieffer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orangeone Posted January 17, 2009 Report Share Posted January 17, 2009 What if I have different pulley's on the car? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cccorr Posted February 21, 2009 Report Share Posted February 21, 2009 shipping today, any other dos or donts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoneDoc Posted April 25, 2009 Report Share Posted April 25, 2009 This thread was helpful for me as I dropped mine off yesterday for SS package. One thing to add: if you have removed the prop rod and installed hood struts like I had (STEEDA).... these cannot be used on the supersnake hood (apparently warps the hood)..... so if you are taking in for SS be sure to put the prop rod back on the car. Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoneDoc Posted May 10, 2009 Report Share Posted May 10, 2009 another thing: if you have an aftermarket CAI, remember to send the grommets from under your stock airbox.... Bud tells me they use these to mount the CAI for the SS. There are 2 rubber grommets that are used to dampen vibration to the airbox at the base. Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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