UNDERCARRIAGE

[EUSMCBOB]

WHEN I LOOK UNDER MY 2008 AT THE REAR LOOKING FOWARD ABOUT HALF OF THE WAY UP THERE IS A JUNTURE BOX THAT HAS 2 CABLES GOING INTO IT AND 1 GOING OUT OF IT TOWARDS THE FRONT.

 

ANYBODY KNOW WHAT THIS IS AND IT LOOKS LIKE THE JUNCTURE BOX IS OPEN--THE SIDE FACING THE PASSENGERS SIDE.

 

I WILL GET A PICTURE. I JUST WONDER IF THERE IS A COVER MISSING OR IF THAT IS THE WAY IT'S SUPPOSSED TO BE.

 

IF MY BROTHER JEFF IN MILWAUKEE IS READING THIS CALL ME AND LET ME KNOW.

 

BOBH

[Snoopy]

Are you talking about under where the spare tire pan is located?

[6-Speed]

Are you talking about under where the spare tire pan is located?

I believe BOBH is describing the box on the lower part of this picture (Credit for the photo goes to Grabber). I had recalled a box with some cables coming out of it near the drive shaft. I can see that it is an open box with no cover.

[SkyPilot]

Emergency brake where it splits from the cable from the handle to two cables-one for each wheel.

[BlackSnake243]

I would have to agree with skypilot, until i saw the pic. The emergency brake cables aren't usually that thick. So I am stumped as well

[sharabi]

Look at post 18 from grabber thread...no cover to the box ..i do not know what are those cables for.

 

http://forum.teamshelby.com/forums/index.p...c=25332&hl=

[EUSMCBOB]

I believe BOBH is describing the box on the lower part of this picture (Credit for the photo goes to Grabber). I had recalled a box with some cables coming out of it near the drive shaft. I can see that it is an open box with no cover.

 

YES---THAT IS THE BOX. I THOUGHT EMERGENCY BRAKE BUT I'M NOT SURE AND I STILL FEEL LIKE I'M MISSING A COVER FOR THE BOX.

 

BOBH

[68fastback]

I thing it's emergency brake too. You can see in Grabber's pics that it splits at that box and runs in front of each lobe of the saddle gas-tank and then under each LCA and to the axle. Seems like it has to be e-brake

[Airborne4162]

YES---THAT IS THE BOX. I THOUGHT EMERGENCY BRAKE BUT I'M NOT SURE AND I STILL FEEL LIKE I'M MISSING A COVER FOR THE BOX.

 

BOBH

HI BOBH, IN ANSWER TO YOUR QUESTION: IT IS NOT A BOX, IT IS A BRACKET WHICH HOUSES ALL THREE EMERGENCY BRAKE CABLES. PAGE 206-05-1 "PARKING BRAKE AND ACTUATION" IN THE MUSTANG SERVICE MANUAL SHOWS A PERFECT DRAWING (NO. N0012388) OF WHAT IS PICTURED ON THIS THREAD. YOUR SHELBY SHOULD HAVE ONE CABLE ON THE FAR END OF THE "BOX LOOKING THING", CLOSEST TO THE ENGINE AND TWO CABLES AT THE BACK, OF THAT SAME "BOX" CLOSEST TO THE DRIVE AXLE. THE MIDDLE, WILL HAVE A RECTANGULAR PIECE TYING THE TWO ENDS TOGETHER WHICH LOOKS LIKE A TUNING FORK WHEN IT'S ALL SAID AND DONE. THE PIECE IN THE MIDDLE JOINING ALL THREE CABLES IS CALLED THE EQUALIZER. THIS IS WHERE THE MECHANIC WOULD MAKE ADJUSTMENTS TO BALANCE OUT THE PARKING BRAKE SYSTEM AT THE REAR WHEELS. THE "AKA. BOX" IS REALLY TWO SEPARATE BRACKETS JOINED TOGETHER FOR STRENGTH. THIS AKA. "BOX" SET UP IS EASIER TO INSTALL ON THE CAR THAN TWO INDIVIDUAL BRACKETS WELDED TO THE FRAME SOMEWHERE. IT WOULD HAVE BEEN NICE TO SEE A COVER OVER THE OPEN CABLES PREVENTING CORROSION BUT THE FORD SERVICE MANUAL DOES NOT SHOW A COVER. I'VE ALSO SEEN THIS OPENING USED BY FIREFIGHTER AS A CUTTING POINT ON ROLLED VEHICLES TO RESTORE WHEEL ROTATION AFTER LOCK UP FOLLOWING AN ACCIDENT. ONCE ON ALL FOURS TIRES ARE ON THE GROUND, THE CAR CAN BE TOWED.

 

AIRBORNE

[EUSMCBOB]

HI BOBH, IN ANSWER TO YOUR QUESTION: IT IS NOT A BOX, IT IS A BRACKET WHICH HOUSES ALL THREE EMERGENCY BRAKE CABLES. PAGE 206-05-1 "PARKING BRAKE AND ACTUATION" IN THE MUSTANG SERVICE MANUAL SHOWS A PERFECT DRAWING (NO. N0012388) OF WHAT IS PICTURED ON THIS THREAD. YOUR SHELBY SHOULD HAVE ONE CABLE ON THE FAR END OF THE "BOX LOOKING THING", CLOSEST TO THE ENGINE AND TWO CABLES AT THE BACK, OF THAT SAME "BOX" CLOSEST TO THE DRIVE AXLE. THE MIDDLE, WILL HAVE A RECTANGULAR PIECE TYING THE TWO ENDS TOGETHER WHICH LOOKS LIKE A TUNING FORK WHEN IT'S ALL SAID AND DONE. THE PIECE IN THE MIDDLE JOINING ALL THREE CABLES IS CALLED THE EQUALIZER. THIS IS WHERE THE MECHANIC WOULD MAKE ADJUSTMENTS TO BALANCE OUT THE PARKING BRAKE SYSTEM AT THE REAR WHEELS. THE "AKA. BOX" IS REALLY TWO SEPARATE BRACKETS JOINED TOGETHER FOR STRENGTH. THIS AKA. "BOX" SET UP IS EASIER TO INSTALL ON THE CAR THAN TWO INDIVIDUAL BRACKETS WELDED TO THE FRAME SOMEWHERE. IT WOULD HAVE BEEN NICE TO SEE A COVER OVER THE OPEN CABLES PREVENTING CORROSION BUT THE FORD SERVICE MANUAL DOES NOT SHOW A COVER. I'VE ALSO SEEN THIS OPENING USED BY FIREFIGHTER AS A CUTTING POINT ON ROLLED VEHICLES TO RESTORE WHEEL ROTATION AFTER LOCK UP FOLLOWING AN ACCIDENT. ONCE ON ALL FOURS TIRES ARE ON THE GROUND, THE CAR CAN BE TOWED.

 

AIRBORNE

 

THANKS AIRBORNE--THATS A LOT OF INFORMATION.

 

APPRECIATE IT!

 

BOBH

[BADBOY500]

HI BOBH, IN ANSWER TO YOUR QUESTION: IT IS NOT A BOX, IT IS A BRACKET WHICH HOUSES ALL THREE EMERGENCY BRAKE CABLES. PAGE 206-05-1 "PARKING BRAKE AND ACTUATION" IN THE MUSTANG SERVICE MANUAL SHOWS A PERFECT DRAWING (NO. N0012388) OF WHAT IS PICTURED ON THIS THREAD. YOUR SHELBY SHOULD HAVE ONE CABLE ON THE FAR END OF THE "BOX LOOKING THING", CLOSEST TO THE ENGINE AND TWO CABLES AT THE BACK, OF THAT SAME "BOX" CLOSEST TO THE DRIVE AXLE. THE MIDDLE, WILL HAVE A RECTANGULAR PIECE TYING THE TWO ENDS TOGETHER WHICH LOOKS LIKE A TUNING FORK WHEN IT'S ALL SAID AND DONE. THE PIECE IN THE MIDDLE JOINING ALL THREE CABLES IS CALLED THE EQUALIZER. THIS IS WHERE THE MECHANIC WOULD MAKE ADJUSTMENTS TO BALANCE OUT THE PARKING BRAKE SYSTEM AT THE REAR WHEELS. THE "AKA. BOX" IS REALLY TWO SEPARATE BRACKETS JOINED TOGETHER FOR STRENGTH. THIS AKA. "BOX" SET UP IS EASIER TO INSTALL ON THE CAR THAN TWO INDIVIDUAL BRACKETS WELDED TO THE FRAME SOMEWHERE. IT WOULD HAVE BEEN NICE TO SEE A COVER OVER THE OPEN CABLES PREVENTING CORROSION BUT THE FORD SERVICE MANUAL DOES NOT SHOW A COVER. I'VE ALSO SEEN THIS OPENING USED BY FIREFIGHTER AS A CUTTING POINT ON ROLLED VEHICLES TO RESTORE WHEEL ROTATION AFTER LOCK UP FOLLOWING AN ACCIDENT. ONCE ON ALL FOURS TIRES ARE ON THE GROUND, THE CAR CAN BE TOWED.

 

AIRBORNE

Off topic but can you shed some light on the ENG tick???????

 

Thanks.

Dave.

[Airborne4162]

Off topic but can you shed some light on the ENG tick???????

 

Thanks.

Dave.

Love to Dave, can you narrow down the "tick" and where it's coming from? If I type in the search block "tick" it will take a long time to pin-point. I too have a ticking noise under my valve cover from all of the valve train noise, which is normal. Especially when using the FULL (not premium) SYNTHETIC OIL by Motorcraft. 32 valve jumping up and down at close to 200 lbs of force will make noise. You also have actuators (relays) opening and closing at different points to cool the engine down, like the electric fans, electric water pump for the supercharger, and a whole lot of emission related components. One thing you can do (should do) is make sure you check your oil level and fully reinsert the dip stick when done or you'll get an engine check light. This beast takes in a lot of oil, close to 6 and a half bottles and due to it's thinner properties it gets everywhere under pressurize which is highly efficient at high RPMs, but noisier at lower RPMs. Listen closely and drop me a note.

 

Airborne

[BADBOY500]

Love to Dave, can you narrow down the "tick" and where it's coming from? If I type in the search block "tick" it will take a long time to pin-point. I too have a ticking noise under my valve cover from all of the valve train noise, which is normal. Especially when using the FULL (not premium) SYNTHETIC OIL by Motorcraft. 32 valve jumping up and down at close to 200 lbs of force will make noise. You also have actuators (relays) opening and closing at different points to cool the engine down, like the electric fans, electric water pump for the supercharger, and a whole lot of emission related components. One thing you can do (should do) is make sure you check your oil level and fully reinsert the dip stick when done or you'll get an engine check light. This beast takes in a lot of oil, close to 6 and a half bottles and due to it's thinner properties it gets everywhere under pressurize which is highly efficient at high RPMs, but noisier at lower RPMs. Listen closely and drop me a note.

 

Airborne

 

Thank you!!! There is a thread "ENG tick" on the Bord with more info as to what and were the noise is at..This is a one side [Dr] rear of the bank and is a rhythmic RPM followed noise and is not present when cold or most normal driving...after some hard pulls [hot]it gets more pronounce...I think [if we have them]valve lash adjusters???Also seams like just the last 1 or2 rear Dr side cil.....the pass side does not have this noise.

If you could read that thread, I and others would like your input.

 

Thank you for your time, for the dealership thinks we are just to anal and Ford keeps telling us to bring it back in.

Dave.

[Airborne4162]

Thank you!!! There is a thread "ENG tick" on the Bord with more info as to what and were the noise is at..This is a one side [Dr] rear of the bank and is a rhythmic RPM followed noise and is not present when cold or most normal driving...after some hard pulls [hot]it gets more pronounce...I think [if we have them]valve lash adjusters???Also seams like just the last 1 or2 rear Dr side cil.....the pass side does not have this noise.

If you could read that thread, I and others would like your input.

 

Thank you for your time, for the dealership thinks we are just to anal and Ford keeps telling us to bring it back in.

Dave.

This is alittle premature, but after reviewing the thread and formulating a common probable cause, I've consulted the Service Manual as follows:

 

Valve Train Analysis — Engine Running, Valve Tappet

 

Valve tappet noise can be caused by any of the following:

 

 

• Excessive valve tappet gap (collapsed)

• Incorrectly functioning valve tappet

• Air in lubrication system

• Excessive valve guide wear

• Low oil pressure

 

 

1. Excessive collapsed valve tappet gap can be caused by loose rocker arm seat bolts/nuts, incorrect initial adjustment or wear of valve tappet face, or worn roller valve tappets, push rod, rocker arm, rocker arm seat or valve tip. With valve tappet collapsed, check gap between the valve tip and the rocker arm to determine if any other valve train parts are damaged, worn or out of adjustment.

 

2. An incorrectly functioning valve tappet can be sticking, caused by contaminants or varnish inside the tappet. The tappet can have a check valve that is not functioning correctly, which can be caused by an obstruction, such as dirt or chips that prevent the check valve from closing, or a broken check valve spring. A tappet with a leakdown time out of specification can cause tappet noise. If no other cause for noisy valve tappets can be found, the leakdown rate should be checked and new valve tappets installed if found to be out of specification.

 

3. Assembled valve tappets can be tested with Hydraulic Lash Adjuster Leakdown Tester to check the leakdown rate. The leakdown rate specification is the time in seconds for the plunger to move a specified distance while under a 22.7 kg (50 lb) load.

 

4. Air bubbles in the lubrication system will prevent the valve tappet from supporting the valve spring load. This can be caused by too high or too low an oil level in the oil pan or by air being drawn into the system through a hole, crack or leaking gasket on the oil pump screen cover and tube.

 

 

Hence the reason why you should always ensure the dipstick is fully seated and why the computer monitors this condition. I will research in more depth, but if I had to "shotgun" troubleshoot, based on this write up (customer compliant) I'd start with the oil pressue system and type of oil used. He might have had the wrong oil installed. I'd change with FULL SYNTHETIC Q code specifically designed for the Ford GT and Shelby GT500 as it clearly states on the back of the bottle and change the filter with a FR-1 (820) high flow. You only have two types of filters to choose from, the factory Motorcraft and Ford Racing's FR-1 (820) at around $21.00 per. It adds 50% (on average) more flow and constructed to maintain positive contact under extreme pressure (i.e. Redline). If during the oil/filter change you find a loose filter, then half the battle is done. The thread in itself bounced around on where the noise was coming from, so I focused on Mustang 5's comments. Again, I'll research in more depth, give my GT500 a hard run and pull out the stethescope after blowing off the cobwebs. I haven't notice a "sharp" noise, but wouldn't be tearing apart my exhaust manifold to chase the noise either. My first thoughts focused on more on a, timing chain tensioner, possibly knock sensor pulsing to calm the engine down after a hard run preventing detonation (diesel run on). Remember 91+ (really 93 + octane) coupled with 16 pounds of super charged air, creates hell in that cylinder wall. Also a spun rod bearing (usually louder under load) was my second thought. Easily located with an IDS engine load test performed at a certified reputable dealer. The Integrated Diagnostic System is new as of May 2006 and very, very expensive. Google it on-line and (a Rotanda product) and take the class to see how the mechanic checks your car out. While my mind races on this write up, see if changing the oil will cure the problem along with Mobil Premium gas.

 

Airborne

[BADBOY500]

Thank you AB for your fast and in depth reply..I to am now thinking it may be as simple as the oil filter[ at least for me ] if the flow rate is that much more.

I have the Ford Motor craft 5w50 as specified however I have a wix oil filter installed and I can understand the flow and aeration of the oil and do agree that this would create a noisy valve train[more so lifter efficiency problems]but why just The DR side and only the rear cyl.....

 

The only thing that I can see is that cyl runs hotter than all the rest.

I see a pat here for most [if not all] that have this noise said it's at the same location,The only differences is how loud and the temp but all seam to be DR side bank...weird...

 

I run 93 oct and a boost addtive...always.

 

As for a poss rod bearing....I feel strongly that this not the prob...the tick is to high up...Oh and it got louder after the long tube headers went on...

The sound is just like valve clap but this is a new eng...I have heard some that were so loud I thought the car was out of oil....and mine is just a little over an acceptable sound level if only ALL cyl and or was even through the Eng,but it's not....

I may not fix yet,however I must know why and what it is so I know how hard I can drive the car for I don't need to trash it!!!!

 

Again Thank you!

Dave..Aka BB.

[phr3121]

Off topic but can you shed some light on the ENG tick???????

 

Good Link -> http://www.stangnet.com/images/stories/doc...SBs/05-15-8.pdf

 

Ticking and/or Knocking Noise From Engine: TSB 05-15-8

[BADBOY500]

Good Link -> http://www.stangnet.com/images/stories/doc...SBs/05-15-8.pdf

Yes it is....I will soon know for there is only 2 things it can be.......

 

 

1.VCT phasers

or

2.Valve lash adjusters

 

That is as long as the oil and filter are of the right spec and clean....

 

I need to find out if the 05 -5.4L 3v Eng has the same p/n as the 07/08 5.4L 4v Eng for the 2 parts listed above...

 

The o5 5.4L 3v p/n.......are....

 

VCT phasers.....3R2Z-6A257-DA

and

Lash adjusters.......5L1Z-6500-AA

Now I just need the 07/08 p/n's and if there the same .....the answer is pretty clear......

 

So if anyone can pull up this info I would be grateful....

 

Dave.

[Airborne4162]

Thank you AB for your fast and in depth reply..I to am now thinking it may be as simple as the oil filter[ at least for me ] if the flow rate is that much more.

I have the Ford Motor craft 5w50 as specified however I have a wix oil filter installed and I can understand the flow and aeration of the oil and do agree that this would create a noisy valve train[more so lifter efficiency problems]but why just The DR side and only the rear cyl.....

 

The only thing that I can see is that cyl runs hotter than all the rest.

I see a pat here for most [if not all] that have this noise said it's at the same location,The only differences is how loud and the temp but all seam to be DR side bank...weird...

 

I run 93 oct and a boost addtive...always.

 

As for a poss rod bearing....I feel strongly that this not the prob...the tick is to high up...Oh and it got louder after the long tube headers went on...

The sound is just like valve clap but this is a new eng...I have heard some that were so loud I thought the car was out of oil....and mine is just a little over an acceptable sound level if only ALL cyl and or was even through the Eng,but it's not....

I may not fix yet,however I must know why and what it is so I know how hard I can drive the car for I don't need to trash it!!!!

 

Again Thank you!

Dave..Aka BB.

Hi Dave, back from my test comparison and here's what I can offer. First I had to establish my baseline (before) and ops check (after). My GT500 at idle sounds like a orchrestra pit tuning in before the big show. Busy under that hood. I started by listening to each bank with my stethoscope on each valve cover cam bolt. If you look at your valve covers, you'll see 8 bolt heads (the last one couples as a clamp and has a nut sharing the head of the bolt). It is the best point of contact to listen in on your valving tapping away. With a long enough probe, you can reach all of them. RESULT: Noise tapping "tick" is louder towards the front, and most noticeable on the exhaust side. If you look at your valve cover, you'll see 4 bolts on top (intake side) and 4 bolts on the bottom (exhaust side). I can only concluded with long tube headers, could amplify an already existing tappet tone. What caught my attention with the fuel rail noise. Boy was that a busy and noise "tick", however, this was constant and rhythemic pulse as it should be. I noticed I had the defroster on as the A/C clutch compressor kick in and quickly turned it off. Directly behind the Electrical Generator under your air cleaner is a shiny box, which is actually the oil cooler Item 26, P/N 6A642 in the service manual and it literally cools your oil externally. Once I saw the spagetti of tubing leading in and out of the oil cooler I knew this was set up for some serious racing . With that said, your oil choice is critical (I forgot to mention earlier which type: Motorcraft SAE 5w-50 FULL SYNTHETIC Motor Oil XO-5W50-QGT or it can be order using Fords part number WSS-M2C9331-A) and the filter I perfer is Ford Racing CM-6731-FL820 (which replaces ford's factory Motorcraft FL-820S, which is also a good filter). I would immediate dump that WIX filter. You'll notice a difference in quality as soon as you pull it out of the box. A blue contact seal, much heavier than stock, clearly see the relief valve (which is tuned to you car), unlike a WIX that might be relief set at all 5.4 L to include Triton trucks. Ok, back on topic. Listening in on the oil cooling system was quite. Next, time to listen in at the front of the valve cover (use your engine builders stamping plaque as a reference point) is a perfect spot to spy on both valve chain noises (long run to the crank and a short, secondary chain shared by both cam shafts) and I was surprise to hear a smooth very low tone roar. So ford did a great job, calming that long run of bicycle chain. I listened just above the valve cover, but below the intake runner where they meet (a little shiny aluminium ridge) for "hydraulic lash adjuster (p/n 6C501) 32 total" noise, (page. 303-01C-1) under the "In-Vehicle Repair section of the manual, for 5.4L (4V) Shelby and I would hear tapping at times and not at other times. More noticeable over the center cylinders on the left (driver's side). I listened in on the ends of the supercharger pulley (careful you don't pull yourself in), power steering body for howling (common with ford), oil pan (for knock rods), nada. Everything was normal. Then I drove it like I stole it. Pulled over and other than the cooling fan kicking in hard and heavy, it was the same. I was trying to find the Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) of past "noise tick problems" on other forum sites that I read and saw it here with the yellow helmet picture posting. Good job on pulling in that .pdf, I'm not as computer savvy. If you read his post, NOTE under prechecks paragraph 5. the filter issue and paragraph 6. It states 5W-20 Premium Synthetic. This is ok for GT but not of SHELBYs. Use the part number above and consult with Ford Racing technical support. This oil has to travel all over that engine under pressure and static distribution (slung by the cranks own pendulum). I'll add one experience in my younger engine troubleshooting days. I had a Ford 150 which had a oil pick up crack at the bend of the tube causing the oil to foam and it too had a very bad knock, but the driver continued on until she spun a few bearings. Moral of the story, oil...oil...oil. Your dipstick will talk to you. Make sure it's clean and no bubbles. Not to full, but not empty (about 6 and a half quarts). I changed my oil at 500, 3500, and I have 3875 on it now with no difference in the tap. I was kinda wonder why the exhaust mod? Are they ford tubes or after market? Are they tuned short headers? Do you have a H-pipe or X-pipe? Are the factory mufflers on or off? If you've increase the flow dynamics in your exhaust stream without reprogramming your computer to compensate of the change, there could (and possibly be) valve damage. Again, I apologize for the long reply. Oh and lose the additive. Pump gas (especially in the winter) adds something so you'll be protected there, but octane booster don't do much. Professional racers know where the good gas is. As for now I've been advised, skip BP in it's entirety and stay with Mobil. So far, my pro-buddy and friend is right on target. Hope this works for you.

 

Airborne

[BADBOY500]

Ok the wix is the first thing to go..The oil is the ford full syn and is the 5w50...I am in the proses of changing the fuel rails so the blower is off at this time...As for mods ..AR long tube,race cats 3"x pipe,3" to the rear with Bassani race axle back,KB 2.8h stage 3 with 3" upper pulley and 10% over drive innovators west lower pulley/damp,4:10s with the new Eaton center in the rear this is just some of the mods Oh the tune was done at Evo buy Jon lund so I know that is good too..I run with 18+boost so thats why the additve....I changed the oil @ 500..1200..2200 and2225...I have 3600 on th car now.....dont ask...I will change on 3500 mi intervals from now on..

sounds like yours is nice and tight... what do you think ...could the VCT phasers or the lash adjusters make this noise???

If it's not the filter I think I will look at the VCT phasers do to the case it is only noisy when hot...Your thoughts????

 

Dave.

[Airborne4162]

Ok the wix is the first thing to go..The oil is the ford full syn and is the 5w50...I am in the proses of changing the fuel rails so the blower is off at this time...As for mods ..AR long tube,race cats 3"x pipe,3" to the rear with Bassani race axle back,KB 2.8h stage 3 with 3" upper pulley and 10% over drive innovators west lower pulley/damp,4:10s with the new Eaton center in the rear this is just some of the mods Oh the tune was done at Evo buy Jon lund so I know that is good too..I run with 18+boost so thats why the additve....I changed the oil @ 500..1200..2200 and2225...I have 3600 on th car now.....dont ask...I will change on 3500 mi intervals from now on..

sounds like yours is nice and tight... what do you think ...could the VCT phasers or the lash adjusters make this noise???

If it's not the filter I think I will look at the VCT phasers do to the case it is only noisy when hot...Your thoughts????

 

Dave.

Ohhh....heavy modifications. Haven't jumped this far into the gear head mode since late 70's, still able to keep up though. I'm assuming you're pulling the fuel rails to UP your injector pulse width, volume and pressure (psi). If not, disregard, if so, EVO will have to cook up another receipe for your computer (POM). If I had to choose (only if the oil/filter change proved unsuccessful), I'd go with excessive tappet clearance as the main fault and as a last restort replace the hydraulics. That's a pretty hasty move, because you really want to know if that truly is the problem. You can Leak down test (off the car) under 50 lbs proving which one (or ones) is/are bad. But in doing so, you might as well replace the lifters anyway since they're already off the car. Hopefully you pulled in all your math and gave it to the EVO folks for a complete reprogramming so as not to create a leaner burn condition burning up your valves (i.e. Wheel diameter, pulley mod, actual gear ratio off the ground and marked. 4:10 is good on paper, measuring is best). Not sure what Bassani's advertised standard CFM exhaust flow rating is capable of putting out. The only thing I saw in the 2007 Service manual dealing with valve problems were the lashers, no phasers in the 5.4L GT 500 (4V). It's to bad you can't pull the plug wire and listen in. Old timer troubleshooting, we use to plug the wire, kill the compression. If it still made noise that's the bad cylinder, back then we only had 2 valves to worry about unless it was a cosworth. You made some heavy mods and as a result significantly increased air flow, keep an eye on the CHT (Cylinder Head Temp) reading. A Leaner engine causes valves to warp under high stress...especially with 18+ pounds. The bottom half can handle the increased pressure (forged piston, iron block, main caps etc.), but not to sure about the top half. Another old timer troubleshooting tip was the simple yet effective, manual compression check to verify cylinder integrity. Thread a gauge into the spark plug hole and pump up the cylinder at it's corresponding TDC. Leak down should be slow (about 1 psi per minute). If it drop off as soon as you shut off the air, your valve are warped. I use to love ripping apart and building up cars, but I have to give Ford it's just dues...they did got this one right. To get that power spike your look for, I'd personally would have installed their SUPERPACK (605 hp, 550 lbs/ft), FR-2 Drag Pack (minus the short throw shifter, it sucks) and FR-1 exhaust muffler (49 state legal) not 50 for max air flow. Hand them all of the parameters (math) and get that crazy power, for track use only.

[phr3121]

Here are three (3) more:

 

1. Loud Ticking Noise: TSB 06-9-11

http://www.stangnet.com/images/stories/doc...SBs/06-9-11.pdf

 

2. Ticking and/or Knocking Noise From Engine: TSB 06-4-7

http://www.stangnet.com/images/stories/doc...TSBs/06-4-7.pdf

 

3. Ticking and/or Knocking Noise / Rattle From Engine: TSB 06-19-8

http://www.stangnet.com/images/stories/doc...Bs/06-19-08.pdf

[Airborne4162]

BB500, your getting some good tips here and I've read through all of the 07 Service Manual to clear up a few things. One Engine Type and Size. I've seen Valve phaser? Hydraulic Lash Adjuster....etc. Here's what I've seen so far for a 2007 Shelby GT 500, 5.4 L (4V). Key point, 4 valve. The 3V is set up differently and was offered for Ford trucks. The cylinder heads on this GT 500 come right off the Ford GT and is a very simple set up.

 

Item Part Number Description

1 6C501 Hydraulic lash adjuster (32 required)

2 6529 Camshaft roller follower (32 required)

3 6518 Valve spring retainer key (64 required)

4 6514 Valve spring retainer (32 required)

5 6513 Valve spring (32 required)

6 6A517 Valve seal (32 required)

 

That's it'

 

if your looking at the 4.6/5.4 L (3V) then you have this:

Item Part Number Description

1 N807834 Camshaft bearing cap bolt (10 required)

2 6B284 Camshaft front bearing cap

3 6B280 Camshaft bearing cap (4 required)

4 6C255 LH/ 6251 RH Camshaft

5 6529 Camshaft roller follower (12 required)

6 6518 Valve spring retainer key (24 required)

7 6514 Valve spring retainer (12 required)

8 6513 Valve spring (12 required)

9 6A517 Valve seal (12 required)

10 6C501 Hydraulic lash adjuster (12 required)

11 6279 Camshaft phaser and sprocket bolt

12 6C524 Camshaft phaser and sprocket

 

Not sure what "phaser" you're referring to. The GT 500 valve component exploded view show no phaser parts, making the oil type (50 weight, not 20 weight) crucial towards ensuring the Hydraulic Lash adjuster are doing their job. phr3121 TSB posting are excellent reference, but keep in mind, they are for 3V heads. I haven't been able to find any TSB on the Shelbys. Maybe because we to proud to initiate one against the car. Dealers are quick to fix (usually) vs. a black eye on their pride and joy seller. You're probably not going to get much warranty support after all to the mods. Personally, I think the normal car is too much "car" for the average dealer. You'll be pressed to find someone IDS certified, they do however network knowledge by consulting one another drawing conclusions based on a stock configuration. If you get a dealer who troubleshoots "in-house" without upchanneling the problem, look for another dealer. At present, your car is above their capabilities so you're on your own. Go to the HELM web site, order the Service Manual and service link in disk form. Rotunda sells the tools (expensive) and routinely check the NHTSA website for Shelby specific TSBs or call your dealer for any new update TSB. (This will probably be non-existent...remember too proud to dime out a Shelby). Your only great source of info so far will be this site and all of our experiences. I'll stay tuned as long as this site stays up.

 

Airborne

[phr3121]

Airborne,

That was a great write-up on the issue! Very informative, I enjoyed reading it all. You remind me a little of "68fastback" and his in-depth way of writing. The two of you have something in common. On a separate note, check out the link below on a separate topic:

 

Oil Catch Can (OCC) Install for the Shelby GT500:

Link -> http://forum.teamshelby.com/forums/index.p...=11717&st=0

 

I was curious to know your thoughts on the subject. "68fastback" has also done a short write-up on the OCC issue.

You can respond here or under the OCC original topic.

 

Thanks....

[68fastback]

Yes it is....I will soon know for there is only 2 things it can be.......

 

 

1.VCT phasers

or

2.Valve lash adjusters

 

That is as long as the oil and filter are of the right spec and clean....

 

I need to find out if the 05 -5.4L 3v Eng has the same p/n as the 07/08 5.4L 4v Eng for the 2 parts listed above...

 

The o5 5.4L 3v p/n.......are....

 

VCT phasers.....3R2Z-6A257-DA

and

Lash adjusters.......5L1Z-6500-AA

Now I just need the 07/08 p/n's and if there the same .....the answer is pretty clear......

 

So if anyone can pull up this info I would be grateful....

 

Dave.

 

Dave, I don't think the 4Vs have the VCT-pahsers (just the 3Vs).

 

Airborne, great write-up(s) ...thanks. Got me to do some thinking. I do agree the Wix could be starving the oil supply a bit but hard to know. Still the 820S or, even better, the FRP..820 seem like the best filter choice -- both have the latest drai-back silicone valves too.

 

Dave, I've been followig this thread but haven't posted because Airborne' sinsights are right on. I am at a loss for how to better locate the source (beyond stethescope) without going inside. Lackig an oil-supply problem of some sort, the only thing I can see that would produce that tic, and do it/vary the way it does (only after warm, etc), would be some defect or dirt in the bleed-down valve in the hydraulic lash adjuster (HLA). I think if it was wrist-pin/rod-journal it would not sound like a tic (would be blunter and more consistent, imo). It's also possible a cam lobe/finger-follower is wiped (not familiar with OHC sounds tho), and causing the hydraulic-lash adjuster to top-out (not sure how much over-shoot they have designed). If you open it you may be able to inspect the cam<->follower contact point for wear that's inconsistent with other cylinders without having to remove anything ...just by cranking the engine with the coils/spark off(?) if the lash-adjuster will push down a bit.

 

Which leads to another thought, Dave... you may be able to tell if the bleed down valve in either of the HLAs is flaky on the rear cylinder without pulling it or using a bleed-down tester by artificially presurizing the oil gallery somehow (I think racers pre-presssurize, but not sure how -- possibly thru a pump that uses the filter interface as PJ used to do 40 years ago(?) --dunno) and the HLA should come-up to 'attention' almost immediately and take the lash to zero. If you turn off the pressure and press on each finger-follower and compare the bleed-down feel/time to other cylinders you might be able to make a determination if something is 'different' -- dunno. If a HLA bleed-down valve is not right, it should drop down either quickly (fast-bleed, seal damamge) or more slowly (clogged -- maybe less likely on such a new engine, but possible) when pressure is removed. I imagine the only correct way to test them is to remove them, etc, but that means pulling the cams, etc.

 

That's about all I can think of. If you're probing with a steth, also listen to other areas around that cylinder where you think it should NOT tick ..e.g. down lower on the cam cover 'side' ...even on the side of the block and compare to other cylinders. If you hear the tic on that cylinder where it should NOT be, then it may not be a valvetrain tic.

 

Good luck ..hope you can grab a lead on it somehow... -Dan

 

--

Phr.. thanks for kind words ;-)

[Airborne4162]

Airborne,

That was a great write-up on the issue! Very informative, I enjoyed reading it all. You remind me a little of "68fastback" and his in-depth way of writing. The two of you have something in common. On a separate note, check out the link below on a separate topic:

 

Oil Catch Can (OCC) Install for the Shelby GT500:

Link -> http://forum.teamshelby.com/forums/index.p...=11717&st=0

 

I was curious to know your thoughts on the subject. "68fastback" has also done a short write-up on the OCC issue.

You can respond here or under the OCC original topic.

 

Thanks....

I appreciate the kind words. If you haven't guess it, I'm a retired aircraft mechanic. Like they use to teach us in the military, "there aren't any gas stations in the sky, so you better fix it right..." not to mention if we didn't and it cause a loss of life or property, we'd be looking at 2 years in Levenworth. On our off days, we (mechanics) built extremely hot cars. Bringing in aircraft technology onto a Pinto was wild stuff. I blew up my 72 Vega and it was beyond fun. Although I'm alittle physically damaged due to one war to many, I still like to think I'm young. Some of you out there can relate. Todays cars powerplant might change alittle, but they all suck, queeze, bang and blow...that's the way an engine goes. At least that's how they taught us in tech school. I'll check out your link and that AN (Army Navy) anodize fitting for what I think was an oil drain system?

 

Airborne all the way...

[BADBOY500]

Thanks all for the help and the education with this for I do nothing before I learn first..With that said I do feel the root of this is the filter and thats an easy fix provided I did no damage to the Eng. 2ND I now know that we [5.4 4v ]have no VCT sys so thats out.So that leaves only HLA and someone has already replaced them and the prob is still there witch leads me back to the oil filter and oil.....

The tick that I have was there before the mods and aft..but others on this site have been chasing this tick and theres is worse than mine,

much worse and this is why I am recruiting the knowledge of others and will share with others and on other sites.

AB... I think your right on with the lets not put a black spot on there prestiges Shelby name...JMO..But there is the trans issue that they just do an R+R and there is still no TSB on it ...... they just call the hot line and then they send the trans/clutch out.....Hummmmmmmmmm...

Again,Thank you all for the time you have in this and it will not go to waste..Oh, I too am an A&P..........No war's under my belt though but I thank you and others that do...

 

AB and 68.....You guy's know your stuff ....

PHR.....You do know were to look....

And John that vid site was a great help...

 

Dave.

[Airborne4162]

phr3121 I checked out the site threads and I can't be too critical when at one time I thought I knew more than the engineers and mod'ed and mod'ed and blew up things and so on. But here it goes: This looks like the Crankcase Vent system redesigned to work outside of Ford enclosed PCV system. Problem is, Ford isn't stupid. They made sure if you do this, your PCM won't forgive you later. Right out of the Service Manual: The PCV monitor consists of a modified PCV system design. The PCV valve is installed into the rocker cover using a quarter-turn cam-lock design to prevent accidental disconnection. High retention force molded plastic lines are used from the PCV valve to the intake manifold. The diameter of the lines and the intake manifold entry fitting are increased so that inadvertent disconnection of the lines after a vehicle is repaired causes either an immediate engine stall or does not allow the engine to be restarted. In the event that the vehicle does not stall if the line between the intake manifold and PCV valve is inadvertently disconnected, the vehicle has a large vacuum leak that causes the vehicle to run lean at idle. This illuminates the MIL after 2 consecutive driving cycles and stores one or more of the following DTCs: Lack of HO2S sensor switches, bank 1 (P2195), Lack of HO2S sensor switches bank 2 (P2197), fuel system lean, bank 1 (P0171) or fuel system lean, bank 2 (P0174).

 

I'm not sure how that "can design", can control variable pressures at different RPMs. With that said, I'm back to Acft "Flow dynamics 101". You can change the amount, and speed of air travel depending on the diameter or shape of it's container, in this case the tube leading to the intake. More importantly, when pistons travel up and down at (X) speed, it causes a (Y) positive pressure in the crankcase (hence the threaded oil fill cap). X-Y = blown seals throughout your engine if you don't somehow positively control that fluctuating pressure. I think ford did and excellent job by routing the pressure back into the intake which does two things that I can see at first glance. (1) it circulates the flow of air from pulling trapped crankcase (+) pressure of the RH bank and trailing (or following) from the LH bank, bottomline is it keeps the pressures within a reasonable range so as not to overload the seals from within, and (2) it works in conjunction with the RPM of the motor. The faster it turns, the higher the vacuum (or flow in negative terms which is measurable in inches of mercury of "Hg). This suction collapses the inside of the block (but since the block is iron it will pull in from the weakest point, a gasket). Racing engines use PCV too, they just tap at the back of the exhaust header were pressure is lowest, and pulling the flumes out the tail pipe, vs. back into the intake. Why the intake? Well the obvious one is emission control and the PCM is all over that, second, the oil mist actually helps line the piston walls which are cross-hatched cut grooves designed to suspend oil (minutely) so that you don't burn up rings are high RPMs. With this oil can design, I can only see future problems. You've disconnect a monitored system by the PCM, you've loss control of your Positive Crankcase flow, you've lessen the protective factor of your piston ring system. And I'm not sure if the Supercharger depends on that oil mist too, but I would have to say yes, because this PCV has a heating element designed to warm up below 40F (hence the wiring going to the valve which is not a measuring point by the computer) to warm up the air/oil mist leading to the SC. With the computer out of the picture, you might have a lean condition from a sensor (HO2) further down the pike. Hate to find out this system integrated the SC piece after is ceases up. If a 5 million jet engine comes equipped with a PCV system, then what harm could one do in a $19,500 Shelby engine?

 

Airborne

[BADBOY500]

And I'm not sure if the Supercharger depends on that oil mist too, but I would have to say yes, because this PCV has a heating element designed to warm up below 40F (hence the wiring going to the valve which is not a measuring point by the computer) to warm up the air/oil mist leading to the SC. With the computer out of the picture, you might have a lean condition from a sensor (HO2) further down the pike. Hate to find out this system integrated the SC piece after is ceases up. If a 5 million jet engine comes equipped with a PCV system, then what harm could one do in a $19,500 Shelby engine?

 

Airborne

 

 

 

Thats a good point!!!!

Dave.

[Airborne4162]

And I'm not sure if the Supercharger depends on that oil mist too, but I would have to say yes, because this PCV has a heating element designed to warm up below 40F (hence the wiring going to the valve which is not a measuring point by the computer) to warm up the air/oil mist leading to the SC. With the computer out of the picture, you might have a lean condition from a sensor (HO2) further down the pike. Hate to find out this system integrated the SC piece after is ceases up. If a 5 million jet engine comes equipped with a PCV system, then what harm could one do in a $19,500 Shelby engine?

 

Airborne

 

 

 

Thats a good point!!!!

Dave.

 

Sure looks like Ford spent alot of time, money in parts and pieces...so it must be important. AB

[68fastback]

Dave, on the 5.4, there's a fairly large-diameter "bubbler tube" that comes from a fitting somewhere at the very rear-center of the intake, if I recall, and goes up to an angled-down tubular fitting in the center-rear of the Eaton 122H. I'm not sure of it's function but possibly it's S/C lubrication. Since you have the KB, possibly it reuses that tube for lubrication?

 

Possibly the heated line Airborne mentioned (dunno) comes off that assembly on the pass-side (toward rear) of the S/C, just above where the line from the pass-side PCV connects in. There's also a small vacuum line immediately adjacent which routes through a tube with two wires (I think) and then splits-off around the rear of the S/C to somewhere at/near the rear of the TB. For some reason, I remember seeing a note in the Condor assembly book to be sure this vacuum line is tucked under that bubbler tube fitting on rear of the S/C -- dunno why because they do not interconnect in any way that I could see. Since you have the KB on yours, I'm assuming it reuses the "bubbler," the electrical/heating connections, and the vacuum line(s) same as the Eaton, but dunno, so just mentioning fwiw.

 

The only reasons I can think why that vacuum line needs to be tucked under the bubbler fitting at the S/C rear is either that the highest point in the vacuum line must be lower than the bubbler fitting (no clue why, possibly a [anti-/]siphoning effect of some kind?) or it just makes an easier/neater install. But I'm sure I read in the assembly book a special note to "ensure" that the vacuum line is "routed/tucked under" that fitting ...or words to that effect. Maybe somehow it affects S/C lubrication.

 

These engines have so many little subsystems and 'doohickys' <lol> on them! <sheesh!>

 

Dan