Aluminum Oxidation

[sharabi]

I received the package an i tried to spray it on a cloth first to rub it on the aluminum. It has a pink color to it. i tried on another surface ( old aluminum piece) same it has this pink color. So am not gone put it on the engine period. I may use it on the rear solid axle, will help halting the corrosion that is taking place in the bare metal..certainly not the engine...glad i did not spray it directly ...always good to try one an old piece first.

[Ford blue blood]

I was with my car from arrival. No prep under the hood other than fluid checks. The two water outs on the top of the intake have mild "corrosion" on them and thats it. Given the build date of 18 Feb and arrival date of 3 Mar. it did not sit around very long in any one spot. Seams like they come from the factory like that.

[svtkeith]

Ouch, man that suxs, I hope you fixed the prob, thats what I was saying even minerals in water will cause that reaction.

 

Did you try rubbing the area with steel wool, that might work.

[sharabi]

Ouch, man that suxs, I hope you fixed the prob, thats what I was saying even minerals in water will cause that reaction.

 

Did you try rubbing the area with steel wool, that might work.

 

 

Actually i tried with damp cloth ..and you can see in the same thread some photos after that looked better...but once that blackened oxidized area is there ..the only remedy would be removing them and powder coat them and that will be an extreme measure that am not willing to take...however it happened to other members that you can read in the thread that never had their car prepped by the dealer nor washed the engine.

[cammerunderpressure]

Actually i tried with damp cloth ..and you can see in the same thread some photos after that looked better...but once that blackened oxidized area is there ..the only remedy would be removing them and powder coat them and that will be an extreme measure that am not willing to take...however it happened to other members that you can read in the thread that never had their car prepped by the dealer nor washed the engine.

 

 

My car has this big time. Actual flakes where comming off and landing on the valve covers, etc... as dust.

 

My car was only at dealer for about a week and never driven outside. I enclosed trailered it home and put it right into my garage. It never saw salt or water. I'd guess the dealer washed the car once during prep, but noway did that reach and get every place in the engine bay wet.

 

This has to be a normal atmospheric reaction / oxidation, etc... Either that or when they do a leak test at the plant they are using some water that is causing it.

 

Now that I have whiped it all down with a wet rag, it seems to have greatly slowed.

 

I'm think it is best to just accept it as a "normal" element of raw aluminum castings???

[sharabi]

It will not get to me..will not take the fun am having with this great car...am blessed to be able to afford this car..I will keep with a big

[pjsaleen266]

I piked my car up from a dealer my friend works at w/ 4 miles on it . The oxidation is the same . Parts must be sitting outside at plant.

[Radiater]

I piked my car up from a dealer my friend works at w/ 4 miles on it . The oxidation is the same . Parts must be sitting outside at plant.

 

Mine has this in the exact same places and the engine has never seen any cleaners at all and has not been driven in salt.

 

R

[sharabi]

Mine has this in the exact same places and the engine has never seen any cleaners at all and has not been driven in salt.

 

R

 

 

So it is likely defective batch of pieces....interesting.

[svtkeith]

Ford should have to replace those parts, that should not be happening.

 

I just went out to the garage and looked at mine and it all looks fine, i've had my car almost 2 years it was never driven in the rain but I am sure some people do, whats supposed to happen the car fall apart if they do, no way people should let this go on

and the dealers not do anything about it. IMO.

[sharabi]

Ford should have to replace those parts, that should not be happening.

 

I just went out to the garage and looked at mine and it all looks fine, i've had my car almost 2 years it was never driven in the rain but I am sure some people do, whats supposed to happen the car fall apart if they do, no way people should let this go on

and the dealers not do anything about it. IMO.

 

 

I agree but what would be the possible remedy...they will not give me a new car...and you cannot remove all the aluminum parts including the engine parts and powder coat them....I hope there will be a remedy and i will follow it ....if some one can give an input it will be greatly appreciated.

 

If 68fastback is reading this i would like his opinion.

[svtkeith]

I agree but what would be the possible remedy...they will not give me a new car...and you cannot remove all the aluminum parts including the engine parts and powder coat them....I hope there will be a remedy and i will follow it ....if some one can give an input it will be greatly appreciated.

 

If 69fastback is reading this i would like his opinion.

 

 

Are the aluminum heads doing the same?, even so if it's defective alum parts they should replace them.

[sharabi]

Are the aluminum heads doing the same?, even so if it's defective alum parts they should replace them.

 

 

Yes and the alternator. Not as bad though but it is there....Here is weighing the benefit and risk...I can have them replacing those if i press for it but i cannot guarantee that they will not screw some thing up in the process...am really in the gray zone with that one.

[svtkeith]

Yes and the alternator. Not as bad though but it is there....Here is weighing the benefit and risk...I can have them replacing those if i press for it but i cannot guarantee that they will not screw some thing up in the process...am really in the gray zone with that one.

 

 

Yes, I hear you they may screw something up trying to fix the prob, Like you and so many others that have one of these cars

 

I love it to no end, but damn Ford made so many F*&^%K up's building this car it makes one question their QA.

 

Oh well, like you said it won't stop us from having fun with the thing. :happy feet:

[DubbsFaris]

You know, I was washing my boat this weekend at a carwash, and this guy came over and told me to be careful around the instrument panel. Apparently, oxidation occurs due to the fact that San Antonio has hardwater(calcium and limestone buildup), and the car wash companies use a sodium solution to soften the water and counteract this. It is basically like using saltwater to wash your car. Can you beleive this? So it got me thinkin on your problem here...do you live in an area with hardwater, and might the dealership use the same method to clean and detail your car? was it a chemical they used on your car used in an incorrect application? probably to get such a quick acting result, but if not, maybe this is something that should be asked as well.

[sharabi]

Some members had same problem without water getting in touch with their engine bay.

[68fastback]

I just read thru this thread ...I've seen that corrosion before but here's what struck me as unusual:

 

It's on many parts unrelated in manufacture.

Some cars (around much longer) don't have any corrosion.

Parts that are totally isolated by rubber as wall as those that are grounded have it.

 

So it would seem it's not electrolysis from the car's electrical system and has to be something it was exposed to *after* manufacture (since all aluminum parts have it). It could be exposure to salt, but it seems too widespread -- it sould have to be something that is coating everything realtively evenly.

 

High mineral water could be a cause, but this seems worse that what thqat would do in such a short period.

 

I'm starting to think it might have been in train transport. Diesel engines put out a lot of HCl-landen particulates and, possibly, cars that ride in carriers nearer to the engines get a stronger dose depending on the engines, the distance transported and atmoshperic conditions (e.g. humidity may make more particulates stick). That would also fit with no-age-pattern, no date-of-mfgr pattern (if true), etc.

 

I've noticed on cars that if you have an exhaust leak near an aluminum part it can cause corrosion in a similar way very rapidly, especially in damp conditions. It's posible road salt (garden variety NaCl or, typically, calcium carbonate(?) up her in the north) might do similar damage, I think heavy dosings of hydrogen and sulfur chlorides from the diesel engines just might be the culprit.

 

Dunno, but that'd be my guess ...or at least a working hypothesis to test against. E.g. if true, and you clean a part and 'neutralize' it, it should not return (or return much more slowly since it's hard to get it out of all the pores/pits it casues ...likely microscopic).

 

It's also possible it gets exposed to similar polutants in a large city (even in a garage), but that seems like much less than what might have occurred in transit -- dunno.

 

Hope those aircraft products do the trick ...hopefully permanently --Dan

 

<edit:> has anyone noticed a pattern yet in the cars that do/don't have this condition? Maybe a poll would help. It could be added by editing the first post, I think --Dan

[sharabi]

Thx Dan ...your input is greatly appreciated.

[mciarochi]

Hi - I got a bottle of the ACF-50 from Aircraft Spruce, squirted it on and the corrosion vanished. The stuff's wonderful.

 

The only part that has some residual staining is the computer casing, which is a smooth finish; the corrosion came off, but there is minor discoloration in the affected areas (but no pitting).

 

I used to live in Tucson - major hard water problems. Here in Georgia, soft as a baby's butt. No calcification, no road salt. The corrosion happened within the first few weeks.

 

I've seen it on my other cars with aluminum parts, including alternators. It's not a Ford thing, it's an aluminum thing. On the 460 Edelbrock intake, the corrosion created a problem at the little stub to the water pump - it ate through the pipe at the joint. I ended up fixing it with foil and epoxy. Wish I'd known about the ACF-50 a few years ago.

 

You can spray the ACF-50 all over the engine (not that I did, but you can) - it does not harm electronics, rubber or plastic. I'm going to clean up the engine compartment with an air tool (they sell the engine detail tool at Home Depot for about $10) - first light solvent, then rinse, then I'm going over the whole thing with the ACF-50.

 

http://www.corrosion-control.com/acf50.html

[sharabi]

Hi - I got a bottle of the ACF-50 from Aircraft Spruce, squirted it on and the corrosion vanished. The stuff's wonderful.

 

The only part that has some residual staining is the computer casing, which is a smooth finish; the corrosion came off, but there is minor discoloration in the affected areas (but no pitting).

 

I used to live in Tucson - major hard water problems. Here in Georgia, soft as a baby's butt. No calcification, no road salt. The corrosion happened within the first few weeks.

 

I've seen it on my other cars with aluminum parts, including alternators. It's not a Ford thing, it's an aluminum thing. On the 460 Edelbrock intake, the corrosion created a problem at the little stub to the water pump - it ate through the pipe at the joint. I ended up fixing it with foil and epoxy. Wish I'd known about the ACF-50 a few years ago.

 

You can spray the ACF-50 all over the engine (not that I did, but you can) - it does not harm electronics, rubber or plastic. I'm going to clean up the engine compartment with an air tool (they sell the engine detail tool at Home Depot for about $10) - first light solvent, then rinse, then I'm going over the whole thing with the ACF-50.

 

http://www.corrosion-control.com/acf50.html

 

Is it possible to post photos after treatment...am concerned about the purple discoloration that the liquid has when i tried it first on a towel.

[68fastback]

Thx Dan ...your input is greatly appreciated.

 

...sorry for all my typing errors ...I was heading to an appointment so was rushed. That ACF-50 sure sounds like good stuff and really does address the root cause of corrosion. Is says all you need is a .00020 coating -- that's thin!!

[mciarochi]

Is it possible to post photos after treatment...am concerned about the purple discoloration that the liquid has when i tried it first on a towel.

You can't see it. It's certainly not purple, although that would be an attention-getter! The picture would just look like a normal motor. I should have done before and after, but didn't think of it.

 

For aircraft, they recommend fogging. With the bottle I ordered, they sent a little aerosol bottle that you pump up (gratis), so you get a very fine spray. It does not make any kind of mess, and feels dry to the touch. No smell, no smoke when the engine heated up.

 

I'm wondering if it would be a cure for the rear axle? I'm going to try that...

[1FAFP90]

With the bottle I ordered, they sent a little aerosol bottle that you pump up (gratis), so you get a very fine spray.

 

Were you able to order just one single bottle? On their site it looks like you have to order multiples (case / box / etc) Did you have to ask for pump up sprayer?

[sharabi]

You can't see it. It's certainly not purple, although that would be an attention-getter! The picture would just look like a normal motor. I should have done before and after, but didn't think of it.

 

For aircraft, they recommend fogging. With the bottle I ordered, they sent a little aerosol bottle that you pump up (gratis), so you get a very fine spray. It does not make any kind of mess, and feels dry to the touch. No smell, no smoke when the engine heated up.

 

I'm wondering if it would be a cure for the rear axle? I'm going to try that...

 

 

I got the aerosol...i will try it on my blazer.

[sharabi]

I hit the whole engine with the ACF 50 after calling their 800 number and being reassured that it will cause no discoloration...i tried a small area then went for the whole thing and i was amazed by the result. I would recommend it to every engine as a protection.

Further more am gone call the local airport where they have certified application on airplanes to have the whole car treated in a professional way...there are areas that we cannot reach no matter how good we are but they are able to reach it the same way they treat the wings the body and the engine of the plane. that will guarantee the rust process will be slowed significantly next to nill. It will be my next mod

 

here are some photos after i applied the stuff to the engine:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

AM A HAPPY CAMPER :happy feet:

[mciarochi]

Super!

 

On the other hand, today I did crawl on my belly and squirted the axle rust. I took a "before" picture.

 

It turned from rust brown to wet rust brown. I didn't bother with an "after" picture, I'll just get some POR-15 and paint it black...

[mciarochi]

Were you able to order just one single bottle? On their site it looks like you have to order multiples (case / box / etc) Did you have to ask for pump up sprayer?

I ordered a single bottle from Aircraft Spruce, whom I know as a reputable dealer (I'm a pilot).

 

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/acf50.php

[6-Speed]

I ordered a single bottle from Aircraft Spruce, whom I know as a reputable dealer (I'm a pilot).

 

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/acf50.php

I noticed some dark oxidation patches on the PCM case; I may have to get some of the ACF and wipe it on the case.

 

I used POR15 Marine Clean and Metal Ready to prep my axle prior to painting it; the Metal Ready solution took the rust right off.

[Cali_KR]

Just now stumbled onto this thread, I have a 2008 that I've had since Nov.25.2007 with 2000 milies on the odo, California car, never been in the rain, always garaged, and I've got the oxidization everywhere!

[sharabi]

I used POR15 Marine Clean and Metal Ready to prep my axle prior to painting it; the Metal Ready solution took the rust right off.

 

I have another opinion on painting the axle....once the rust process starts, it is there...it will continue underneath the paint....i would like for this area to stay exposed and hit it with the acf 50 as needed to keep the real protection and not letting the paint stand as a barrier between the acf and metal...i will be sold on the idea of painting the axle if no rust process has started period...I think painting the axle even after using the rust converter is just keeping the rust process away from my eyes and not stopping it.....while the frequent application of this great stuff that is trusted in aviation industry is a real solution in significantly delaying the damage from the rust....JMHO.