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Aluminum Oxidation


sharabi

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I posted those photos in a different thread but i started a new one because the answer am getting from the dealer is that is a normal process. I would like to know if any one else had a similar issue. i know it could be harsh cleaner the dealer used to detail the car on delivery but they denied that. i never used any thing on the engine. the car is driven twice in the snow.

 

GT500001.jpg

GT500002.jpg

GT500003.jpg

 

I tried to clean with microfiber cloth and water only but did not come out completely.

The reason for the thread is just to see if any one else had similar thing.

thx.

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Wow,

Even my 05 Mustang GT is not that bad and I have not had to clean the aluminum

engine parts, but only the rocker covers.

 

I have seen this on Marine engines in boats from the salt air and ocean though.......

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A friends GT 500 has the same thing and it has never seen snow or salt as the car came from Jackson, MS and lives in a garage. The oxidation is very soft and will rub off easy with a course rag or one of those teflon pot scubbers. WD-40 does a real good job of stoping or at least really slowing it down.

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Also Castrol "Super Clean" does the same thing to aluminum

 

I ran across this issue with my Z06 a few years ago....I have the name of a really good product that I will post later..I pick it up at Harley shops. and it is the ticket to a clean engine bay, with no corrosion issues.....

 

Unfortunately, there isn't much you can dp to reverse the electrolosys that you are seeing....

 

Sorry!

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hit the spots with ACF 50 works gteat on my aircraft should do thde trick on the shelby.

 

 

I am interested in the info on it. do you use a spray on the engine bay?, is it ok with plastics and wires and that sort of thing that will exist next to the aluminum parts? and does it change the color of the powder coating of the aluminum (which is a nice shiny silver color)?

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The product I had referred to is called, "S100" "Total Cycle Cleaner"

 

Just spray on a cool engine bay, and hose off....obviously some light brushing may be necessary, results may vary, contents may settle in shipment...... :hysterical:

 

I bought mine at my local Harley Dealership.....Stuff is great, and is very safe!

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A friends GT 500 has the same thing and it has never seen snow or salt as the car came from Jackson, MS and lives in a garage. The oxidation is very soft and will rub off easy with a course rag or one of those teflon pot scubbers. WD-40 does a real good job of stoping or at least really slowing it down.

 

Would it be possible to ask your friend if his GT500 was prepped and if the engine was cleaned at the dealer, or it was picked up without prepping.

The only concern i have about WD-40 is that its flammable and i want to get to the area close to the headers and i do not want to use flammable stuff.

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Interesting read on the effects of CITY WATER, and this issue:

 

THE ALUMINUM EFFECT:

 

 

 

For almost a century now, Aluminum products have been used in aircraft structure as well as skin, engine components, fuel lines and propellers. They most commonly range from thin sheets stock of alclad of around .015 to .025, which are used in sheet form or press formed into bulkheads, to milled, drilled, bent or welded billets or castings of just about any size. We have the 6061-T’s, 2024-T’s, 7075-t’s and many others including the more recently developed alloys, such as 5086, 5454, 5456, 6070 which have strength advantages over those previously mentioned. The "T's" referred to above are in regard to heat-treating, 0 being soft and malleable to 6 which is hard and dense.

 

 

 

Aluminum is susceptible to corrosions like oxidation from prolonged exposure to high or low pH levels, and galvanic corrosion when dissimilar metals are in electrical contact. We’ve all seen it, the white powdery substance around the heads of bolts, nuts and steel washers attached to aluminum. The use of Alclad, Zinc Chromate, Epoxy’s and polyurethane’s have long been used to prevent or postpone these types of corrosion. Alclad aluminum is claimed to be effective against corrosion when exposed to pH ranges from 4 to 8.5. These coatings and plantings are effective fixed methods when properly applied and maintained. However, when alclad, Zinced or painted aluminum is drilled for the insertion of a fastener such as an AN bolt, there is an opportunity for galvanic corrosion to develop. This corrosive process is accelerated when the area is exposed to wetness, especially when the wetness is higher than pH 8.5 or more alkaline.

 

With that, we get to the effects of cleaning products with improper pH. The acidity or alkalinity of cleaning products can affect the corrosion behavior of aluminum alloys especially in areas where dissimilar metals are present or oxide coatings are not present. Corrosion will be accelerated, sometimes even instant when cleaning products with significantly lower than neutral or significantly higher than neutral pH levels are present. When cleaning aluminum airplanes, we must take appropriate measures to avoid soaps that have wide variations of pH from neutral. Click on the “ph Scale” tab to see pH levels of some commonly found solutions. Remember that COMPOSICLEAN™ Bucket-Wash™ is neutral.

 

Oxidation or pitting type corrosion is commonly produced by halide ions, commonly found in chlorine. The water used to wash and rinse aluminum aircraft should be checked for pH levels. “City Water” usually measures out to approximately neutral or pH 7, or a slight bit to either side. Be cautious of heavily chlorinated tap “city” water that can have pH levels onto the 12-13 range and can accelerate oxidation, pitting and eventually can cause total deterioration of aluminum. Please test the water you intent to use to wash your plane.

 

Granted they are talking about washing airplanes....but aluminum is aluminum.....

 

Here is the link to the entire page....it is a company that mfg's wash products for aircraft, and motorhomes = ALUMINUM....

 

Composiclean

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The product I had referred to is called, "S100" "Total Cycle Cleaner"

 

Just spray on a cool engine bay, and hose off....obviously some light brushing may be necessary, results may vary, contents may settle in shipment...... :hysterical:

 

I bought mine at my local Harley Dealership.....Stuff is great, and is very safe!

 

I am thinking about using acf 50 first it seems a good real solution to halt corrosion for a year . it could be applied once to twice a year. if it is safe on aircraft engine should be good for gt500.

i looked at a post about oil change in the same forum

http://forum.teamshelby.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=25027

5th 10th photos

it seems it has some of that white stuff on it not as bad as mine but that is a car in florida with 787 miles on it 5 weeks old.

BTW i envy him for his garage and lift.

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Sharabi,

 

I think I am the one Ford Blue Blood was referring to. Yes mine looks similar to yours. Received my car from Jackson, MS and drove to Birmingham, AL. At about 350 miles, when Ford Blue Blood saw my car, that is when I noticed it.

 

I keep my car in a garage and it does not see rain. My car now has about 750 miles on it. Our roads have not iced over here and we do not use salt on the roads that I am aware of. The last snow accumulation on the roads here was in 1993.

 

When I picked my car up at the dealership, it had 4 miles on the odometer. I ordered it in November, was built 12/14/07 and I picked it up from the dealer 1/09/08. The dealership did detail the car, but when I checked the car out at the dealership, I did not see where they cleaned up the engine area, and did not see the usual water spots in the engine compartment.

 

When was your car made ?? I wonder if it was around the same time.

 

Anyway from the related posts, I have now ordered the ACF 50 on ebay.

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Sharabi,

 

I think I am the one Ford Blue Blood was referring to. Yes mine looks similar to yours. Received my car from Jackson, MS and drove to Birmingham, AL. At about 350 miles, when Ford Blue Blood saw my car, that is when I noticed it.

 

I keep my car in a garage and it does not see rain. My car now has about 750 miles on it. Our roads have not iced over here and we do not use salt on the roads that I am aware of. The last snow accumulation on the roads here was in 1993.

 

When I picked my car up at the dealership, it had 4 miles on the odometer. I ordered it in November, was built 12/14/07 and I picked it up from the dealer 1/09/08. The dealership did detail the car, but when I checked the car out at the dealership, I did not see where they cleaned up the engine area, and did not see the usual water spots in the engine compartment.

 

When was your car made ?? I wonder if it was around the same time.

 

Anyway from the related posts, I have now ordered the ACF 50 on ebay.

 

Thx for the reply. That is interesting. i thought it could be the dealer using abrasive cleaner or driving twice in the snow, however there are areas affected that no way the salt will reach.

 

i tracked my car through blue oval:

 

Receipt Date: 10/5/2007

Serialize Date: 11/15/2007

Segment Date: 11/15/2007

Sequence Date: 11/29/2007

Blend Date: 11/30/2007

Produced Date: 12/10/2007

 

Am going ACF 50 too, I will use it on the rear axle too, I had this link if you can get it from e-bay for better price let me know please:

 

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/acf50.php

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Thx for the reply. That is interesting. i thought it could be the dealer using abrasive cleaner or driving twice in the snow, however there are areas affected that no way the salt will reach.

 

i tracked my car through blue oval:

 

Receipt Date: 10/5/2007

Serialize Date: 11/15/2007

Segment Date: 11/15/2007

Sequence Date: 11/29/2007

Blend Date: 11/30/2007

Produced Date: 12/10/2007

 

Am going ACF 50 too, I will use it on the rear axle too, I had this link if you can get it from e-bay for better price let me know please:

 

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/acf50.php

 

I have some on order as well.

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This does seem like some great stuff...

 

 

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

It can be used for cars,tractors,motorcycle,Jetski,seaside front metal windows,doors, machines,the list is long basically everything where corrosion appears or you can prevent

 

ACF-50 (Anti-Corrosion Formula) was originally designed to protect aircraft from existing and new corrosion and is now available to motorcyclists and Cars..etc

 

 

About ACF-50:

 

ACF-50 was developed 15 years ago and has amassed a record of performance unique in the aerospace industry. Here are some of its unique properties:

 

 

ACF-50 is an excellent penetrant.

ACF-50 provides excellent low-shear lubrication to moving parts and cables.

ACF-50 kills any corrosion currently in progress with just one application.

Removal of the corrosion by-product is not necessary.

ACF-50 is good for rubber, preventing it from cracking or drying out.

In most applications, ACF-50's unique properties will last for 24 months before it is consumed and needs to be re-applied.

The ultra-thin-film does not attract and hold salt crystals and dirt particles.

The

ultra-thin film does not "dry". It stays a flexible liquid and therefore seals the surface better as the surface expands and contracts.

ACF-50 will not displace or melt any grease which is already in place. It will mix with it and make it more efficient.

ACF-50 will not support combustion.

ACF-50 has a very low percentage of Volatile Organic Compounds (less than 17%).

ACF-50 is non-carcinogenic and virtually non-toxic. Incidentally, full toxicality testing has been done to support this claim.

ACF-50 will not harm any plastics or painted surfaces.

ACF-50 can be safely applied to electronics such as radios, timers, test equipment, antenna connections, computers, etc. However, we recommend you avoid using it on LED's, LCD's and soft membrane switches.

ACF-50 can be safely applied to electrical components such as alternators, starters, magnetos, generators, distributors, carburators, wiring, switches, rheostats, compressors, battery terminals, light bulb sockets, electrical connectors, circuit breakers, ignition systems, wire harnesses, etc.

 

 

ACF-50 actually costs less than other products since:

 

 

It lasts for 24 months(12months for no-new items).

Application is fast and easy with virtually no cleanup. It doesn't leave a sticky, waxy mess during application, thereby reducing cleanup time.

 

 

Corrosion-related replacement and repair costs are cut substantially.

Inspections can be performed without labor-intensive removal procedures.

Corrosion prevention and control become more predictable, as an application can be done during regularly scheduled annual maintenance without the need for extended down time.

How to Use

 

ACF-50 is 95% product, hence virtually no propellant. Keep the tin in a warm environment, shake very well before use and remember a little ACF-50 goes a long way, so keep a rag handy to soak up any excess - then use the rag to help spread the product. ACF-50 has strong capillary action so will creep into all the areas that moisture can, 'actively' pushing out moisture and replacing it with protection. Go cautiously when applying to callipers to ENSURE YOU KEEP IT OFF THE BRAKES. Use ACF-50 anywhere, except the brakes, on your bike including the engine and exhaust (will smoke on first start and burn off down pipes but still slows down corrosion process).

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i looked at a post about oil change in the same forum

http://forum.teamshelby.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=25027

5th 10th photos

it seems it has some of that white stuff on it not as bad as mine but that is a car in florida with 787 miles on it 5 weeks old.

BTW i envy him for his garage and lift.

 

That's my car you are referring to and I too was shocked to see the aluminum the first time I opened the hood. Then when I did the oil change, I noticed it on the underside aluminum also. I'm going to try some of the recommended products and see if it helps. Unless the transporter ran through lots of heavily salted roads while transporting it from MI to FL, I don't understand how salt could have caused this. :banghead:

 

Oh, thanks for the compliments on the garage. I am very fortunate to have had the previous owner of the house build the garage with the high ceilings. That and a very supportive wife, made the lift installation possible. She actually bought it for me as a Christmas gift two years ago! :happy feet:

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That's my car you are referring to and I too was shocked to see the aluminum the first time I opened the hood. Then when I did the oil change, I noticed it on the underside aluminum also. I'm going to try some of the recommended products and see if it helps. Unless the transporter ran through lots of heavily salted roads while transporting it from MI to FL, I don't understand how salt could have caused this. :banghead:

 

Oh, thanks for the compliments on the garage. I am very fortunate to have had the previous owner of the house build the garage with the high ceilings. That and a very supportive wife, made the lift installation possible. She actually bought it for me as a Christmas gift two years ago! :happy feet:

Where can I order a can of ACF-50?? I checked with my local motorcycle dealers and none had ever heard of it. I searched ebay but come up with model railroad cars only.

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That's my car you are referring to and I too was shocked to see the aluminum the first time I opened the hood. Then when I did the oil change, I noticed it on the underside aluminum also. I'm going to try some of the recommended products and see if it helps. Unless the transporter ran through lots of heavily salted roads while transporting it from MI to FL, I don't understand how salt could have caused this. :banghead:

 

Oh, thanks for the compliments on the garage. I am very fortunate to have had the previous owner of the house build the garage with the high ceilings. That and a very supportive wife, made the lift installation possible. She actually bought it for me as a Christmas gift two years ago! :happy feet:

 

 

I am interested in knowing the build date of your car and if the dealer has prepped your car upon arrival, for some reason i do not believe that it is salt issue, true i drove it in snow but the place where the white oxidized stuff exist has nothing to do with any salt on the road, besides gtcpa who responded to my post had his car built around the same time as mine, he never drove in salt nor in snow and transportation will not get salt inside the engine bay, so it could be using harsh engine cleaner by the dealer, or poorly finished batch of aluminum parts from factory been used, a lot of photos on this forum indicate that others do not have this problem.

 

BTW, that is a very nice present from wife, so nice of her to think that way...YOU ARE ONE LUCKY MAN FOR SURE.

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