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Hood Scoop Saga...continued


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Just picked up my car.The dealer did a great job it look better than when i bought it.The body shop said the scoop was bigger and the old scoop was put on to tight and had been squeezed from side to side.The new one looks more round on top can't tell it is any bigger.You would never know my stripes/scoop has been replaced. :happy feet:

 

Very cool! I hope the saga is over for you!

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Just picked up my car.The dealer did a great job it look better than when i bought it.The body shop said the scoop was bigger and the old scoop was put on to tight and had been squeezed from side to side.The new one looks more round on top can't tell it is any bigger.You would never know my stripes/scoop has been replaced. :happy feet:

 

That's great news, and I hope you can tell us the same thing 6 or 8 months from now. Hopefully yours is fixed for good.

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There is probably no one that has bad mouthed these scoops as much as i have. If you have trouble with your scoop then just wait for the 'final fix' that should be coming out shortly. i've had 4 scoops on my car and i think that was why i was so frustrated that Shelby couldn't get it right. i believe they have finally gotten the message because they have replaced a lot of scoops and this has been very expensive for them. hope you enjoy your car because they are a lot of fun and a attention getter.

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Wow - 29 pages and counting. Almost as long as SexyStang's Profile View thread...well not really but still a lengthy discussion. :)

 

I concur with Steve's assessment. I look forward to the SAI final fix and hope that it is heat resistant and includes an option to also make the scoop functional as a heat release like the original GT 350 hood scoop and Chip Beck's innovative solution. It is a mean looking hood scoop but only good for visual aesthetics being non-functional. When I proposed getting the GT-H hood as a solution my wife quickly demanded that I keep the current hood because she loves the look of the Cobra hood scoop.

 

Cheers

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I THINK THE PROBLEM IS WHAT TO DO WITH THE 25 RIVET HOLES. I PERSONALLY LIKE THE FACTORY HOOD VS THE CS6,SO I WOULD LIKE TO HOPE THAT WE GET NEW HOODS. IT WILL ONLY BE A MATTER OF TIME B4 PAINT WILL START TO OXYDIZE AND BUBBLE LIKE THE HOOD PINS ARE.THE BEST FIX TO ME IS A NEW HOOD..

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I concur with Steve's assessment. I look forward to the SAI final fix and hope that it is heat resistant and includes an option to also make the scoop functional as a heat release like the original GT 350 hood scoop and Chip Beck's innovative solution. It is a mean looking hood scoop but only good for visual aesthetics being non-functional. When I proposed getting the GT-H hood as a solution my wife quickly demanded that I keep the current hood because she loves the look of the Cobra hood scoop. Cheers

 

08SGT1977,

 

Here is a photo I took last Saturday of the bottom of a genuine 1966 GT350. There is no insulation attached to the bottom of the hood and, as you say, its scoop is functional but not hooked up to the air cleaner. It appears to function as a heat extractor or possibly it feeds cold air to the area around the air cleaner, or maybe it doesn't do anything. But I like the original 1966 GT350 under hood look so I took the insulation off the bottom of my hood and painted the underside of my functional scoop white. Now I believe it is as similar to a 1966 GT350 hood as one might be able to achieve. I love the way it looks.

 

Chip

 

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Very clean install, looks great, Chip! But, I have my reservations on the "functional" option.

 

Don't mean to sound negative here, but if y'all opt for functional, you may be inviting (and nursing) other problems.

 

Gents...If you select functional, remember that this is a scoop...A real scoop in the true meaning of the word. It will scoop out all the airborne debris flying in your air path and push that into your engine bay. This means everything airborne and my first concern would be getting caught in the rain (Yes, I will drive my SGT in the rain, and I have met about 100 other Mustang enthusiasts at ShelbyFest '08 in Hermann MO. who feel likewise).

 

Dumping rainwater on a hot aluminum engine will not be healthy for the engine. Also consider the effect of inducted moisture on your firewall mounted wiring harnesses? Those little pieces of factory tape sealing the harness are not waterproof.

 

Rain aside, if you are "engine bay anal", you just got a new full time job cleaning up the road dust, dirt, bugs, even trash your functional scoop scoops up. Anyone remember the "mailbox" scoop from AMC? That didn't last long (but neither did AMC).

 

Just look at your windshield after a road trip and imagine all that crap cooked on your cam covers, upper intake, headers, and strut tower brace? Y'all in Florida...How about those "love bugs"? Things get so bad down there, folks add window screens to their front girlles!

 

Right now here in Chicago, we are in our yearly "cottonwood" season, and ambient air is fully congested with our "summer snow". It's a PITA keeping this stuff off and out of any vehicle. It collects and clogs almost everything, even my home HVAC condensor has to be rinsed clean with with a garden hose, or, my HVAC shuts down. Likewise LuLu's radiator, or, LuLu overheats. Hell, you can't have a decent conversation with a neighbor without catching one in your mouth! Ahhh...I suppose every regional climate has it's own complications, eh? Just think about your local climate?

 

Keying off the crude (but effective) "tear drop" induction scoops of the mid '60s, "The General" learned something about this scoop stuff and developed "cowl induction". To this day, it's the single and only (IMHO) effective cold air system which boosts performance without causing additional complications.

 

I imagine myself sitting at the SGT design table, and I think Carrol Shelby understood this. If the SGT is indeed a tribute to the '66 GT 350, someone at that table understood that some things have to change because of lessons learned over the years. Thus, no functional scoop, but what we have in the new SGT looks sweet, and pays tribute.

 

Scooping up ambient air scoops up all that contaminates it and none of this "function" will reach back to benefit the SGT induction path. If y'all can tolerate the possible side-effects for style, go for it. Just be aware of what an open scoop will deliver to your engine bay. That said, the hood scoop fix Chip Beck has pioneered is awesome. Thanks, Chip!

 

Just my .02C, drive on, gents.

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I have to agree with Mac's comments; while a functional hood scoop has a certain attraction and makes sense for certain vehicles (i.e., race cars and some old carbureted muscele cars), it doesn't make practical sense in our application unless its ducted to the air filter w/ some means of preventing water ingestion. Beyond that, the system we have is probably as good as it gets for our cars. I think some heat extracting vents (such as GT500 vents) are a plus also.

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Nice work Chip and beautiful cars. The functional scoop looks great.

 

I think I would like to have a screen, shaped and patterned much like the current block, allowing air to get through but at the same time preventing small birds, insects and moisture from going in to the engine compartment. I wonder if there is a screen technology available today that would allow air in and out (allowing the heat to escape), prevent moisture and rain from entering, and be heat resistant like the scoop. Now that would be nice.

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Nice work Chip and beautiful cars. The functional scoop looks great.

 

I think I would like to have a screen, shaped and patterned much like the current block, allowing air to get through but at the same time preventing small birds, insects and moisture from going in to the engine compartment. I wonder if there is a screen technology available today that would allow air in and out (allowing the heat to escape), prevent moisture and rain from entering, and be heat resistant like the scoop. Now that would be nice.

 

Gentlemen,

 

A screen, or the black factory plastic block off plate, or nothing at all like the original ‘66 GT350 can be accommodated. But I believe, unless you use your Mustang in an area loaded with June bugs, or drive behind a lot of other cars on gravel roads, the screen is probably unnecessary. I have been caught out in the rain on two occasions in my aluminum bodied 427 S/C Cobra. Very little water entered the open hood scoop but quite a bit did enter the passenger compartment and me as I had no top for the car!! The completely exposed and unshielded Lucas electrics on the firewall of a Cobra make the plastic encased and taped up electrics under the hood of our Mustangs look like they're in a bank vault by comparison. I have been to many Cobra events and have talked to hundreds of Cobra owners. 95% of us have completely open scoops on our Cobras almost exactly like the one on my Shelby GT today. None of us have experienced the phenomenon of our hood scoops sucking up everything in our cars path and forcing debris into our engine compartments and causing damage to our engines by dumping cold rainwater on them. And I have never met a group of individuals more anal about their car engines than Cobra owners. (My Cobra engine, sitting directly underneath an open scoop, is pictured below) But heck, maybe I'm just unaware, so I put in a call yesterday to Gordon Levy who is one of the best-known Cobra mechanics in the nation (he rebuilt and maintained Dick Smith's famous #198 427 red competition Cobra) and over the last 20 years has worked on thousands of Cobras (mostly replicas but several genuine CSX cars as well) with open hood scoops. He told me that he is not aware of, has never seen, nor has he ever heard of an instance where this has been a problem. The closest thing to that I've seen he told me, is that occasionally on a track day where cars are following each other closely, at the end of the day one might find a few rubber marbles (from track tires) or a pebble or 2 in the turkey pan of someone's Cobra. These items did no damage and were simply tossed out. Small debris like dust tend to stay in the car’s airflow slipstream which passes above the top of a Cobras hood scoop as it is center mounted and flush to the hood just like our Shelby GT's. Next I put in a call to Shelby automobiles in Las Vegas and spoke to Tony who has been with them building Cobras with open hood scoops for almost a decade. He told me that in the nine years he has been with them producing Cobras they have never had one single complaint about the open scoops on the cars Shelby produces ingesting debris or water that caused a problem nor have they ever had an engine damaged in any way from anything that came through their cars open hood scoops. Ditto when I spoke to my local Superformance Cobra dealer.

 

At Shelby Automobiles, every car they are currently building, Super Snakes, GT500KRs, and CSX Cobras have functional hood scoops, but, because of its location, an open hood scoop on our Shelby GTs would act more like a heat and air extractor than an air intake.

 

I have learned from Mac’s posts and it's always interesting to hear what he has to say. The majority of Mac's concerns sound plausible and he does us all a service by raising them. But 40 years of experience with, and wind tunnel tests of, these open scoops should put any concerns to rest. It helps to understand the surface vehicle aerodynamics involved, the thermodynamics involved, and Shelby's reasoning for making the Shelby GT (&H) the ONLY vehicle they produce at Shelby Automobiles that does not have a functional hood scoop.

 

I'll keep this as brief as possible but this is still probably going to be a fairly lengthy post. I use the term “functional” only to describe it as an “open scoop” if that is how the owner chooses to install it. But I have made it clear from the beginning of this thread, that because of its location, this hood scoop will not suck in air, contaminated or clean, and anything that does enter it must be heavy enough and must have been hurled with enough velocity by wind, or the car in front of you, or flying under its own power like a big June bug, to push it through the slipstream several inches above the top of the Shelby GT hood scoop. When in motion, the air pressure under our hoods is greater than the air pressure above the hood at the location of the scoop opening. The reasons for this, although not obvious, are not particularly hard to understand. But it does take a while to explain it.

 

In 1965 when Shelby built the first GT350 Mustang, he didn't have a wind tunnel and very little was known at that time about surface vehicle aerodynamics. Shelby reasoned that a scoop placed in the middle of the hood little more than 1 inch high and facing forward would literally scoop air into the engine compartment as it flowed over the top of the hood at high vehicle speeds (wind tunnel testing 2 years later showed he guessed wrong so he moved the scoops to the front of the hood in 1968). He did not seal that hood scoop to the top of the air cleaner but reasoned that the cooler air he believed would be scooped in might help performance. Shelby stayed with this center mounted forward facing scoop design from 1965 through 1967. In 1967 the Pontiac Firebird was introduced and offered with two forward facing hood scoops mounted in the center of the hood that WERE sealed to the top of the air cleaner in an attempt to increase manifold pressure at high vehicle speeds. Wind tunnel testing at speeds from 30 to 90 mph indicated that the effect of these functional scoops sealed to the top of the air cleaner was a decrease in manifold pressure instead of the expected increase. What was going on here? When a stream of smoke was viewed passing over the top of the car in the wind tunnel the answer became obvious. The center of a car hood is a low pressure area with turbulent air that often flows toward the front of the car at the hood surface. Because the air pressure under the hood, created by the large amount of air flowing through the huge radiator opening, is higher than the air pressure above the hood but below the slipstream that flows above the “center of a forward moving hood”, the center mounted forward facing scoops were actually sucking air out creating a partial vacuum instead of the desired higher pressure. Further wind tunnel testing revealed that the only area of an automobile hood where favorable air speed, pressure, and velocity, occurred (the technical term here is laminar flow) was from the leading edge of the hood to approximately 14 inches behind the leading edge of the hood. These aerodynamic discoverys resulted in a Shelby moving the hood scoops of GT350s and GT500s to the leading edge of the hood in 1968. In 1969 the first Trans Am had hood scoops on the leading edge of the hood as well, and the Camaro went to cowl induction at the rear of the hood. Even today, in order to make a modern Mustang hood scoop functional, Shelby has to place to scoop openings at the forward edge of the hood in this high pressure area in the front 12 inches of the hood. (Photo below) At the area of the hood behind this point the airflow detaches from the hood and flows four to 5 inches above it at high velocity and in a straight rearward direction until it smacks into the windshield about 4 inches above the windshield hood junction. Some of the air in the area beneath the main flow at the hood/windshield junction / swirls downward with the bottom of the eddy traveling toward the front of the car at fairly high speed and moderate pressure making the “cowl induction” that Mac described so efficient. I agree with Mac that in addition to cowl induction being efficient, its design prevents pebbles or large bugs from getting into it because although air can turn 180° quickly and easily, a pebble or large bug can not.

 

The air beneath the main flow above the center of the hood also swirls downward in a turbulent manner at very low speed and low pressure, most often toward the front of the car at the surface of the hood. This is the area where the Shelby GT hood scoop is located and the reason why it is totally ineffective in drawing air (or debris) into the engine compartment. It is more of an extractor than a scoop and would be more effective in this location flush mounted to the hood if it were turned rearword like the hood scoops of 1970 to 1979 Firebird Trans Ams. Most rain, dust, and small insects, are forced into the main air flow 4 inches above the Shelby GT hood scoop and they pass well over the top of it. The picture below, taken in Ford Motor Company's wind tunnel and provided by SVT clearly shows what I've just said. Air striking the front of the hood of our Mustangs flows along the surface of the hood for about 12 inches (laminar flow) at which point it detaches and flows four to 5 inches above the hood until it hits the windshield about one third of the way up where it reestablishes attached high pressure laminar flow which continues until the airflow detaches again about a foot behind the top of the windshield along the roof and does not reattach at any further point. Above the trunk of our cars the primary airflow is about 10 inches from the top of the trunk. All airflow below that is turbulent and low pressure. These surface vehicle aerodynamics are the reason that normally aspirated NHRA Pro Stock drag racers place their center hood mounted Scoops at least 4 inches above the surface of the hood (see photo below) and that Ford Racings FR500 Mustang requires a rear spoiler that is mounted 14 inches above the height of the trunk. Lifting the hood scoop and spoiler up high enough in these two examples places them into high-pressure and/or high velocity air so they can work as intended.

 

I've said many times that I am not an automobile expert, I just read a lot and I know some of the best automotive engineers in the business. But as regards dumping cold rainwater on a hot aluminum engine, here I have considerable experience. The small trickle of water that would make it through even an efficient automobile hood scoop would in no way damage the engine. Let me give you a few examples. The Good Guys car show here in Scottsdale every year showcases hundreds of hot rods that drive all over our town for the entire week. Many of them have no hood or cowling at all and are running aluminum engines that are completely exposed to the elements. They drive around in our occasional downpours with no concern for the health of their engines. I have driven my Jeep Rubicon across rivers completely submerging the bottom two thirds of its engine in the ice cold water of the river with no ill effect. Finally, the engine in my Glasair III aircraft has aluminum cylinders and an all aluminum case. On several occasions I have descended out of high altitudes and at maximum power settings. In these conditions my cylinder head temperatures read 425° and my exhaust gas temperatures are 1400°. I have flown into driving rain storms where the rain is just above freezing slamming massive amounts of ice cold water through the very efficient cowling scoop directly into the sides of the front two cylinders. Lycoming engine testing has shown that in such conditions, as the first raindrops hit the red hot cylinders they do cool those cylinders more effectively than air would but that even a heavy spray of water on the cylinders of a running engine cools them gradually enough to avoid any damage. A spray of water on an operating engine does not damage it akin to hurling a red hot non-operating engine block into a huge tank of ice cold water, which might damage it. At the Reno air races every year spectators can see a stream of water vapor behind the unlimited gold racers as during the course of one race over 200 gallons of cold water is sprayed directly over the cylinders and the oil radiators to help cool these engines that are running supercharger boost pressures 4 times what they were designed to handle.

 

Next, the windshield of our Mustangs is approximately 1640 square inches. Over 1000 square inches of that area is in high pressure laminar flow. The opening of our hood scoops is approximately 16 square inches, all of it in a low pressure, turbulent, non-laminar flow area. During a drive, the debris passing through this very inefficient open scoop would not be comparable to the debris on your windshield that is over 100 times the size of the scoop opening. Look at the picture of my Cobra below, it is Kirkham # KMP304, the scoop is completely open. Next is a picture of the engine and my Kirkham. It is true I don't drive the car all that much and unless I get caught out I do not drive it in the rain but the engine as you see it here has been driven with an open scoop over 2000 miles and almost 12 months since the last time that engine was detailed. My engine compartment is not packed with debris and the rainwater that has come through that scoop did not make it to the feeble Lucas electrics on the firewall nor did it damage my all aluminum Shelby American FE engine #CSX460.

 

Some of what Mac said is right on, a big love bug or beetle would have more than enough mass, like a race tire rubber marble or small stone, to blow right through the slipstream above the scoop and enter it. But even if it did, it wouldn't hurt anything.

 

Our cars already have a functional air cleaner scoop. The opening for our Ford Racing air filters is in the grill of our cars in a very high pressure area. It is far more efficient at pushing cold air into the area around the air filter than would be the stock hood mounted scoop ducted back to that same air cleaner. How long has it been since you've cleaned the aluminum area around your air cleaner? How much debris is in there? Is it filthy and packed with stuff? All of the contaminants and debris that are currently driven through your very efficient grille mounted air cleaner scoop that are not sucked through your air filter flow directly into your engine compartment now. The amount of debris driven into your engine compartment by your stock grille mounted air filter scoop, however much you have, is greater than the amount that will enter your engine compartment if you choose to open the scoop on your hood.

 

The bottom line is, screen, or plug, your hood scoop if you like, or don't use an open scoop at all because, as I have stated from the beginning of these threads, opening the scoop will not increase the performance of your car. Or follow Veronica’s advice and just leave the damn thing alone!! I just think it looks cool. And it does provide room for a modified strut tower brace that Heath and I are building that will clear the top of my now ordered Ford Racing Whipple Supercharger. Mac, I appreciate your positive comment on how the installation looks, I agree with some of your comments, and disagree with some. I'm just laying out this information as best I understand it. You and I will hook up soon enough, and when we do, the drinks are on me. You sound like an old Marine as am I, and if you're not, you should have been. Semper Fi.

 

Chip

 

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About 1000 originals and 40,000 Cobra replicas can't all be wrong. Here's a photo of my Kirkham Cobra #KMP304 with a pretty clean engine after 2000 miles of driving with an open scoop!

 

Chip

 

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Could it be that SGT drivers may be driving in certain weather and dust / dirt conditions that the 2000 miles of your Cobra was not exposed to?

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About 1000 originals and 40,000 Cobra replicas can't all be wrong. Here's a photo of my Kirkham Cobra #KMP304 with a pretty clean engine after 2000 miles of driving with an open scoop!

 

Chip

 

It's like explaining why leaving the tail gate of a pick down decreases milage .......................parasitic drag

 

How do I order my scoop from you guys?? I have sent e-mails to Heath , but ....no reply?

 

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Could it be that SGT drivers may be driving in certain weather and dust / dirt conditions that the 2000 miles of your Cobra was not exposed to?

 

ilmor,

 

Absolutely. I try not to drive my fun cars in inclement weather. I drive a Ford Expedition to work everyday. I treat the Shelby GT just like I treat the Kirkham. Before I modified the hood however, I got stuck in one of our famous Arizona dust storms driving my Shelby GT home from work. When I got home the under hood area was trashed. There was dust and dirt everywhere. The air flowing through the radiator and up through the gaps in the bottom of the engine compartment allowed all the dusty air to completely coat everything under my hood. I don't see how it could have been worse if the hood scoop was open. I don't know. But it couldn't have been much worse. I hosed it down using the spot free setting on a local hand wand car wash. Once a year I have all my cars professionally detailed. If I used it for a daily driver, I would leave my Shelby GT stock. I treat it like a baby and, in a way, it is a more special car than the Kirkham. The Kirkham is a copy, an imposter if you will. The Shelby GT is the real thing. Converted in a facility still controlled by the man himself. I love that little white car.

 

Chip

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ilmor,

 

Absolutely. I try not to drive my fun cars in inclement weather. I drive a Ford Expedition to work everyday. I treat the Shelby GT just like I treat the Kirkham. Before I modified the hood however, I got stuck in one of our famous Arizona dust storms driving my Shelby GT home from work. When I got home the under hood area was trashed. There was dust and dirt everywhere. The air flowing through the radiator and up through the gaps in the bottom of the engine compartment allowed all the dusty air to completely coat everything under my hood. I don't see how it could have been worse if the hood scoop was open. I don't know. But it couldn't have been much worse. I hosed it down using the spot free setting on a local hand wand car wash. Once a year I have all my cars professionally detailed. If I used it for a daily driver, I would leave my Shelby GT stock. I treat it like a baby and, in a way, it is a more special car than the Kirkham. The Kirkham is a copy, an imposter if you will. The Shelby GT is the real thing. Converted in a facility still controlled by the man himself. I love that little white car.

 

Chip

 

After more than a year now, mine is still bone-stock. As gas and other prices rise the more likely it is to remain that way!! Mine is currently being detailed by "ilmor".

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well just got mine back last week. Scoop number three. Looked great at first but now the stripes are wrinkling at the rear of the scoop. Seems to me that as the scoop and hood expands and cools it pulling on the stripes and is causing this issue. A final fix is needed as this is getting old.

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Well I was talking to a fellow mustang man last night and he came up with an idea for the wrinkles in the stripes. So I took it by the dealer and showed them the new wrinkles so that they were aware of the problem before hand and could not say I screwed them up. Anyway we parked the car in the sun and let the sun heat up the stripes and scoop. Not hard today as it was 95 out. Once the hood was nice and hot we took a plastic window squezze (who cares if its spelled right) and began slowly pushing the stripe smooth going under the scoop. Worked like a charm. The wrinkles are gone or at least pushed under the scoop. Any way looks 100 percent better and you can not tell that they were ever there.

All we have to do now is wait and see if the wrinkles show back up as the car gets driven. Keep your fingers crossed.

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About 1000 originals and 40,000 Cobra replicas can't all be wrong. Here's a photo of my Kirkham Cobra #KMP304 with a pretty clean engine after 2000 miles of driving with an open scoop!

 

Chip

 

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Chip you must have some HUGE coin to have that kind of toy store! So tell me, what do you do for a living, I don't need a name just the industry? If you choose not to give it, that's OK too. Nice cars though-

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Well I was talking to a fellow mustang man last night and he came up with an idea for the wrinkles in the stripes. So I took it by the dealer and showed them the new wrinkles so that they were aware of the problem before hand and could not say I screwed them up. Anyway we parked the car in the sun and let the sun heat up the stripes and scoop. Not hard today as it was 95 out. Once the hood was nice and hot we took a plastic window squezze (who cares if its spelled right) and began slowly pushing the stripe smooth going under the scoop. Worked like a charm. The wrinkles are gone or at least pushed under the scoop. Any way looks 100 percent better and you can not tell that they were ever there.

All we have to do now is wait and see if the wrinkles show back up as the car gets driven. Keep your fingers crossed.

 

Great work 1badsgt. Thanks for sharing the quick and safe fix. Keep us posted if it works out for the long run.

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Just an FYI,The GT500 open scoops like to drain rain water on the front of the motor,Causing some rust on the accessories.I realize that the extractors aren't really scoops as in the design is opposite of a scoop and they are face up with no drain provision and flow in reverse of a scoop.Figured I would throw that out there for anyone contemplating a heat extractor style hood.I also read the write up on the functional or so thought SGT design.Good info indeed!

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Just an FYI,The GT500 open scoops like to drain rain water on the front of the motor, causing some rust on the accessories. I realize that the extractors aren't really scoops as the design is opposite of a scoop and they are face up with no drain provision and flow in reverse of a scoop. Figured I would throw that out there for anyone contemplating a heat extractor style hood. I also read the write up on the functional or so thought SGT design. Good info indeed!

 

07SHELBY GT,

 

The Ford Motor Company has recognized the problem of water running into the GT500 engine compartment when the car is stationary and sitting outside in the rain through those uncovered air extractors in the hood. When the car is in motion enough air flows out of those vents to keep any significant volume of water from entering. But when sitting in a parking lot and stationary there is nothing to prevent rainwater from falling through them. The new GT500KR hood has its' air extractor vents moved farther aft on the hood and they do incorporate a water drainage system to prevent this same problem while the KR is stationary. The downward slope of the SGT hood in the area of the hood scoop opening would also prevent water from entering an open SGT scoop while the car is stationary. Those GT500 hood air extractors are the result of comprehensive wind tunnel testing and they draw a significant amount of air out of the engine compartment at speed. Their placement about 24 inches from the leading edge of the hood has them well aft of the point where airflow detaches from the hood and the partial vacuum created at that location makes them quite effective.

 

Chip

 

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Chip you must have some HUGE coin to have that kind of toy store! So tell me, what do you do for a living, I don't need a name just the industry? If you choose not to give it, that's OK too. Nice cars though-

 

SWEDEMAN,

 

For 25 years I was the general manager of a Pontiac-GMC truck dealership. The last 15 of those years I was the owner/dealer principal as well. I sold out and retired in 1998 but after a few months I got bored. So I started building service stations/convenience store/carwashs. I built a total of three, sold two of them and kept the best one. Today I am a Chevron dealer in Phoenix, Arizona. For a retailer like me, the gasoline business is awful right now. High prices have driven both our profit margins and volume down significantly. This is a great time to own an oilfield, but a very difficult time to be a gasoline or automobile dealer. And if we don't wake up as a nation and start drilling for our own oil in our own country, it's only going to get worse. The only way to decrease the price is to increase the supply.

 

Chip

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