Newbie here: 87 glhs 404

[glhs404]

Hey I'm new on the boards. I am 19 years old and the owner of 1987 GLHS #404 with 25,000 miles. Its almost Bone stock, only modification being black rims that came with the car when I got it. I received this car as a graduation present from my father who also owns an 87 glhs. He bought it via autotrader from a man in Texas. From my understanding the car sat outside in Louisiana for about 12 years without being driven (hence the low mileage). Unfortunatley in this period of time different parts of the engine developed rust and the paint job corroded a little bit. The interior is in nearly perfect condition though.Once the car was delivered we had to have all of the struts and shocks replaced as well as new engine mounts. I then ran it at the High School Drags at Bandemire Speedway in Colorado. Being a first time racer I bogged the launch and ran an atrocious time of 17.1. I still beat my opponent (a Galaxy with a big block V-8). The second run I once again bogged the launch but ran a 16.7, once again smoking my opponent (a V-6 mustang). For elimnations I decided to dial in at 16.5. I had a great launch and ran a 15.5 Destroying my dial-in time. I couldn't take another run because I had eliminated myself, but I came away from it satisfied with my last run. Since then I've had some problems with the grounding wire to the battery and have recently had some issues with the logic module. I just ordered a Mopar stage 2 performance logic module and am having it put in in a few days. Anyways, I thought I would share the story of my GLHS and look forward to posting!

 

Ive Attached Pics from the High School Drags.

 

 

Edit: Im the one on the left in the pic where 3 people are sitting in front of the car. Im not sure why I look so pissed.

[shelbymotorsports]

Welcome aboard GLHS404

 

Going 15.5 in a 20 year old stock GLHS is a very respectable time. The computer upgrade will remove the tranny saving torque reducing step that the stock computer has built in so you'll be in the 14's with this MP upgrade. Be careful though as your 525 tranny was never designed for the torque that the GLHS puts out and will self destruct sooner or later. That's just part of being an 'S' car owner.

 

Keep us updated with your mods and feel free to ask questions.

 

Steve

[glhs404]

Thank you! I forgot to mention the tire modification. When I received the car the tires had weather cracking and needed to be replaced. I went to the tire shop and one of the guys there had an Omni GLH and recommended a set of BF Goodrich g-force size 205/55ZR15 88W. So now I'm riding on four of em and couldn't be more happy

[GLHS0136]

Thank you! I forgot to mention the tire modification. When I received the car the tires had weather cracking and needed to be replaced. I went to the tire shop and one of the guys there had an Omni GLH and recommended a set of BF Goodrich g-force size 205/55ZR15 88W. So now I'm riding on four of em and couldn't be more happy

Great Ride! Enjoy :happy feet: Some new paint and original wheels and it should be like new. The decals are available from Positive Impressions, but the wheels are a bit hard to get.

 

I have the BFG G-Force KD tires on my Mustang. I love 'em.

[glhs404]

Great Ride! Enjoy :happy feet: Some new paint and original wheels and it should be like new. The decals are available from Positive Impressions, but the wheels are a bit hard to get.

 

I have the BFG G-Froce KD tires on my Mustang. I love 'em.

 

Yea I'm gonna get it painted as soon as I can save the money (tough job for a broke college student). The wheels I'm not as concerned about. The traditionalist in me despised them when I first saw it but they've kinda grown on me. Im pretty sure thats the same place my dad got the decals for his GLHS. How much would the paint job and the decals cost all together?

[GLHS0136]

Yea I'm gonna get it painted as soon as I can save the money (tough job for a broke college student). The wheels I'm not as concerned about. The traditionalist in me despised them when I first saw it but they've kinda grown on me. Im pretty sure thats the same place my dad got the decals for his GLHS. How much would the paint job and the decals cost all together?

You get what you pay for on a paint job. A cheap job with over spray everywhere from Maaco can run as cheap as $199 but again is cheap and no body work. On the other end of the spectrum, it could be $10K. You pay for the labor really. Block sanding and all of prep work makes for a great finish. Decals from Positive impressions is only $169.00 http://www.unleashedbyshelby.com/ Maybe wait until you finish school and get a paycheck, because you don't want to slap a crappy paint job on a car like this and then have to remove it all again later for a good paint job.

[glhs404]

You get what you pay for on a paint job. A cheap job with over spray everywhere from Maaco can run as cheap as $199 but again is cheap and no body work. On the other end of the spectrum, it could be $10K. You pay for the labor really. Block sanding and all of prep work makes for a great finish. Decals from Positive impressions is only $169.00 http://www.unleashedbyshelby.com/ Maybe wait until you finish school and get a paycheck, because you don't want to slap a crappy paint job on a car like this and then have to remove it all again later for a good paint job.

 

Yea I definitely want to wait it out and get a proper paint job.

 

UPDATE: Just had the stage 2 logic module put in tonight, runs a lil better but still seems to be lagging. The guy who put it in said that there is a learning curve for it and should be fine after 100 miles. I trust his opinion, hes built some nice 13 second omni's.

[86glhs76]

Yea I definitely want to wait it out and get a proper paint job.

 

UPDATE: Just had the stage 2 logic module put in tonight, runs a lil better but still seems to be lagging. The guy who put it in said that there is a learning curve for it and should be fine after 100 miles. I trust his opinion, hes built some nice 13 second omni's.

 

They spike boost and go a lot faster during the learning curve. Chances are there is something wrong with it. What is your MPH? My stock GLHS type engine in my 86 Reliant wagon runs 14.3 @ 97 with an auto trans and a stage 2. If your lagging that could mean the timing belt is retarded, the timing is retarded or the exhaust is plugged. Have you checked the codes? If there are any fault codes the car will be having problems too. Just turning the key on and off 3 times and leaving the key in the on position blinks any fault codes through the power loss light. Actually any Dodge made after 84 doesn't require a scanner.

 

http://www.thedodgegarage.com/turbo_codes.html

 

Make sure the timing belt is right, and then set the timing at 14 with the water temp sensor unplugged. Then fix the exhaust and any other plugs. Stock the GLHS should run over 96 MPH through the traps, with the stage 2 you should be really close to 100 MPH. Be looking for a new trans and search the forums on how to add a 523 trans. You can run the cheap OBX posi and a SRT 4 short shifter. The 525 shatters like glass and the rod shifter gets in the way of 3" exhaust anyway

[GLHS0136]

They spike boost and go a lot faster during the learning curve. Chances are there is something wrong with it. What is your MPH? My stock GLHS type engine in my 86 Reliant wagon runs 14.3 @ 97 with an auto trans and a stage 2. If your lagging that could mean the timing belt is retarded, the timing is retarded or the exhaust is plugged. Have you checked the codes? If there are any fault codes the car will be having problems too. Just turning the key on and off 3 times and leaving the key in the on position blinks any fault codes through the power loss light. Actually any Dodge made after 84 doesn't require a scanner.

 

http://www.thedodgegarage.com/turbo_codes.html

 

Make sure the timing belt is right, and then set the timing at 14 with the water temp sensor unplugged. Then fix the exhaust and any other plugs. Stock the GLHS should run over 96 MPH through the traps, with the stage 2 you should be really close to 100 MPH. Be looking for a new trans and search the forums on how to add a 523 trans. You can run the cheap OBX posi and a SRT 4 short shifter. The 525 shatters like glass and the rod shifter gets in the way of 3" exhaust anyway

Does it lose what it has learned each time the battery is disconnected? Or after disconnected for a long period of time such as 6 months or a year?

[glhs404]

They spike boost and go a lot faster during the learning curve. Chances are there is something wrong with it. What is your MPH? My stock GLHS type engine in my 86 Reliant wagon runs 14.3 @ 97 with an auto trans and a stage 2. If your lagging that could mean the timing belt is retarded, the timing is retarded or the exhaust is plugged. Have you checked the codes? If there are any fault codes the car will be having problems too. Just turning the key on and off 3 times and leaving the key in the on position blinks any fault codes through the power loss light. Actually any Dodge made after 84 doesn't require a scanner.

 

http://www.thedodgegarage.com/turbo_codes.html

 

Make sure the timing belt is right, and then set the timing at 14 with the water temp sensor unplugged. Then fix the exhaust and any other plugs. Stock the GLHS should run over 96 MPH through the traps, with the stage 2 you should be really close to 100 MPH. Be looking for a new trans and search the forums on how to add a 523 trans. You can run the cheap OBX posi and a SRT 4 short shifter. The 525 shatters like glass and the rod shifter gets in the way of 3" exhaust anyway

 

I haven't run it at a track with the new stage 2 yet so I'm not sure exactly what its running right now. When it was running well with the old computer I ran 15.5 at about 90mph. (That was last May). I hate to sound like a total noob but what should I look for to know the timing belt is/isn't working and how do I adjust the timing? Also, how should I fix the exhaust if its plugged? Or if anything else is plugged for that matter.

[86glhs76]

Does it lose what it has learned each time the battery is disconnected? Or after disconnected for a long period of time such as 6 months or a year?

 

The computer must learn the boost curve and to learn the 02 closed loop curve. Then it is happy. But as it learns how to control the turbo it lets you get more boost. The Shelby / MP stage 2 has a 13 second overboost limit and flashes to 17 PSI. With a S60 on my car it flashed 21 and broke the side of a piston off. Then I drove to Vegas, got in the Mopar muscle mag dyno challenge and put down 214 WHP @ 4,400 RPM on 3 pistons and drove home. Normally I don't put 2,500 miles on them injured but I already paid to go and it takes more than a broken piston to stop a 2.2 lol.

 

As far as the best computers out there go, the MP / Shelby stage 2 is a great computer. The problem is no part throttle low RPM boost and a slow boost climb. So I like the FWDperformance.com stage 3 better for that reason. Today everyone just buys a 3 bar and 18 PSI though so I guess it doesn't matter lol. A set of +20 MP injectors, 88 TBI roller cam, my PT lash adjuster mod, FWDperformance stage 5 and a MSD 3 bar map. All the Shelbys should have at least this and a good exhaust. I went farther and have the trim cal, a programable computer with 4 boost settings and a control box that shows the sensor out put in real time. Then I can add gauges and adjust timing and fuel curves with it, but it's $450 DOH.

[86glhs76]

I haven't run it at a track with the new stage 2 yet so I'm not sure exactly what its running right now. When it was running well with the old computer I ran 15.5 at about 90mph. (That was last May). I hate to sound like a total noob but what should I look for to know the timing belt is/isn't working and how do I adjust the timing? Also, how should I fix the exhaust if its plugged? Or if anything else is plugged for that matter.

 

The exhaust is about 1 7/8" stock, really bad. I get my exhaust from Turbosunleashed.com, 3" rules but is costly. Consider at least a 2.5" mandrel system and a straight through muffler. If you want a cat they sell a high flow too. I don't run a cat because the cars pass without them and I have no morality issues if they pass.

 

The trap speed needs to be over 95 MPH stock. The timing on the cam is more difficult and you need to buy a book and find the marks.

 

http://www.thedodgegarage.com/timing_belt.html

 

so I would change a belt at this point too, then your good for at least 40,000 miles. I would also get a roller cam mentioned. The cam may not be working right, the sliders go flat. The oil today doesn't have ZP in it anymore and slider cams get chewed up. A junk yard 88 2.2 TBI car is a great place to get a cam and follower set. I run the Neon 16v DOHC MP lash adjusters in my 8v heads with a couple washers. Cheaper and last longer, not to mention allow real revs.

 

Next is distributer timing. Get a cheap timing light and remove your air box. The timing marks are in the square hole under the air box. Unplug the water temp sensor in the head, the fan should come on. Then time it for 12-14 before, 14 with a stage 2 MP computer. The wires are a down fall to the 2.2, along with the head gaskets. New plugs and wires are needed, I buy new wires every year period. MP gasket and bolts for the head from FWDperformance. This is needed to keep water out of the oil and give compression. Other than a 3 layer MLS everything else leaks. Torque the MP gasket and bolts to 85 ft lbs, do not torque stock bolts that far as they go to 70. Head gasket is a 2 hour swap, piece of cake. I spend a 1/2 hour on a cam swap. Timing belt is the longest at 3 hours, yes a head gasket takes less time. Remember a good running 2.2 has 2 HP per CID, a few good matinance items and they are bullet proof. Miss treat them and boom as they make way to much power for there size. Don't run a boost controller, they won't pull boost with detonation. Run a new computer for more boost. Better oil and fuel cleaners are required, don't run cheap gas.

 

Once you get deaper into working on them then look for more power. I run mid 13s easy with a GLHS with little done and they are reliable with great gas mileage. I drive my 86 with the old computer and engine like a robbed a bank with the car and got 28 MPG in town. Get a FWD computer and a wideband and you can trick the computer for 16:1 around town and get over 35 MPG. Most likely 40 MPG in a 87 GLHS and still be over 250 HP. But get some basics done and get it running right, just running right for a while may make you happy enough.

 

Rob

[86glhs76]

almost forgot since your drag racing. FWDs are not like Mustangs with live axles, they need some suspension work. The rebuild bushings are dirt cheap at about $30 for the sway bar and another $30 for the A arms which are needed. The front poly engine mount will keep your from wheel hop and breaking axles, or worse, the trans. then with the A arms done get it aligned right. RETARDS that run alignment shops are as smart as the muffler shop guys that think that 3" exhaust will slow a turbo car over 2.5". Don't listen to them. They set up the "computer alignment" for .5 positive camber which murders tires and 60 ft times. Setup the alignment for 0 toe and 1 degree negitive in the front. 1/16 toe in and .5 negitve in the back. Anything else hurts you, all out drag FWDs run toe out and up to 3 degrees negitve camber. So make sure the alignment is right, make them show you the slip. Your 60fts should be in the 2.2 range with cheap tires. 1.9s to 2.0s with drag radials. polybushings.com has all the poly for these cars and other goodies.

 

http://www.polybushings.com/pages/moparfrtmt1.html

[BadAssPerformance]

Nice looking ride!

 

Is that in Denver? If so, that's a good time at altitude!

[GLHS0136]

The computer must learn the boost curve and to learn the 02 closed loop curve. Then it is happy. But as it learns how to control the turbo it lets you get more boost. The Shelby / MP stage 2 has a 13 second overboost limit and flashes to 17 PSI. With a S60 on my car it flashed 21 and broke the side of a piston off. Then I drove to Vegas, got in the Mopar muscle mag dyno challenge and put down 214 WHP @ 4,400 RPM on 3 pistons and drove home. Normally I don't put 2,500 miles on them injured but I already paid to go and it takes more than a broken piston to stop a 2.2 lol.

 

As far as the best computers out there go, the MP / Shelby stage 2 is a great computer. The problem is no part throttle low RPM boost and a slow boost climb. So I like the FWDperformance.com stage 3 better for that reason. Today everyone just buys a 3 bar and 18 PSI though so I guess it doesn't matter lol. A set of +20 MP injectors, 88 TBI roller cam, my PT lash adjuster mod, FWDperformance stage 5 and a MSD 3 bar map. All the Shelbys should have at least this and a good exhaust. I went farther and have the trim cal, a programable computer with 4 boost settings and a control box that shows the sensor out put in real time. Then I can add gauges and adjust timing and fuel curves with it, but it's $450 DOH.

Lot's of great info. But does it do this each time it gets disconnected or disconnected for a long period? I'm assuming it would because I know that Caravan's had all of those tranny issues due to the learning computers. It wasn't the tranny but the computer. A dead battery or disconnected battery would reset the computer and sometimes the trannys were operating outside of the computer's controlling band and would cause the tranny to have overly hard shifts or overly soft shifts....

[CSX-VNT #414]

Welcome aboard! Your GLHS looks awesome with the CSS Lancer rims are they?

 

Have you discovered turbo-mopar.com?

[86glhs76]

Lot's of great info. But does it do this each time it gets disconnected or disconnected for a long period? I'm assuming it would because I know that Caravan's had all of those tranny issues due to the learning computers. It wasn't the tranny but the computer. A dead battery or disconnected battery would reset the computer and sometimes the trannys were operating outside of the computer's controlling band and would cause the tranny to have overly hard shifts or overly soft shifts....

 

The computer does it everytime you disconect the battery. Many drag racers disconect the battery between every run to get more boost out of the hole. As for the trans, the shelby trans if an auto is a A413 torqueflight and has as much computer control as a 727. So there is nothing to worry about. The later 8v 2.2s and 2.5s with a turbo, 91' and later had computer controled lock up. This is uneffected too by the computer leanring. As with the other systems they have a basic line the try to follow and use the sensors to hold the line. AF and so on. The trans will try and follow a line put down by pressure, if the sensors are bad you chew the trans and they don't shift right.

 

http://www.knizefamily.net/minimopar/

 

turbo-mopar forum is ugly because you have to listen to all the politcs there to try and find something. I rarely go there myself. However a sight like Russ's sight here is great. Everyone with an older Mopar or Shelby dodge should have this sight on there favorites. It tells you every fault code in detail. The Shelbys use a computer that doesn't "need" a scanner, they blink the fault codes right over the dash. Even a brand new Dodge mini van or truck tells you the faults right on the dash if there is any. Turn your key of and on 3 times and leave it on, your power loss or check engine light goes out and the codes start coming. A huge reason I am a Mopar fan, because I can work on my cars without expensive equipment. My dad called me the other day because his friends truck wasn't running right. So he checked the codes and didn't see anything happen, then he relized that Chevy doesn't do that

 

With d-cal and a romulator you can completely reprogram the factory Shelby Dodge computers. Fan controls, boost and fuel curves, anything in the box. With a romulator you can adjust the car to match any setup. Then either leave the romulator in or add a socket and burn a chip. I normally again buy them from FWDperfomance as they don't cost much custom. But I thought I would add a few details lol.

[CSX-VNT #414]

Are those CSS Shelby Lancer rims or aftermarket look alikes?

[GLHS0136]

The computer does it everytime you disconect the battery. Many drag racers disconect the battery between every run to get more boost out of the hole. As for the trans, the shelby trans if an auto is a A413 torqueflight and has as much computer control as a 727. So there is nothing to worry about. The later 8v 2.2s and 2.5s with a turbo, 91' and later had computer controled lock up. This is uneffected too by the computer leanring. As with the other systems they have a basic line the try to follow and use the sensors to hold the line. AF and so on. The trans will try and follow a line put down by pressure, if the sensors are bad you chew the trans and they don't shift right.

 

http://www.knizefamily.net/minimopar/

 

turbo-mopar forum is ugly because you have to listen to all the politcs there to try and find something. I rarely go there myself. However a sight like Russ's sight here is great. Everyone with an older Mopar or Shelby dodge should have this sight on there favorites. It tells you every fault code in detail. The Shelbys use a computer that doesn't "need" a scanner, they blink the fault codes right over the dash. Even a brand new Dodge mini van or truck tells you the faults right on the dash if there is any. Turn your key of and on 3 times and leave it on, your power loss or check engine light goes out and the codes start coming. A huge reason I am a Mopar fan, because I can work on my cars without expensive equipment. My dad called me the other day because his friends truck wasn't running right. So he checked the codes and didn't see anything happen, then he relized that Chevy doesn't do that

 

With d-cal and a romulator you can completely reprogram the factory Shelby Dodge computers. Fan controls, boost and fuel curves, anything in the box. With a romulator you can adjust the car to match any setup. Then either leave the romulator in or add a socket and burn a chip. I normally again buy them from FWDperfomance as they don't cost much custom. But I thought I would add a few details lol.

Thanks!

[BadAssPerformance]

http://www.knizefamily.net/minimopar/

 

turbo-mopar forum is ugly because you have to listen to all the politcs there to try and find something. I rarely go there myself. However a sight like Russ's sight here is great.

 

+1 Russ' MiniMopar site is awesome!

 

-1 about www.turbo-mopar.com 'politics' tho, there are less politics at TM than most forums I have been on, and they have an excellent Knowledge Center too http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/vbarticles.php

[86glhs76]

-1 about www.turbo-mopar.com 'politics' tho, there are less politics at TM than most forums I have been on, and they have an excellent Knowledge Center too http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/vbarticles.php

 

My self, I've been on the SDML since late 90s, 97? I have been on Teamomni since the beginning. I have visited and have been to many forums over the years and have spent lot of time on them. As of now I like Boostedmopar.com for the most friendly place. Turbododge.com has been very nice since TM started. Turbododge.com just has had by far the most use going back the longest distance. Everything that has been happening can be found on TD going back for years. Then there were a few people that really caused a lot of daily wars flaming people and pushing there stupid ideas. These people decided to form there own forum. This is a fact, and you can go to TD.com and find it all. You happen to get along with the people that run TM, which is fine. There are many good people that visit TM everyday, it is the people running TM that are the problem. I will say one positive thing about TM, you can find more vendors there for the Shelby Dodges. Turbododge.com is just to expensive for the "little guys". Turbosunleashed owns the exhaust market for the Shelby Dodges, I use much of there exhaust, something that puts them on the map. And you can be a vendor on TM for next to nothing, so finding everyone like TU is easy. I myself visit TM to look for some vendors. And since this thread is for some one new mentioning them may help.

 

Tylers cylinder heads. This guy ports the heads correctly and does a very nice job. He is tells the truth with his heads, he doesn't post crazy high flow numbers in CFM to make you think his heads are better. He describes the increase in % over stock. In the world of ported heads this is important because some flow benches flow 135 CFM for a stock intake port on a 782 and some flow nearly 160 CFM. Someone flowing 165 may have a better flowing head than some ones 190 CFM head because of the different flow benches. Tyler doesn't play this game. He is so low priced that even though I port heads and can do them right it isn't worth my own time! Last I checked a completely ported 782 from Tyler was $465 with the stuff I wanted, many rebuilt stock heads at machine shops are $400.

 

Turbos unleashed. They have exhaust for street cars, cast header and cast 3" swing valve. These are really nice on a street car, the header for running a bigger hybrid turbo and getting it out from behind the head. They also sell a mandrel bent exhaust that fits with hangers and so on. You can buy a complete 3" exhaust with the 3" donut and the hangers to put it on. For a street machine TU rules exhaust which is a big thing with Shelby Dodges. Like other vendors they have good prices on new turbos.

 

FWDperformance. Everyone likes a vendor and has there favorite that they trust, this is my favorite. A computer for nearly everything in the older Dodges / Shelbys. Shadow on TD.com is running a +1 ported head and a really built intake. Then has a ported exhaust manifold and a 57 trim turbo. 443 WHP and will be close to 500 WHP this summer. He runs the FWD stage 5 with 3 bar map and 72 lb injectors. Unlike other vendors it doesn't take a couple years to get a computer cal, couple months max. They also rule the top end. All the different spring and cam choices. There making custom cut cams to run PT lifters without washers. They came out with new billet cam cores for making new cams, not regrinds. They are more a race vendor for finding more custom parts. A true Tri Y turbo header, custom intakes like a lone wolf intake, and ported (but pricy) heads. They also sell a complete new coil over Koni set with Eibach springs.

 

Polybushings.com, a local club friend and a friend to all Shelby Dodges. He makes custom poly engine mounts and other bushings for the cars. Bushings and mounts that just wouldn't exist without him. My car ripped metal left and right without his mounts. I ripped the ears off the frame for the passenger side mount. Tore 3 holes in 3 K members and twisted 2 of them. I ripped and blew out the hole front core support splitting open all the spot welds. I even wrinkled the metal in the heater tray bending the nose of the car up. All this damage stopped with engine held in place by the poly and absorbing the shock. A built 2.2 rapes an Omni like a built 427 rapes an AC, poly engine mounts, or solid mounts are a need not a want.

 

FWDperformance can be found in this forum, the fastest FWD GLHS thread. Because the Shelby Dodges are a specialty you need to know where to shop. The Mustang guys shop where muscle car people shop, Summit Racing and Jegs. Where much can be bought from them it is a hunt. Then you may not get the right parts. FWD only sells parts for the Shelby dodges, they won't send you out a cam for a small block Chevy on accident. The specialty vendors take a little more time. TU spends months and some times years sending stuff out. There exhaust is a few months but worth the wait, there cals are not worth a few years sorry. Cindy at FWD is hyper like she runs on nitrous, if she has it in stock you'll get it fast lol. Some custom stuff is a wait though, normally a few months at the most. My whole car is bascially custom, but looks stock with the doors shut lol. I am excited, this spring and summer 3 different Shelby Dodge build ups are finishing. Then I'm going to stop messing with them and drive them, then work on my 70 Challenger

[RUFDRAFT]

Very Cool!

[johnl]

Hey, congrats on getting a TRULY great car. Your Dad has good judgment. Be slow and careful with the mods to your car. Stock is best. Yeah there are things that help that are conservative - such as the T2StageII calibration that you purchased. Going to a 2.5 inch downpipe from a later T2 car is a good idea too - why? because Mopar did it in the later T2 cars that came after your GLHS. Mopar never went to 3" and I wonder why. BTW, a 2.5" from the junk yard is cheaper too!

 

Too much of the stuff that you will read on the forums is oriented toward drag racing and as such is not appropriate for a street car. For example, your car will drive nicer with less vibration if you pass on the hard suspension bushings. Or, you are less likely to crack one of those very durable Mahle pistons if you leave the timing at stock. 14* is asking for trouble, especially with the T2StageII. Note that that calibration calls for 93 octane; can you buy 93 octane? I can't. I run 10*

 

Hang on to your wallet. Stock is best. There are very few of us that are better than Ma Mopar and Ol' Shel.

[86glhs76]

Too much of the stuff that you will read on the forums is oriented toward drag racing and as such is not appropriate for a street car. For example, your car will drive nicer with less vibration if you pass on the hard suspension bushings. Or, you are less likely to crack one of those very durable Mahle pistons if you leave the timing at stock. 14* is asking for trouble, especially with the T2StageII. Note that that calibration calls for 93 octane; can you buy 93 octane? I can't. I run 10*

 

Hang on to your wallet. Stock is best. There are very few of us that are better than Ma Mopar and Ol' Shel.

 

My car ran horrid coughing and spitting for a year with the stage 2, I couldn't find any problem with it. Then I advanced the timing to 14 and it ran super. All I did was the timing, not many other things at once. The idea came from FMs web sight as they mention to run 14. Will running 14 hurt pistons? I drove the car daily for a few years like I stole it and regularly drag raced it. No damage, but I also was running +20s most of the time. The GLHS stage 2 MP cal is also not made for the 34.5 lb injectors, it is made for the 32 lb GLHS injectors. Converting to the regular T2 or 2.5 injectors is smart with a Stage 2.

[GLHS0136]

My car ran horrid coughing and spitting for a year with the stage 2, I couldn't find any problem with it. Then I advanced the timing to 14 and it ran super. All I did was the timing, not many other things at once. The idea came from FMs web sight as they mention to run 14. Will running 14 hurt pistons? I drove the car daily for a few years like I stole it and regularly drag raced it. No damage, but I also was running +20s most of the time. The GLHS stage 2 MP cal is also not made for the 34.5 lb injectors, it is made for the 32 lb GLHS injectors. Converting to the regular T2 or 2.5 injectors is smart with a Stage 2.

I think advancing the timing too far can cause pre-detonation which damaged pistons. Higher octane lowers that risk.

[86glhs76]

I think advancing the timing too far can cause pre-detonation which damaged pistons. Higher octane lowers that risk.

 

The Shelby Dodges have problems with heat soke with the stock intercoolers

 

at traffic lights when it is 100 degrees out the fan is going on the engine. The hot air blows backward through the intercooler getting it hot. The engine compartment is also pressurized. So the stock intercooler has problems, the computer basically has to give the engine intercooler levels of boost but without the colder air. Every time I have damaged an engine was from a heat soke issue. At the track I soke the IC with water and the fins trap some of the water between passes. This makes for safe consistant runs. Running the AC also cooks the IC as well... I just went with a water to air and went around the issue.

[glhs87]

The 525 shatters like glass and the rod shifter gets in the way of 3" exhaust anyway

 

Yes, 525 trannies are fragile but back in the day when my SC was built (93) - i had all the 525 stay alive parts that were available: Case Cradle, chrome moly end plate and topped it of with a LSD. As for the shifter i had the hiem link set up from LRE (same goes for the gridle and end plate) installed and it fits with a 3 inch exhaust. Just a note to say, anything is possible with these cars!

[86glhs76]

Yes, 525 trannies are fragile but back in the day when my SC was built (93) - i had all the 525 stay alive parts that were available: Case Cradle, chrome moly end plate and topped it of with a LSD. As for the shifter i had the hiem link set up from LRE (same goes for the gridle and end plate) installed and it fits with a 3 inch exhaust. Just a note to say, anything is possible with these cars!

 

The big one would be a new diff for the 525. I stretched the MP soft race gears 1/2" on the shaft and broke it in 3 pieces. It fell between the pinion and the ring and split the case in half. Riot.

[86glhs76]

Yes, 525 trannies are fragile but back in the day when my SC was built (93) - i had all the 525 stay alive parts that were available: Case Cradle, chrome moly end plate and topped it of with a LSD. As for the shifter i had the hiem link set up from LRE (same goes for the gridle and end plate) installed and it fits with a 3 inch exhaust. Just a note to say, anything is possible with these cars!

 

The big one would be a new diff for the 525. I stretched the MP soft race gears 1/2" on the shaft and broke it in 3 pieces. It fell between the pinion and the ring and split the case in half. Riot.

[86glhs76]

Yes, 525 trannies are fragile but back in the day when my SC was built (93) - i had all the 525 stay alive parts that were available: Case Cradle, chrome moly end plate and topped it of with a LSD. As for the shifter i had the hiem link set up from LRE (same goes for the gridle and end plate) installed and it fits with a 3 inch exhaust. Just a note to say, anything is possible with these cars!

 

The big one would be a new diff for the 525. I stretched the MP soft race gears 1/2" on the shaft and broke it in 3 pieces. It fell between the pinion and the ring and split the case in half. Riot.