MIL LIGHT

[Airborne4162]

Hello to all you GT 500 owners,

 

I upwrapped my beauty from winter storage.

Started it and got a hard engine MIL light.

I immediately took it to my Dealer who quickly troubleshot it down to a bad MAP sensor.

FYI to all proud and watchful owners who has stored their investments for safe keeping.

Details on my factory stock Shelby GT500 are as follows:

 

• 2008 Shelby GT500
  
• Black/Alloy Stripe
  
• Stock everything
  
• 3245 miles
  
• Coupe
  
• 1st owner, accepted with 7 miles on ODO
  
• No hard driving or track use
  
• Furthest drive (3.5 hours) to Indiana from Ohio
  
• Home Heated garage, insulated to include doors
  
• Kimberly Clark Noah cover
  
• Oil changed with factory Motorcraft FULL SYNC Q GT500 oil @ 500 miles, 2nd due @ 3500 (soon).
  

 

I share everyone's pride and excitement in ownership and hate to hear bad news on such an investment. Don't get me wrong, this isn't to bash the GT500. I for one truly enjoy my GT500, but like everything mechanical, if you use it, it could break. I hope to inform you about what could go wrong, or if you suddenly experience a hard engine check light, you won't be the only one. Have fun with your car, I plan to once I get it back from my dealer next week.

 

For what it's worth.

 

Airborne all the way.

[Michael Morris]

good info and thanks for the post. im lucky and live in the South. we dont have to store them for the winter, but alot of guys do

michael morris

[Airborne4162]

good info and thanks for the post. im lucky and live in the South. we dont have to store them for the winter, but alot of guys do

michael morris

Anytime Mike.

 

This forum serves a special purpose...keeping us all informed. Alot of good read throughout.

 

I highly recommend it.

[FiaCobra]

I really don't get your post. Not flaming you but i'm confused. Are you warning us that if we store the car, we have a chance at getting a MAP code to kick the light? Are you saying if we drive them, we have a chance of breaking them? See where i'm confused?

 

It's just a car, not an investment. Like everything in life, it won't last forever. As for your faulty MAP sensor, that's the 1st case i've heard to date. Prolly just a bad component, nothing to worry over.

[Airborne4162]

I really don't get your post. Not flaming you but i'm confused. Are you warning us that if we store the car, we have a chance at getting a MAP code to kick the light? Are you saying if we drive them, we have a chance of breaking them? See where i'm confused?

 

It's just a car, not an investment. Like everything in life, it won't last forever. As for your faulty MAP sensor, that's the 1st case i've heard to date. Prolly just a bad component, nothing to worry over.

No heat here, I bought it to drive it and in 3 months managed to rack up 3200 + miles until winter rolled around. Driving was just not feasible (tires, heavy salt road, crazy drivers). I stored it for approx. 2 months (which was long enough for me). We had a little break in weather and I couldn't resist driving it. I had no light, no problems prior to storing the car. I call it an investment, as I continue to make payments, but don't we all. I know some owners bought their Shelby's as a true investment for profit and that's ok too. I just wanted to pass on my personal experience while it's still under warranty (12 months/36 or miles). Warranties tend to run out when you need them the most. MAP sensors aren't cheap and there is nothing like turning the key, firing up those cylinders only to see a light staring you in the face. At first I thought it was a low battery causing the computer go heywire, or low anti-freeze, or even winter gas settling in the tank but to my surprise, bad MAP sensor. I've been buying cars from this particular dealership for a few years so if they said sensor, I trust it to be a sensor. Hopefully no one will experience the same, but if you do get the ugly light, be aware, there is record of it and you are not alone. Who knows it might save you a few extra days in the shop or some bickering between you the customer and the service department. I too hope this was just a bad Friday component. No worries here. Just itchin to drive it.

[switz]

Thanks for the post. Crazy all the crap that can go wrong for no reason.

[mach1fever]

Btw if you ever want to check on the dealer, ask them from the obd codes that the engine threw. You can google it and it can tell you exactly what they know

[Airborne4162]

What do you mean by 'hard engine MIL' ?

Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL), also known as the ENGINE CHECK LIGHT. Something is wrong with the engine, normally tied into overheating, leaning fuel mixture, etc. when left unchecked could results in major engine damage. Our GT500 has a little engine shape icon on the instrument panel speedometer side on the bottom left that lights up when you turn the key to run and extinguishes shortly thereafter once the computer evaluates all of the engines parameters and verifies that it's ok to drive. If the light stays on...you got a problem. Sometimes if you cycle the key on and off several times (40 for this car) you can clear the light (OFF) and the computer will continue to monitor until it finds something usual and then turns it back on again. Because so many things can cause an engine light to come on, there is usually a history (or archive) of information built up into memory and after so many "oh, no, not good" checks....the light will come on. If you have a hard light, no matter if it's one hick up or ten, it will stay on until you have your car serviced. Today's computer's will stored into memory many things storing what has happened in chronological order so the mechanic can see your driving habits after connecting his trusty old Integrated Diagnostic System (IDS), this is how he or she verifies your story. Honesty is the best policy, chances are they'll know what you did, when you did it and how you did it before you can explain what went wrong. My light was a hard break and was not resetable. My story agreed with my car's legend making it an easy troubleshoot for the mechanic. He didn't appear surprised and all to common of a problem but it was uncommon for a new car, especially this car. My mechanic advised what the car was doing and seeing. In short, the parameter were actually calling for the opposite response action (I want fast, it sayes slow...I want slow, it sayes fast) and apparently the disagreement was so severe with the main computers algorithm that it finally said enough and triggered the light. Why it decide to go out when it did is beyond me, but I'm glad it did so prior to my warranty goind out. Whether it was time (at 3200 + miles) or storing it for a length of time doesn't matter, fact is, it lit up and won't go away until I had it checked out.

[Airborne4162]

Btw if you ever want to check on the dealer, ask them from the obd codes that the engine threw. You can google it and it can tell you exactly what they know

I plan on getting the rip (print out) of all of the Diagnostic Test Codes (DTC)s, before and after repairs and receipts to store in my car's profolio. Not worried about the history, break, fixes, dents and would certainly let the next owner know like many cars I've sold before. I'll share the rest of the story if interested. For now, still in the shop for a part.

[mach1fever]

Airborne,

 

You obviously know more about this than I thought. Thats great if you can get that printout. Most dealers won't let you have it. Its a great idea, especially since the gt500 is special. Good luck, and I am interested in the outcome. Thanks for the heads up.

 

Roger

[phr3121]

Here is a list of Ford DTC (Engine Light) Codes:

 

Link -> http://www.svtlightnings.com/scantool/ford%20dtc%20codes.htm

 

Ford Trouble Codes (2 & 3 digit):

 

Link -> http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/

[Airborne4162]

Here is a list of Ford DTC (Engine Light) Codes:

 

Link -> http://www.svtlightnings.com/scantool/ford%20dtc%20codes.htm

 

Ford Trouble Codes (2 & 3 digit):

 

Link -> http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/

WOW!!!!!!!!!

[DubbsFaris]

Awesome- now I know what a mil light is!

 

Thanks for the engine codes....that is a VALUABLE asset...as usual, this site rocks!

[sharabi]

WOW!!!!!!!!!

 

 

I wonder if it is the Oxygen sensor went bad, if you did not fire the engine over two months i would not be surprised (especially the quality of premium gas is not that good) that it is incomplete combustion that will throw O2 sensor out of track. it happened to my BMW M3 before and i still remember that engine light going on, flash back to 1995...lol.

good luck with your GT500 i think it is a minor issue , keep us informed

[sharabi]

WOW!!!!!!!!!

[sharabi]

WOW!!!!!!!!!

sorry for that i hit refresh button somehow it posted twice..

[Airborne4162]

sorry for that i hit refresh button somehow it posted twice..

I too have difficulty navigating through these forums, but hey, never to old to learn. Well, I got back my car with the following details to share; CHECK ENGINE LAMP ON. MAF SENSOR FAILED. CHECKED AND VERIFIED CONCERN. CHECKED DTC CODES PAS PASS P0174. CHECKED FREEZEFRAME DATA. VERIFIED LONG AND SHORT FUEL TRIMS HIGH SMOKE TEST INTAKE SYSTEM AND FOUND NO LEAKS AND CAP OFF AND RECHECKED STILL HIGH. CHECKED BARO CHANGES BETWEEN 151 AND 158 AT EACH KEY CYCLE. REPLACED MAF SENSOR AND RECHECKED TRIMS LOWERING AND ALSO WAS LOW ON FUEL. ADD $20.00 IN FUEL TO BE ABLE TO PERFORM TESTS. RETEST OK.

 

In english, a hard Malfunction light that won't go out regardless of reset. Second, because it is not extinguishable, easy fix for a mechanic. The Diagnostic Test Code (DTC) stored in the computer was P0174 - System Too Lean (Bank 2). This means the left side (driver) of the engine was running lean. More air than gas possibly caused by the following once you go back a step (P0171) in the troubleshooting tree.

 

Fuel System:

 

• Damaged or leaking fuel pulse damper

• Fuel filter plugged or dirty

• Damaged or worn fuel pump

• Leaking fuel pump check valve

• Leaking/contaminated fuel injectors

• Low fuel pressure or running out of fuel

• Evaporative emission (EVAP) canister purge valve is leaking when the canister is clean

• Fuel supply line restricted

• Fuel rail pressure sensor bias

   

• Exhaust System:

• Exhaust leaks in the exhaust manifold gasket or mating gaskets before or near the heated oxygen sensor (HO2S)

• EGR System:

• Vacuum hose disconnected on exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system module (ESM) applications

• EGR valve tube/gasket leak

• EGR vacuum regulator solenoid leak

   

• Intake Air System:

• Air leaks after the mass air flow (MAF) sensor

• Vacuum leaks

• Positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system is leaking or the valve is stuck open

• Incorrectly seated engine oil dipstick

• Intake air turbulence due to incorrect air filter

• Damaged or contaminated MAF sensor

• Secondary Air Injection:

• Damaged secondary air injection system or a mechanically stuck valve

 

 

The mechanic was able to verify no intake leaks, as it should be, wiring was good with respect to both Heated Oxygen Sensor to include the HO2 sensors themselves. The odd reading were barometric pressures in relationship to what the Mass Air Flow sensor was requesting. Not in agreement with the end result (e.g. HO2 readings) hence confusing the computer. In fact the computer continued to correct the problem until it had enough. Once the MAF sensor was changed, everything checked out ok. There was a pause for cause as the mechanic has to stop to add more fuel. This was my bad, I brought the car into the shop with a 1/4 of a tank of gas, so they graciously filled her up. Bottomline, they changed out MAF sensor and everything works fine. Probably a Friday part on my Monday car. What does this mean? Unless you're a professionally trained and well networked automotive mechanic within the automotive community, don't try this fix yourself. Leave it to the experts.

 

Best part for last: Having a good history with this dealership and knowing their customer base of not only private autos but fleet emergency vehicles, I opted to go one step further which is why it has taken me so long to reply. I asked that they install Ford Racing's FR-1 upgrade package while they were in there doing their mechanical stuff.

 

Results: Immediate and noticable improvement. Be ready to feel a mass amount of torgue jump in at around 4000 rpm (not Redline like it states in the Ford brochure). Borderline dangerous, and the exhaust note sounds...pure retro.

 

In summary, I got a great fix with a hell of a modification. Highly recommend the FR-1 to all of you GT500 owners. If you're in Ohio, I'd turn you onto them upon request. I'm not here to create business, jsut to share the experience.

 

Unleash the pure power and hold on for the ride of your life.

[sharabi]

Glad it worked well for you, enjoy the ride..

[phr3121]

Best part for last: Having a good history with this dealership and knowing their customer base of not only private autos but fleet emergency vehicles, I opted to go one step further which is why it has taken me so long to reply. I asked that they install Ford Racing's FR-1 upgrade package while they were in there doing their mechanical stuff.

 

The Ford Racing FR-1 upgrade package is what comes standard on the GT500KR!

 

 

2007-08 SVT Shelby Mustang -- Power Upgrade Package:

- 40 hp increase over stock

- 113 mm Cold Air Kit

- Muffler Kit

- Performance Oil Filter

 

I thought about putting one in my car but don't like the CAI look (a minority here). I didn't think the 40hp increase was worth the additional $1,000 price. I'm glad you are enjoying your modifications....

[Airborne4162]

The Ford Racing FR-1 upgrade package is what comes standard on the GT500KR!

 

 

2007-08 SVT Shelby Mustang -- Power Upgrade Package:

- 40 hp increase over stock

- 113 mm Cold Air Kit

- Muffler Kit

- Performance Oil Filter

 

I thought about putting one in my car but don't like the CAI look (a minority here). I didn't think the 40hp increase was worth the additional $1,000 price. I'm glad you are enjoying your modifications....

The one you have pictured is not the same as what I have on my GT500, but it's a close second. If I knew how to move the actual picture over to show you I would. Lack computing skills. The one I have looks very factory original, not a metal box style, also the filter is alittle to big. The mufflers are squarer and have Ford Racing embossed on them. The real deal isn't it's looks. I called the Ford Racing guys and boy were they helpful. First, the inlet port leading into the supercharger is almost equal one for one. 113 mm opening to match the ports (I believe 120 mm opening) causing a lot more air flow. The mufflers; what can I say, they sound great. Rumble is what I wanted, rumble is what I got + the outflow is much higher. The filter allows approx. 50% more oil flow than stock which means alot with these synthetic oil motors. But the best part is not all of the common sense upgrades, it is pushing the parameters back down to you via the factory reprogrammer. Although I'm still having trouble with the fast kick in the pants torque dump only because I was use to the build up in between gears before the reprogram. Not any more. Your best bet is to polish up on shifting. I wrestled with the cost too, the final decision-maker was the warranty coverage by Ford, because it was designed for Ford via their team. The KR wasn't out at the time, and probably won't see one on the road for many years but at least I know how they feel. Recommend it...you won't be disappointed. What's $1450.00 on a $50,000 + car?

[phr3121]

The one you have pictured is not the same as what I have on my GT500, but it's a close second. If I knew how to move the actual picture over to show you I would. Lack computing skills. The one I have looks very factory original, not a metal box style, also the filter is alittle to big.

 

Does the filter look like this:

 

[Airborne4162]

Does the filter look like this:

 

That's it. A perfect fit. It also howls when the supercharger kicks in probably what the supercharger would sound like if there were no filter. It is noticably louder and definitely an attention getter. Did you find the mufflers? All I know is that they complete the car. Tucked underneath, big high polished chrome tube and embroidered on the body and the tip of the exhaust tube as you're looking down and out the back of the car. You'd like them. Deep sounding...bad to the bone.