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What oil do you use ?


SGT2666

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I was watching the channel all men watch SPIKE TV thats right horsepower TV lol They did an interesting test today comparing Dyno runs one with standard oil the other with Royal Purple synthetic. They were able to show an 8 almost 9 hp improvement with the synthetic on a 400+hp motor. You can't believe what you see on TV but I did think it was interesting none the less.

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It depends on the car. I have used mostly Mobil 1 in the past, but on my M3 I used Shell Rotella synthetic. I think I am going to stick with the Ford Motorcraft 5w20 Synthetic Blend for my Shelby. That is the same oil I use in my Expedition so I will have plenty on hand.

 

 

Funny I'm running Rotella in my sportbikes.

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I saw this too. I have a friend who swears by it and uses it in everything from trials bikes to his cars. I used Mobil 1 in my SRT I had before but thats what came in it. I switched to Valvoline syn tech in the Shelby, just had a few cases in the garage from my pops truck.

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I saw this too. I have a friend who swears by it and uses it in everything from trials bikes to his cars. I used Mobil 1 in my SRT I had before but thats what came in it. I switched to Valvoline syn tech in the Shelby, just had a few cases in the garage from my pops truck.

 

 

What about the newbie Royal Purle?

 

R/ J

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Oil? Hold on I paid how much for this car and now I have to put OIL in it? Bad enough the $@#! just quits due to some defect that requires you to purchase more gasoline after only a few hours of driving. Each day I learn more and more how much WASN'T included in the 40K price! Anyone else go on a test drive etc., and have a sales person not tell you these things! <_<

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I just went out and uncovered my baby, and was looking under the hood to see if I could find where I saw this. there is a sticker that was put on at shelby that covers up the factory sticker that reads 10w-30. It doesn't say anything about synthetic oil :huh: does anyone else have this on there SGT's?

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I didn't see this program about a 9 HP gain, I don't get the speed channel here. But, I find it hard to swallow right now. If they cut the car lose from the dyno to change oil and filter, this may have had an affect of the quality of the pulls, i.e. strap down tension, tire placement on the roller, and so on. Guess I'll have to poke around a bit, see what's on the web.

 

Meanwhile, I prefer the bulk Motorcraft 5W20 and Motorcraft filter from my dealership. If my SGT engine goes south down the road, I don't want any warranty issues about aftermarket products. If something isn't up to FMC specs, Ford will turn your claim down and make you fight them.

 

Doesn't matter to me what the Shelby sticker says, the engine oil cap says 5W20 and Shelby doesn't warranty the engine, Ford does. Oil specs are 5W20 in the big red book, XO-5W20-QSP (US).

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I didn't see this program about a 9 HP gain, I don't get the speed channel here. But, I find it hard to swallow right now. If they cut the car lose from the dyno to change oil and filter, this may have had an affect of the quality of the pulls, i.e. strap down tension, tire placement on the roller, and so on. Guess I'll have to poke around a bit, see what's on the web.

 

Meanwhile, I prefer the bulk Motorcraft 5W20 and Motorcraft filter from my dealership. If my SGT engine goes south down the road, I don't want any warranty issues about aftermarket products. If something isn't up to FMC specs, Ford will turn your claim down and make you fight them.

 

Doesn't matter to me what the Shelby sticker says, the engine oil cap says 5W20 and Shelby doesn't warranty the engine, Ford does. Oil specs are 5W20 in the big red book, XO-5W20-QSP (US).

 

 

+1, and I don't believe that 9hp baloney for a moment - that's simply impossible, all things being equal.

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I didn't see this program about a 9 HP gain, I don't get the speed channel here. But, I find it hard to swallow right now. If they cut the car lose from the dyno to change oil and filter, this may have had an affect of the quality of the pulls, i.e. strap down tension, tire placement on the roller, and so on. Guess I'll have to poke around a bit, see what's on the web.

 

Meanwhile, I prefer the bulk Motorcraft 5W20 and Motorcraft filter from my dealership. If my SGT engine goes south down the road, I don't want any warranty issues about aftermarket products. If something isn't up to FMC specs, Ford will turn your claim down and make you fight them.

 

Doesn't matter to me what the Shelby sticker says, the engine oil cap says 5W20 and Shelby doesn't warranty the engine, Ford does. Oil specs are 5W20 in the big red book, XO-5W20-QSP (US).

 

 

Wasn't in a car it was crank HP...

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I use the AMSoil 0W-30 as I believe it offers the best wear protection and that is my long term objective. started a thread months ago that Shelby had a sticker under the hood claiming we should use 5W-30, not 5W-20. Bud stated they felt we should use the heavier 30 weight oil. I looked at a 2008 and noticed they do not ahve the sticker.

 

AMSoil may be expensive but I only change once a year so it actually works out to be cheaper. And again, I still believe it offers the best protection.

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I use the AMSoil 0W-30 as I believe it offers the best wear protection and that is my long term objective. started a thread months ago that Shelby had a sticker under the hood claiming we should use 5W-30, not 5W-20. Bud stated they felt we should use the heavier 30 weight oil. I looked at a 2008 and noticed they do not ahve the sticker.

 

AMSoil may be expensive but I only change once a year so it actually works out to be cheaper. And again, I still believe it offers the best protection.

 

 

and it may well offer all the benefits that Royal Purple is claiming. I'd like to see alot more testing on this stuff more horsepower and better fuel economy rings of bullshit but if real they have my attention.

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and it may well offer all the benefits that Royal Purple is claiming. I'd like to see alot more testing on this stuff more horsepower and better fuel economy rings of bullshit but if real they have my attention.

 

 

+1 B)

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I use the AMSoil 0W-30 as I believe it offers the best wear protection and that is my long term objective. started a thread months ago that Shelby had a sticker under the hood claiming we should use 5W-30, not 5W-20. Bud stated they felt we should use the heavier 30 weight oil. I looked at a 2008 and noticed they do not ahve the sticker.

 

AMSoil may be expensive but I only change once a year so it actually works out to be cheaper. And again, I still believe it offers the best protection.

 

 

 

The 2008 calls for the Ford Premium Synthetic (XO-5W20-QSP) rather than the Synthetic Blend (XO-5W20-5QSP) - $6.66/qt verses the $2.15 or so for the Blend. No stickers anywhere suggesting a 5W-30.

 

Viscosity can have a significant (negative) impact on the cam phaser operation also, even just going to the 30W.

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I was watching the channel all men watch SPIKE TV thats right horsepower TV lol They did an interesting test today comparing Dyno runs one with standard oil the other with Royal Purple synthetic. They were able to show an 8 almost 9 hp improvement with the synthetic on a 400+hp motor. You can't believe what you see on TV but I did think it was interesting none the less.

 

 

Mobil 1 0W-40 For me! This is factory pour in the Viper, Porsches, Mercedes Benz's, and I think the Vette Z06. So I figure my Shelby GT is worthy...Also I have the paxton SC so I the extra protection under that kind of pressure and heat. I also would be happy to use the Castrol 0W-30 German Made. Standard Pour in BMW's.

 

I didn't see this program about a 9 HP gain, I don't get the speed channel here. But, I find it hard to swallow right now. If they cut the car lose from the dyno to change oil and filter, this may have had an affect of the quality of the pulls, i.e. strap down tension, tire placement on the roller, and so on. Guess I'll have to poke around a bit, see what's on the web.

 

Meanwhile, I prefer the bulk Motorcraft 5W20 and Motorcraft filter from my dealership. If my SGT engine goes south down the road, I don't want any warranty issues about aftermarket products. If something isn't up to FMC specs, Ford will turn your claim down and make you fight them.

 

Doesn't matter to me what the Shelby sticker says, the engine oil cap says 5W20 and Shelby doesn't warranty the engine, Ford does. Oil specs are 5W20 in the big red book, XO-5W20-QSP (US).

 

 

5W-20 will get better gas milage, which helps Ford with their CAFE (Corporate Average Fuel Economy) requirements, it's good enough to get you through 36K miles! No way would you ever convince me that that $2/quart oil is good enough for any respectable performance engine. Just look at the worlds leading sports cars and what they use as standard pour. Mobil 1 0W-40 Euro Formula, will even sheer quickly to a 30 weight. But you should want as much oil film between your engines metal parts as possible.

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The 2008 calls for the Ford Premium Synthetic (XO-5W20-QSP) rather than the Synthetic Blend (XO-5W20-5QSP) - $6.66/qt verses the $2.15 or so for the Blend. No stickers anywhere suggesting a 5W-30.

 

Viscosity can have a significant (negative) impact on the cam phaser operation also, even just going to the 30W.

 

Agreed. According to my "big red book" the XO-5W20-QSP (US) premium synthethic blend is the spec for the 2007 4.6L-3V engine. It also suggests the "super premium" CXO-5W20-LSP12 (Canada) as well.

 

That said, I would like to remind y'all that the lubrication system in our SGTs is a relative of the cooling system. and they work together. Oil viscosity is an important element here, in controlling engine temps.

 

The SGT comes with a performance tune, and despite how you feel about its real time performance, it makes decisions based (partially) on engine temps. The closer you stay to 180 EOT, the better your SGT will run. There's more involved, but I'm not getting into that now. Just do what you can to keep EO temps as low as possible.

 

Thus...If engine oil circulates too quickly, it does not capture and carry away overall engine heat as intended. Likewise, if engine oil circulates too slowly, it captures too much heat. Heat that cannot be shed in normal cooling cycles, and it recirculates back into the engine with much less capacity/ability to absorb anymore internal heat. This called "heat soak", and it leads to detonation and pre-ignition, very bad stuff.

 

Use the oil you want, gents, but don't mess with viscosity. Prolly good advice to consider an additional oil cooler too...Can't hurt, right?

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Concur with most of which LuLu has stated, as usual. What I find most informative about this post is that Ford is now recommending FULL synthetic, as opposed to synthetic blend. I guess this puts the final nail in the coffin of the conventional oil vs synthetic oil debate.

 

I use the AMSoil 0W-30 because I believe it offers the best high temperature protection, surpassing even Mobil One, and the best anti-wear characteristics.

 

We should all remember that oil, as LuLu has reminded us, performs several functions. It not only lubricates, protects, cleans, but also cools.

 

Shelby recommended 5W-30 as opposed to 5W-20 oil because they felt we would drive the cars harder than the average 4.6 liter driver. I don't think there is that much difference between 20 and 30 weight oil for flowing. There is a definite difference when you start getting into the 40 and 50 weight oils. I believe the SGT 500 calls for 5W-50 oil.

 

Concur with LuLu re the addition of an engine oil cooler. It is available from FRPP and is an easy bolt on installation. I have installed in the past and installation consists of removing the filter, installing a plate with inlet and outlet tubes, torquing the plate, reinstall the filter. Then determine the location of your oil cooler, secure, attach the lines and you are done. Oh yeah, one more thing, add an additional approximately one quart of oil. That increases the capacity and is that much more time the oil is away from the internal and the heat soak that LuLu has spoken of. Just be sure to drain the oil from the cooler and lines when you change the oil so you do not leave a quart of dirty oil in the system.

 

Finally, as stated above, oil not only cleans, cools, but also protects those moving parts from wear. 90% of the wear occurs when you first turn the key and the oil is in the pan. AMSoil 0W-30 flows at -58 degrees farenheit and pumps faster than even Mobil One. That is why I use the AMSoil 0W-30 because, in my learned opinion, it provides the best startup protection and the best high temp protection.

 

That is why we are all here. We are expressing opinions, hopefully based on knowledge and experience, a desire to provide the best in long term protection for our vehicles, and a sincere interest in passing our thoughts on to others with the intent of helping others. Hopefully we can all learn from each other.

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"Shelby recommended 5W-30 as opposed to 5W-20 oil because they felt we would drive the cars harder than the average 4.6 liter driver. I don't think there is that much difference between 20 and 30 weight oil for flowing. There is a definite difference when you start getting into the 40 and 50 weight oils. I believe the SGT 500 calls for 5W-50 oil."

 

 

"07SGT - aka "The Walking AMSOIL advert"

 

The 2008, at least, calls for 5W-20 oil and NOT 5W-30 as you prescribe. There is indeed a difference between the 20W and 30W, and Ford "Robust Engineering" Tests did find that the cam-phasers were sensitive to a change to a 30W oil, and that it did cause a calibration lag.

 

As to "Shelby recommended 5W-30 as opposed to 5W-20 oil because they felt we would drive the cars harder than the average 4.6 liter driver", thats plain drivel! Variations of the same engine work in significantly harsher services than dragging the Mustang around, and do so on the Syn Blend 5W-20 oil.

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