Mods completed

[SGT2666]

Had this a while but finally got it installed. Steeda upper and lower control arms and Fays2 Watts Link.

 

[fatboy_merged]

cool. u do it urself or Ford?

[RogerS]

Nice job Waldo. Now you will see a difference! Give us your impressions after you put it through a work out.

[clark17357]

Nice job Waldo. Now you will see a difference! Give us your impressions after you put it through a work out.

 

Said the snowbound man to the non-snowbound man. Jim

[SGT2666]

cool. u do it urself or Ford?

 

 

I guess I'm picky but I don't have much luck hiring people to do the work. I find that if I want it done right its best to do it yourself.

 

Nice job Waldo. Now you will see a difference! Give us your impressions after you put it through a work out.

 

 

I took it out today and did some twisties and some straight line tests. The car felt hooked up and precise in the corners it felt great but the Fays2 does have a clunk now and then as has been discussed previously. I'm still not able to keep hooked up in first and second without judicious use of throttle, I'm running about 3 degrees on the third member right now, I'm gonna talk to some people and see if there is anything to be gained by changing it. The reality is that for me I think the Fays2 will work well it will get mostly street and some track time but its definitely a cost issue for me. I think the Saleen watts link is a cleaner solution but for me it was more then I wanted to spend and I would guess the performance difference is negligible.

[RogerS]

Thanks for the report, I think the rod ends maybe the contributing factor on the NHV front. One of the trade offs for a "race piece". The Saleen unit, while reduced in pricing recently, has a recall on it. Don't know exactly why. They have also released the "version 2 design" haven't found info on that set up yet. For the price, the Fays is the way to go with the same results. Nice job on the installation.

[louie428]

Waldo! Install lower control arm relocation brackets it make car hook alot better.

[clark17357]

Waldo! Install lower control arm relocation brackets it make car hook alot better.

 

With the relocation backets that you are showing, does that make the bracket the low point on the car (as in the first thing that would hit the ground)? Thanks for letting me know when you get a moment. Jim

[SGT2666]

With the relocation backets that you are showing, does that make the bracket the low point on the car (as in the first thing that would hit the ground)? Thanks for letting me know when you get a moment. Jim

 

 

I had the same question it looks low. What does that try to accomplish?

[dave c]

With the relocation backets that you are showing, does that make the bracket the low point on the car (as in the first thing that would hit the ground)? Thanks for letting me know when you get a moment. Jim

 

My question is....... is the relocation bracket to help with the weight transfer? Looks like 3-4 inches? bolted and welded? and yes that appears to be really, really low. My second question is, if you don't use the relocation bracket, can the brake cable go over the top? or does it need to be threaded through?

You guys need to work out all the bugs so I don't have to. LOL

[SGT2666]

My question is....... is the relocation bracket to help with the weight transfer? Looks like 3-4 inches? bolted and welded? and yes that appears to be really, really low. My second question is, if you don't use the relocation bracket, can the brake cable go over the top? or does it need to be threaded through?

You guys need to work out all the bugs so I don't have to. LOL

 

 

You could run the brake cable anyway you please. I would be more then happy to make them disappear lol I didn't see a better way to tie them up, Steeda sent tieraps to tie them up with but I think they need to be free enough to move with the rear end. If you see a better plan help me out :D

 

As far as the LCA attachment point and some of the other options available I decided that our lowering was comparitively mild 1" I believe and should not require the extra hardware. I don't have any solid evidence that this is correct. I was going to talk to Steeda about it, the front end is also in question as far as bump steer.

[srf73]

You could run the brake cable anyway you please. I would be more then happy to make them disappear lol I didn't see a better way to tie them up, Steeda sent tieraps to tie them up with but I think they need to be free enough to move with the rear end. If you see a better plan help me out :D

 

As far as the LCA attachment point and some of the other options available I decided that our lowering was comparitively mild 1" I believe and should not require the extra hardware. I don't have any solid evidence that this is correct. I was going to talk to Steeda about it, the front end is also in question as far as bump steer.

 

 

From what I understand the amount of lowering in our cars(~1 1/2") , extending the LCA brackets is really not required, unless you wanted to get really serious about 1/4 mile times. The lowering on our cars imparted about 1 1/2 degrees of negative camber upfront and I'm sure bump steer was impacted. What we need is somebody to actually measure bump steer and see how bad it is before deciding whether it needs fixing. This means locking the steering straight ahead, disconnecting shocks, springs and sway bars and then raising the wheel full up to full down to check the variation in toe-in/out thru the range of motion.

 

Something else I haven't seen anybody worrying about is that messing with camber also impacts toe....anybody measure stock toe-in/out on our cars to see how good/bad it is? I haven't checked yet myself, something to do this weekend :-)

 

Todd

csm1638

[SGT2666]

From what I understand the amount of lowering in our cars(~1 1/2") , extending the LCA brackets is really not required, unless you wanted to get really serious about 1/4 mile times. The lowering on our cars imparted about 1 1/2 degrees of negative camber upfront and I'm sure bump steer was impacted. What we need is somebody to actually measure bump steer and see how bad it is before deciding whether it needs fixing. This means locking the steering straight ahead, disconnecting shocks, springs and sway bars and then raising the wheel full up to full down to check the variation in toe-in/out thru the range of motion.

 

Something else I haven't seen anybody worrying about is that messing with camber also impacts toe....anybody measure stock toe-in/out on our cars to see how good/bad it is? I haven't checked yet myself, something to do this weekend :-)

 

Todd

csm1638

 

 

I plan to take mine in soon for an alignment and i'll able to tell you. I like the negative camber, I thnk I'll take as much as they can give me hoping for 1.3 1.5 range. I'm not sure what the stock toe is supposed to be?

[ShelbyPilot]

I had mine aligned about a month ago here is it what the sheet says (* is for degree):

 

Mustang 05-07 (including GT500)

 

Specified ranges

Front left or right: Camber (-1.5* to 0*), Caster (6.4* to 7.9*), Toe (-1/32" to 5/64")

Front cross/total: Camber (-0.8* to 0.8*), Caster (-0.8* to 0.8*), Toe (-3/64" to 5/32")

----no specified ranges for rear

 

My baselines (how I drove it in):

Front left: Camber (-1.5*), Caster (7.6*), Toe (-1/8")

Front right: Camber (-1.3*), Caster (7.4*), Toe (-3/32")

Front cross/total: Camber (-0.2*), Caster (0.2*), Toe (-7/32")

Rear left: Camber (0.0*), Toe (-5/32")

Rear right: Camber (-0.2*), Toe (3/32")

Rear cross/total: Camber (0.1*), Toe (-1/16"), Thrust (-0.24*)

 

Results:

Front left: Camber (-1.5*), Caster (7.6*), Toe (1/64")

Front right: Camber (-1.3*), Caster (7.4*), Toe (1/64")

Front cross/total: Camber (-0.2*), Caster (0.2*), Toe (1/32")

Rear left: Camber (0.0*), Toe (-1/32")

Rear right: Camber (-0.1*), Toe (-1/32")

Rear cross/total: Camber (0.1*), Toe (-1/16"), Thrust (0.01*)

 

Now, I had my car in because the thrust angle was out of whack after a poor lower control arm install. I also have 20" wheels and wider tires and wheels. I don't know all the ways those modifications might change the numbers. Most of the numbers are gibirish to me but there they are. Also I am curious if the Shelby GT is included in the "Mustang 05-07 (including GT500)."

[srf73]

I had mine aligned about a month ago here is it what the sheet says (* is for degree):

 

Mustang 05-07 (including GT500)

 

Specified ranges

Front left or right: Camber (-1.5* to 0*), Caster (6.4* to 7.9*), Toe (-1/32" to 5/64")

Front cross/total: Camber (-0.8* to 0.8*), Caster (-0.8* to 0.8*), Toe (-3/64" to 5/32")

----no specified ranges for rear

 

My baselines (how I drove it in):

Front left: Camber (-1.5*), Caster (7.6*), Toe (-1/8")

Front right: Camber (-1.3*), Caster (7.4*), Toe (-3/32")

Front cross/total: Camber (-0.2*), Caster (0.2*), Toe (-7/32")

Rear left: Camber (0.0*), Toe (-5/32")

Rear right: Camber (-0.2*), Toe (3/32")

Rear cross/total: Camber (0.1*), Toe (-1/16"), Thrust (-0.24*)

 

Results:

Front left: Camber (-1.5*), Caster (7.6*), Toe (1/64")

Front right: Camber (-1.3*), Caster (7.4*), Toe (1/64")

Front cross/total: Camber (-0.2*), Caster (0.2*), Toe (1/32")

Rear left: Camber (0.0*), Toe (-1/32")

Rear right: Camber (-0.1*), Toe (-1/32")

Rear cross/total: Camber (0.1*), Toe (-1/16"), Thrust (0.01*)

 

Now, I had my car in because the thrust angle was out of whack after a poor lower control arm install. I also have 20" wheels and wider tires and wheels. I don't know all the ways those modifications might change the numbers. Most of the numbers are gibirish to me but there they are. Also I am curious if the Shelby GT is included in the "Mustang 05-07 (including GT500)."

 

 

Cool. Thank you. I'll check mine this week and report back. It's SAI factory stock on stock SGT wheels.

Looks like they took extreme (ok a lot anyway) of toe-in out of your car, so I'd say you needed that alignment.

 

Todd

CSM1638