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SGT W/Kennebell


RogerS

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Saving to put one on mine!Kenne Bell Rocks!

 

 

 

Yes they do! I put their 1.7L twin-screw on my 2001 GT 4 years ago. Great kit - absolutely complete down to the last washer, bolt, and zip-tie. Made the little 281 cu-in 2V drive like a big block with all that low rpm torque!

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Yes they do! I put their 1.7L twin-screw on my 2001 GT 4 years ago. Great kit - absolutely complete down to the last washer, bolt, and zip-tie. Made the little 281 cu-in 2V drive like a big block with all that low rpm torque!

 

They seem to offer the most comprehensive kit,With the most gains!I know a lot of GT500 owners ditch the factory charger for a Kenne Bell,With ungodly results!

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They seem to offer the most comprehensive kit,With the most gains!I know a lot of GT500 owners ditch the factory charger for a Kenne Bell,With ungodly results!

 

 

 

I too am eager to try one...I went sai/pax on the SGT but may try a KB on another project. Just remember there is no free lunch in the forced induction game.....more boost + more volume = more bang(s).( with bang being = to results ( positive or negative) The ONE THING forced induction experts will usually agree on is that more induction ( pressure or volume) will raise engine stress. Most also agree that there are "practical" limits as to what we can get out of a 281 cubic inch motor with stock internals/heads

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I too am eager to try one...I went sai/pax on the SGT but may try a KB on another project. Just remember there is no free lunch in the forced induction game.....more boost + more volume = more bang(s).( with bang being = to results ( positive or negative) The ONE THING forced induction experts will usually agree on is that more induction ( pressure or volume) will raise engine stress. Most also agree that there are "practical" limits as to what we can get out of a 281 cubic inch motor with stock internals/heads

 

Agreed!Somewhere I remember seeing that 500 crank rating with forced induction and proper tune is about all you want on our cars.

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Agreed!Somewhere I remember seeing that 500 crank rating with forced induction and proper tune is about all you want on our cars.

 

 

 

That number has come up with several sources I checked into when I did my sc install. I am currently at approx 538 crank hp ( un corrected for temp/humidity, about 550 corrected). I will not be surprised if i break/blow something up...I have done it before and know what it "feels like" when you have pushed a machine to its limits. I am hoping I break a drive shaft, bend a u-joint, wreck a clutch first...thems the warning signs that the rig is over stressed.

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The ONE THING forced induction experts will usually agree on is that more induction ( pressure or volume) will raise engine stress. Most also agree that there are "practical" limits as to what we can get out of a 281 cubic inch motor with stock internals/heads

 

 

And that's the reason I'm happy with 425 rwhp for the 2001. That seems to be the Mustang community accepted limit for the 4.6 2V (powder casted piston rods :angry: ). I've heard that the 4.6 3V can take up to 475 rwhp though.

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And that's the reason I'm happy with 425 rwhp for the 2001. That seems to be the Mustang community accepted limit for the 4.6 2V (powder casted piston rods :angry: ). I've heard that the 4.6 3V can take up to 475 rwhp though.

 

 

 

Dig-It

 

I totally agree with quoted estimated limits & your logic......I am pretty much following same thinking.

 

are you running a KB on the 2v ?

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I originally wanted a KB but that air intake setup is such crappy design compared to the whipple, it was the deal breaker for me. Wacking up my core support and hanging the air cleaner out there unprotected I honestly could'nt believe it.

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are you running a KB on the 2v ?

 

 

The pics from my first post of this thread are from my 2001 2V. I can't say enough about the quality of the blower and the installation kit that came with it. The instructions were top notch! My only complaint with KB would be their customer service - specifically the computer tuner guy. He believes that his programs are better than anything anyone working at a dyno tuning shop can produce.

 

I haven't seen a '05+ kit and don't know about hacking anything up for the air intake. The "Big Air" kit for the '99-'04 puts the air filter just in front of the passenger wheel well and just behind the front bumper fascia. There's a lot of nice cool moving air right there!

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That number has come up with several sources I checked into when I did my sc install. I am currently at approx 538 crank hp ( un corrected for temp/humidity, about 550 corrected). I will not be surprised if i break/blow something up...I have done it before and know what it "feels like" when you have pushed a machine to its limits. I am hoping I break a drive shaft, bend a u-joint, wreck a clutch first...thems the warning signs that the rig is over stressed.

 

Per my conversation with Kenne Bell which I posted somewhere in the past, they say 475 engine HP is safe for the motor. Over that and you're on borrowed time. Naturally there are people here way over that so I'm sure it's just a warranty/longetivity thing from KB is why they say those numbers. I believe the maximum boost they recommended was 8 psi.

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I originally wanted a KB but that air intake setup is such crappy design compared to the whipple, it was the deal breaker for me. Wacking up my core support and hanging the air cleaner out there unprotected I honestly could'nt believe it.

 

I have only seen pictures of the installation,You actually have to cut the core support?

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Per my conversation with Kenne Bell which I posted somewhere in the past, they say 475 engine HP is safe for the motor. Over that and you're on borrowed time. Naturally there are people here way over that so I'm sure it's just a warranty/longetivity thing from KB is why they say those numbers. I believe the maximum boost they recommended was 8 psi.

 

 

Stump Breaker...I am sure KB needs care when they offer practical limits....I think their promoting a high vol (2.6 liter) blower results , along with stepped pulleys increasing boost to 11+ psi, tends to draw the attention of those looking for big HP numbers (gets my attention). I think I would go with their position too (475/8psi) if I were in their business.....with it so easy to over-boost, over-oct-tune, super-cool charges, I take some comfort in sticking with stock SAI/Paxton boost levels on my car. Without reopening the "header can'o'worms", I have personally seen two 07's pull some great dyno numbers when combining top quality , full length headers with hi-flo cats , reasonable supercharger apps and custom tuning for the improved flow across the whole system. I prefer making increased hp/trq on the backend(exhaust) vs more induction. When you hear the changes with full length headers AND hi-flo cats even thru stock SGT mufflers, you gotta believe they are making a difference. I guess I am sticking with my high-flow theory of matching more exhaust capacity with more induction, fuel, air and tune. Just my 25cents.

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I have only seen pictures of the installation,You actually have to cut the core support?

 

 

Yes go to they're site and look at where they run the intake. They actually hang the air cleaner out front of the core support. The Whipple swaps sides so the intake is on the drivers side and its all bolt up OEM quality. I don't think there is anything out there more efficient then the Whipple design at making boost except maybe a turbo.

 

The things I've read indicated that the motors were good to about 650hp at the crank. I'm running 575hp at the crank which theoreticcally gives me a safety factor. If you buy the little Whipple from Ford racing they actually continue your warranty. I makes 500hp.

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Yes go to they're site and look at where they run the intake. They actually hang the air cleaner out front of the core support. The Whipple swaps sides so the intake is on the drivers side and its all bolt up OEM quality. I don't think there is anything out there more efficient then the Whipple design at making boost except maybe a turbo.

 

The things I've read indicated that the motors were good to about 650hp at the crank. I'm running 575hp at the crank which theoreticcally gives me a safety factor. If you buy the little Whipple from Ford racing they actually continue your warranty. I makes 500hp.

 

Good Info!Thanks.

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Personally I would never install an aftermarket SC in my Shelby GT. There is no $$ gain, just a loss of money. The SAI install of the Whipple is the best bang for your buck and would get the recongnition of having a SAI factory SC and your name and car in Shelby REGISTRY as a "stock" SC Shelby GT. Stock is the way mine will stay unless SAI does SC installs later on and I want to fork out the $$. Other wise, aftermarket installs are useless in my book unless you are going to race the car "all the time". Then go for it! But if you are thinking of resale one day, the after market SC will take the pureness away from the car and you'll have a small audience to sell it to-

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Personally I would never install an aftermarket SC in my Shelby GT. There is no $$ gain, just a loss of money. The SAI install of the Whipple is the best bang for your buck and would get the recongnition of having a SAI factory SC and your name and car in Shelby REGISTRY as a "stock" SC Shelby GT. Stock is the way mine will stay unless SAI does SC installs later on and I want to fork out the $$. Other wise, aftermarket installs are useless in my book unless you are going to race the car "all the time". Then go for it! But if you are thinking of resale one day, the after market SC will take the pureness away from the car and you'll have a small audience to sell it to-

 

 

+1

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Personally I would never install an aftermarket SC in my Shelby GT. There is no $$ gain, just a loss of money. The SAI install of the Whipple is the best bang for your buck and would get the recongnition of having a SAI factory SC and your name and car in Shelby REGISTRY as a "stock" SC Shelby GT. Stock is the way mine will stay unless SAI does SC installs later on and I want to fork out the $$. Other wise, aftermarket installs are useless in my book unless you are going to race the car "all the time". Then go for it! But if you are thinking of resale one day, the after market SC will take the pureness away from the car and you'll have a small audience to sell it to-

 

I won't argue that point with you because you are correct as far as the value goes!Does anyone here know what it would cost to have that kit installed from Shelby after the fact.Also rough guess on shipping your car back to Shelby or Tasca,Realizing we all live different distances from them,Reason why I said rough guess,Anybody that has done it might give us a distance from them to either place.

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I'm an educated man. I earned a BTDT degree from the "been there, did that" University in 2005.

 

The Shelby GT 4.6L 3V engine uses the same short block assembly as the 2003 and up 4V Mach 1, Aviator and Marauder, as well as all 4.6L 2V Mustangs, and all Crown Vic/Grand Marquis "public service" vehicles, (i.e. police/taxi) and Explorer/Mountaineer since 2001.

 

Originally known as the "WAP" block (meaning "Windsor Aluminum Plant") this tag was later changed to "NHV" once assembly moved to Mexico. Windsor still builds the FWD/AWD short block today, but the SGT bottom end is from the Mexico engine plant.

 

It is a very strong bottom end, but it has limits. Y'all have been talking in terms of producing RWHP, or, BHP as a guide to limitations. However, my degree says you need to consider boost limitations, as they are more important, as well as more telling of the stress on the whole car.

 

Boost limitation is 10 PSI and 475 RWHP. Above 10 PSI, you are driving a time-bomb, and not only with the bottom end, but the entire driveline (which, BTW is why I think this SGT is up for ebay auction).

 

IMHO, 10 PSI/475 RWHP is our SGT limit, and even then, long term longevity is severly impacted. I learned this the hard way, through 3 Marauders, 3-4V engine builds, 2-4R70W tranny builds, and two-8.8 differential builds. Countless control arm issues, twisted axles, fuel delivery problems, and the list goes on. It wasn't all bad, I ran 11.80s in a 4500 pound car with more creature comforts than belong on a race track. But, it cost me a lot of money too. In the end, I wasted a lot of cash. I had a dream, but it was a stupid dream.

 

Today, and IMHO, if you own a Shelby GT and you want more zoom, go with the SAI/Paxton/NOVI kit, and enjoy happy (and safe) motoring. If this mild (100 HP) centrifugal boost won't be enough for you, trade your SGT in for a genuine Shelby GT500, or, find a 10 year old Mustang and start from scratch. You can't have (or will you get) it all. Whole car engineering isn't there, best build it ground-up yourself.

 

That's my .02C, be safe.

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Does anyone here know what it would cost to have that kit installed from Shelby after the fact. Also rough guess on shipping your car back to Shelby?

I only peeked at this for a moment, and that was a while ago. But, I estimate shipping to SAI from any of the 48 continental states to be around 800 bucks one-way.

 

I also called and asked SAI about the cost of a factory/SAI install of the Paxton/Novi kit, and that "rough guess" quote came back "about 7 grand, out the door".

 

I've shipped a few cars across the country, even one to Hawaii, so, the shipping cost I project seems fair. But, if I were planning this, I'd plan a vacation in Vegas too. Drive my SGT there, and drive it home.

 

Sadly, I don't gamble, and Vegas seems boring. But, you'll never know what I will do, until I do it.

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