Jump to content
TEAM SHELBY FORUM

Installed my Brenspeed tune and Steeda elbow!


07SHELBY GT

Recommended Posts

Obviously, I'm behind the times here, but I have a dumb question:

 

Does the Brenspeed tune that everyone is talking about come standard on the SCT tuner, or do you have to order it special like?

 

Also, does this unit allow you to store and retain the factory FRPP SGT tune, or would you need to go back to a Ford dealership to return to anything other than a stock Mustang GT tune?

 

Wanting to do a custom tune, but just too many options out there...

 

 

Normally the tune is dialed in for your cars specifics, but Brenspeed has done so many for SGT's that they can send you the unit with the tunes already installed.

 

When you connect the new tuner for the first time it saves the stock SGT tune (FRPP tune) to the unit prior to loading any of the new tunes. If you ever want to go back to the stock SGT tune you just reload it from your tuner.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Obviously, I'm behind the times here, but I have a dumb question:

 

Does the Brenspeed tune that everyone is talking about come standard on the SCT tuner, or do you have to order it special like?

 

Also, does this unit allow you to store and retain the factory FRPP SGT tune, or would you need to go back to a Ford dealership to return to anything other than a stock Mustang GT tune?

 

Wanting to do a custom tune, but just too many options out there...

 

 

 

It will retain the stock FRPP SGT tune , and brendspeed has a tune nailed for the Shelby's

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Another option for anybody thinking of getting the tuner through Brenspeed is more than one tune for the same octane. They did (2) 91 octane tunes and a 93 octane tune for me. 1st 91 is a "street" tune. Really gave the car a lot of low end "grunt" and did improve the upper rpms some. 2nd 91 is a "race" tune. Quite a bit more low end than the stock tune, but not as much as the street tune, much more noticable in the upper rpm's. 93 is also a "race" tune, but 93 isn't available everywhere in my region, so I have not had the chance to try it yet.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My SCT tuner and Steeda elbow came in the mail today!So I couldn't wait to get home and install,Which took all of 15 minutes for both!Just wanted to tell you guys still just thinking about Brenspeeds tune,Get with it!As I have explained in some of my other posts,The peak power doesn't feel much different,BUT THE DRIVEABILITY HAS BEEN GREATLY INCREASED!It feels much peppier without as much throttle input.It has been exactly as I expected.I do not believe anyone would be disappointed!

 

congrats 07 Shelby GT !!!!!!!!!! :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My SCT tuner and Steeda elbow came in the mail today!So I couldn't wait to get home and install,Which took all of 15 minutes for both!Just wanted to tell you guys still just thinking about Brenspeeds tune,Get with it!As I have explained in some of my other posts,The peak power doesn't feel much different,BUT THE DRIVEABILITY HAS BEEN GREATLY INCREASED!It feels much peppier without as much throttle input.It has been exactly as I expected.I do not believe anyone would be disappointed!

 

 

Does anyone know if the pulley change is a potential warranty voider? Are the install steps posted anywhere?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Another option for anybody thinking of getting the tuner through Brenspeed is more than one tune for the same octane. They did (2) 91 octane tunes and a 93 octane tune for me. 1st 91 is a "street" tune. Really gave the car a lot of low end "grunt" and did improve the upper rpms some. 2nd 91 is a "race" tune. Quite a bit more low end than the stock tune, but not as much as the street tune, much more noticable in the upper rpm's. 93 is also a "race" tune, but 93 isn't available everywhere in my region, so I have not had the chance to try it yet.

 

 

 

Thats what i did, except my race only tune requires at least 95 octane. Very, Very agressive. I can get Vp 100 unleaded right from the pump so on the days i plan on the track, i mix to achieve about 96 octane and dont have to worry. Runs super smooth and like a bat out hell...................... :)

 

Does anyone know if the pulley change is a potential warranty voider? Are the install steps posted anywhere?

 

 

 

Anything you change is a potential warranty voider. If your water pump goes out and you have a larger pully on the car, They could say, if they want to be jerks that , its not a factory pulley there fore its not covered. You will run the risk on anything you do. But, like i have always said, if you have a good buddy, buddy, thing or a good customer they will look the other way in most cases or are performance oriented but, if they are jerks and you guy's dont get along, there maybe issues. who know's, throw the dice.......

 

I work there so i don't have the issues. But they don't do stuff like blowers so if i had one of those on there and something let go, im sure it would be a different story. :o

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Congrats 07 ShelbyGT--glad you like it...I'm still totally happy with mine. Michael, when I put mine with the new tune on the dyno last Friday it showed increased low-end HP and torque between 1750 rpms and 2250 rpms--which is where I spend A LOT of mine time driving.

 

You will feel a noticeable difference in low end grunt.

 

Now that we've got several people here on the board with the tune, I'll be interested to see if those with it installed see a noticeable difference in MPG. I think I may have lost a bit---maybe dropped from the low 18s to the high 17s---but part of that might be that the new tune makes it more fun to punch it more often!!!

 

I haven't even tried my 87 or 91 octane tunes yet---but might the next time I am doing a longish, boring interstate drive to save on gas $$ a bit.

 

 

Just ordered it !!!!! went for 93,91 and 89 but planning on using 93 mostly- you convinced me.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm not sure if I should chime in here, or, not. I've had a LOT of experience with underdrive pulleys and custom tunes, but no experience with the 3V 4.6L Shelby GT engine. My experience with all of this, was with 3 Mercury Marauders, one of which was the Kenny Brown #1x Vortech supercharged Marauder.

 

Okay...I'll add my humble opinon, for what it's worth.

 

UDPs...On the 4.6L 4V Marauder engine, the altenator/charging system, as well as the water pump was unaffected by UDPs in any way. The Marauder EEC commanded the A/C and Altenator to shut off under WOT, thus, "dim lights" and "warm air" (if A/C was on) complaints prospered on web sites. Truth was, this feature of the EEC could be reversed with a custom tune, leaving one, or, both "on" full time, including under WOT, as well as at idle. It could be fixed with a custom tune, by adjusting idle RPM.

 

Remember that "torque moves the car", and remember that the 4.6L 2/3/4V engine is a "square" (3.55 bore X 3.55 stroke) and nortoriously reserved in torque/power under 2500 RPM. UDPs allow the engine to spool up faster, and get into the 2500+ RPM powerband quicker, sooner. Over 5000 RPM, they provide little, if any, performance.

 

UDPs have shortcomings. Combine UDPs with a 4.6L 3V engine, a manual tranny with a 2:54 first gear ratio and a 3:55 rear gear, and you get a very brief 1st gear red line. Very brief, best be ready to shift like "right now", or, you risk hitting the rev limiter which shuts everything off, and you lose the race.

 

Presently, my rev limiter is 5700 RPM without UDPs, or, custom tuning and I know I am leaving some power on the table. I am new to this automobile, and still researching a balance. Still, I predict that moving the rev limiter up past 6000 RPM with custom tuning, and you are risking the bottom end of the engine. Even with a sloppy 4R70W auto tranny and loose 2800 RPM stall torque converter, this once cost me an engine. NEVER take a stock 4.6L engine past 6200 RPM. NEVER.

 

"Packaged" custom tunes in a hand-held tuner from anyone, SCT, Diablo, whomever...Need to be refined for your specific car with car-specific fine tuning from a custom tuner on a dyno local to you. Atmospheric conditions (altitude, temps, humidity, octane, ect) all affect a correct and cost effective, but SAFE performance tune.

 

Moweover, many packaged tunes develop more "seat of the pants" sensations by leaning out the A/F mixture. "Lean" will deliver more power, yes, but likewise develop more detonation with inferior fuels, i.e. "pump gas". You'll feel faster, and maybe see some lower ETs too. But, you'll be faster in reaching for your wallet for a new engine too.

 

"Been here, did this" for five freakin years and lots of cash. It's not a lightweight/casual/inexpensive mod if you want it done right, and SAFE.

 

Bottom line...Stay away from it all. Save your money for a blower kit of your choice.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm not sure if I should chime in here, or, not. I've had a LOT of experience with underdrive pulleys and custom tunes, but no experience with the 3V 4.6L Shelby GT engine. My experience with all of this, was with 3 Mercury Marauders, one of which was the Kenny Brown #1x Vortech supercharged Marauder.

 

Okay...I'll add my humble opinon, for what it's worth.

 

UDPs...On the 4.6L 4V Marauder engine, the altenator/charging system, as well as the water pump was unaffected by UDPs in any way. The Marauder EEC commanded the A/C and Altenator to shut off under WOT, thus, "dim lights" and "warm air" (if A/C was on) complaints prospered on web sites. Truth was, this feature of the EEC could be reversed with a custom tune, leaving one, or, both "on" full time, including under WOT, as well as at idle. It could be fixed with a custom tune, by adjusting idle RPM.

 

Remember that "torque moves the car", and remember that the 4.6L 2/3/4V engine is a "square" (3.55 bore X 3.55 stroke) and nortoriously reserved in torque/power under 2500 RPM. UDPs allow the engine to spool up faster, and get into the 2500+ RPM powerband quicker, sooner. Over 5000 RPM, they provide little, if any, performance.

 

UDPs have shortcomings. Combine UDPs with a 4.6L 3V engine, a manual tranny with a 2:54 first gear ratio and a 3:55 rear gear, and you get a very brief 1st gear red line. Very brief, best be ready to shift like "right now", or, you risk hitting the rev limiter which shuts everything off, and you lose the race.

 

Presently, my rev limiter is 5700 RPM without UDPs, or, custom tuning and I know I am leaving some power on the table. I am new to this automobile, and still researching a balance. Still, I predict that moving the rev limiter up past 6000 RPM with custom tuning, and you are risking the bottom end of the engine. Even with a sloppy 4R70W auto tranny and loose 2800 RPM stall torque converter, this once cost me an engine. NEVER take a stock 4.6L engine past 6200 RPM. NEVER.

 

"Packaged" custom tunes in a hand-held tuner from anyone, SCT, Diablo, whomever...Need to be refined for your specific car with car-specific fine tuning from a custom tuner on a dyno local to you. Atmospheric conditions (altitude, temps, humidity, octane, ect) all affect a correct and cost effective, but SAFE performance tune.

 

Moweover, many packaged tunes develop more "seat of the pants" sensations by leaning out the A/F mixture. "Lean" will deliver more power, yes, but likewise develop more detonation with inferior fuels, i.e. "pump gas". You'll feel faster, and maybe see some lower ETs too. But, you'll be faster in reaching for your wallet for a new engine too.

 

"Been here, did this" for five freakin years and lots of cash. It's not a lightweight/casual/inexpensive mod if you want it done right, and SAFE.

 

Bottom line...Stay away from it all. Save your money for a blower kit of your choice.

 

 

 

appreciate the input........... :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

 

appreciate the input........... :)

 

 

 

 

Yes we appreciate the thoughts , however these tunes have already been dyno tested and at least 6 people on this site have the tune and none have reported problems such as pinging or detonation which having a Mach 1 I know the 4 valves are more susceptible to . I do agree with you on the RPM's I would not go over 6000 , its not HP that kills the stock powered rods its RPM on a N/A application and you never want to bounce the engine off the rev limiter at high RPM's because the computor doesn't pull timing its pulls fuel which immediatlely causes a lean conditon , very bad on the rod bearings as well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm not sure if I should chime in here, or, not. I've had a LOT of experience with underdrive pulleys and custom tunes, but no experience with the 3V 4.6L Shelby GT engine. My experience with all of this, was with 3 Mercury Marauders, one of which was the Kenny Brown #1x Vortech supercharged Marauder.

 

Okay...I'll add my humble opinon, for what it's worth.

 

UDPs...On the 4.6L 4V Marauder engine, the altenator/charging system, as well as the water pump was unaffected by UDPs in any way. The Marauder EEC commanded the A/C and Altenator to shut off under WOT, thus, "dim lights" and "warm air" (if A/C was on) complaints prospered on web sites. Truth was, this feature of the EEC could be reversed with a custom tune, leaving one, or, both "on" full time, including under WOT, as well as at idle. It could be fixed with a custom tune, by adjusting idle RPM.

 

Remember that "torque moves the car", and remember that the 4.6L 2/3/4V engine is a "square" (3.55 bore X 3.55 stroke) and nortoriously reserved in torque/power under 2500 RPM. UDPs allow the engine to spool up faster, and get into the 2500+ RPM powerband quicker, sooner. Over 5000 RPM, they provide little, if any, performance.

 

UDPs have shortcomings. Combine UDPs with a 4.6L 3V engine, a manual tranny with a 2:54 first gear ratio and a 3:55 rear gear, and you get a very brief 1st gear red line. Very brief, best be ready to shift like "right now", or, you risk hitting the rev limiter which shuts everything off, and you lose the race.

 

Presently, my rev limiter is 5700 RPM without UDPs, or, custom tuning and I know I am leaving some power on the table. I am new to this automobile, and still researching a balance. Still, I predict that moving the rev limiter up past 6000 RPM with custom tuning, and you are risking the bottom end of the engine. Even with a sloppy 4R70W auto tranny and loose 2800 RPM stall torque converter, this once cost me an engine. NEVER take a stock 4.6L engine past 6200 RPM. NEVER.

 

"Packaged" custom tunes in a hand-held tuner from anyone, SCT, Diablo, whomever...Need to be refined for your specific car with car-specific fine tuning from a custom tuner on a dyno local to you. Atmospheric conditions (altitude, temps, humidity, octane, ect) all affect a correct and cost effective, but SAFE performance tune.

 

Moweover, many packaged tunes develop more "seat of the pants" sensations by leaning out the A/F mixture. "Lean" will deliver more power, yes, but likewise develop more detonation with inferior fuels, i.e. "pump gas". You'll feel faster, and maybe see some lower ETs too. But, you'll be faster in reaching for your wallet for a new engine too.

 

"Been here, did this" for five freakin years and lots of cash. It's not a lightweight/casual/inexpensive mod if you want it done right, and SAFE.

 

Bottom line...Stay away from it all. Save your money for a blower kit of your choice.

 

 

OK.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...
...