riharely Posted August 27, 2007 Report Share Posted August 27, 2007 :blink: Sorry if this is a repeat but I couldn't find the information in a search. Many of us have car parts now with Carroll's signature in black or silver Sharpie pen. My part is a billet fuse box cover signed which is now installed in the engine compartment. I was SO excited it was immediately mounted on the car. I do have some concern about the heat in the engine compartment, but still plan to drive the car! What is the best way ( a PROVEN method please don't guess! :blink: ) to protect the Sharpie marker without melting the signature? Best way to apply ? What product(s) should we AVOID or thing s to AVOID doing? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RogerS Posted August 27, 2007 Report Share Posted August 27, 2007 I will check with my friend who has a body shop today for you. I am thinking the same thing here. But I do think that clear coating would be the way to go. Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueshawk Posted August 27, 2007 Report Share Posted August 27, 2007 :blink: Sorry if this is a repeat but I couldn't find the information in a search. Many of us have car parts now with Carroll's signature in black or silver Sharpie pen. My part is a billet fuse box cover signed which is now installed in the engine compartment. I was SO excited it was immediately mounted on the car. I do have some concern about the heat in the engine compartment, but still plan to drive the car! What is the best way ( a PROVEN method please don't guess! :blink: ) to protect the Sharpie marker without melting the signature? Best way to apply ? What product(s) should we AVOID or thing s to AVOID doing? Thanks! In order to test the affects of heat, I'd try fixing a specimen with a cable tie near your fuse box. Write on it with your Sharpie and use that to test the coatings. I'd try a clear lacquer that most hobbie shops have. Guitarists who get their guitars signed by somebody famous often overspray the area it with clear lacquer. You can get gloss or matte. There may be other coatings too. Your could also use your oven but that would probably stink up the house. If I had an interior (dash, etc.) part signed, I'd give the matte lacquer a try. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattInDetroit Posted August 27, 2007 Report Share Posted August 27, 2007 :blink: Sorry if this is a repeat but I couldn't find the information in a search. Many of us have car parts now with Carroll's signature in black or silver Sharpie pen. My part is a billet fuse box cover signed which is now installed in the engine compartment. I was SO excited it was immediately mounted on the car. I do have some concern about the heat in the engine compartment, but still plan to drive the car! What is the best way ( a PROVEN method please don't guess! :blink: ) to protect the Sharpie marker without melting the signature? Best way to apply ? What product(s) should we AVOID or thing s to AVOID doing? Thanks! I would add that I would seriously not keep it installed in the car. I would use the stock cover and just put this one on at car shows etc. IMHO! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
riharely Posted August 27, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2007 I would add that I would seriously not keep it installed in the car. I would use the stock cover and just put this one on at car shows etc. IMHO! Yeah I'm starting to think that way now. I can get a stock fuse box cover from my dealer in a snap. However, I want to make sure it is protected. Nice meeting you at the Tasca show. -Tim- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RogerS Posted August 27, 2007 Report Share Posted August 27, 2007 Tim, Just got off the phone with my friend. He told me NOT to use lacquer. It tends to cloud up. You should use urethane. Mist 2 light coats and let it tac up between coats then a final coat. If you would like hook up with me and he will shoot it at his shop in Prov. Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTHERO Posted August 27, 2007 Report Share Posted August 27, 2007 Tim, Just got off the phone with my friend. He told me NOT to use lacquer. It tends to cloud up. You should use urethane. Mist 2 light coats and let it tac up between coats then a final coat. If you would like hook up with me and he will shoot it at his shop in Prov. Roger That makes sense, I would also practice on a few "scrap" Pieces with similar properties to make sure you can get it right before going to the real thing IMO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShelbyPilot Posted August 28, 2007 Report Share Posted August 28, 2007 Is urethane what automotive clear caoting is made of? If not what product is? I have a part in the process also. It will be very prominent and I want it to last a long time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mywickedshelby Posted August 28, 2007 Report Share Posted August 28, 2007 Most of these posts relate to exposed (to heat or the elements) signatures..... what would be best to protect a visor signature? As always, thanks in advance for your assistance my fine feathered forum friends. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
riharely Posted August 31, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2007 (bump) :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SGT1171 Posted August 31, 2007 Report Share Posted August 31, 2007 I would use caution with anything that dries slowly as it might react and lift or smear the signature. A light spray of laquer dries quickly and usually will not have time to smear, lift, etc. You can then recoat more heavily. Spraying will help prevent smearing. I don't have experience with urethane. Just my 2 cents. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
riharely Posted September 1, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2007 Saturday light project ..... I bought a can of Magic (brand) spray clear Enamel and tried it out on another piece on metal first. I misted it on very lightly and let it dry (about 15 minutes) between coats. Later after a good base was laid down I put on about 4-5 regular coats. It was a little scarey because it wouldn't be total clear until it dried between coats. (panic!... then relief!) The enamel looks good and I'm confident that it will hold up in the engine compartment. It isn't high heat paint, but the part is a fuse box cover and not on the motor itself. That is how it worked for me! -Tim- :D Get off the #$^%* computer and go out and drive your car! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RogerS Posted September 1, 2007 Report Share Posted September 1, 2007 Great news Tim.............yeah.............get out and enjoy that car.....................what a beautiful day for it. Too bad this weather was not last Saturday! I think I would have run out of room! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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