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Water Spots


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Gosh this was a BIG discussion some time ago. Someone mentioned Windex I think as a great solution (no pun intended) and there were others, I seem to remember vinegar and water solution as well. The old SAI forums will be moved soon but until then we'll have to hope someone with a better memory or more knowledge than I will chime in.

 

In the meantime here are some resources:

 

http://www.autodetail-school.com/detail-ti...ater-spots.html

 

http://en.allexperts.com/q/Auto-body-repai...pot-removed.htm

 

http://www.autopia-carcare.com/inf-paint-polish-clinic.html

 

Good luck!

-Jeff

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Water spots can be removed with Vinegar and a microfiber towel.Just make sure the surface is clean and in the shade..If the spots dont come off then the spots are in the clearcoat. Theres two types of spots, Type One which means its just in the clearcoat and Type Two which means its thru the clearcoat and in the base coat.Hopefuly its just on top of the clearcoat. What minimizes waterspots is a detail spray after each wash.A waterspot is like a liquid magnifying glass and uses the sun to burn itself into the paint.

Hope this helps.

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I seem to remember vinegar and water solution as well. -Jeff

Vinegar and water will remove water spots...HOWEVER...I don't know how safe that is on our car's finish. In other words, I've only used it on glass with success...I've not tried it on paint. I'd highly recommend doing some research first and testing on an inconspicuous spot.

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Vinegar and water will remove water spots...HOWEVER...I don't know how safe that is on our car's finish. In other words, I've only used it on glass with success...I've not tried it on paint. I'd highly recommend doing some research first and testing on an inconspicuous spot.

 

This is also what the resources I posted, that are specific to cars, say as well. I try not to post stuff like that without first checking someplace. I would hate to be responsible for someone ruining their cars finish.

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Yea but short of going to an OEM web site, that asks you to use their products, there has to be a common solution, not brand ready, to fix, right? Like the vinegar and water solution and others. I can pretty much guess every wax maker will have "their" method and products.. I would rather a common method if possible! Just my .02

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Yea but short of going to an OEM web site, that asks you to use their products, there has to be a common solution, not brand ready, to fix, right? Like the vinegar and water solution and others. I can pretty much guess every wax maker will have "their" method and products.. I would rather a common method if possible! Just my .02

 

Does anyone know if this will work on waterspots in/on the silver stripes?

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This is also what the resources I posted, that are specific to cars, say as well. I try not to post stuff like that without first checking someplace. I would hate to be responsible for someone ruining their cars finish.

Jeff, sorry if I came across insinuating you didn't do your research...that wasn't where i was coming from. I didn't read your links...just was giving my opinion. All is good. :headspin:

 

Dave

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Your welcome. I went to a detailing class yesterday at Meguiars and they covered this subject. So I figured I would post it up here to help others. I do not know if my post helped or not, it just gives more reading and ways to cure the problem.

 

Gib

Did they give you any tips on what is the best to use on our cars? the stipes and everything...pass down some info please....

 

Mark

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I do not have a SGT so I never asked about stripes. I have a black 07 GT though. They pretty much went with the following to make the Black Mustangs that were there sparkle.....

Step 1 Wash with a quality car wash solution using a microfiber sponge/mitt.

Step 2 Dry car completely.

Step 3 If you have impurities stuck to the surface(rub your hand over a clean car if it feels like glass you do not need to do this. If it feels gritty then use this).....Meguiars Clay Bar kit

If you have Swirls, use Scratch X or use Meguiars Professional line Number 80. It is reccomended to use a DA Polisher as it is alot easier.

Step 4 After claying/removing swirls make sure that all residue is off the car and it is dry.

Step 5 Use the new NXT Tech Wax 2.0 For the ultimate shine.

Step 6 Sit back and enjoy the shine!

 

If you goto their forums the info there will help in all aspects. The process described above is just the basics of what he did yesterday.

Yesterday's class used a Black 06 GT as the demo car. It had alot of swirls and looked bad in the sunlight. The thread with the pics and what was used on it is located here......Click Here

 

I highly recommend that you SoCal guys get together and schedule a date there. It is a free class. Until they sell you on their products...LOL It is not a sales pitch but it shows you how to use their products correctly to achieve quality results.

 

BTW: They detailed the Batmobile for Barrett Jackson!!!

 

Hope this helps

Gib

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In my experience, If you have the type I spot (surface);

You probably maintain a clean car. The spot should not be deep into the clear-coat. Meguires is in business to sell their products, as is any other company. I've found that if you soak a micro-fiber cloth and let it sit on the spot for about 10 minutes, the spot will wipe away without any chemicals.

If the spot is into or below the clear-coat, this needs "chemicals" like the web-site suggests.

I think most of us hand-wash and dry our cars, so sitting water spots that allow penetration should not be a major problem...

Same thing for the stripes.

My .02

 

Dan

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Dan, I hand wash my car but observed spots on the stripes which have not come out. I know the car sat on a dealer's lot for months before purchase and wonder if rain or water from sprinklers was allowed to sit on the car. I used a cleaner/wax to no avail. The spots are still there. There have been others commenting in the past how they have had to go to SAI for replacement.

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This will be an odd reply, bear with me?

 

I'm claiming ownership of the "vinegar rinse" 411.

 

I've been spouting its benefits over the Internet since the advent of paint with clear coat. I've owned seven black automobiles since 1992, and this technique has never failed me. The black paint is one layer, actually very dull in it's native state. But, the clearcoat is a clear layer above that, and needs to be dealt with in a different manner and proceedure.

 

I learned this growing up in an Irish home, where my father taught me how to clean windows. About age 10, 1962. Anyone else here remember the family chore of cleaning windows with vinegar and newspaper every Saturday morning? Okay, guess not...If so, remember the squeek? That's clean! But, we can't use newspaper on our cars, right? If you don't remember this experience, try it out on your own. Clean a window with vinegar and newspaper until it squeeks? That's clean!

 

Anyway...First, wash the car with any soap you desire, custom blends from your FLAPS, or, simple dish soap. Same stuff you use in the sink washing dishes after dinner. (does anyone do this anymore?).

 

The "grease cutting" soaps are okay on the finish, perhaps preferred as they cut through road soil. Wash it, soap it up good, like you're in the shower with the most beautiful woman in the world. Then rinse it with cold water and rinse it a lot, and I mean a lot. Get into all the nooks, cracks and crevases, a light powered high pressure clear and cold spray works fine, just keep it under 100 PSI.

 

Then, prepare a wash of warm (100 degrees) water and 25 to 50 percent solution of white vinegar, a common household product use in cooking. The more often you use this mixture, the less you will need to for the desired results. Use a seperate mitt, one not used for washing with soap, or cleanig the wheels. A mitt just for this.

 

This vinegar solution will cut through the soap residue all soaps leave behind and I don't care what soap you use, they all do. This residue is more a "magnet" of sorts, it attracts dust and dirt almost as quickly as it appears to wash that away.

 

What you're looking for here is "squeeky clean" wash, so, wash with the vinegar rinse as vigorously and dilligently as you wash with soap. Get it in everywhere, all the same nooks, crannies and crevases. Rinse again with clear, cold water, just like before.

 

Now you can towel dry, microfiber is good, a high quality chamois is better. I usually pull out the leaf blower, just a few passes for the chunky stuff.

 

Towel it down, stand back, and appreciate that your car is squeeky clean.

 

BTW, this will destroy most waxes, which is a waste of time IMHO anyway. Hit it with a coat of Turttle Wax, or, Meguire's, but don't spend a lot of time and money on this. Spray bottle and a rag work fine. Besides, it will be gone with your next vinegar rinse.

 

No risk or harm to stripes, decals, stickers, badges, chrome, ect. Vinegar isn't a solvent Hell, we eat the stuff on salads, right? What can it do to your paint, that it can't do to your stomach?

 

Great on chromes/polished surfaces too, keep a spray bottle and rag on hand for fingerprints, they are just grease too.

 

Works for me, gents, carry on...

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This will be an odd reply, bear with me?

 

I'm claiming ownership of the "vinegar rinse" 411.

 

I've been spouting its benefits over the Internet since the advent of paint with clear coat. I've owned seven black automobiles since 1992, and this technique has never failed me. The black paint is one layer, actually very dull in it's native state. But, the clearcoat is a clear layer above that, and needs to be dealt with in a different manner and proceedure.

 

I learned this growing up in an Irish home, where my father taught me how to clean windows. About age 10, 1962. Anyone else here remember the family chore of cleaning windows with vinegar and newspaper every Saturday morning? Okay, guess not...If so, remember the squeek? That's clean! But, we can't use newspaper on our cars, right? If you don't remember this experience, try it out on your own. Clean a window with vinegar and newspaper until it squeeks? That's clean!

 

Anyway...First, wash the car with any soap you desire, custom blends from your FLAPS, or, simple dish soap. Same stuff you use in the sink washing dishes after dinner. (does anyone do this anymore?).

 

The "grease cutting" soaps are okay on the finish, perhaps preferred as they cut through road soil. Wash it, soap it up good, like you're in the shower with the most beautiful woman in the world. Then rinse it with cold water and rinse it a lot, and I mean a lot. Get into all the nooks, cracks and crevases, a light powered high pressure clear and cold spray works fine, just keep it under 100 PSI.

 

Then, prepare a wash of warm (100 degrees) water and 25 to 50 percent solution of white vinegar, a common household product use in cooking. The more often you use this mixture, the less you will need to for the desired results. Use a seperate mitt, one not used for washing with soap, or cleanig the wheels. A mitt just for this.

 

This vinegar solution will cut through the soap residue all soaps leave behind and I don't care what soap you use, they all do. This residue is more a "magnet" of sorts, it attracts dust and dirt almost as quickly as it appears to wash that away.

 

What you're looking for here is "squeeky clean" wash, so, wash with the vinegar rinse as vigorously and dilligently as you wash with soap. Get it in everywhere, all the same nooks, crannies and crevases. Rinse again with clear, cold water, just like before.

 

Now you can towel dry, microfiber is good, a high quality chamois is better. I usually pull out the leaf blower, just a few passes for the chunky stuff.

 

Towel it down, stand back, and appreciate that your car is squeeky clean.

 

BTW, this will destroy most waxes, which is a waste of time IMHO anyway. Hit it with a coat of Turttle Wax, or, Meguire's, but don't spend a lot of time and money on this. Spray bottle and a rag work fine. Besides, it will be gone with your next vinegar rinse.

 

No risk or harm to stripes, decals, stickers, badges, chrome, ect. Vinegar isn't a solvent Hell, we eat the stuff on salads, right? What can it do to your paint, that it can't do to your stomach?

 

Great on chromes/polished surfaces too, keep a spray bottle and rag on hand for fingerprints, they are just grease too.

 

Works for me, gents, carry on...

wont your car smell like vinegar after you do this? :ohsnap:

pickled shelby :P

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I use a warmed up white vinegar and a cotton or microfiber towel and let it soak on the spot for a bit before trying to remove it.

 

Most mineral deposits left behind (the spot) are neutralized with acid...hence, the vinegar is perfect with about a 5% solution.

 

The opposite is true for those dreaded summertime bugs that are so hard to remove and stain your finish.

A bug's "splat" is mostly acid based, and what neutralizing acid? Sodium, so if you make a nice paste of baking soda on a wet cotton towel and very gently dab it on the effected area, let stand a few minutes, then come back with a wet cotton towel, they come off with no effort at all, and if the bug hasn't been allowed to remain on the finish for very long ( a day or two) it will not hurt your finish at all. Rinse very well to remove all baking soda and then wash as normal.

 

But remember when you do either of these....as with any other solution (like tar remover, kerosine or JetA) You'll need to rewax or ICE the effected areas and build it back up there.

 

I also use the MR. Clean cleaning system and have great luck with it. But, like some on here, my car doesn't see the rain and I always handwash and dry it.

 

Hope this helps

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as i put in the origanal Shelby forum , the best thing i found to shine and remove the water spots was ( KozaK ) auto dry wash they are 3.8 sq ft. its in a red plastic package with a camel on the front , keep your eyes open for them at like craigen , auto zone , napa ect. i tried sevral things to get rid of the spots cause i have extreamly hard water that was leavings my baby all spotted !!!

 

if any one has found something that works better let me know please !!!

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frankieboo69, Theres a few ways to tackle your hardwater problem,

1. Use a soap just for hard water like Meguairs NXT wash.This soap helps with hard water.There are others just not available everywhere.

 

2.Use a filter on your garden hose during the rinse cycle.Do not use Mr.Clean Autodry, the filter system is just too small for a weekly wash.Griot's Garage sells a nice one for

$110.Not cheap but works real well.You probably could find cheaper if you search. This filter is for serious enthusiasts.Ive seen it clean up horrible well water on my details.

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  • 4 weeks later...
I have used Mr. Clean and have not had any problems. Has any one used a leaf blower to dry their car??

 

Thanks for all of the tips. Have to try the vinegar. As far as drying the car, I never use a towel; I use the air compressor at about 75 psi. Water just rolls off.

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