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ramps ??


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some have been using wood planking to approach the ramps and then drive up. I bought a special low clearance jack at wal mart and jack stands. The jack I bought has a 3.3 inch clearance and raises the vehicle to 18 inches. The floor jack and jack stands are rated at 3 ton (6,000 pounds).

 

The jack was only 68.00 and sold under the names of Black Jack and Nascar.

 

Good Luck with whatever you decide to use.

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what kind of ramps do you guys use to get under the shelby and what size (length),without the front facia hiting the ramp and were do you get them.

 

 

These are nice and will work.

 

 

https://www.dambachramps.com/scripts/prodVi...luminum%20Ramps

 

 

They are out of my price league though.

 

I bought a set of composite ramps for $35 at a local parts store and just use a 2ft long 2x10 before it to bump the front end up some.

 

Works great.

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what kind of ramps do you guys use to get under the shelby and what size (length),without the front facia hiting the ramp and were do you get them.

 

Look in the towing instructions in your owner's manual. There's a trick to getting them up any ramp, which will also explain why they always have blocks of wood on the back of flatbed tow trucks.

 

I've had problems with low clearance vehicles not so much getting them started as getting them over the hump.

 

Personally, I prefer jack stands. I support the suspension (unless I'm working those parts), and put a safety under the frame as well.

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I just drive up onto boards (kind of tricky) to get clearnace, and then use my hydraulic jack. If I were buying ramps, however, I think I would check these out...

 

http://raceramps.com/

 

Or I would get one of these....

 

http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog.jsp?L1...0&SKU=77739

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Look in the towing instructions in your owner's manual. There's a trick to getting them up any ramp, which will also explain why they always have blocks of wood on the back of flatbed tow trucks.

 

I've had problems with low clearance vehicles not so much getting them started as getting them over the hump.

 

Personally, I prefer jack stands. I support the suspension (unless I'm working those parts), and put a safety under the frame as well.

 

What are the recommended locations for the jack stands? I read on another thread where some guy placed his in the wrong location and bent his frame a bit.

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This is what I build and use now on my lowered (2"F, 1 3/4"R) New Edge Stang, they're made of 2 x 10's and here's how-to from www.mustangworld.com; http://www.mustangworld.com/ourpics/News/mwramps/index.htm. I've been using these for over 6 years without an issue, and they'll work just fine on the SGT once it gets here...

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What are the recommended locations for the jack stands? I read on another thread where some guy placed his in the wrong location and bent his frame a bit.

Yeah, you can do that with any car.

 

The closer you place the jack to the middle of the car, the more of the car you are lifting, PLUS you get closer to the weakest point of the frame, which is between the front and rear axles. At exactly the balance point (closer to the front axle than the rear), both wheels come off the ground on that side, so you have half the weight of the car on just a couple inches of jack. You can bend things like that...

 

There are jack points (for the non-existant jack!) six or so inches in from the tires. The frame is notched there. Just inboard from that (in the front, anyway) is a nice solid frame member. Put the jack under the frame, and put the jack stand at the notch. There is plastic stuff and light metal near both of these points that you want to avoid.

 

I always look for a frame member as far forward or back as you can get (this reduces the load at the lift point). Like I said, I prefer the suspension when I can get away with it. Then you're basically raising the car right where it is strongest.

 

Also, I don't try to get the car all the way up in one go. Put it partway up on the first stand, do the other side as high as you need, then come back and bring it level on the first side. It's a lot more stable, and less stress on you and the jack doing it that way.

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This is what I build and use now on my lowered (2"F, 1 3/4"R) New Edge Stang, they're made of 2 x 10's and here's how-to from www.mustangworld.com; http://www.mustangworld.com/ourpics/News/mwramps/index.htm. I've been using these for over 6 years without an issue, and they'll work just fine on the SGT once it gets here...

Now that's a very good idea! I like that!

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I bought some plastic ramps for about $30 at Pep Boys and used them to install my watts link. No problem with clearance. I could try to find the brand if anyone needs it. I then put jack stands under the rear end in case the the ramps gave out.

 

 

Those sound like the ones I bought, are they 2 pc?

 

I couldn't think of the name.

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Those sound like the ones I bought, are they 2 pc?

 

I couldn't think of the name.

Yes the ramp seperates from the flat part and they have a little yellow piece that pops up to help keep the car from rolling off, though I still use blocks. They are kind of hard to get apart so I leave them in the yard by my trash cans. If you take them apart they are pretty compact.

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  • 3 months later...
Now that's a very good idea! I like that!

 

 

Here's a pic of what the SGT looks like on those ramps. As you can see, I can almost slide a 5 gallon bucket under there. I built them to the exact specifications in that link. $35 for the lumber at Lowe's.

 

http://www.mustangworld.com/ourpics/News/mwramps/index.htm

 

sgtramps.JPG

sgtramps.JPG

sgtramps.JPG

sgtramps.JPG

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