Questions by dummies: post any question here!

[hansenisu]

Just got a used 2012 with 7000 miles on the clock but I have a stupid question. The car is difficult to start for some reason. The manual tranny I came from just required that you push in the clutch and turn the key. When I do that with this car, I get nothing - no cranking or anything. Everything is powered up in the car when the key is turned on so it should not be a battery issue.

 

I follow this sequence - parking brake on, clutch pedal to the floor, turn key to on and wait until the gauges come back to zero, then try to crank. Nothing. I have to do this sequence 6 or seven times before it will crank and kick off. I can hear the fuel pump start up when I turn the key to the on position so that should not be the issue either.

 

Maybe a fob problem?

 

 

There was a problem with a sensor in the interlock system that was bad and was replaced under warranty - But it was an even easier fix - aftermarket security system was acting up. Disabled it and everything is good.

[svt13]

I suspect the recommendation to put the transmission into neutral before starting is an extra safety precaution prior to starting. Perhaps the thinking is that, after the engine starts, you could inadvertently take your foot off the clutch pedal before you intended. Our GT500s will start in any gear as long as the clutch pedal is depressed.

 

Since I was driving clutch vehicles before the clutch/starter interlocks were common, I have always put the transmission into neutral prior to starting, just a habit.

 

For parking, I rarely use the emergency/parking brake unless I am parking on a noticeable incline. I always park the car with the transmission in reverse which is another habit I picked up when I started driving.

 

 

Why in reverse? If I do use the parking brake and put it in first am I going to warp my rotors like the FGT guy said?

[hector02]

Hi everyone,

Im having trouble with my tires, I have about 510whp and the

Stock tires don't help. I've bought MT DR for the drag strip, but I would like

an every day tire that give me grip.

Any suggestion? I'm from Puerto Rico so cold weather won't be trouble

 

Thanks

[2010KonaBlueGT]

Hi everyone,

Im having trouble with my tires, I have about 510whp and the

Stock tires don't help. I've bought MT DR for the drag strip, but I would like

an every day tire that give me grip.

Any suggestion? I'm from Puerto Rico so cold weather won't be trouble

 

Thanks

 

What year is your car? 18 or 19 inch tires on it?

 

Go to just about any "R" compound tire and you'll pick up grip...at the cost of longevity.

 

 

Phill

[hector02]

 

 

What year is your car? 18 or 19 inch tires on it?

 

Go to just about any "R" compound tire and you'll pick up grip...at the cost of longevity.

 

 

Phill

 

Hi phill,

My car is 2012 SVTPP

[Helix]

Since it is Halloween; rise from the dead topic!

 

Actually, I was just curious....does anyone have suggestions for rear window louvers for 99-04 New edge Mustangs that don't have any issues with them; that is, no odd fitting pieces, no gaps, etc...

[Bookwyrm]

So as a newbie to owning a supercharged car, I was wondering if it's normal for there to be a clicking sound from the engine on a 2010 GT500? I can't pinpoint where exactly its coming from, but its definitely at a very regular frequency and seems to always be there when the car is idling.

The dealership says its nothing to worry about, but I've found their service department to be more than a little suspect in the past, especially on potential warranty issues.

[CMA212]

So as a newbie to owning a supercharged car, I was wondering if it's normal for there to be a clicking sound from the engine on a 2010 GT500? I can't pinpoint where exactly its coming from, but its definitely at a very regular frequency and seems to always be there when the car is idling.

The dealership says its nothing to worry about, but I've found their service department to be more than a little suspect in the past, especially on potential warranty issues.

 

 

I have a 12' and my car does the same thing, I only have 6k miles on her. At first I thought it was a valve issue and took it to my dealer and they told me not to worry about it.

[2010KonaBlueGT]

So as a newbie to owning a supercharged car, I was wondering if it's normal for there to be a clicking sound from the engine on a 2010 GT500? I can't pinpoint where exactly its coming from, but its definitely at a very regular frequency and seems to always be there when the car is idling.

The dealership says its nothing to worry about, but I've found their service department to be more than a little suspect in the past, especially on potential warranty issues.

 

 

It's most likely your injectors clicking. Very pronounced at idle, with the hood open.

 

 

Phill

[Boidster]

That noise will be completely drowned out when you stomp on the Go Pedal, so I wouldn't worry about it. The only sound from under the hood that should concern you is a rising-pitch whine as you approach redline. And when I say "concern you" I mean "cause cramps in your face from grinning".

[Bookwyrm]

 

 

It's most likely your injectors clicking. Very pronounced at idle, with the hood open.

 

 

Phill

 

 

Thanks, Phil! That makes me feel a lot better coming from someone who I know has a clue! :D It sounded too regular to be a valve problem and not be getting a check engine light, but I wanted to be sure.

 

-- Les

[Bookwyrm]

That noise will be completely drowned out when you stomp on the Go Pedal, so I wouldn't worry about it. The only sound from under the hood that should concern you is a rising-pitch whine as you approach redline. And when I say "concern you" I mean "cause cramps in your face from grinning".

 

 

I was just concerned because a friend of mine had a valve cover problem that made similar sounds (though not nearly as rhythimc) on a ~2001 GT.

As for the grin-inducing whine, you need to push the pedal harder if you're only hearing it approaching redline

[Boidster]

That is a good point. I must push the pedal harder.

[ShelbyGT5HUN]

How necessary is a dyno in the tuning process? Can you really get an email tune that will work with a car, sight unseen? Are all cars the same that one tune will work on every 2010 GT500? Is the dyno just for dialing in those last 5rwhp?

 

Is it as easy as saying, "I've got a 2.6 pulley, x pipe, and intake. Give me a tune for 91 and 93 octane." I get a file emailed to me, load it into the SCT, and then flash the car?

[twobjshelbys]

How necessary is a dyno in the tuning process? Can you really get an email tune that will work with a car, sight unseen? Are all cars the same that one tune will work on every 2010 GT500? Is the dyno just for dialing in those last 5rwhp?

 

Is it as easy as saying, "I've got a 2.6 pulley, x pipe, and intake. Give me a tune for 91 and 93 octane." I get a file emailed to me, load it into the SCT, and then flash the car?

 

Only a dyno can get you the data you need to make a proper tune since in the end, it is all about establishing the right power curve and air/fuel ratio and getting all of those to intercept. If you buy a canned tune, it was developed on a dyno.

 

I don't consider dynos to be very repeatable. I see power curves of sequential runs where the last is bigger than the first. That car didn't make new HP since due to heat soak it will usually be less. Most likely the uncertainty in the instrument gave it more. Runs on spearate days are subject to differences in weather (temperature, humidity). This is the problem with most "before and after" runs.

 

In essence when I look at dyno sheets as long as the consecutive runs are close and of the same general shape just average them. I look more for anomolies in dyno curves where the A/F ratio might go through a bad table transition.

[ShelbyGT5HUN]

How many minutes does it take to reflash the car with the SCT Tuner? I have another tune on my SCT, and I want to load it into the car. I've never seen this done.

Edited June 6, 2014 by ShelbyGT5HUN

[gotoatz]

How many minutes does it take to reflash the car with the SCT Tuner? I have another tune on my SCT, and I want to load it into the car. I've never seen this done.

 

About 2 minutes, give or take........

[ShelbyGT5HUN]

How do you convert RWHP to HP, assuming a 15% loss through the drivetrain?

 

475rwhp / 0.85 = 559hp ?

 

or

 

(475rwhp x 0.15 ) + 475 = 546hp ?

 

THANKS! Glad this thread exists!

[twobjshelbys]

 

 

475rwhp / 0.85 = 559hp ?

 

 

This one. Since the loss would be calculated as

 

y = x - (.15x) = .85x

 

To solve for x divide both sides by .85

[ShelbyGT5HUN]

When you say "this one", and you quoted my first equation, that's the one you are referring to? Or do you mean the one you typed up?

[twobjshelbys]

When you say "this one", and you quoted my first equation, that's the one you are referring to? Or do you mean the one you typed up?

 

They are the same. In my response I solved it so you could see how you get the simplified equation you used.

[ShelbyGT5HUN]

Ok makes sense now. Thanks!

[ShelbyGT5HUN]

Those that use the 5.8's TVS supercharger, has anyone come up with a nice way of "covering up" the big "5.8" that is cast into it? I am thinking of possibly going with a used '13/'14 unit, but I don't like how glaring the 5.8 would look under the hoods. Especially when I have a 5.4!

 

Thanks!

[drshotty]

Hey guys, just a quick question. Ive seen the TeamShelby across the top of the windshields on a few shelbys. How do i order that? I just want some sort of window decal on the car that says teamshelby. Id like something that says @TeamShelby but i haven't seen one of those decals. Thanks.

[Robert M]

Hey guys, just a quick question. Ive seen the TeamShelby across the top of the windshields on a few shelbys. How do i order that? I just want some sort of window decal on the car that says teamshelby. Id like something that says @TeamShelby but i haven't seen one of those decals. Thanks.

 

Here is what Shelby offers...............

 

http://www.shelbystore.com/product-p/P1820.htm

 

 

 

 

R

[drshotty]

alright another dumb question. I have the opportunity to buy a 2.3l tvs off of a 13 gt500 with elbow for 1400$ and put onto my 10 gt500. would that be a good deal.. i would just need to have a tune done in order to install the new blower correct?

[2010KonaBlueGT]

alright another dumb question. I have the opportunity to buy a 2.3l tvs off of a 13 gt500 with elbow for 1400$ and put onto my 10 gt500. would that be a good deal.. i would just need to have a tune done in order to install the new blower correct?

 

That's a good deal for the Ford 2.3 TVS. Well, okay...a "decent" deal. It's right about what they've been selling for.

 

There's a gun running in Denver/Bandimere with a Ford 2.3L TVS on a '10 or '11 (I don't remember which) and he's running his STOCK tune. No problems what so ever and was running the quickest times of any GT500 at the track. It was at either last years or year before Ford Fun Weekend. Jeff Jackoby <sp?> (Team Shelby Mountain Region director) can probably give you his exact ET's and more information since he talked to the guy and was the one that told me what he was running.

 

Pretty sure it was year BEFORE last.

 

 

Phill

[drshotty]

Phil while you're on here, how do you like your mgw shifter? compared to stock

[2010KonaBlueGT]

Phil while you're on here, how do you like your mgw shifter? compared to stock

 

 

Aw man, I LOVE it.

 

Initially/originally, I *was* having trouble finding 5th gear after adding the MGW but I just recently (yeah, after FIVE YEARS!) found out my reverse lock out solenoid was AFU since it was brand new, and *that* is what made it necessary to "hunt" for the 5th & 6th gear gates. I have a video of a run at Mojave last April that shows me "hunting" around for the 5th gear gate and only getting 166 MPH from the lost time I took to find it. There is a spring inside of the solenoid that pushes the cog out and keeps you from pushing the lever over into the R gate. I found it had somehow fallen out of the bore which made it lay across the bore and keep it from locking out REVERSE. But once I found it and fixed it, it's just as easy to hit 5th and 6th as it is to hit 1st and 2nd. And 3rd/4th are just as easy. The shifter is a dream, wish I would'a found the problem long ago but I didn't even know I had a problem until one time when I "buzzed" the reverse gear when trying to put it into 5th driving down the highway. OOPS! It was then that I realized it wasn't locking ot and that's why I was having to hunt for 5th instead of just stuffing it into gear.

 

And in fact, the reason I got the MGW in the fist place was because of the stock shifters problem hitting 3rd and 4th (mostly 3rd). With the MGW, going from 2nd to 3rd is just like a old Muncie or BW 4 speed. There are NO missed shifts, NO hitting 5th by mistake, nice POSITIVE shifts in all gears and best of all....TOTALLY adjustable.

 

I was going to put a Barton it after testing one at the Ford Mustang 50th in Las Vegas last summer but once I found the problem with the lock-out solenoid, I would think of it.

 

Then when MGW came ot with the Gen II GT500 shifter I was thinking about it again. But it's not adjusable (throw) like the Gen I is so NO DICE.

 

I'm 100% satisfied with the MGW Gen I shifter and would do it again if I bought another GT500 (over the Gen II AND the Barton).

 

The Barton IS a nice shifter. It feels more like the stock Mustang 5.0 shifter, as in SMOOOTH going into gear. I like the "notchy" feel (I call it "POSITIVE" feel) of the MGW over the stock or Barton. I LIKE the "click click" I get when shifting into a gear. It lets me know I'm in gear, not hoping I'm in gear.

 

 

HTH,

 

Phill

[ShelbyGT5HUN]

Ive got a Gen 1, and love it. I thought about upgrading, but I don't have any issues with the Gen 1. SOLID is the word that describes this shifter. The stock one caused me so many problems: 1) engaging 1st at a stop and 2) revving 1st out to redline, and not getting 2nd sometimes. No issues now. Oh and ADD THE AMSOIL ATF!! Fixes all cold shifting notchiness.