mullens Posted November 10, 2009 Report Share Posted November 10, 2009 I missed that part the first time I read your post. I'll tell you this....my stops in my Z06 are not suicidal in any way. That's the only car I'd upgrade to.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LuckySnake Posted November 11, 2009 Report Share Posted November 11, 2009 Hello Dan, I'm replying back to post #60. I don't have near your experiance with high performance auto brakes, but I'm a mechanic/inspector and have good experiance (many years) with carbon aircraft brakes and can easily identify faulty brakes and/or a POS. The Cmax pads I installed to my GT500 are nice. The design of the pads seem to be the same as the stockers. I understand the pad material is different and after inspecting the stock Brembos with only 5000 mostly easy miles, I'm glad I switched to the Cmax. I took detailed pix. Hopefully I will have the time and money to track my car someday, and put some of your companies brakes on my car. Right now I need to be gratefull for what I do have and be smart about the parts I install. If your offering a competitive pad for my application, I'll put them on and try em out. Quick Edit: The Cmax rear brake pads have design improvements over the stockers. Fronts are the same except ceramic. Biggest improvement is about 90% less dust on my wheels Thanks, Blayne Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enormous Posted November 11, 2009 Report Share Posted November 11, 2009 I installed the A-Zone C-max pad yesterday with the assistance of TS member "1sweetazzgt500". Normally my nice Boze rims get slaughtered with brake dust after a short drive on the street. I have burned up a half tank of gas in 2 days and not noticed much brake dust on the Boze rims, which is good. It still stops the same as the stock pad during my regular city driving, I might add. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STILLEN Posted November 11, 2009 Report Share Posted November 11, 2009 Hello Dan, I'm replying back to post #60. I don't have near your experiance with high performance auto brakes, but I'm a mechanic/inspector and have good experiance (many years) with carbon aircraft brakes and can easily identify faulty brakes and/or a POS. The Cmax pads I installed to my GT500 are nice. The design of the pads seem to be the same as the stockers. I understand the pad material is different and after inspecting the stock Brembos with only 5000 mostly easy miles, I'm glad I switched to the Cmax. I took detailed pix. Hopefully I will have the time and money to track my car someday, and put some of your companies brakes on my car. Right now I need to be gratefull for what I do have and be smart about the parts I install. If your offering a competitive pad for my application, I'll put them on and try em out. Quick Edit: The Cmax rear brake pads have design improvements over the stockers. Fronts are the same except ceramic. Biggest improvement is about 90% less dust on my wheels Thanks, Blayne Blayne, If you accomplished your goal with the Autozone pads, that's great. I can certainly understand wanting to reduce the brake dust, even though I wouldn't recommend the pads that you chose. Give me a call when you're ready to track the car or even if you start driving it hard, and i'll help you see what your brakes are capable of. Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasShelby Posted November 12, 2009 Report Share Posted November 12, 2009 My Porterfield pads have worked great, massively reduced dust and were a breeze to put in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cubican Posted November 12, 2009 Report Share Posted November 12, 2009 I had my tires rotaded today and heres a pic of my front rim after 10k with the A-Zone C-Max pads. the last time I detail my wheels was about 10K ago and I have 19K on the C-max pads, brakes look and feel great, The Ford tech is very impress with the C-max -pads !!!! My car is a D&D I dont track my car but I have done many auto-X with the C-max and Im very pleased with the product. These tred was never intended for track cars, but it was directed for the problem of " DUST ON WHEELS" I found my solution and many others as well. Cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LuckySnake Posted November 12, 2009 Report Share Posted November 12, 2009 I had my tires rotaded today and heres a pic of my front rim after 10k with the A-Zone C-Max pads. the last time I detail my wheels was about 10K ago and I have 19K on the C-max pads, brakes look and feel great, The Ford tech is very impress with the C-max -pads !!!! My car is a D&D I dont track my car but I have done many auto-X with the C-max and Im very pleased with the product. These tred was never intended for track cars, but it was directed for the problem of " DUST ON WHEELS" I found my solution and many others as well. Cheers. I appreciate the good info am glad I switched to the C-Max pads. My wallet thanks you too! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6-Speed Posted November 13, 2009 Report Share Posted November 13, 2009 I had my tires rotaded today and heres a pic of my front rim after 10k with the A-Zone C-Max pads. the last time I detail my wheels was about 10K ago and I have 19K on the C-max pads, brakes look and feel great, The Ford tech is very impress with the C-max -pads !!!! My car is a D&D I dont track my car but I have done many auto-X with the C-max and Im very pleased with the product. These tred was never intended for track cars, but it was directed for the problem of " DUST ON WHEELS" I found my solution and many others as well. Cheers. That's outstanding! Did you look at the rotors to see if there was any abnormal or substantial wear? I've heard ceramic pads are tough on rotors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cubican Posted November 13, 2009 Report Share Posted November 13, 2009 That's outstanding! Did you look at the rotors to see if there was any abnormal or substantial wear? I've heard ceramic pads are tough on rotors.Im running the baer rotors and they look brand new, and thats after 19k of D&D driving. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cubican Posted November 13, 2009 Report Share Posted November 13, 2009 Glad I can help, and to be honest if the C-Max where price like the hawks, the C-Max still be my choice . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LuckySnake Posted November 13, 2009 Report Share Posted November 13, 2009 Glad I can help, and to be honest if the C-Max where price like the hawks, the C-Max still be my choice . Some people honestly beleive if they pay an extra high price, the product must be superior and this couldn't be further from the truth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6-Speed Posted November 14, 2009 Report Share Posted November 14, 2009 Were you able to install the front pads without removing the caliper and resetting the piston? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tispco Posted November 14, 2009 Report Share Posted November 14, 2009 Were you able to install the front pads without removing the caliper and resetting the piston? The pads are easy to replace. I've done it three times in the last month : ( I wish this thread started a bit earlier! IMO, the toughest part is jacking up the car and removing the wheels. The caliper does not have to be removed, but the pistons do need to be reset. They are pretty easy to push back in. I used a closed end wrench on each piston and pryed against the very edge of the rotor. Just be careful not to damage the rubber gasket around each piston. If you are removing the OEM pads, I strongly recommend wearing a mask. The brake dust is bad stuff and it will be everywhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LuckySnake Posted November 14, 2009 Report Share Posted November 14, 2009 Were you able to install the front pads without removing the caliper and resetting the piston? The front calipers don't need to come off, simply take a small punch and knock the pins out, make sure you have them all the way back in way after the new pads are in. I don't think anyone's instructions say anything about reusing the factory stainless shims on the front pads, but it makes sense to use them, so I did. There was a copper looking material that looks to be an anti-chafing material between the shim and pad on the front brakes, I used a small amount of Permatex Anti-Seize Lubricant to do the job. The rear calipers have to come off and you need to use a brake caliper tool to "screw" the pistons back in before the new pads & caliper will fit over the rotor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enormous Posted November 15, 2009 Report Share Posted November 15, 2009 Is there a thread or intructions with photos on how to replace the rear pads? What type of caliper tool do I need for the rear? My search came up empty. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6-Speed Posted November 15, 2009 Report Share Posted November 15, 2009 Is there a thread or intructions with photos on how to replace the rear pads? What type of caliper tool do I need for the rear?My search came up empty. Thanks! The rear caliper piston needs to be turned in a clockwise direction to reset. The shop manual identifies an adapter, rear brake caliper piston adapter - 206-026 (T87P-2588-A) or equivalent tool. I have a brake caliper tool set that I purchased from Habor Freight Tools for $20; it comes with a number of various adapter plates. I'm hoping it comes with the correct adapter plate for the rear piston. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SGT/SC#0471 Posted November 15, 2009 Report Share Posted November 15, 2009 Some people honestly beleive if they pay an extra high price, the product must be superior and this couldn't be further from the truth. Yep. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LuckySnake Posted November 15, 2009 Report Share Posted November 15, 2009 Is there a thread or intructions with photos on how to replace the rear pads? What type of caliper tool do I need for the rear?My search came up empty. Thanks! The tool kit I used was from the local Auto-Zone and was straight forward, easy to use. Sometimes local auto-parts stores loan these out at no charge, just have to leave it on your credit card until you return it. The parts people behind the counter can usually show you how to use the tool. Take a flat screwdriver and lift the lever for the e-brake cable and then slide the clip aft to remove the cable, it's very easy. Remove the two Brake caliper guide pin bolts (No.1) and the caliper will lift right off the rotor, you don't want to drop the caliper and stress the brake hose. Take your time and install the new pads and anti-rattle clips just as you removed them. The book says torque the bolts to 24 lb-ft. Hook your e-brake cable back up, then do the oposite brake. You will have to pump the brakes several times before you drive it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mullens Posted November 15, 2009 Report Share Posted November 15, 2009 The tool kit I used was from the local Auto-Zone and was straight forward, easy to use. Sometimes local auto-parts stores loan these out at no charge, just have to leave it on your credit card until you return it. The parts people behind the counter can usually show you how to use the tool. Take a flat screwdriver and lift the lever for the e-brake cable and then slide the clip aft to remove the cable, it's very easy. Remove the two Brake caliper guide pin bolts (No.1) and the caliper will lift right off the rotor, you don't want to drop the caliper and stress the brake hose. Take your time and install the new pads and anti-rattle clips just as you removed them. The book says torque the bolts to 24 lb-ft. Hook your e-brake cable back up, then do the oposite brake. You will have to pump the brakes several times before you drive it. Good instructions. It's very simple, but it does take some elbow grease to get the rear calipers screwed back in. Also, I didn't have to mess with my e brake cable at all. Make sure you torque those bolts to spec. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6-Speed Posted November 16, 2009 Report Share Posted November 16, 2009 A couple of details from the shop manual: - Position the notch in the caliper piston up and down to align with the alignment pin on the brake pad. - There is a sequence for torquing down the caliper guide pin bolts after they are snug: RH caliper - tighten top bolt and then the bottom bolt LH caliper - tighten bottom bolt and then the top bolt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tispco Posted November 16, 2009 Report Share Posted November 16, 2009 The rear caliper piston needs to be turned in a clockwise direction to reset. The shop manual identifies an adapter, rear brake caliper piston adapter - 206-026 (T87P-2588-A) or equivalent tool. I have a brake caliper tool set that I purchased from Habor Freight Tools for $20; it comes with a number of various adapter plates. I'm hoping it comes with the correct adapter plate for the rear piston. The Harbor Freight kit comes with the correct adapter plate and works great. It makes the job MUCH easier. Also, I was able to change the rear pads without removing the e-brake cable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6-Speed Posted November 16, 2009 Report Share Posted November 16, 2009 The Harbor Freight kit comes with the correct adapter plate and works great. It makes the job MUCH easier. Also, I was able to change the rear pads without removing the e-brake cable. Thanks for confirming - I have used the HF caliper tool for brake jobs on my other vehicles, but not on the Mustang yet and I agree it works great and you can't beat the price. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enormous Posted November 16, 2009 Report Share Posted November 16, 2009 Thanks everybody for the rear pad tech tips. Off to Harbour Freight I go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enormous Posted November 16, 2009 Report Share Posted November 16, 2009 I ran into my SVT tech today while at the dealer. The guy lent me is Ford tool needed for the rear pad install. How cool is that! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcthorne Posted November 18, 2009 Report Share Posted November 18, 2009 This thread got my curiosity up. So I figured its only $54 to find out. I went down to the local AZ and got a set of the Cmax pads. Replaced the Mintex pads in less than a half hour. Bedded them in. I will admit while bedding them in I thought I had lost a good bit of braking performance and was going back to the Mintex pads. Now been driving the Cmax pads for several days and last night got the time to really push them. 100 to 0 four times in a row. Rotors were HOT. DAMN HOT like after a really good track session hot but the brakes never faded and the 4th stop was as smooth and quick as the first. If there is any difference in real world performace between these Cmax pads and the expensive Mintex ones, its so far outside my driving abiltiy as to be a waste of money. And this moning I looked at the front wheels (chrome by the way) still clean at about 400 miles since the pads went on. With the mintex pads they would have been completely black. The Cmax pads are quiet in traffic as well. In fairness, there may be a SLIGHT increase in pedal effort for the brakes but it is slight and modulation/control is excellent. Rotor wear is yet to be seen but pad wear is AZs problem as they are going to be providing pads for the life of this car. I just need to sell a few more sets for them. :-) I'll hold on to the Mintex pads for open track days but unless I find something I have not seen yet, will be doubtful if I would change them out. I don't really know the composition of the AZ ceramic Cmax pads, but they work very well and dust FAR less than anything I have seen on these cars. Perhaps someone has finally found a ceramic compound that works? I was also impressed with the quality of construction and packaging of these pads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rlhay2 Posted November 18, 2009 Report Share Posted November 18, 2009 I'll hold on to the Mintex pads for open track days but unless I find something I have not seen yet, will be doubtful if I would change them out. I don't really know the composition of the AZ ceramic Cmax pads, but they work very well and dust FAR less than anything I have seen on these cars. This has been my experience too! CMAX for street driving, and in my case Hawk HPS pad for the track. I did do one date with the CMax pads, would not recommend do that again.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcthorne Posted November 18, 2009 Report Share Posted November 18, 2009 This has been my experience too! CMAX for street driving, and in my case Hawk HPS pad for the track. I did do one date with the CMax pads, would not recommend do that again.... Please describe your experience with the Cmax pads during a track session. Did they eventually fade at high temp? or did they actually fail? Would like to know what to look out for. I envision these pads have substantial limits but for street use may be just fine. Would like to know how far I can expect to push them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
03 DSG Snake Posted November 18, 2009 Report Share Posted November 18, 2009 Has anyone tried the Hawk Ceramics? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6-Speed Posted November 19, 2009 Report Share Posted November 19, 2009 This thread got my curiosity up. So I figured its only $54 to find out. I went down to the local AZ and got a set of the Cmax pads. Replaced the Mintex pads in less than a half hour. Did you only install the Cmax pads on the front brakes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rlhay2 Posted November 19, 2009 Report Share Posted November 19, 2009 Please describe your experience with the Cmax pads during a track session. Did they eventually fade at high temp? They did not fail but they got HOT! And the brakes do fade when the system gets hot. And that mushy pedal does not invite confidence. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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