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My Clutch Went Out


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Well....It went out today. :banghead:

 

I suppose it was only a matter of time. :censored:

 

Here's the worn out parts for documentation.

 

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Warranty did not cover the repair. :banghead:

I had to have a senior Master Tech Come out to the house because she was stranded too. That cost a little extra.

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He did the job in about one our.....including the test Spin.

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The unit went back together with no problems.

 

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Tana Cleaned her up and did a test Spin....and she's very HAPPY !!! :happy feet:

She's as good as new again. :)

 

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The bill was $222.15 and it came with a 3 month Warranty. :huh:

 

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:rolleyes:

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I had a feeling it was the clutch because the spinning was not getting all the water out.

 

One of the engineers at the dealership told me how to do a Clutch Test on our rig.

The Test confirmed that the clutch was bad.

 

Here's the Grabber "Clutch Test"

 

1. Open the door.

 

2. Press a screw driver against the door latch safety switch to over ride it.

 

3. Turn on the Spin cycle.

 

4. Grab the side of the drum with your hand.

 

5. If you are able to keep the drum from spinning......the clutch is shot.

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I had a feeling it was the clutch because the spinning was not getting all the water out.

 

One of the engineers at the dealership told me how to do a Clutch Test on our rig.

The Test confirmed that the clutch was bad.

 

Here's the Grabber "Clutch Test"

 

1. Open the door.

 

2. Press a screw driver against the door latch safety switch to over ride it.

 

3. Turn on the Spin cycle.

 

4. Grab the side of the drum with your hand.

 

5. If you are able to keep the drum from spinning......the clutch is shot.

 

Where's the TSB?

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I had a feeling it was the clutch because the spinning was not getting all the water out.

 

One of the engineers at the dealership told me how to do a Clutch Test on our rig.

The Test confirmed that the clutch was bad.

 

Here's the Grabber "Clutch Test"

 

1. Open the door.

 

2. Press a screw driver against the door latch safety switch to over ride it.

 

3. Turn on the Spin cycle.

 

4. Grab the side of the drum with your hand.

 

5. If you are able to keep the drum from spinning......the clutch is shot.

 

Did you make sure they replaced it with a "RACING CLUTCH"?????????????

 

Or at least a "HIGH PERFORMANCE CLUTCH"??????????? :hysterical:

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I had a feeling it was the clutch because the spinning was not getting all the water out.

 

One of the engineers at the dealership told me how to do a Clutch Test on our rig.

The Test confirmed that the clutch was bad.

 

Here's the Grabber "Clutch Test"

 

1. Open the door.

 

2. Press a screw driver against the door latch safety switch to over ride it.

 

3. Turn on the Spin cycle.

 

4. Grab the side of the drum with your hand.

 

5. If you are able to keep the drum from spinning......the clutch is shot.

 

6. If your hand rips off......the clutch is good (call 911 right away) :hysterical:

 

 

Isn't that clutch from a '68 Fiat 850? :hysterical:

 

Strange to see a clutch like that in a modern washer :headscratch: ...most washers now use variable-speed u-processor controlled variable-speed electric motors instead of a clutch.

 

Rob, when that washer is ready for replacement, consider a front-loader ...much more energy efficient (less electricity and *much* less hot water), cleans better (the falling action of the clothes into the water loosens dirt better than a reciprocating agitator) and no twisted arms/legs on shirts and jeans, etc. Look for one with 1,000/1,100 rpm (or more) spin cycle (removes substantially more H20 than a 850-900 rpm spin which greatly reduces drying energy and time, witht he side-benefit that the dryer won't lag the washer's cycle-time on multiple loads. Also the very lateral nature of the front-loader gets a pulsed assist (from gravity) to spin more water out at the same rpm ...many also use load-sensing to adjust/reballance for a more-effective spin. If you have metered city water, you'll also pay less in both water and sewer taxes with a front loader and they're gentler on septics too. Front-loaders typically pay-back the small cost difference in 1-3 years depending on model and usage and have excellent life expectancies.

:superhero:

(from week-4 of my Build/buy a Better Home and Save Money Too course).

 

Ok, I'll leave now ...as you were ...move along, Johnny ...nothing to see here... ;)

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Dan,

 

That Washer was a house gift from my dad when we moved into our home in Sept 2002. So that Sears Kenmoore is 6 years old. Tana does want a new side loader and that will be our next one. Maybe in a couple years we will give this one to our kid's if they are in need and we will pick up a new one....but now I need to get some miles on this new rebuilt one.

 

I found out that this washer is made by Whirlpool for Sears Kenmoore. It's not a bad unit the guy told us.

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This can't be coincidence! We had ours replaced last month. It's a 7 year old Kenmore.....................

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I smell a RECALL!!!!!!!!!!!!! :slapfight::slapfight:

 

 

 

Or at least a Class Action Lawsuit!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1 :finger::angry22::rant2:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

:poke:

 

:hysterical::hysterical3::hysterical:

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This can't be coincidence! We had ours replaced last month. It's a 7 year old Kenmore.....................

 

 

I smell a RECALL!!!!!!!!!!!!! :slapfight::slapfight:

 

 

 

Or at least a Class Action Lawsuit!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1 :finger::angry22::rant2:

 

 

 

:poke:

 

Yeah, I think it's called planned lifecycle. :hysterical: Sears seems to spec/label serviceable products that get high functional ratings in Consumer Reports but then they often do have latent defects such that they mysteriously require replacement parts at some predictable/regular interval such that you wish they would just fall apart so you can justify getting rid of them. ;)

 

It's gotten to the point where I just won't buy from Sears for that reason unless I know who makes the product and its model -specific cross-ref so I can find out if it's really good or not (often you find most every part is the same except for a few Sears-unique parts). Even then I hesitate since a Whirlpool or Frigidaire will just send you a replacement part and/or pay to have a local/approved company install it too, whereas often you have to bring your Sears product to an authorized Sears repair facility in another city (not the store) to get it done for free under warranty ...or they won't pay the labor portion or some such loophole. I've just been burned too many times with Sears and Craftsman products to ever buy from them again. Maybe they'll go bankrupt ...again! :hysterical:

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Dan,

 

That Washer was a house gift from my dad when we moved into our home in Sept 2002. So that Sears Kenmoore is 6 years old. Tana does want a new side loader and that will be our next one. Maybe in a couple years we will give this one to our kid's if they are in need and we will pick up a new one....but now I need to get some miles on this new rebuilt one.

 

I found out that this washer is made by Whirlpool for Sears Kenmoore. It's not a bad unit the guy told us.

 

Hope it holds up for you, Rob ...often the replacement part is what should have been put in to begin with or it will go again in similar time.

 

At least there's no flywheel warpage! ;)

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We just bought a new washing machine too. Our 13 yr old Bosch gave way. We bought a new Bosch WAE 32360.

 

Man, that thing is quiet. Even at 1600 RPM max and that saves you drying time in the dryer we noticed. Every time about 20 minutes. We look forward to a cheaper electric bill.

 

Next mod are rookie stripes.

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I have bad news to report. :censored:

 

Tana was getting caught up on the wash last night....and :banghead:

 

The washer has failed. :banghead:

 

The clutch seems to not engage the spin cycle again and the cloths just stay soggy wet.

 

You can hear something spinning inside.....but the drum is not turning. :rant2:

 

$222.15 not well spent. :spend:

 

I should of taken it to the dump and bought a new one.

 

Grabber trying to save a buck-----------> :finger:

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